Bull Bar Cowboy

Heres the 'zoomable' coverage map Chris ............ it's poor only when you get very rural, but that applies to FM as well. http://www.ukdigitalradio.com/images/coverage-map.gif

Chris, Once you have found a spare channel ……… the Highway has an intelligent way of doing this ! ……… then set that memory position to local & that will stop 99% of the issues. Most decent radios will allow certain settings relative to memory positions.

There is a lot of incorrect hype and misunderstanding with regard to DAB ………….as it part of my job perhaps I can fill in the gaps. 1. Clarity of reception will always stand head an shoulders above conventional wide band FM systems. Once a digital (DAB) signal starts to get wek the BER (Bit Error Rate) increases and the receiver processor terminates the received signal. Sometimes this may be preceded by just a few milliseconds (often a lot less) of burble as the signal is terminated (with many DAB receivers the burble can be programmed i.e ‘cut/fade on burble enable’). With WBFM (standard broadcast FM) the signal will fade until firstly distortion sets in and the signal falls below the receiver noise threshold and just leaves you listening to ‘white’ noise. You can liken all the above to the difference between the current digital GSM and the older analogue ETACS systems of mobile phones. 2. DAB is the accepted standard in the UK (ETS 300 -401 modes 1-4 & DAB+) and uses the old Band II tv frequencies of 174 -240 Mhz. This allows reasonably good coverage from both a static and mobile perspective with quite good in building penetration. However, on mainland Europe the global picture is slightly different. Currently the DAB standard is being used (used as opposed to accepted) but is transmitted on L Band 1452 -1490 Mhz, therefore the coverage is relatively poor. Whilst in France recently I noticed that rural coverage was pretty much non existent and good coverage could only be found in large urban conurbations. However, whilst in Northern Spain last week I found the coverage to be very good in most areas of Asturias & Galicia with a good choice of stations. 3. In the UK a huge amount of money has been poured into DAB and I believe the standard will stay with us for a decade or two. In mainland eurpoe the stanrd is gathering pace but the final outcome is still fluid. With regard to ICE, I would go for something like a Pure Highway that is a standalone windscreen mounted device which transmits back to your in car radio on a spare VHF channel………. The highway unfortunately only covers band III and therefore will not work in mainland Europe, however, it is the best of the bunch for UK use.

As if by magic............. I think this was the latest........

TBH I have always felt that vastly better results are obtained when using a WB Lambda. For setting up the NB is really a guesstimate and can lead to all manner of other issues being glossed over as a result of trying to get the mixture to satisfy the NB switching or in some cases trying to get the NB switching to satisfy the mixture.…………… with the WB, what you see is exactly what you get, and this can also be a great help in finding those illusive injection faults. Out of interest I used the following AFR table to good effect and then manually altered the idle cells in the VE table to my liking (mostly rich). Pete ………. Keep as long as you like, there is really no hurry ………..

Dont use chains for recovery !......... This was taken from one of my other internet haunts ............normally quite a responsible place............ And the text reads .............. "Chains aren't really my friend right now. Got the Cummins stuck while waiting for the traffic to clear out from graduation blvd Thursday night. 4 trucks, many hours and an insurance deductible later we were all finally home. If your using chains for recovery, BE CAREFUL. Chain snapped and wrapped around the back of the truck and came through the windshield and had a face to face with a chain and hook. Gotta clean the brown stain out of the seat now too. Damaged the tailgate, roof, sunroof is gone and windshield"

Been there and done that on a rolling road ............ In the UK use 95RON ........... the difference is that you can give it a bit more advance with 97RON but the difference in performance is negligible............. both runs we set the timing to MBT (Max Best Torque = Min Best Timing) However, when in mainland Europe, always use 97 RON as they don’t seem to have the additives we do and you may (will) find that you will get bad spark knock (pinging or pinking ..... call it what you like).

Assuming manual & Std Diffs In 5th (0.77:1) and 265/75 tyres (32 inch) works out like so, 1.22 TB = 28.58MPH per 1000rpm which equates to 2449 rpm @70mph 1.410 TB = 24.31MPH per 1000rpm which equates to 2831 rpm @ 70mph (std Def)

The part is not common to both engines............. The part number for the Defender (11L Engine) is ETC7939 The part number for the disco (12L Engine) is ETC7469 As the part numbers are different, I would guess that there is a slight length difference...........

Look at it this way .......... its a bit like polishing a turd .......... it might look shiny but its still a turd.

I always thought you bought EPsand from builders merchants, usually in quantities of a Ton ...........

The Chassis is structural so a corrosion hole anywhere in it is a fail. A good cleanup, a bit of 3mm plate, and 5 mins with the hot glue gun (MIG) will have it fixed.

FFS Steve ......... you are getting as bad as Nige ..... it must be rubbing off (ooooer)......... I would expect it to stop better if you renewed the whole of the front braking system ! But I stand by the above ......... even with a 4.6 in a 90 you will be hard pushed to find the limit of the brakes. Your tyre compound and tread pattern plays a greater part ! The only time you might get the brakes hot enough in a LR is coming down a steep mountain road with a auto and having a fully loaded 3.5T trailer. Ian

You would never get the discs / pads hot enough on a LR for gas pockets to form ...........also braking performance is more dependant upon the pad material than the construction of the disc …………. When you can get the discs glowing red in daylight and clouds of smoke from the pads it is then time to think about drilled grooved discs and water mist cooling.

Although not quite technically right, it is sound advice as too much gas can cause the weld to cool which gives much less penetration. In the workshop I run 10L ………..outside it depends on the wind, anything from 10L – 15L ………….if I need more than 15L then its time to erect a wind break or call it a day !

Lots of moaning about the price ………….. at that price work out @ 40p each ……… that is a tad on the high side ……….. trade they are around 29p each, but yellow in colour. Yeeeeeeeeeeeesssssssssssss …………. Nige is a knobhead ………

Unfortunate Ross there is quite a difference......... The typical RR ZF4HP22 auto box ratios are, 1st 2.48 2nd 1.48 3rd 1.00 4th 0.73 Where as the typical R380 manual box ratios are; 1st 3.60 2nd 2.11 3rd 1.40 4th 1.00 5th 0.77 So 1st in an auto is like 2nd (plus a bit) in a manual ............... With a diesel it is not so bad…………… but with a petrol you really know the difference

On the rear of the N/S rocker cover is a small mushroom cap that is the air inlet to the engine. So effectively you have a breather one side (positive crankcase pressure outlet) and an air inlet the other. Yes, The breather from the flame trap goes to the air inlet with a tee piece that goes to the plenum. The Tee piece (ERR4765) is a bit special as it is built with a restrictor (very tiny hole) on the plenum side. I wouldn’t worry too much about the rolling issue as all the top end will fill with oil if that happens……. Any oil in the breather pipes will soon disperse back into the engine (the flame trap is only a wire mesh oil separator). The correct breathing of the RV8 is important as the engine is not very tolerant of high crankcase pressures.

Dan, Often when driving at speed the air flow is enough to cool the rad sufficiently so that natural convection takes over and the coolant flows very slowly around the system with the hottest coolant always appearing at the top of the rad............. however, local hot spots occur which do all the damage. I guess you were just lucky............

Mike, Yes, the axle number is stamped on top of the axle tube next to the diff (IIRC the short side) .......... often they are very difficult to read. I dont know that it can be related to a chassis number, but I am fairly sure that the axle number will identify the build date !

With the Disco & Defender the change to 24 spline happened in the 94MY ........... so that wopuld be very late 93 and early 94 models .......... I assume that same is true of RR. Yes, its fine to helicoil the caliper mounting holes .............

There are quite a few of the 28G engines around now.......... It has always been rumoured, but never actually confirmed with documentary evidence, that the 28G engines were the last to be supplied to the MOD in the 3.5L capacity. These were in late model 127 ambulances.

I will try to explain........ A whole raft of issues ............ NB O2 sensors are OK when the mixture is 'sort of' OK .......... if its miles out either lean or rich then they often get upset and tell lies.................also too much authority can cause it to lead the ecu astray.......... Other issues include .......... burning too much oil will make them read permanently lean ............. too much fuel on acceleration enrichment can be enough to cool the element into a false reading (zero or there abouts).......... With a WB you can see the actual AFR and tune based on an AFR table......... the WB knows exactly what the AFR is ........... its very quick to do ............. simples ......... a NB is only giving an indication of lean or rich, but it doesn’t know just how much lean or how much rich ......... you then need trial and error to bring it into its correct switching bandwidth ....... trial and error takes time and understanding ....... not so simples......... The offer is still there ............... I can drop it off at Tim's place............you wont break it and its not important if you do............

Nothing too bad there apart from the O2 dropping to zero when you stand on the gas ............. however, that may not be a wiring issue. You really need a wide band to see whats going on ........... my LC1 is sat here doing nothing if you want to borrow it.

A bit more than double ................. A rear brake disk for a defender is £11 ............ for a cherokee it is £85 A thermostat for a defender is £4 .................. for a cherokee it is £79 (same wax stat just built into a housing) Dont know how much a timing belt kit is for a 300tdi ............. the cherokee 2.8 kit is £155 (belt + 2 idlers). LR A frame ball joint £23 ............. cherokee A frame ball joint £76 However, I find Jeep parts last longer then LR parts ......... our cherokee is now on 160K and we have had it from new ......... uber reliable