Nigelw
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Posts posted by Nigelw
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The viscous fan if solid should be replaced with a new part, you say you have replaced it already, my question is with a brand new one or a S/H item?
A brand new one that is faulty needs returned to the store and exchanged, they are not serviceable items.
It is unlikely that you would buy a defective new unit but it is not unheard of!
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I run 235/85 16 on my Disco, piccy shows size difference from the previous 235/75 15 General AT2s
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Trembler switch in the truck, fitted to cheap MP3 player with speaker, and a recording of exactly this...
Like that idea but perhaps better a blast of CO2 at the ground? Would scare the bejeezus outta them and perhaps forensics could pick up DNA from them pizzing themselves as they legged it?
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Here we go again, visiting a new 4X4 parts shop today really threw me a sideways swing, what to do, carry on with this 90 or take on a CAMEL TROPHY Discovery that was campaigned in 1992 by the Belgian team?
What to do?????
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The current Grabber is nowhere near as long lasting as either the previous AT2 or the BFG. I have had all three types, and just ordered a set of BFGs to replace the Grabber ATs on my Ranger. They are well mannered tyres, but don't last long.
Funny as I was reading this and lots of mentions for the General AT2 but none for the current AT3 as the AT2 is no longer produced and has been out of production a couple of years and it is really on stocks being used up if you do find them.
I know this as I needed 2 AT2s for my Disco and found them no longer available and when asking around I found they were replaced by the AT3 and were well publicized too.
Horses for courses really, our old heavy plant fitters 110s were shod with BFG A/Ts and they were getting nigh on 100,000 miles a set, good mix of mud, sand and motorways.
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Lack of boost could be wastegate actuator rod needing adjustment, the rest is pump related I am almost sure.
Try swapping it over with a known good one and see how you get on.
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Right, greased all up and have adjusted the brakes, not so happy with the amount of adjustment and think a new set of shoes might be in order.
Thanks for the help.
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Got a problem with the ALKO auto reverse brking on my horse trailer, I know sod all about it apart from it didn' work at the tech inspection and failed so needs sorting.
It pulls the brakes on with the H/brake, but at the inspection it just pushed the plunger straight in with no braking at all, anyone know how to sort it? Or is it a case of new hitch time?
Sorry not land rover related exactly but it does get dragged around by a Disco3 occassionally
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Super, now armed with a part number I will go straight to the main dealers for the studs, paddocks are €0.50 per stud so shouldn't be overly expensive me thinks
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A long time ago now I swapped out the old 10 spline for 24, now I am ever closer to getting this thing on the road to a safety test I have to sort out one or two lingering problems I had forgotten about.
Whilst laying under it welding I just happened to glance at the back of the front diff, and noticed the nuts to have thread showing inside them, initial panic subsiding and remembering that the studs were too short but needing to be mobile again so it could be put back outside it had to be put back together and I kind of forgot until tonight.
Now, how do they fit? Can I replace them easily with longer ones? Can I even get new ones to replace them with?
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Considering how much has gone into it I think the price is about right, especially as it is brand new and has been customized on a new car not an old wreck refurb, now had it been a wrecks to riches refurb then yep over priced chancer but not this time I don't think.
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Mostly the fine threads on the suspension but it is a little bit mix and match under there!!
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Coil is not related to ECU for injection and pretty sure fuel pump isn't either, anything specific you want to know?
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It's rubbish when you are bidding on something on eBay and the seller pulls it to sell it off-line
It's worse still when bidding and winning an item on ebay.be that is cash on collection only to find that it is in England
Luckily seller was ok about it and sold it to the next highest bidder who was only €3 behind my winning bid 
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up the wire feed speed and don't loiter, try and get both pieces cleans as you can with a slight gap. Use leather sleeves ear defs and an apron over your nether regions
Best advice to give any novice welder
Practice loads before you do it for real, I know it helped me to spend a week welding old scrap together that was just hanging over the edge of the bench whilst I was on my knees underneath.
Just wondering out loud here but would it not be easier to weld the tray onto thick angle irons and then drill and bolt to chassis using crush tubes, or was that idea scrapped for various other reasons?
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Surging is something I would normally look to fueling as it would be over or under,over fueling giving tell tale smoke under just flat spots and no power.
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You do have a receipt for your chassis I hope!
Oh yes!!!
They don't do anything like the SVA/IVA system here, basically, it is what it is, and if it conforms to the CoC that comes with the papers then they have to test it as the car it was, even if it was rebuilt it is still what it once was as the chassis is the identifying component of the car, nothing will be changed just built up accordingly over 2/3yrs.
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I would imagine that building one from bits works out to be at least as expensive as buying a complete vehicle ?
How wrong you are for my little county!!! Start your prices at around €8,000 for a reasonable one, yes I saw a couple for around the €6,000 mark but they are well worn!!! A quick scan of the Belgian internet sales sites and there are few to choose from and even then of similar ages they are all €8,000 and start going up steeply!!!
Rather than thinking about issues of wiring - before you start I'd be looking very much at the type-approval/legal- taxation- and insurance-issues you are likely to encounter when you want to get your vehicle on the road.
I don't know how aggressive the authorities are in much of Europe but here in the UK there are many obstacles to getting a "bits and pieces" vehicle registered. If you do start on your build, get proper invoices [showing the payment of VAT where appropriate] for _every_ part you use. And check that the engine you use still complies with appropriate local emissions regulations.
I could not agree more for keeping invoices etc, but I am certainly no expert here as far as Defenders go but if I were to build it out of parts but build it to actually be the 90 on the papers then would it need anything more than a new safety test and drive on?
And as far as aggressiveness of authorities, they are completely against vehicle modification. As far as vehicle modification goes, I read(with the great help of Google Translate) on my Belgian forum that Belgium has been hauled over the coals in the European courts for their actions since 2011 with the refusal to register any vehicle that does not have a CoC(certificate of conformity), basically Belgium used the CoC as leverage against imports of cars from other countries where modifying is allowed, they want factory specs and dealer serviced. So now they have had their a55es kicked for it, they have now allowed the import of cars from other EU countries as long as they have had a safety test not older than two months as this is deemed an EEC compliance and is approved in other member states, I have been chatting with a guy about it all and he says that although they "MUST" allow the import and registration that does not mean to say that when the next technical inspection is due you won't have a problem! I have a good friend who owns a car dealership and a great many of his clients choose a car type and spec list and then he has a given time frame to find them the car they want, he sourced a fantastic Audi for one client early last year, only problem being that, Audi did not sell that particular car in Belgium and it was sourced from Germany with higher spec suspension etc, and although a better car with higher specs and safety it was not allowed as it had no Belgian CoC and as it was not actually sold within Belgium, it (under their idealized system) was not allowed to be registered and had to be sent back, utter tripe IMHO but that was the system then, and little indication that the powers that be actually want it to change either.
Oh and I must point out how this system works if you do not know it already? A car must first be safety tested before it can be registered to an owner/keeper, but to get a safety test you must provide them with your CoC and registration documents for the vehicle, when the vehicle has passed inspection you can then apply for registration in your name and will be assigned a registration plate, the plate is for that vehicle as long as you own it and when you sell it on you must return the plate and any subsequent new vehicle will get a new registration plate.
So although they can do a "look over" safety test before accepting it to be registered that is not to say there won't be problems next year.
Hope that makes sense????
But this would not be a modified vehicle as such as it would be built almost as per a factory vehicle just a few updates here and there, or am I over simplifying it?
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could it be doing this because the Oxygen sensors are out?
soooo stressed You need the O2 sensors for the ECU to work correctly, without them the ECU just uses a preset figure as a get you home mode, first thing to do there.
And I would double check by unplugging and plugging back in the MAF sensor as to double check the security of connection.
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Have just been offered the chassis and papers for a 90.
Now, I have never been a Defender fan but since the disclosure that the Defender will cease production in 2015 I have come to the conclusion that it could be a long term cash investment so to speak.
Thing is, chassis and papers are it, nothing else at all!!!
How feasible/possible is it to actually build a 90 from pretty much scratch with only a chassis?????
Cue plenty of phht!! and eeerrrrr comments.
I would add that I am leaning towards the notion that this would mean that the Rusty one does not become as special as I once hoped as he would be the donor of running gear as they are from that period, ie, engine, gearboxes, suspension and axles, could possibly see a rather large chunk of his wiring loom adapted into it too.
So possible or am I drinking too much again
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Sorry to hear the run of bad luck
Good job you got spares and luckily it falls on the weekend and not mid week when you need it
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I was going to do something similar with my V8 Disco when I had it, by the time I worked out the costs for conversion it was just not worth the effort and by doing as suggested with following through the trouble shooting guide the EFI is a basic and simple system, you quote costs as a reason to ditch the EFI but I can tell you that setting up carbs to run properly and efficiently aint no picnic either, and it could just end up costing you way more in fuel than you might realize as you just keep pouring it in when needed and it won't be until you work out how much MPG you are getting you don't see how bad it can be.
I did on my V8 Disco and glad I did, the extra economy and power more than paid for the parts with todays fuel prices!!!
Please do as suggested and work through the trouble shooting manual as HfH put on here and put one thing right at a time.
Although my money is on a worn out cam personally.
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Not sure but I know a diesel combustion pressure can be above 1700psi but doubt tests would be that high.
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It does but TBH it really is not worth the hassle, you need just about everything from the 300 and even then it is not so straight forward as you need air box and blower, and pretty much the loom too as instrument connections are different.
Diff studs
in International Forum
Posted
Got my diff studs the long ones are part No. 561196 and I got 6, need 4 but thought it good to buy spares just in case and 12 new nylon nuts sum cost of buying genuine studs and nuts 30!!! Not cheap but better safe than sorry when I pull it all apart again!