Turbocharger

I think I’d pick something on a box steel frame and rivet alu or galv sheet to it. Put a diagonal in for strength and a small pedestrian door too. If you can, avoid having a bar at floor level on your pedestrian door. Use plenty of shootbolts to hold it when its shut, certainly two at the top and two at the bottom. Your local farm supplies will help here although I found the last chunky ‘farm’ hinges I bought were made of monkey metal and bent horribly. If weight is becoming an issue you could have a skid pad to take the weight of the door when its in the open and closed positions, or even a jockey wheel (on a spring?) to support it all the time. Is security an issue? You could put some chunky hinges and a big padlock on it but I guess there’s no point if you can kick through the skin or get into the shed elsewhere with a claw hammer…

Grease the props, check the oil and coolant, take beverages, boiled sweets and a pile of CDs.

Well, we took two days in north Gloucestershire and had a really enjoyable and relaxing time. Nothing at all hardcore or difficult, I only popped the difflock in to crest a rut and avoid some hawthorn. Despite this I bent two spotlights and the radio ariel... I was also playing with my new 5MP phone camera - here's some photos (at 20% size!) It was outstandingly foggy on the way back too so I was glad of my new rear lights - they certainly improve my visibility to others in gloomy conditions.

And in an uncapped market, as supply is ramped up the price tumbles and we all get a discount? Looking forward to my present through the door, thanks muchly to everyone involved.

Nige - can you (delete my reply and) lock this thread so it only has your input and doesn't end up with 12 pages of 'me too' please? Looking forward eagerly to my European 'special interest' DVD now

Actually, it is just like F1. In the past I've driven into shallow gravel on an access track and become inextricably stuck, I've entered competitions where the man with the best car wins (and where a good driver can pilot a lame nag to victory in the right circumstances) and when I'm designing new bits for my car I've borrowed technology and designs freely from other constructors...

I've had a Ninety for seven years and SWMBO has had a Punto for two months - so far the LR has been more reliable (see my Punto timing belt thread!) and I enjoy driving it more, although the 55 inbred Italian horses under the little bonnet certainly drink less on a long run. I've put 100k miles on the Ninety since 2000 and competed gently (and usually unsuccessfully). I always liked the idea that part of the task was to keep it on the road - it certainly makes you less flamboyant offroad(!) if you've got to drive it home (and to work the next day) and probably makes you more likely to finish an event - last, in my case, but at least I'd finished. Thinking about it, apart from tearing off a brake line once it's very rare that I've retired from an event for mechanical reasons. I guess it depends if you're there to enjoy yourself or to win. Some say there's no point entering if you're not aiming to win but I just want to enjoy myself. In the aforementioned (and deeply respected) PPC their recommendation for a reliable rally car was to use it as a daily driver so it doesn't let you down in a stage. I've seen V8 CCV trailer queens at club meets all through the 1990s carring overheating problems from event to event. They just never get fixed because it doesn't see midweek use. I think Bish has just converted his V8 Rangie to GOF (God's Own Fuel) and sold his Eurobox. Now I'm commuting 10 miles a day so it doesn't really matter which car we're in. The auto Ninety's nicer in Bristol traffic so today we're in that (and the exhaust's rattling... I must sort that out before the weekend.)

I'd say out, and here's why. Whichever tasteful person fitted them up last time, they'll have been mounted with the letters inwards which is the right, proper and discreet way to be. This will mean the unlettered shoulders will have worn more so, given the opportunity, you'd be best to bear the sarcasm and ostracism of blingin' letterin' and go for a more even wear pattern. That's why mine are mounted 'letters out' even though I'd rather they weren't.

Well, we've replanned since TM has to put away his is chicken so we're doing two days around the north Glos area, hopefully enough to keep us busy and then maybe some fireworks and alcohol in between. Anyone want to join us? Ta for the info above - we'll definately head to Wales another weekend so it'll all come in handy.

Yes, I'd forgotten the deep howl of a locked-up SAG on dry tarmac. Excellent for scaringeducating people who'd pulled out in front of you "a little late"

Thanks Dave - I've already read that, I'm just wary of bits that don't mention 'wrap the unit in a sack or polythene so you don't lose all the bearings'. It sounds reasonably straightforward (and if it's knackered, I can't break it any further!)

Autosparks made me an engine loom - they quoted a price, I listed my required tweaks, the price didn't change. Good company with good service. Result

I've got most of the measuring bits but I don't want to spend a fortune on shims. The swarf was in the difflock cross shaft housing (although it all looks clean in there now and it's not been apart). I'll clean up the outside so I don't get more carp into it and then pull it apart selectively for a look at the bearings.

Si's X-charge ties the batteries together when they're charging so the voltage can't shuttle, they're both pulled up to 13.7v from the alternator. When not charging, they're separate so they can settle at their own voltage. To my mind this means you could use totally dissimilar (12v) batteries, like a tractor battery for your engine and a moped battery for your spotlights, radio and fridge. Obviously the fridge wouldn't work for long but you would be able to starat the engine and recharge the smaller batt.

I went from radial 205 M+S remoulds to a 7.50 crossply SAG and within half an hour it cost me two light lenses, a rear quarterlight and a short section of farmer's fence. Fantastic off the road and predictable on it - you don't have any grip but as I entered the corner I could predict where I was going to end up.

I've got a 1.222 LT230 on my (new ) workbench, and I've been told it had swarf in the difflock selector (although I'm not convinced it wasn't a ploy to save him changing it) so I'm going to take it apart and see what's inside. I've got the LR overhaul manual - any hints or tips? Is it full of big springs that'll go ping and scatter bits everywhere? Is there anything that's worth changing inside just in case?

Tupperware?

I got some bulbs, crimps and electric string last night and fought the earthing gremlins to make all kinds of pretty patterns. After some fighting, swapping around and much remaking earths, I have this: I'd like to go to LED bulbs and clear lenses in the future, but for now it works as required.

I agree. The last time I went out to a challenge I came back with two borderline road-legal front wings, a stoved in back end and a partial sense of humour failure, all on my everyday truck. The challenge seemed to be set up to thread between trees, hit a few and then try to grab a punch without sliding sideways into another tree. I’m just like everyone else, I’d like to see a class system which puts my car at the top end so I can win (or just not come last…). My 2p says that your ‘standard’ and ‘modified’ classes above are about right, and I’d like to think policing the gap between the two (ie having a locker but not using it) should be self-enforcing – who wants to win the standard class by cheating?

If you can get access, try unbolting the spring retainer while the vehicle's sat still, a few days before. If you can, it means they can snap off and you can get on with bleeding/swearing/sourcing new bits before the real job. And it's all a little less precarious. If you find you need an extra half inch(!) when it's all askew, I've managed to wrap ratchet straps around the coils before now BUT KEEP YOUR FINGERS CLEAR!!! (and don't put it down 'on end' with any stored energy, ask me how I know)

She has her vices, I have mine...

I found the Very Small Vice in the pound shop, and it was christened by my girlfriend: It's actually very handy for those jobs where you just want a third hand or to stop something wriggling while you solder or gently tap it. Bludgeoning is reserved (for now) for the floor.

Well, I took a lot of your advice, considered my options and looked carefully at what I really need. I have a payrise, a new rented flat and should be in a good position to start investing in my future. However, I'm from the north of the country and one quarter Scot. I decided that I need a workbench to be strong, durable and very very nearly free. B&Q sell flimsy plastic slot-together shelving units for £2 a pair. Ikea sell throwaway particleboard for 90p a sheet. They also flog bits of broken cabinets etc for 90p too. I have some woodscrews from the £1 shop already. Total cost £4.70, remarkably sturdy and holds up my toolbox and spare transfer box admirably and at a handy height for me to discover what lurks within. If I dent/scrape/damage/score/write on/set fire to the bench, oh well, 90p for another top (and I splashed out - a spare is already 'in stock' )

As was said, give it a bl**dy good shove before you go under it (ideally before you take the wheels off). When I'm in scrapyards where cars are piled up I've always tried to tip the top car off before I get in it - it's horrible when it moves...

Imagine if the steering drop arm was <thinks> below the panhard rod. As the vehicle corners to the right, it rolls and the steering joint moves further to the right as it pivots around the chassis end of the panhard rod – this pulls the steering further. If you get it really far below (and I don’t know if this is possible) then a tiny input would eventually make the vehicle roll over. For less critical setups, I think you just get used to it. Thinking aloud, I suspect the LR setup is slightly prone to this (ball joint is slightly below panhard axis) and this will show up any other deficiencies. Might be worth checking that the drop arm is tight on the shaft, the ball joints are tidy, all the bushes look good as you shake the steering etc? I admit I’ve learned to live with mine.