gadget

The wiper park switch failed on my 110 which meant that the wipers parked wherever they were when you switched them off. The switch is cheap and pretty much every supplier carries it. Part# 520160 First remove the speaker and panel Then prise off the Landrover badge and remove the grab handle You'll be able to see the wiper motor and switch You could probably replace the switch now, but I felt that the access was too restricted for me so I removed the left three screws from the top of the dash and from from under the edge in the middle to allow it to be lifted a little. Then I removed 5 screws from the dash in front of the motor. This allowed the dash to be pulled forward. Pull the grey plug from the switch. Then insert your favourite prying tool under the switch body and lift upwards. The switch will come free from the motor and you can remove the three spade connected wires. The switch has a metal clip on the rear of it that secures it to the motor body. You hold the switch firmly against the motor body and push down until it clicks. Everything goes back together in reverse order. Stephen

All done I took some pictures whilst i did it and if they look OK i'll throw together a how to for it.

I'll wade over to the 110 and see how it goes. Thanks chaps.

On list of jobs to do on my 110 is the wiper motor park switch. I haven't found a how to online and I don't want to remove more dash than I need to. Any pointers?

Thanks guys.

I thought pictures might be useful. Nearside is the one that looks like something is seeping out from around the hub cap, and oil drips slowly from it when the cap is removed. Offside looks fine from the outside and doesn't drip with the cap removed.

Yes, I am referring to small plastic cap. I'm wondering if it's something I should attend to now whilst i've already got the calipers out of the way. As an ex utilities 110 it's had decent maintenance until it's last owner, who serviced as little as he could get away with for an MOT.

I've been out today stripping the rear calipers on my 110, and in between swearing and hammering i noticed that the area around a hub cap is moist. I levered the hub cap off and there's a small oil drip from under the hub cap. Do I simply need a new hub cap or is this something more sinister?

Brilliant. Thanks for that. I'll get a stack ordered.

Do you have the part# for the inserts handy?

That's great news. Thanks

Looking for the part number for the coil that fits over the ignition and hooks up the the 10AS alarm in a defender. Thanks in advance.

I'm planning on swapping out my R380 shortly and would like to know how much of the floor needs removing to access stuff and support the gearbox on an engine crane?

Another vote for keeping the D2. I've had my D2 from new and sure it's got a couple of niggles, but I know exactly how it's been treated and how it's been cared for. I'm not sure i'd want a used D3/4. I've considered a new one a few times, but there's just something about them that makes me walk away from them at the stealership.

Crankshaft pulley damper ageing? Next time you take the serpentine belt off, check the crankshaft pulley damper for play.

Thanks.

I'm looking to fit a 200tdi prop to my td5 discovery and have read that there's a 4 bolt flange with the spacer built-in but can't find a definitive part number for it. STC3722 is the flange that requires the 539745 spacer. Is STC4858 the part number for the flange with the built-in spacer ??? Thanks in advance.

When I ordered my 5 seater I added ACE as an option. Definitely available with coils on the rear.

I've been under the Discovery again today, hoping that something would be showing itself. No There's no play in either diff pinion/flange. Transfer box outputs are fine. Props and UJs are still fine. No obvious leaks or weeps from anywhere. Except for the bloody crankcase cover seal *mutter*

Warm the flange with a blow lamp and then use the slide hammer. It'll pop out for you.

When I had the props off I checked the diff flanges for play. There's no obvious play and no weeping from the seals. Would bearing play be obvious?

I've changed both props, donut, bush + centring pin, both transfer box output bearings, wheels and tyres. I still can't find the cause of the vibration. My transfer box doesn't have CDL and the front output flange appears to have more play in it than the transfer box on my Defender. I'm out of ideas at the moment.

Tsk. Wrong forum. Mods can you move to the Defender forum please?

My 110 came with a Ramsey RPH 8000 winch, PTO etc. It's way more than i'm ever likely to need, so i'm pondering taking the winch and plumbing off and replacing it with a 12v winch. If I do remove the Ramsey what's going to be the best/quickest way to sell it. All in one or as components?

It's an ex-utilities 110 HD. There's no tacho head in the cab, and no obvious place where one might have been fitted previously. I'll trace the wiring tomorrow and see if it leads to any other hidden pieces. There's another box beside the battery that has bhwgroup on it. Their website seems to suggest they deal with winches, but as the winch on this is PTO driven I'm not sure how this box will have any effect. An electrical voyage of discovery...