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About greenmeanie

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  1. Just to throw a cure ball into the mix I would consider looking for an Aussie Perentie 110. They are still decent prices, you get a galvy chassis, roll cage in the rear, built in winch in some, largely a dry climate and a much better drivetrain as standard. As a personal thing they also look much more like a proper military vehicle with a cool camo job rather than the standard worn cabbage in the UK. If you are careful you can hunt one down and still have money for the ro ro to get it home. It will take more effort but then it is more unusual. If you go and ask on AULRO I am sure someone will point you in the right direction.
  2. I had a similar idea with a desire to keep the original Series steering wheel and indicator stalks etc. The usual caveats apply to all steering mods as I found out where some places are fine with welded steering columns and in others it is verboten. I had welded my column in my truck when I lived in the US but when I moved the truck to Switzerland I had to remove it and find an alternate solution. I ended up with a solution that can be made with very simple machining and mainly hand tools in the garage. After several years of playing games trying to get a Series column machined down and figuring out how to do splines cheaply it was a simple and cheap solution in the end.I used the upper column from the SIIA. I made a bracket from a piece of 1/4 wall square tube I got cheap as an offcut from the local metal supply place. This was simply shaped using an angle grinder and holes applied with a drill so can be made in your average garage. I added a web for some practice welding but it is not necessary. I then bought a used NTC9068 Defender steering column. For an original appearance in the cab it is important to use this part as it has the 48 splines that match the Late SIIA 3 spoke steering wheel as opposed to the 36 spline version which requires a Defender wheel. I removed the inner column and had the upper bearing land turned down to 22.5mm for its length and the bottom turned down to 19mm for 150mm from the end which was about $30 at the local tractor repair shop. Flaming River sell UJs with 3/4-48 splines to mate to you collapsible link. It all then bolts together. Obviously this was done in the US using a Scout box so your linkage may be simpler using a P38 box in the UK. For what its worth I forgot to mention I used a mounted bearing from McMaster-Carr but you should easily find an equivalent at a UK supplier. https://www.mcmaster.com/5967k82 IMG_1370 IMG_1369 l
  3. I hope UCC have improved their customer service over the last few years. I admit its been about 10 years now but when I bought into the hype I tried buying a 101 canvas from them. I chased them for about a year calling about once a month. The reply from the receptionist was always that 'Steve is very busy' and that he would call back - he never did or e-mail or anything. The overwhelming impression I got was that when they have a big MOD contract you LR hobbiest private sales are simply unimportant. I got fed up chasing them for business they obviously didn't want and took my money elsewhere. Over about 20 years of ownership I have had an AWT canvas that was put together well but rotted out sitting outside in Arizona waiting to be shipped to my current country and it is currently wearing an Exmoor Trim one which has lasted 5 years and is doing fine although, as stated above, the tapes have faded. I now keep the truck garaged and I apply some stone sealer stuff every year or two which keeps the canvas supple and fills any pin holes which goes a long way to extending the life.
  4. I have a Zeus kit on a 101 which IIRC uses the same calliper. Brake pad cross reference numbers are Mintex brake pads code mgb 522 or Quinton Hazel brake pads code BP 105
  5. It could be worse. Here in Switzerland the joke is that the locals would rather change the car than change the oil. If you want to own your own classic car then you are either a good mechanic or a rich man.
  6. How wedded to 24V are you? When it is working it is great but when it breaks it gets expensive. Personally I would use this as the incentive to convert to 12V. The electrical system is not that complicated so you have starter motor, distributor, coil, plugs, heater fan motor, flasher relay, brake warning lamp, wiper motor, washer pump, fuel tank sender, horn and a stack of bulbs which should all be available in Australia. With the exception of some wiring around the batteries the harness remains the same. It may not be significantly cheaper initially but in the long term parts will be easier and cheaper to get hold of. In my case I had the number plate wire short out at the rear of the truck and melt the harness from one end of the truck to the other. Having been bitten by LR ad their crappy attitude to fusing I built an entire new electrical system around a 12 fuse panel from Painless. The fuse panel is now located up in the battery box and the truck is electrically far more reliable than it was when it was a 24V. With a Lucas sport coil and the electronic dizzy from 101Parts it starts on the button and runs like a champ. More than one way to skin a cat so it depends on the direction you take.
  7. World Land Rover Day. It's the international day all traditional Land Rover owners looked at a picture of the new Defender and realised their next 'Land Rover' will be a Land Cruiser or a Jeep.
  8. As stated above Marcus Glenn satin paint, thin it with white spirit but use a fine foam roller to apply. It takes a couple of coats but it comes out very smooth. I did my 101 this way and was very pleased with the results. ,
  9. In the interests of providing some closure with info that may save someone else some grief I have measured the various bearings and seals for the 101 PTO and give some cross reference numbers that should be recognizable to any bearing shop. Item numbers are for the 101 parts book. Item 4 Thrust Bearing, Cross Shaft, 591806 AXK3552 Item 7 Roller bearing 591814 KT354013 Item 13 Roller bearing, cross shaft and output shaft 591807 AXK3047 Item 15 Thrust bearing 591813 KT303513 Item 18 Oil Seal 591819 30X40X7 SKF A10296 Item 31 O-ring 571991 15mm ID 2mm rope dia.
  10. Garry, A bit of easy disassembly today and I have found my problem. The constant mesh gear and shaft assembly is good. My problem is the thrust bearing 591813 (Item 15 in the parts list) that lies between the bevel gear (Item 6) and the cross shaft (Item 9) is completely missing. Fortunately, like you say, I have not used my winch much so there is no scoring on the running surfaces of the mating parts. I see no sign of the race but what made me think a bearing had collapsed was that I had seen some of the rollers coming out in the oil during its annual change. As for root cause analysis. On pulling things apart I note that once you have the bearing support (Item 17) and its shims off the output shaft can be pulled out the housing. My suspicion is that at some time in its life the seal has been changed and the shaft pulled partially or completely out which has allowed that first thrust bearing to fall out of the stack. The mechanic has pushed the shaft back in and there has been nothing external to say that the bearing is now gone. This accounts for the excessive free play in the output gear end float.
  11. That's quite embarrassing. I have been through that manual a thousand times over a couple of decades working on the 101 and never found that page. Admittedly my manual is a knackered old thing with the page tips all curled on each other but the index exists for a reason. There are lots of military parts in the standard dealer system but not this PTO. I've already asked at Blanchards and Able and they don't have things like bearings and shims. The bearings will be COS so a bit of disassembly and some quality time with a set of callipers will sort those out. Shims might be more difficult but I'll have a chat with the local bearing shop and see what they can do. Thanks for your help Garry.
  12. Does anyone here have any documents on the PTO assembly overhaul. No mention of this assembly I made in the 101 repair and overhaul manual. I have the Nokken winch drawing and it does not cover the PTO. The only document that makes any mention of it is the part book which gives you a series of numbers that are not recognized by LR parts dealers. I have a bearing that has collapsed in there which I want to replace but with it being a bevel gear drive I would like some idea of permissable end float as this appears to be 1-2mm right now.
  13. As I hate to leave a thread unfinished here is what I found out and did to complete my job. I bought a Defender steering column NTC968 which has 48 splines at both ends and is 816mm long. The 48 spline version fits a 3 spoke, late SIIA steering wheel which means you can keep the original horn and Tex magna indicator talk. I stripped the inner column out and had the upper bearing land turned down to 22.5mm for its length and the bottom end turned don to 19mm for 150mm from the end. IMG_134, At this point it slides into the Series outer column and the mounted bearing although the splined end is now a couple of inches further down. A Flaming River FR1727DD 3/4-48/1"DD universal joint adapted it to my original collapsible link and job done. The components were comparatively cheap and the machining simple so I am much happier than trying to get splines cut by a machine shop. The only minor thing is that the original UJ was protected from crud in the wheel arch as it sat up behind the splash guard shroud. The new UJ now projects past the shroud so I may make an additional piece to protect it. 109 steering linkage 4 109 steering linkage 2 109 steering linkage 9 That's it. Power steering that keeps the interior of my truck looking stock SIIA without welded modifications.
  14. The idea is to use the Defender inner column mounted in the old Series outer column. Assuming the whole plan works out the extra length of the inner column will be down into the engine bay. It is one reason why I have been going to all this hassle instead of just putting in a Defender column and wheel. For the record, do you know how long a Defender column is? I think it is approx. 28 1/2 inches but I could be wrong.
  15. Interesting. I have a 48 spline Defender column on the way which I plan to strip the inner column from and I think (Maybe I hope) it should adapt to my series outer column fairly easily. If so that will be a lot cheaper than paying a machine shop to cut down the scroll to what I need, add a spline and heat treat it. That, of course, is plan B if the Defender column won't work. I'll post up what I end up with.
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