Bull Bar Cowboy

Yes the overall length will be fine. My boat trailer is 6.8m & we tow that with the the Cherokee. Lately the old bill have been very keen on pointing out to folk that a rear fog light is required if the trailer is 1.3m or more wide...................... gives them something to I suppose, other than accepting big bribes from the national media

As you rightly say ............. you will only get one crack at this in a day, or maybe two if you do one in the early morning and have another go in the evening. TBH ..... ASE & the warmup tables are by far the hardest part of the tuning process.

I think you will find that the 3 strokes of the loud pedal was programmed out a long, long, time ago. If you do a search on the MS forum I think there was a whole thread about it. I think it was gone even before MS extra and MS -msns It is the ASE (after Start Enrichment) that settles the engine once it has fired and started. Once the ecu has detected that the engine has fired & started, ASE then kicks in for a predetermined time (default 11secs) to stabilise the engine before the ECU takes it to the warm ‘Warm up’ tables. If its starting on the button and stalling after a couple of seconds then you probably need to richen up ASE by quite a lot in its early stages. If its not starting on the button then give it a longer priming pulse and slightly longer cranking pulses. It’s important to get each stage correct in the right order for it to pan out OK ………. If not you will find yourself putting in settings to correct other settings and that is not good for ending up with a smooth running setup.

I was trying to remember .......................... Did you get this engine from Zumerzet ?

If it’s a 3.5 then it is most likely one of the head gaskets or it could be plumbed incorrectly ………… my money is on a head gasket as there is a fair chance that it is still running with the ‘tin’ gaskets. With the engine cool have a sniff in the expansion tank ……………. Normally if the head gasket is gone it smells of exhaust fumes instead of the normal stale smell of coolant. If you can smell exhaust gas in there then invest in a compression tester and you can then determine which head gasket bank is leaking , however, it is just as easy to do both ……… about a days work.

What capacity engine .... 3.5, 3.9, 4.0, or 4.6 ?

Auto reverse is more than just the hitch. Normally you have auto reverse sliding brake shoes, and a hand brake assembly that has an energy store so that it works efficiently when on an up hill slope.

Idle vacuum and cruise vacuum is more a function of engine design and to a certain extent engine tune. However, I would like to see your cruise kPa similar to the idle kPa ………… so 45 – 60 (55 – 60 probably ideal) is the sort of numbers to be looking at. At cruise the engine will be tickling along at minimum effort, that is why you can afford to lean the mixture and increase spark. The idea of throwing in some more spark advance, is to increase the efficiency with a low throttle opening ……… so effectively starting the combustion process at the right point (so maximum cylinder pressure occurs at exactly or very fractionally after TDC) is vitally important to the fuel economy ……….. more bang per buck so to speak……….. However, don’t expect large gains from what could be a very long winded and frustrating tuning process …………….. 4.6L powering 2T+ with the aerodynamics of a brick out house is never going to produce an economic result !

Best to check your TDC with a dial gauge or manometer to ensure it is correct ……… but even with all the hype, I have never found one to be out on a RV8. I am led to believe it is the very early 3.5 engines that could be amiss in this area. Although running the engine a fair bit lean will increase the MPG (on mine I got about another 2-3 MPG overall on a run), it will also increase the engine temp and localised hot spot temperatures due to the lean mixture leaving hot unused oxygen as a result of the combustion process. These hot oxygen atoms will chemically mix (adhere to) with the Aluminium atoms to create further heat………… see here as an example http://www.iap.tuwie...lery/adsorption. I would go for a max lean of 16.5:1 (only in the cruise area) and then increase the timing by 5 – 8 degrees (maybe 10 at a push). You might need to play with the timing in surrounding cells so as not to cause pre-ignition when you hit the gas.

If your house electrics system uses MCB’s then you will need a 63A class C MCB........... I run a single phase 300A synergic. I have also fed the workshop with a single feed from the distribution box of 10mm twin & earth. Also my nearest neighbour (100 yards away) complains about the lights flickering when I am welding. I pointed them in the direction of the electricity company for a solution and heard no more about it.

I would ask exactly where you are buying your S/S wire from ? ................... I recently paid £60 for 5Kg of S/S 316(SS316LSI) @ BOC ! Welcome to the synergic world, where welding becomes a passion rather than a chore, however, your original question is probably answered by the fact that with most Synergic programs you only have the ability to vary the wire speed by +/- 25% (some machines are less) so I would guess that getting the wire speed right would be tricky .............. When welding 316 I have found that the difference between Argosheild lite and pure Argon is minimal.

You may need to get an inline extension lead ............... try here ...... http://www.flycom.co.uk/prices.htm

Reload the modified S19 firmware file using the downloader to be absolutely sure ………….. I don’t have one handy but Nige does………………….

I have replied to your pm on innovate ……………

Yes, that is in the software. You can set fuel cutoff at the RPM peak you want …………... give me a call next week sometime.

On that engine 0.97% is a good PASS. The limits are 3.5%CO and 1200ppm HC. TBH at 0.97% CO I would say that your engine is running lean at idle. Getting the engine above normal operating teperature does nothing to the CO & HC levels. The tester should have noticed it was non cat and followed the attached procedure. He also should have asked for the approximate engine age to detrermine if it required a CAT by law. I think a call to VOSA is required. non_cat.pdf

And for those that want to know why we know that …………….. If the ‘bang’ is late (retarded timing) then the exhaust valve has begun to open and some of the flame front goes out the exhaust port ……….. this makes the exhaust manifolds a tad warm ………..its a bit like getting in there with a petrol fuelled blow torch. In Nige’s case he has cast manifolds which take even more heat to warm up to red hot ………. normally this would mean the engine is hugely retarded, but he has a high overlap cam and this will make matters a lot worse. 99% of the time there will be no permanent damage ………….

The MS sends the timing info to the EDIS using a SAW (Spark Angle Word) pulse. The length of the pulse derives the timing and can be in the range of 57.5 BTDC to 10 ATDC. TBH running your engine at 10ADTC would give rise to hot manifolds, but I feel it would need to be more retarded than 10 degrees. I guess if it was lean & retarded then that would have the same result.............. If SAW is disconnected then the timing will default to 10BTDC ……. It should run quite happily on that, albeit a bit sluggish. Here is the Blurb from the EDIS technical information, Spark Angle Word Calculation The algebraic formula for calculating the SAW pulsewidth is: SAW Pulsewidth (usec) = 1536 - (25.6 x (desired spark advance in degrees)) Range: 64 - 1792us (57.5° BTDC to 10° ATDC) Resolution: 4us (5/32nd of a degree) Example: You want 29 degrees of advance. PW = 1536 - (25.6 * 29) PW = 1536 - (742.4) PW = 793.6 You would send a pulse that is 793.6 microseconds long to the EDIS module. The EDIS module will do all the work of timing the spark, you just send the advance pulse. The EDIS has an advance range of 57.4 degrees BTDC to 10 degrees ATDC. These correspond to the SAW widths of 64 and 1792 microseconds respectively.

Unresponsive and red hot manifolds are a classic case of retarded timing ………. Usually many degrees ATDC Although MLV shows that the correct timing signal is being sent to the EDIS module, you don’t actually know that EDIS is doing its stuff. Get the timing light out next time it happens. Alternatively it could be a very, very lean mixture, but this is more unlikely ……….as cold air will call for a richer AFR from the ECU......... Check for white plugs.

We can only live in hope ................

Yes, a molyslip (MoS2) type product ............ are you sure the one shot CV grease (which is high in Molybdenum disulfide) hasn’t migrated from the joints into the diff ?

A 3.9EFI cam is a good choice in a 3.5 ........... however, I would keep the 285, fit a Cloyes true roller chain set and use the retard settings on the Cloyes to retard the CAM timing by 4 degrees. This has the effect of moving the power band into the lower and mid rev ranges. This will also even out the lumpy idle that you get with a medium lift, medium overlap cam. I would also be using Rhoads bleed down lifters………………..

Yes, you can do it with a NB but it takes longer because is not so accurate ………. a NB can only tell you its rich but not exactly how rich ………. similarly a NB can tell you its lean, but not exactly how lean. Pete (Bowie 69) has borrowed my WB ………… you can always use that one ……. Sort it out amongst yourselves ………..I am in no rush to get it back …….. it wont work on a 70hp outboard

Tuning the acceleration enrichment is best done with a WB O2 sensor………. Understanding the settings is easy ………… but its better to understand what the end result should be. Go along at a steady speed / throttle setting and poke the go pedal …………. Observe the log for the lambda and it should always be slightly rich on the acceleration and revert back to stoich ………. It should never go lean. Normally when the settings are wrong, as the go pedal is poked the lambda leans off badly and then reverts to slightly rich ……… in other words you need to inject more fuel in relation to the speed at which the pedal is poked. Its hard to go very wrong the other way with the lambda going soot rich and then reverting back to slightly rich ………… when this happens you can get false readings due to the cooling effect of the ‘rich’ gases on the sensor. Hope this helps............

PM bogmonster on here ........... he is based in Stanley