Jon White
-
Posts
2,540 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Jon White
-
-
Actually that said, I've heard tell of people bending series steering arms when used with PAS, so this may not be the best solution. I've not bent one yet however.......drag link bends all the bluddy time though......
-
Depending on the quality of the roses they can last very well, but i'd expect to see 6-9months out of them.
diahatsu pics on the way(ish).
Ive done two like this, i just thought all of the series had servicable(ie removable) king pins.
As for the standard shafts being stronger, at the hub and u joint maybe, they are just the same at the diff.
But the sky is the limit with upgrades on rr stuff. short of having stuff custom made with series stuff you are stuffed.
6-9 months is not long enough IMHO.
Nice one - ta!
Agreed.........sorry - I meant to say I think the U/J's are stronger than CV's. I've put twists in the inner front shafts of mine at the diff end, but they're cheap and easy to replace.
True. Sometimes I thing having a weaker link is a bonus however. Last time I broke it I took all the teeth off of the input gear in the transfer box!
Be interested to see some more info on a "properly engineered" RR axle conversion thats safe and doesnt compromise ground clearance.
Never seen a 2 piece steering arm from a series - anyone know different?
Cheers
Jon
-
Duff king lead, dizzy cap or rotor?
Tried pulling the king lead off the dizzy and checking for a spark from the end of that?
Jon
-
Using a lhd swivel housing and stacking roses at the front works well enough,
Or the same solution but using a diahatsu TRE that has a tapered hole in it for the steering bar to attach.
Another way is to take the standard series steering arms (the ones that attach with the king pins) and press the king pins out, have new king pins made to suit the rangy swivel and then drill and tap the rangy swivel to take the 4 bolts fixing bolts, job done standard steering
Hmmmmm not a fan of rose joints for an off roader as they wear too quickly.
Never seen the diahatsu TRE's. Got any piccys??
Every series steering arm I've ever seen is a one piece casting. Are genunine ones pressed in or something?
I still firmly beleive however that standard (late) series front shafts are stronger than standard rangie fronts by a long way..........and you dont end up with those troublesome CV's.....
-
I dont like the conversion where people put rangie axles onto series. I've seen plenty where the steering rods are nothing other than downright dangerous. The only other way i've seen it done is by spacing the axle a long way up off od the front leaves but this compromises ground clearance.
Not happy with with either solution really.....
Jon
-
Dont want pink fluffy ones then???
-
Blu tack????? Any you take the tiddle out of me for the bit of wood on my dashboard!!!
Nigels engineering blue peter style - sticky backed plastic and a pair of Val's old knickers!
Sigh.......
Jon
-
Yeah but Will - surely the finish weight will depend on whether you do the welding on it or not!
-
What still astounds me with this stuff is that with the extra demand for it now, and the extra competition from a number of different manufacturers, that the price still doesnt seem to have come down significantly.
IMHO its still too expensive for what is effectively a consumable item.
Jon
-
Or a tenner or so at Sodbury.......if you dont mind the inevitable towing hitch shaped dent!
Jon
-
Depends quite simply on how you drive and how much mechanical sympathy you've got.
As mark says - late (24 spline outer) front and rear is as good as you'll get for sensable money. Options are very limited for the series anyway as few people make uprated shafts. The fronts are pretty strong and we both still run standard (late) front shafts with Arb's and silly tyres.....
Jon
-
Nope. Read the megajolt page and it'll explain how to align it. Basically needs to be so many degrees on from TDC as related to the crankshaft sensor position.
Mines 155mm dia IIRC. As Nige found out none of the bought ones are an ideal fit.
Mines slotted to allow adjustment such that you can get the timing spot on.
HTH
Jon
-
Fit edis 4 - far better than any dizzy so long as you aint concerned with origionality.
Jon
-
Just a quickie - anyone else when they've fitted an XP motor to an 8274 had to shim the comm of the motor casue theres too much endfloat in it???
I had to put a 2mm (ish) thick washer on the shaft to take up the slack.
Is this right???
thanks
Jon
-
This will give you alot of what you want! Not sure what grade stainless bolts are however.
Jon
-
Ash,
Can you not just adjust out the play in the box?
Otherwise, the 3 bolt is generally regarded as bullet proof, whereas the 4 bolts are generally a little more fragile. I'd be inclined to say that if you've got a 3 bolt at the moment, and are happy with it save for the play then just chop it in for a re-con 3 bolt box. Paddocks are doing them for sub £100 exchange now.
Jon
-
I'd say stick with the edis. Using megasquirt to control the coil packs without requires extra components soldered onto the backs of borads, atteched with flying leads etc. A horrible bodge IMHO. If they modded the board such that the driver chips were mounted properly on the PCB I'd consider it, but until then use the Edis.
I can supply an ignition map for a standard 3.5 on Carbs. HFH's is probably very odd casue of that stupid engine he's got!
Jon
-
Now why couldnt you have suggested that before???? Took me 2 hours to find the feckin things!!!!!
A tiny blob of grease also holds them in place nicely for re-assembly!
Jon
-
You want a U/V filter. That'll make the water clear!
As to blanket week - go buy a grass carp - they love to eat it!
HTH
Jon
-
Morning Ash,
Yup - it will, but bear in mind they're alot physically bigger and so you'll need to check you've got the clearance.
IIRC the pipe fittings are also the same so its a straight swap.
Jon
-
If its been popping out of second, you need to replace the 1st/2nd synchro as you suggest, but also look very closely at the 2nd speed gear as the teeth on this that the synchro engage onto wear badly. It'd be a shame to replace the synchro only to find it doesnt fix the problem casue the 2nd gear is worn! When I had this problem I had to replace both the synchro and the 2nd speed gear. They're not a huge amount of money.
Remember to put some threadlock on that bolt!
Cheers
Jon
-
Er............yeah that'll be the problem then!!! That bolt should be locktitied up nice and tight (torque setting is in the manual!)
That'd do it..........just hope it hasnt killed anything else!!
Jon
-
Tin of NATO green and roller........
Alternately a 6" brush if your bodywork is like Tonk's!
-
If you're only measuing the hegith of the piston when at TDC above the block cant you just use a vernier? Or am I missing summat - I dont understand these diesely things........
Jon
half shafts
in Series Forum
Posted
Aint got the room for anything large diameter than stock as it rubs on the leaves on full articliation as it is.....
Might ty shoving some round bar down the middle of it at some point to beef it up........I just carry spare ones - far easier!