Nigelw
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Posts posted by Nigelw
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I´m thinking about this system because, if bent standard radius arms are used, axle will be 100% stock, chassis will be 100% stock, 100% of existing bushes will be used and a simple bolt on gearbox crossmemeber will be the only "special" part needed. I think that, at least in my case, using standard radius arms as a base will ease things when dealing with the ITV (our MoT equivalent).
Think you could be on to something there but I only question how much bend/how much shorter the radius arm becomes? Or am I looking for a problem????
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I have had massive issues with buying genuine parts here, and although it is Land Rover GLOBAL I can buy cheaper from a main dealer in the UK and have it shipped here quicker than waiting for parts to be delivered to a main dealers the city for me to collect, but on the whole I have learned a long time ago !you get what you pay for" and always seemed to find out the hard way that genuine parts from main dealers were always what I wanted and yes they cost more but they always lasted longer, so now I just bite the bullet, unless I am doing one of my net write ups for a parts supplier/manufacturer in which case I get a massive discount so it does not matter.
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Looking at it though, it does seem easier to package around the existing components like prop and sump.
But I am even more confused by the title things as I thought "one" was welded "A" frame to axle and connected to chassis, this looks to have adjustable links in it that are tied to the link arm and to a bracket with a mounting higher up, maybe to correct castor?
Anyone care to clarify my befuddled mind?
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Essential on a V8 and a 300Tdi I might add, good find.
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Thankfully not my handy work for once
But out of pity I took an afternoon off my own project to go and help/advise.It was a case of getting pi55 wet through and cutting it out and getting creative with some thread rod and some off cuts of angle.
it was about 14mm out forward and the the door wouldn't shut, but it had also dropped by 20mm too
, guess who has been commissioned to do the other side now then 
Getting busy in my bushmans workshop. -
Have been asked to help a friend out with his Disco, the thing is he cut the door pillar away to fit H/D box section sills, but he didn't brace the pillar before welding it up and now the door gap is major bad, he has had to adjust the door pin out over a centimeter to get it closed.
What is the easiest way to get it back in place?
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On my old 300 series V8 there were hooks just screwed into the trim but on others I know of they never had the roller blind as it was an "option" I am lead to believe, so it may never have had one.
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Is that not a cast item you have there? And it looks to me like it goes inside not outside the belt? Sorry never payed much attention to the serp on my 3.9, it just worked
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I would be so ashamed to put that on there!!!
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I much prefer the lads who wreck a standard rot-box than the "all the gear and no idea" crowd, the lads wreck it and big time and have no such portrayal of vehicle status to attain, the "all the gear" mob get pizzy when they do get stuck, stressed up over nothing when it comes to actually driving. Hence why they bought all the gear, they have no idea of what they are actually going to need, nor how to use it as they often have not taken the time to learn the basics.
I spent 18 weekends spectating and helping at trials and events before I actually participated in a trial, even then easy driving and then lots of practice of my mistakes on pay and play days so I could learn better vehicle control and reactions to my inputs.
Christ that is over 7yrs since I actually competed a truck and now 3yrs since I last did any real off road driving, gonna be a little bit rusty when I do get back out there, but same again, start slow and small and build up to the higher ranks.
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In my next big parts order I have added part No. ERR3093 to my list, it is a 3X V belt pulley namely for 200Tdi's running aircon, but question is, if I move up to this pulley do I also have to change the crank damper for any reason or is it only swapping the pulley when I change the cam belt?
IDEAS????
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E-bay, but also beware that things can end up in a bidding frenzy an when the mist gets up you end up over paying!!!
Or scour the locals and add trader etc,. £2,500 is bottom end for a 90 and anything that price will be a rotter I can almost assure you!
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I would imagine the water gets to 88 before the oil gets to 74
No, I find my oil stat opens long before the water flows through the top pipe.
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Deep hollow drift kits to accommodate common speedi-sleeve applications on Land rovers.
I had to get creative last time I did a stub axle as it was a long way to the land!!!
Might be a versatile tool to sell into other markets where speedi-sleeves are becoming popular
Oh and seal mandrels, long and hollow so the shafts don't always need pulled to fit, for all the usual suspects too, pinched that from someone else
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1" and be done with it, mans tools
I am still amazed by your build, it makes me smile every time I read through and the machining is top
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Oh and not BritPart bashing here Nigel but the BritPart Defender hand brake cables (I know you are on about a Disco) have been pretty poor, a couple of months use and then snap. So if you do buy BritPart have a very good look at the end attachments.
I know exactly what you are talking about there CW!!! My friendly Defender bender has had 4 hand brake cables all passed back under their warranty and they honored him with the purchase of a genuine parts one from the main dealers in town, he bought it faxed them a copy of the factuur(invoice to you and me) and they refunded him both the genuine one and the BP one, seems it does pay to keep complaining.
Decided to tackle it when I fit the new rotors and pads in a few weeks time after I have filled my fetish with a bit of welding.
Like the innovation of the placcy bag, will do the GT85 first and if no joy the bag jobby, worst case will be a genuine parts or maybe allmakes/bearmach one.
Thanks for the help guys.
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Are they still jointed at the bottom of the drivers footwell as they used to be on a D1 and went through the support bracket to the door post and body mount.
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The hand brake has never rested in it's usual position since I got this truck and the cable seems to be seized? Anyone else had this problem?
What to do?
Has to come off either way, so try and free it up or just replace?
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Had a visitor to my barn today to see my project in the flesh, nice guy Johan, brought beer too
.He was telling me about his plan to buy a local series 3 to rebuild and asked me "what would be your best advice when I start my project?"
Seemed a little confused when I said "keep the nut on a few threads when you try to pull the steering wheel off!!!"
Just wondering what was "your" best advice to someone when they asked for it?
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as an example the 200 & 300 tdi engines are fitted with a 74 degree opening oil thermostat & the coolant thermostat is 88 degree opening.
How does that affect the warm up of the engine and life span of the oil? I ask as the oil goes into the cooler in the rad and at a 14 degree lower stat it will cool the engine faster than it getting up to the 88 degree operating temp, I can't help but think that there is little logic in the oil stat opening at a lower temp than the water stat based on what has been said so far?
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I contacted Foundry about X-eng products and they were really helpful and satisfied my query, they have two orders from me this month
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Why would you want to replace the entire loom?? I would be more inclined to pay someone to modify your own loom and remove the unwanted excess from that, the plus side from that is it will be massively cheaper as cost of copper cable can be silly and especially keeping to the right colour codes etc, you could still have it upgraded to accommodate all your extras too or maybe just to future proof it for potential upgrades.
PS.
I wonder if your siggy should read epicurean(lower case) as the capitalized is a meaning of following the philosophies of materialism 
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You have a gain of just under 10% will be interested to hear how you get on with the new taller gearing as I am worried about low box now being too high for slow crawly type stuff now as I did the exact same thing with my truck.
Here is a comparison picture of the difference in height from a 235/85 to a 205 standing side by side.
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That is simply amazing!!!
Now to track them down and get them on here to do a thread on it's build
Looking very purposeful I might add with the spec-lift on the back. Really like what they did with the rear arches in the tub, looks very factory fitted.
But out of pity I took an afternoon off my own project to go and help/advise.
, guess who has been commissioned to do the other side now then 
Getting busy in my bushmans workshop.
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I wonder if your siggy should read epicurean(lower case) as the capitalized is a meaning of following the philosophies of materialism 
Overdrive sump
in International Forum
Posted
Oooh like your thinking there!!!
Ashcroft does a high capacity sump for the LT230 with cooling fins. This one