kiwi_110

Another vote for MIG. I scratched around with a stick-machine for years until I saw the light and coughed up for a MAG-Mate from BOC. Much more versatile, you can do exhaust pipe and steel panel work. Easier to use than a stick-machine too. Ray.

Yeah, that's sort of what the VDO has, I believe the TD5 speedo is a badge engineered VDO unit.

Some programmable speedos can be fudged to speed up the process, you set them for a very low Pulse Per Mile (or Kilometre) rate, say 500 which might only be 10 pulses per second, then hit it with a much higher frequency, say 5,000/sec from your source the miles will clock up pretty quick. I dunno what happens to the needle mechanism though! Ray.

Good job. But I need to run up 315,000 (!) k's on my new VDO speedo, so it matches my Road User Charges distance (don't ask...). Even at 200 kph that'll take 65 days! A local speedo shop will do it for $160. That's about 80 of your real, actual, genuine, British pounds. There are some points on the cct that give direct access to the EEPROM. Ray.

What colour is the smoke? Blue = burnt oil = rings, pistons, valve guides etc, an additive "might" reduce this, but a rebuild is inevitable. Black = unburnt diesel = dirty injectors, pump tweaked too high, blocked air filter. Ray.

Much excitement today, the courier delivered a food parcel from my current fave LR parts supplier in the UK. Drive train bits for The Kids freebie, some ignition and dizzy bits for The Missus Disco, and my speed transducer for the VDO speedo conversion in the 110. On opening the dreaded Blue Box containing the latter, I disco-vered this... I didn't touch it, honest, it just fell apart... Little wonder, it's easy enough to see the traces of BEEF DRIPPING they glued it together with!!! At least I know what's in it now, innit. It's just a circular 8-pole magnet and a reed switch across the terminals. If anyone wanted to know about polarity etc, there's none. The rotating magnet makes and breaks the reed switch contact, interrupting the 12V signal 8 times per revolution of the shaft. That's it. job done. Ray.

But you've got plenty of beef dripping, yeah? Just imagine the delightful scent wafting up from under the seats as you admire your 450 rpm reduction...

If the tensioner is running "out of true", due to the bolt being loose, then it could account for the chafing of the belt. PS pumps can tend to growl at low revs under steering load, more so when the fluid level is a tad low, and a loose belt will influence that too as the pump cannot generate enough pressure due to the belt slipping. Ray.

Microcat says "From (V)XA159807 to (V)1A607224 use SLC100210" and "From (V)1A607225 on use SLC000010PMA" Hope that helps! Ray

If your rebuild included engine work, then you could have a timing issue, either cam or injector pump. If you did not do the engine, then it's fuel or air (less likely) starvation. With the key in the "on" position, can you hear the lift pump humming in the tank under your seat? Start there and work your way forward checking the diesel line, filter/s, into the injector pump. Loosen the banjo at the pump with the key on is there fuel coming out? Loosen the lines at the injectors and crank the engine, there should be leakage at each injector. If it gets fuel, it will run. Ray.

The blurb on the telemetrix speedo says it can be used with existing sensors. I think on the Smiths you set dip-switches as per this table Smiths for pulses per mile. Not sure about later model defender fuel senders. Older ones like mine are empty = 170 ohms, full = 0 ohms. There are no resistance figures quoted for the Smiths gauges... Ray.

Take a look at page 372 of the link Western gave you. If grub-screw (9) has loosened in Selector Finger (10), this assembly will be slipping when cross-shaft (11) rotates, thus you'll get no movement applied to hi-lo selector shaft (7). I can't image this coming loose though, I've rebuilt three LT-230's and NEVER been able to get this grubscrew undone! Ray.

I have a full house of VDO Vision gauges for the 110, that I got from egauges.com. Volts, Air PSI (Compressor tank), Boost, RPM, Fuel, Temp, Oil Press. The first 4 are in a Raptor console, the others in the normal places. I have the VDO Vision 0-200 kph programmable speedo coming this week and will drive it with a disco induction drive, YBE100540. The small gauges ranged from US$25 to US$70 (with senders), the speedo was US$295. Now is a good time to buy from the US for Kiwi's, strongest we've been against the Greenback for ages. Ray.

When I drop mine, I do it through the hatch in between the seats with an engine lifting boom poked through the drivers door. I'll post a pic here soon of a mainshaft cross-drilling, just nipping downstairs to get one. Here you go, so you drill 4 x 10mm (or thereabouts) holes through to the approximate mid-point of the splines, at 90 degrees to one-another. This allows oil to be flung into the spline area by the hi-ratio gear, which is in-line with this area of the mainshaft. the drilling is hard to start and then easy, then hard as it approaches the splines, because the surfaces are hardened. Take it slow, use a bit of cutting fluid, or beef dripping on the masonry bit. You guys all have dripping smeared on your bread yeah?

On your 1.222 T/case, check that it's mainshaft is cross-drilled before you fit it. This will extend the life of the splines on your g/box output shaft. Worth doing since you are increasing the load on this area with the higher gearing. If it isn't x-drilled, you can do it yourself with a 10mm masonry bit and a half-decent drill press. Also this t/case will be quieter, as it probably has the 33mm gears rather than 27mm. Ray.

The beauty of diesels is that they are essentialy simple beasts. They just need clean fuel at the right time and an unrestricted airflow. Check the function of your injector pump and injectors, and replace your fuel and air filters. You MUST have a diesel fuel filter. If not in the tank, then on the chassis between the tank and the engine bay, or in the engine bay before the injector pump. Ray.

The "short" bolt hole is the one just above the intermediate layshaft when you're looking at the front of the t/case. It's supposed to be a stud and nut normally. If the bolt is too long, it binds the intermediate gear in the T-case. Ray. Just happened to have an LT-230 on my bench so here's a snap:

If it's a MLS (Multi Layer Steel) gasket it may not be obvious because it could just be delaminated in a small part. Since your symptoms did not include cross-contamination between oil and coolant, I feel that you'd be looking at a small section of delamination between a cylinder and a coolant gallery. Esp since it was minor at idle. When your rediator went, was it an overheat situation? That would contribute to a head gasket failure. How many thickness indicator holes does your gasket have? Be sure to replace with the same thickness. Ray.

Borrowing pix from that other thread, I've added a crude yellow circle to show where they must be unplugged. That's the top of the in-tank filter housing which also contains the lift pump and sender. It's hellish expensive and the sockets for the lines are fragile. You've pretty much got to sneak your hand in over the cross member and under the tray! Ray.

Be sure to unplug the suction and return lines before you lower the tank, they are quite rigid (plastic coated copper) and the plastic lift pump/sender/filter housing will snap where they plug in when stressed. Here in NZ that's a $1300 replacement item, so got to be GBP 400.00 to you. Ray.

The water pump doesn't realy "pressurise" the cooling system, that's caused by heat expansion. The pump just moves water from the block to the rad or around the bypass until the thermo opens. You pretty much have two possibilities: 1. The pump is not working, water is boiling in the block because it's not getting to the rad. I don't beleive this is the case because the aeration is not steam, your reservoir is not heating up. You could, of course, just replace it to eliminate it as being a potential cause (PEM500040)... Now, where have I heard that before? 2. You've a blown head gasket, between a pot and the water jacket, and its gently injecting a stream of gas into the coolant at idle, and great gouts of it under throttle. I think this is the problem. As the guys said, get the local to put a sniffer on the reservior, although I understand it's not conclusive with diesels. You're not alone. I'm off to Aussie next month to do far north QLD in an ex-Telstra stretched cab 130 with a TD5. It's been up on blocks for 2 years and last I heard had a coolant leak so I'm taking spare thermo, pump, gaskets, injector harness, brake lines, and plenty of suspension bushes... Stick with it, you'll nail it eventually. Ray.

You may well have... if that air is not from boiling coolant, then it could be from a cylinder. The bottom of the rad is typically cooler until the thermostat opens and allows the engine to draw from there and replace some hot water which is fed back in to the top of the rad. Have you checked the thermostat? If it's frozen shut, you wont be getting enough flow to the block when shes running at other than an idle, you could be getting boiling in the block in that case. The thermo is the plastic Y shaped unit coupled to the top hose just behind and to the left of the rad. If it's not been done for a while, replace it and eliminate it as being a potential cause, part number PEM100990. Ray.

I think that is significant. If the expansion tank is not holding pressure, your coolant may well boil when the engine is under load, and you're losing it all over the bulkhead. Could be more than a leaky cap, could be a good sized split in the tank that's opening when the pressure builds. The TD5 has lots of plumbing, check all your coolant hoses and clips. Ray.

So, does "i have the long studs as fitted to 130's" actually mean that someone has also stolen at least 20" of your chassis rails? Ray.

Ok, thanks Western, looks like I won't be able to see them untill the head is off. I was hoping they would be on a tab sticking out a bit. Pity, as it may mean I have to get a couple of them in and hope one is correct, as I can't have The Freebster off the road for more than a day or two. Ray.