Nigelw
-
Posts
2,571 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
15
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Nigelw
-
-
If you got water as far as the FIP you need to get it flushed through asap!!!!!
Corrosion of the internals will render it needing rebuilt!!!!
As said above, drain and change sedimenter, fuel filter and blow it through with a compressor, then bleed it and see what happens, I had to have a new FIP on my Peugeot van not long ago due to water in the fuel causing corrosion, it did the same, ran after bump starting and would not tick over, hence needing to have pump assessed by specialist who determined the cause for failure, drain and flush tank, fit sedimenter for future servicing and prevention purposes!!
Hope this helps.
-
I have opted for 235/85X16 tyres on Rusty, but now here is a problem with having too much time to think!!! Taller gearing, yes I know one of the first things to consider but having not actually had the chance to drive this thing more than about 100 feet at crawling speed I am not exactly sure if the 200Tdi is going to perform so well? I always had it in my mind that I would fit them but this is an unfamiliar car and I am told that I will want to scrap it immediately after the first drive if I even try to compare it to the V8 Disco I used to have, 200Tdi manual now and I had a 3.9 V8 auto previously, culture shock I'm told!!
Question is, would I be better to swap my transfer box for that of a Defender?
Or should I consider a rebuild kit with correct gearing to suit the bigger boots?
Ashcroft can and will supply all parts for an "at home" rebuild,but what experience of taller tyres and benefits/down falls are there to the bigger wheels?
So post up your opinions/experiences plz.
-
This might be of help to you?
http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/info_K401.html
Good kit and I think I will buy a couple of them too as they will come in very handy I think.
-
Interesting design... I've now completely forgotten what the original reason for all this was? Looking at the picture, I am struggling to identify the problem it's solving compared to a normal 4x4 truck.
That's what was my first impression of the design, but my immediate thought was tidy the Disco up and sell it then save for a 90, I have been thinking about the many ideas and the thoughts from far more experienced builders and yes a million things can be done but I struggle to see any benefits from trying to stay within the build of a Disco? Save for a bigger vehicle than a far more agile 90 there may be some leverage in the lower ground pressure for the carrying of supplies for an overlanding trip maybe?
I wonder still for the swinging bogies from the Boomerang? On a 90 that would be something to behold and then if it were a truck cab it could be fitted with a hi-cap tub to extend over the rearmost wheels and you would have a much bigger load bed, Now there is an idea, start 10" smaller than a Disco wheelbase and end up with a vehicle the same size by the end of it......
-
Here's another way of achiving what I was describing.
[http://www.shinjeong.co.kr/e/product.html?p=isas⊂=isas/url]
It keeps the wheels vertical instead of the swing arms tucking under during full drop.
Drop boxes to the diffs would save having a drive through diff made up.
this is by far the best way with fully independent suspension!!
-
I like the idea of the steamer dieseldog, must give that a try when I get a chance ..... how effective is it?
I doused my engine liberally with the spray bottle of cillit bang and then started from the top to the bottom with the needle nozzle on the steamer and a scrubbing brush, scrub a little and then let the steamer do the rest, the needle nozzle is good but it is not as powerful as those high pressure steamers!!! but then again I don't like them nor the idea of pressure washing an engine as I always worry that the pressure wil push water where I don't want it!!!
I will be doing mine shortly(when it stops freezing) and will try and do a little write up if anyone wants?
-
just want to get all the old grime off my engine (now i've postponed it
leakingmarking it's territory)Corrected for accuracy
I gotta do the same when it stops freezing here but because I need to find out where it is leaking from so I can stop it, can't tell if it's from the rocker cover or the sump it's that bad under the bonnet....
-
Holy cow!!!
Someone actually taking customers serious in these dark days of recession!!!!
Well done.
-
I like the orange bottled degreaser from Lidl, Cillit bang does wonders too.
There was a citrus power degreaser I saw on youtube that they showed being used to clean an engine bay but I have never seen it in shops.
What you looking to clean up Al?
If you have one of those steam wall paper strippers they are great for cleaning up engines and stuff, in combination with cillit bang it really worked well on an old 3.5 V8 I was doing up.
-
I found this whilst surfing the tube and wondered if tuenico would find a few other possibilities from its offerings in terms of engineering?
I kind of wonder if it is feasible to mount a prop to the front of the first diff and have the two axles driven from it, sorry, rambling, just watch and see how the drive train works and get your own ideas together from it....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=g8rW9IybwnE&feature=endscreen
I have taken this thread as a thinking platform for future projects and maybe something from it will be seen in a future build??????....
-
I have a H/D diff pan to weld on this weekend, but for no other reason than to replace a leaking rotten diff pan where it rotted through due to the clamp on guard!!!
I have a cunning plan to get the fully leak proof weld too,will upload pics when I do it,but you are spot on about the KAM diff covers!!!
-
If you have access to a standard shock then possibly take one of yours off to compare of lift the truck to allow full axle droop and measure length that way, unless someone knows axle droop on standard shock and you can compare.
-
Perfect, thanks fellas, for the silly money they are wanting over here for them I may as well buy me a brand new one with warranty to fit!!!
Ralph that link was absolutely spot on!!! They have all the gauges I want and good prices too!! I can buy a brand new speedo and a water temp gauge and have them delivered for the price asked for a S/H LHD TD5 Defender dash!!!
-
Who actually makes it?
And is there an after market replacement that is not a genuine part?
If not, then what is the next best digital speedo to use?
Google and I appear to be having a lovers tiff and is no longer my friend, knew he was a swine and after all the searching I have done with him!!
-
I normally up load to a host like photobucket, and copy image details and paste and hey presto they are there large as life! Also serves as a back up if something happens to the laptop!!!!
As you saw the amount of wiring I did in my car(and still got some to do for the aux circuits too) it is relatively simple but time and patients consuming work!!!
Firstly make sure you have a good soldering iron, pot of flux, solder and two sizes of heat shrink, the thin ones for individual wires but also one large diameter to sheath the whole bundle, make sure it is the resin/waterproof stuff too, all available at Maplins or any high street elastictrickery store!!
Bare the ends of the new cables to be attached and mark the loom so they can all be joined and the whole joint then can be covered with the larger shrink tube, cut through loom slide on the large diam shrink tube and secure away from heat with a bit of sticky back plastic, bare both ends of the cable you just cut through and once all ends are bared back apply the hot soldering iron to the wires one at a time and once hot melt the solder into the wires core so it penetrates right through, this helps make a good solid solder joint as the full core is part of the connection, and then the hard bit comes for putting it back together!! octopus springs to mind but I used a piece of iron and two magnets to hold the wires down in place while I soldered them together, dont forget to slide on the shrink tube for the individual wires!!! once soldered all three ends tube in place and heat to seal, do all wires and tube over and seal the lot.
I know some might say well just bare the wire back and solder into the exposed section but it is hard to get a long lasting waterproof seal over your joint so I don't do that at all but that's just me I suppose.
Best of luck.
-
is there no way to use a rockwell type design and put the rear most diff nose up? I ask as then a PTO could go to a second box and then to the rear axle giving a much longer prop length?
-
Not sure how feasible it is, but a bolt-on HD pan for which you need to cut off the stock pan and drill & tap some holes might be nice.
I can see people wanting to take a look at the diff without taking it out all the way. Plus, easily replaced if it does break.
Now I am liking that idea!!! Would need to be done on an exchange axle basis though I think?
But got to weld on a Steve Parker H/D diff pan next weekend so will be doing some measurements to see if it is possible for me to knock something up for my self but Nige could do it better LOL
-
Good show coachman, I also kept the entire loom from my 300 series V8 when I broke it for parts, and as the bumper is going ont he 200Tdi I will be using the loom and bulb holders to my advantage.
Just a tip, now you know all of your wires are correct, just snip the wires in turn and solder and shrink the joints, trust me, after a year the scotchlocks will fail and you will have to do it anyway!!! I did a lot of wiring on my car when I got it, see here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=79562 as you will see a little bit of wiring went a long way!!!
-
Yuck, horible looking thing!!!
Something better?
-
dd69 - on my '98 Disco chassis its not heavily stamped, but put on with a type of pin marking, so no real indentations that look like figures. Might be worth a closer look. It took some finding and I think I've cleaned the rear one off when I was de-rusting.
Well as I was unable to find a proper identifying mark for the chassis even after a buzz round all areas with the cup pig tail on the grinder I sent it to the great scrap yard in the sky, namely due to the fact that it has been now scrapped in the eyes of the DVLA and that if an inspection by the polizie were to happen then I would be in deep doggy doo doo's for having a chassis with no identifying marks!! Not to fret though, it was cut up in to 2 foot lengths and looked like old box sections so as not to arouse suspition!!!
Shame though, really wanted that for my next project!!
Oh well Freeloader it is then.
-
Yep deffo a market there for a bolt on full diff and flange gaurd!!! I do also think you should do a weld on heavy duty diff pan too would be offered along side full guard for us who like to weld.
It does need to enable filler/drain bungs and prefferably not fill up with too much sh*t, that is my only serious gripe about the bolt on jobbies that are around, they fill up with wet silt and not just from off roading either, I had a diff pan replaced years ago through it rotting through where the salt loaded silt laid trapped by the guard!!
-
As opposed to doing a lot of moving of components why not make life a little simpler and not bother bobtailing or majorly moving the entire drive train and power plant forward and just cut the middle out of the chassis?
that would make fabbing up the back end much easier for the third axle to sit under, and then it would just be a shorter prop needed, the rear axle could follow a live beam axle from a 101 and a through drive from the rear of the disco axle, the 101 axle would make life so simple as it sits on leaf springs!!!
-
Hi Bill,
Your point of view will allways be well apreciated. Your experience on 6x6 is priceless!
Dieseldog, Mercedes´aproach to GammaGoat design looks good. It will be great to make such thing with a Landy and make it road-legal.
In my off-roading experience (limited to 88" Santana and Disco) I have found turning circle one of the most limiting factor in Galician woods.
Mid-axled 6x6 with front and rear steering will give me an excellent turning circle, but I don´t know if i could be able to make it road-leagal and how will it behave at highway speeds. Maybe a lockable rear steering+elevated mid axle will give best of both worlds: excellent off-road capabilities and standard-like road behaviour.
Yes legality will be your biggest dictator but perhaps there is an amateur built SVA* type system where by it could be fully evaluated and tested if needs be?
Just thinking about the lifting of an axle set the idea of using a pair of macpherson air over shock springs and mounting them to the front or back of the bogie system, where by the shock absorbers would dampen the articulation of the bogies and when needed the airbag could be inflated to push either the back or front set of wheels down there by raising one set off the ground, air off and back to 6X6!
I personally think it over complicates things too much with either beam or independent wishbone type axles as you are trying to cram so much into 34" of space from output flange to prop flange to retain 100" wheel base, now if you were to try it with the extra 10" given by the wheel base of a 110 then maybe but still too tight and probably why many 6X6 vehicles don't lift an axle and also why they are always much longer, a 90 6X6 would be a real mission but I doubt very much without using hydrostatic drive whether you could make it work within the vehicles original length, maybe bobtailing is not much of an option either for the swinging bogies as the axle position as it is with the bogies on would probably see the rear most of the quarters re modeled as the wheel will be punching into the bottom of the D pillar!!
Sorry but running out of ideas my end, and especially with wanting to stay within such a tight wheel base!!
*(my apologies for that sequence of letters and by no means am I implying that it won't work blah, blah, blah)
-
Hi Teunico. I'm not sure that it is a good idea for me to jump into this thread, as I have long since abandoned the idea that I could build a 6x6 that would be superior in most crosscountry conditions when compared to my current portal axled 4x4. Anything's possible of course but having given it some serious thought for the past couple of years, such a vehicle would need to have a scaled down version of a Scammell Explorer or road grader type gear driven walking beam type rear bogie to allow for the maximum possible articulation so that the weight of the airborne rearmost axle doesn't become a massive counterweight when cresting a steep hill or hummock. What happens on crests with conventional twin rear axles is that the wheels on the middle axle effectively become the fulcrum of a see saw, and the weight of the rearmost axle,once it runs out of articulation, plus all the weight of the chassis/body rearward of the middle axle centreline pulls down with gravity and lifts or unloads the wheels of the front axle, so that in certain circumstances the only wheels providing traction are the wheels on the middle axle.
The other option I would have liked to have tried to build would be the shortest possible wheelbase 4x4 , but with a powered 'trailer' attached that only articulated in pitch and roll, but not yaw as in a conventional trailer, because experience with powered trailers attached to 101 FC Landrovers revealed that the trailer could push the prime mover on its side in certain circumstances.The result I would aim for would be similar to the prototype of the original Gamma Goat, built in Switzerland by Miel'e if I remember correctly. There was a short video clip a while back of one climbing up and over a wall.
Bill.
I much prefer that idea Bill, although the Gamma Goat will be very old hat now, this is a pic of a concept vehicle from Mercedes
I think this would be much more appealing personally, it could combine the most compact 4X4 and also when coupled to the powered trailer it would be an amazing 6X6!!
Newbie: Disco 6x6 from Spain
in International Forum
Posted
COC = Certificate Of Conformity, basically for you like me a modified vehicles need to retain characteristics from the original COC to meet an amendment of the registration otherwise any radical alterations would need a complete safety assessment of the build and knowing what Spain is like from my mate Ians documents for his Land Cruiser with a bicycle rack suspension upgrade and wheels & tyre swap made it expensive to say the very least and they were trivial things!!!!