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Jon White

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Posts posted by Jon White

  1. Think it depends on the type of soil you drive on. Round my way its very sandy and extreme trekkers are hopeless as they just dig huge holes. Ask Les about the bottomless holes at Slab common!

    The Jungle trekkers are cheaper and seem to work well on sand as do grizzly claws if you air them down.

    Have to say I'd like so see something of an in between between a simex and grizzly, but that isnt a re-mould if that makes sense!

    I dont have anythign against re-moulds per se, but find the grizzlies expensive when compared to brand new tyre prices!

    Jon

  2. They'll be the ones! Cheers Mark!

    Fancy listing them under interior trim........sigh............now i look in the right place they're on the epc too!

    Sigh.........

    Now wheres my welding helmet........I may be some time........

    At least the previous owner's saved me the hassle of cutting some of the repair panels - shame he couldnt be bothered to weld em on!

    Cheers

    Jon

  3. Afternoon chaps,

    Can anyone help me out with a part number for a 1988 3.5 efi classic rangie? I'm after the part number for the ickle plastic clips that hold the outer sill trims/side skirts onto the outer sills. There are about half a dozen of them and they look like just plastic pop rivets.

    I've looked on EPC and i cant even find the sill trims let alone the clips. So far as I can tell they're standard fitment but I'm no expert on rangies so...........its definately NOT got a brooklands kit on it so they're nothign to do with that........

    Got a tad (read alot) of welding to do on my mates rangie so the outer trims need to come off so I can weld it all up.

    Bluddy bodger previous owner has pop riveted repair sections over the rust holes in the sill.........sigh.....

    Cheers

    Jon

  4. It always crosses my mind when I see these threads, that you two blokes have each got far more dirt on the other one's cockups than could ever be posted on any forum :D

    :lol::lol::lol:

    I suppose most call it "friendly banter"...........

    Nige takes the biscuit though - when he cocks things up he does it in style.........scampi and chips anyone?

    Jon

  5. hahahahahaha well my trucks all green again now thanks!

    I tried mine a couple of months ago in the pond at Slab and had water right up over the bonnet without any sign of a misfire. I even managed to stall it in the middle (dont ask) and it re-started instantly in the middle of the lake, first turn of the key.

    As to the heater I blame landrover poxy wire colours all matched up, I wired it up and the fan ran. It never crossed my mind it would run backwards.........still we could say alot about a certain person hybrid couldnt we that blew fuses all the time due to the shocking electrics!

    Jon

  6. Well I say keep it simple as no-one wants a whole set of rules.

    20 post count autoupgrade to allow you to post in the classified is a damn good idea and i feel should be implemented. It'll solve alot of the problems in my opionion.

    Otherwsie it seems pretty good as it is. Just keep the OT stuff to a minimum, bearing in mind this a is a landrover forum, not a personal chat room as some people seem to think of it as.

    Jon

  7. I've got a set on mine. Much quieter on the road than the previous set of general SAG's, and much better handling on the road to boot.

    Off road they definately work better if you air them down to about 17 psi. I run tubes in mine and have had no problems.

    Only thing I would add is that I thought re-moulds were supposed to be cheap! I can get brand new brand named mud terrains in the same size for less money! To my mind £105 for a 285/75 (the ones I run) is alot for a re-mould when you consider you can buy brand Wildcat EXT in the same size for £91!

    Jon

  8. Might be worth just temporarily putting a gauge on it just to check what the oil pressure actually is!!!

    Mine ran for miles with NO oil pressure.......well from Brick kiln to home.....bottom end was knocking so badly the whole truck shook!!!!

    Jon

  9. Its not worth buggering about with them these days - just shove a re-con or known good one on and be done with it if its anything more than stuck brushes. Mondeo ones are good value and work well - £15 or so down the scrappers.....

    If its been used off road at all my bet would be the brushes jammed up with mud. Most modern alternators you can drop the brush pack off the back by undoing a couple of screws without even removing the alt from the engine. Shove the brush pack in a bucket of clean water and work the brushes in and out with your fingers until they free off. Bolt back on and problem probably solved.

    Mine used to do this all the time. Everytime i sunk the thing in muddy water they'd get jammed up.

    The battery is a red herring. If you've got less than 13.5 volts with everything (lights heater etc) turned off with the engine running at 1500 rpm the alternators knackered, regardless of how good or bad the battery is.

    If you're that concerned its the battery take it down the motor factors and get them to test it with one of the heavy discharge testers. However I'll tell you again - the alternator is the first problem you need to fix!

    Jon

  10. 12.5 volts and dropping when you rev it shouts knackered alternator to me! Should be chucking out 13.8 as soon as the revs rise above about 1500rpm, especially if the battery is flat!

    Even with a dead battery, the engine should still run happily as larry so long as the alternator is charging. Flat battery should only affect starting.

    I'd say in the first instance the alternator is knackered. Hence he gets the in the rangie, it drives for a while, then dies as the battery voltage gets too low to run the efi.

    Change the alternator first, and then see if it solves the problem. If not then change the battery.

    Jon

  11. on a technical note, the page title seems to stick on "Enter site" once you nav to the other pages?

    Funnily enough i noticed that the other day but havnt got round to fixing it yet - still some work to do on it anyways. Will be fixed on the next update.....

    Cheers

    Jon

  12. But even if it's a 0.5mm offset between bearings, that doesn't cater for the disc being around 2.5mm offset from the middle of the calliper body, I've never had a bearing that badly out of tolerance :blink:

    I have - mine was about 3mm out. Not saying it is the problem, just saying check it!

  13. Yep - wot he said!!! No idea if tehy were a later fitment but I remember seeing them when a mag did a feature on fitting the TI brakes kit.

    From memory the bearing i threw away was an SKF and was replaced with an RHP. Neither were cheapo unbranded bearings!

    Even then the offset was about 0.5mm different to the offside.

    Jon

  14. Rob,

    The TI kits are supposed to come with replacement filler plugs that are socket headed so that you can fit the calipers. Secondly I think the tolerance in the swivel housings is very large, since I can remove one of mine without removing the caliper but the other I cant.

    As to the disk offset problem you have, have you checked the wheel bearings? I had exactly this problem when i fitted my disks and had to change a brand new wheel bearing for one from a different manufacturer, since the first new one i fitted casued there to be too much offset. Suggest you have a very careful measure up and make sure that this isn't causeing your problem. Seems that there is also potential for too much tolerance here also!

    Jon

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