gadget

I'm hoping to get it over the pit again shortly and see if I can spot anything and try to identify the oil. It's quite typical though. I go and book the ferry crossings for a bit of an overland jolly later in the year and the bloody thing decides to leak.

I've been under the TD5 today replacing the the axle and transfer box oils. Whilst under I noticed that the rear of the R380 casing was damp and had a droplet of oil hanging from it. I couldn't see anything obvious, and light was fading and it was getting chillier so i left it for now. Any pointers as to where to be looking for the leak?

I've had reasonable success with an SGC-231 mounted on the bulkhead feeding a 16ft fibreglass antenna mounted on the bumper fed via coax. The antenna was made from a disused Antron A99 with the loading section removed. I've not played radio for a while...

Scary heavy or just sweary heavy?

To strip my existing axle... After removing the calipers, can i unbolt the swivel housings from the axle casing and pull the hub, swivel and half shaft out in one? Then remove the diff?

I'll check to see if i still have any of the original pictures. May be able to determine the wiring from them.

How are you taking the feed from the buttons and switches down the column without the coupler?

I quite like that. Did you use the rotary coupler off the D3 too?

I have a nasty suspicion that the original diff has blown and punched a hole in the pan and casing at an earlier point, and it's been "repaired" and a replacement diff fitted. I'll only know how bad the casing is once it's apart.

After more reading it appears that the panhard rod changed between 2002/2003. 2002 or younger and it would fit. Looks like i'll either have to get mine repaired or find a replacement axle casing.

I took the link from the right of the black connector under bulb connectors. Didn't realise that is was for the terminals contained in the connector *doh*

Thanks for the info. For anyone else who wants the link http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalsnonins/noninsblades.php#flag

Radius arm brackets are the same size Panhard bracket is much smaller

One of my headlamps was looking a little dimmer than the other, so I took the headlamp out to see if it was anything obvious. Obvious it was. The Earth spade in the main bulb connector has rusted and the rust appears to have caused enough resistance to cook the plastic surround What's the best replacement method? Replacement connector with pig tails or just the bare connector? Anyone have a recommendation for a replacement as i'd rather not end up buying one made of cheese that i'll need to replace again in a short while.

Thanks for the info on the body mounts, and good call on the hand brake. I'd not considered that. I've added fuel pipes from the tank to the filler to my list also. I wouldn't worry too much about the exhaust. It's a diesel so the front pipe is practically worthless to a scrappy as it's only a ceramic honeycomb, no precious metals in there.

I'm planning on whipping the body off the chassis and then stripping the chassis, ready for the scrap bloke. Will this be as simple as cut body mounts. Undo steering coupler. Cut loom and engine bay pipes. Then lift off the body? Anyone know how many body mounts there are on the Discovery 1?

I read some time ago that you could obtain the bearings themselves, but removing the originals was nigh on impossible. You can buy cheap hubs with cheap bearings, or OE hubs with Timken bearings.

This is exactly what i'm trying to avoid.

I'll be collecting a 300tdi discovery shortly to take some spares that I need. I'll be keeping the transfer box and axles if they're in decent condition, and perhaps the front seats if i can see a way of fitting them in my defender... The engine has already been used by its current owner. I expect that the gearbox, lights, perhaps a few body panels are worth keeping and selling/trading. I don't want to be hanging on to bits of Discovery for any great length of time. What parts am I best disposing of? e.g. Chassis don't seem to sell very quickly, so that will be on its way to the scrap man sharpish.

Just bought a few of these. Use BOUNCE102 to get a further 10% off

It's done now Do you have any links to the push fit joiners? Knowing what I know now I think I could replace the high pressure pipe easily enough without dropping the tank. I suspect with a bit of fiddling about I could do the others, but it was easy with the tank off. For anyone else who needs the single high pressure pipe it's YNI500030K

It weighs very little and is easily manipulated Does anyone have a copy of the recall info that they can email to me, or just the diagram showing how the tank harness is rerouted?

I had to remove the side trim to get the carpet up. The carpet extends a good 5 inches under the trim and wouldn't pull out. Tow bar bolts were an absolute mo-fo to get off, but i'm about ready to remove the filler pipes and then try to unbolt the tank Anyone know what the weight of an empty TD5 tank is?

I'm reasonably sure my problem was caused by the less than sympathetic driving of its previous owner who used it to tow every day.

Mine isn't chipped, everything is standard.