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About greenmeanie

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  1. It could be worse. Here in Switzerland the joke is that the locals would rather change the car than change the oil. If you want to own your own classic car then you are either a good mechanic or a rich man.
  2. How wedded to 24V are you? When it is working it is great but when it breaks it gets expensive. Personally I would use this as the incentive to convert to 12V. The electrical system is not that complicated so you have starter motor, distributor, coil, plugs, heater fan motor, flasher relay, brake warning lamp, wiper motor, washer pump, fuel tank sender, horn and a stack of bulbs which should all be available in Australia. With the exception of some wiring around the batteries the harness remains the same. It may not be significantly cheaper initially but in the long term parts will be easier and cheaper to get hold of. In my case I had the number plate wire short out at the rear of the truck and melt the harness from one end of the truck to the other. Having been bitten by LR ad their crappy attitude to fusing I built an entire new electrical system around a 12 fuse panel from Painless. The fuse panel is now located up in the battery box and the truck is electrically far more reliable than it was when it was a 24V. With a Lucas sport coil and the electronic dizzy from 101Parts it starts on the button and runs like a champ. More than one way to skin a cat so it depends on the direction you take.
  3. World Land Rover Day. It's the international day all traditional Land Rover owners looked at a picture of the new Defender and realised their next 'Land Rover' will be a Land Cruiser or a Jeep.
  4. As stated above Marcus Glenn satin paint, thin it with white spirit but use a fine foam roller to apply. It takes a couple of coats but it comes out very smooth. I did my 101 this way and was very pleased with the results. ,
  5. In the interests of providing some closure with info that may save someone else some grief I have measured the various bearings and seals for the 101 PTO and give some cross reference numbers that should be recognizable to any bearing shop. Item numbers are for the 101 parts book. Item 4 Thrust Bearing, Cross Shaft, 591806 AXK3552 Item 7 Roller bearing 591814 KT354013 Item 13 Roller bearing, cross shaft and output shaft 591807 AXK3047 Item 15 Thrust bearing 591813 KT303513 Item 18 Oil Seal 591819 30X40X7 SKF A10296 Item 31 O-ring 571991 15mm ID 2mm rope dia.
  6. Garry, A bit of easy disassembly today and I have found my problem. The constant mesh gear and shaft assembly is good. My problem is the thrust bearing 591813 (Item 15 in the parts list) that lies between the bevel gear (Item 6) and the cross shaft (Item 9) is completely missing. Fortunately, like you say, I have not used my winch much so there is no scoring on the running surfaces of the mating parts. I see no sign of the race but what made me think a bearing had collapsed was that I had seen some of the rollers coming out in the oil during its annual change. As for root cause analysis. On pulling things apart I note that once you have the bearing support (Item 17) and its shims off the output shaft can be pulled out the housing. My suspicion is that at some time in its life the seal has been changed and the shaft pulled partially or completely out which has allowed that first thrust bearing to fall out of the stack. The mechanic has pushed the shaft back in and there has been nothing external to say that the bearing is now gone. This accounts for the excessive free play in the output gear end float.
  7. That's quite embarrassing. I have been through that manual a thousand times over a couple of decades working on the 101 and never found that page. Admittedly my manual is a knackered old thing with the page tips all curled on each other but the index exists for a reason. There are lots of military parts in the standard dealer system but not this PTO. I've already asked at Blanchards and Able and they don't have things like bearings and shims. The bearings will be COS so a bit of disassembly and some quality time with a set of callipers will sort those out. Shims might be more difficult but I'll have a chat with the local bearing shop and see what they can do. Thanks for your help Garry.
  8. Does anyone here have any documents on the PTO assembly overhaul. No mention of this assembly I made in the 101 repair and overhaul manual. I have the Nokken winch drawing and it does not cover the PTO. The only document that makes any mention of it is the part book which gives you a series of numbers that are not recognized by LR parts dealers. I have a bearing that has collapsed in there which I want to replace but with it being a bevel gear drive I would like some idea of permissable end float as this appears to be 1-2mm right now.
  9. As I hate to leave a thread unfinished here is what I found out and did to complete my job. I bought a Defender steering column NTC968 which has 48 splines at both ends and is 816mm long. The 48 spline version fits a 3 spoke, late SIIA steering wheel which means you can keep the original horn and Tex magna indicator talk. I stripped the inner column out and had the upper bearing land turned down to 22.5mm for its length and the bottom end turned don to 19mm for 150mm from the end. IMG_134, At this point it slides into the Series outer column and the mounted bearing although the splined end is now a couple of inches further down. A Flaming River FR1727DD 3/4-48/1"DD universal joint adapted it to my original collapsible link and job done. The components were comparatively cheap and the machining simple so I am much happier than trying to get splines cut by a machine shop. The only minor thing is that the original UJ was protected from crud in the wheel arch as it sat up behind the splash guard shroud. The new UJ now projects past the shroud so I may make an additional piece to protect it. 109 steering linkage 4 109 steering linkage 2 109 steering linkage 9 That's it. Power steering that keeps the interior of my truck looking stock SIIA without welded modifications.
  10. The idea is to use the Defender inner column mounted in the old Series outer column. Assuming the whole plan works out the extra length of the inner column will be down into the engine bay. It is one reason why I have been going to all this hassle instead of just putting in a Defender column and wheel. For the record, do you know how long a Defender column is? I think it is approx. 28 1/2 inches but I could be wrong.
  11. Interesting. I have a 48 spline Defender column on the way which I plan to strip the inner column from and I think (Maybe I hope) it should adapt to my series outer column fairly easily. If so that will be a lot cheaper than paying a machine shop to cut down the scroll to what I need, add a spline and heat treat it. That, of course, is plan B if the Defender column won't work. I'll post up what I end up with.
  12. Great info. Thank you guys for your help. Hi ho hi ho its off to ebay I go.
  13. Arjan, you are correct. As stated the spline to mount the steering wheel changed at various times and body styles between 36 spline and 48 spline. The Late Series IIA steering wheel is 48 spline and as far as I can tell should mount just fine to steering column upper NTC9068. The spline I don't know much about, but I don't think changed over production, is the universal joint end of the column which I want to confirm is 19mm-48. If the spline is what I believe I can get a U-joint to adapt to what I already have which fits all the holes etc to pass through the bodywork to the PS box while the LR collapsible link won't fit the existing set up. I am fairly sure I can strip the inner column from the Defender assembly and make it work with my series outer column so I can keep all the original horn function and mounting etc giving me a comparatively cheap nut and bolt solution thus avoiding the whole machine shop issue. I'd really appreciate confirmation of the spline on the lower end of the steering column.
  14. I don't think the UJ end has changed over time. I think it should be 19mm-48. The steering wheel spline is what changed with some being 19mm-48 and others 19mm-36. Damned if I'd know why they would bother making the difference as they seem to have used both types of splines on different body styles at the same time. In this case I know the Series steering wheel I have is 19mm-48 but it is the UJ end spline I want confirmed so I can chase down a matching joint that adapts from the Rover column to the Borgeson 1"DD collapsible link. With confirmation of the spline I'm pretty sure I can strip the inner column out of the NTC9068 and make it work with my existing system.
  15. Great, thanks. I want to find an NTC9068 and see what the inner column looks like. I think I can find a UJ to adapt one to the ret of my system.
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