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Jon White

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Posts posted by Jon White

    DIY Track rod

    in Tools and Fabrication

    Posted

    Er..........you need two - on Right hand thread one left hand thread.

    IIRC its something daft like 9/16 UNS and no thats not a typo - UNS is Unified Special.

    By that read special, not a standard thread, not easy to get hold of and ludicrously expensive!

    I seem to recall someone on here pricing the taps and it was in the region of £100 for the pair.

    Jon

    DIY Track rod

    in Tools and Fabrication

    Posted

    They were a specific dimention but I cant remeber what it was. I know he had several attempts at it before he got it right! He's in Ireland this week, but I'm sure he'll answer you when he's back.

    Cheers

    Jon

    Quick question on EFI

    in International Forum

    Posted

    Can anyone tell me which sensor is which on a 3.5 V8 with Flapper EFI?

    Which is the coolant temperature sensor? Is it the one nearest the top rad hos witht he redish brown plug, or is it the one slightly further away with the cream coloured plug?

    I'm confused and cannot find anything that tells me absolutely which is which!

    Nige tells me its the reddish one, but the sensor doesnt look like the pics in the manual and I'm wondering if some muppets wired it up wrong in the past.

    It runs beautifully when warm, but wont idle when its cold so first stop in my book is to check the coolant temp sensor.

    Anyone help??

    Thanks

    Jon

    DIY Track rod

    in Tools and Fabrication

    Posted

    Yep - I hear exactly what you're saying. I dont think theres any way to get away from the military shackles.

    tonk has extended the front shackles on the chassis mounts as well as running 1 tonne shackles. I'm just running 1 tonne shackles on the standard swb chassis mounts. Tonk has had problems with the U/j's binding on his props however.

    Only other suggestion I could make that i considered was the fitting of a LHD O/s swivel housing. This would then give you a mount on both sides in front of the axle. You'd have to drill the tapers out and rose joint it, and on the n/s simply stack the two rod ends onto the one mounting hole. Alternately I've see it done on a few trucks where they've simply mounted the track rod this way, and the drag link mounts onto the track rod via a bracket welded on to is part way along its length.

    Frankly in my opinion neither are "properly engineered" solutions.

    As I've said before, Tonk and i looked into this at length, and we could not come up with a solution to it that we felt was properly enginered, that didnt compromise ground clearance.

    The only other way I've ever seen this done is by using a 20mm thick spacer between the top of the leaves and the bottom of the axle, this then gives sufficient clearance and correct castor angles etc. However it does compromise ground clearance.

    Tyres wise mark is running 34" Simex and i'm running 285/75 grizzlies which come out at 33".

    Jon

    DIY Track rod

    in Tools and Fabrication

    Posted

    Yes, toyotas use cranked track rods to clear diff pans etc, but this is when the track rod is in front of the axle. The rod is therefore in tension when you are going forwards down the road, so the bend is less of a problem. However when its behind the axle the track rod goes into compression and hence needs to be straight.

    How about fitting the damper to the drag link. Would this solve the problem?

    Cheers

    Jon

    DIY Track rod

    in Tools and Fabrication

    Posted

    Bent track rods on range rover axles are lethal as the track rod is in compression. Even Mr idex has succeeded in bending his 30mm solid steering bar.

    Sort the axle conversion out properly, such that you can fit a straight track rod.

    This is one reason why Tonk and I discounted the range rover axle route when we did our disk conversions as we couldnt find a decent way to sort the steering out. I've seen a few solutions that are downright lethal!

    Jon

    Replacing front window channels - how?

    in Range Rover Forum

    Posted

    Mate of mine is trying to replace one of the front window channels on his E reg rangie. It sthe bit of metal with the rubber strip inside that clips to the bottom of the glass that engages onto the electric winder mechanism.

    Anyone got a trick to get the glass into the rubber in the strip, or vice versa? We've tried all sorts and cannot persuade it in! Is the onyl way to do it by taking the glass out and basically hammering it on?

    Thanks

    Jon

    Axle refurb

    in International Forum

    Posted

    Yep - wire brush in the angle grinder then a coat of chassis black. Dont use hammerite - its rubbish.

    Chassis black is great casue theres no need to prime it and it sticks like **** to a blanket!

    Jon

    Solder or Crimp?

    in International Forum

    Posted

    Yes the gas powered soldering irons are good, but get one of the ones with Piezo ignition as they're alot less hassle to light. Also if you get the right ones you can buy a whole selection of different tips for various jobs. Maplin do a good range as a starting point.

    Jon

    200tdi dampener question

    in International Forum

    Posted

    Yes you can get repair sleeves from any bearing retailer. they're quite expensive however. I've no idea what they're made of as I've never trid to use one.

    That said are you using genuine oil seals and genuine dampers? It could be pattern part seals are made of a more agressive material etc.

    Jon

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