Nigelw
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Posts posted by Nigelw
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Sounds like your tyres may be old/have been stored badly.
Usually on the sidewall of tyres there is a [manufacturer-specific] date-of-manufacture on tyres: it could be worth trying to work out what the Michelin code is on your tyres.
Tyres more than about five years old are not usually very good.
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Second that, but sorry not much you can do, sold as seen items at an auto jumble, maybe trading standards but don't get too excited!!!
I just bought some Cooper STT and was sure to check the manufactured date as I know the so called special offers are often old stock they can't shift, but nope made middle of last year.
Good luck if you try to get something back....
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All that is missing is the red stripe down the side and it's the new ride for the A-team LOL
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Don't rule out good second hand one
Miller Kempi etc
new : http://www.migtigarc.co.uk/TIG_Welder/tig_welder.html
Esab, thermal arc and thermodyne are good, and also non invertor - MTA AC/DC 185, 225, 265 Tig Welders
I have used a 225 and it was very nice and stable
AC even more importnat is a good maker as the prices near double.
Consider a watercooled torch with flexible head too, then you can have a lioghtweight small torch thats does thicker stuff than you'd think
HTH
Nige
o_teunico the trouble with those machines is that they are all scratch start and with the ally welding I will need the pedal control, I like the idea of being able to stick TIG and plasma cut so maybe it would be worth a shot in the future?
HFH now you have given me something to think on!!! Spot on with the second hand, I know I am silly sometimes and try to buy new but that is probably my best bet TBH, and I also made a new contact a week or so ago who does disposal of industrial equipment and salvage, they handle a lot of bankruptcy stock clearance and the likes so it is perfectly possible that a visit to their warehouses might yield something? I have an advantage too that I have three phase electricity in my barn and as a lot of the bigger stuff is 3P there will be some good stuff to be had I am sure.
Thanks for the wake up....
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What am I likely to be looking to pay for a reasonable TIG with a foot pedal control up to say 150A?
After an hours practice session I found the scratch start acceptable on steel and was horrified on ally!!! Put it on the pedal and ally went ok'ish but practice needed!!!
This is all in aid of a pet project but what and why would you recommend?
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And then this bomb shell hit me on the 3 O'clock news on Studio Brussels http://news.uk.msn.com/uk/cameron%E2%80%99s-eu-referendum-the-%E2%80%98answer%E2%80%99-is-out-speech-459701
Yeah ok they speak for years to come but if they don't get the ball rolling now it never will come!!!
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I know several people who use or used them. Traction as said is not great in the mud (considering it is supposed to be a mud tyre), but they seem very good on the road, reasonably quiet and certainly well up to greenlaning.
Contrary to some of the comments above I'v heard complaints about weak sidewalls (I saw one tyre get ripped on a rocky slope where BFG MT and Mickey Thompson ATZ and General AT didn't have a problem) and chipping on gravel roads.
For allround use, I'm sure they'll do fine! And there not bad too look at either. ;-)
Filip
Funny my old pal Poppo had a brand new set of Grabber A/T2s on his LC and he ripped the side wall out when we were playing in the sand in the Herentals forest on the way to Eersilingen Bobbejaanland hehe, so not impressed with them at all!!!
I must admit the worst tyres I have ever had were the Khumo A/T things that came on my V8, puncture after puncture with them!!
I am going to buy the STT as they are basically what I want in a tyre and so far I have heard a lot more good then bad for them!! Worst case scenario I buy something else in the future but hey I don't think I will be disappointed some how.
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Thanks for clearing that up. Good luck as the mobile test bed, I think you'll need it
Mo
Thanks for that Mo.
There are other reasons I want to use them too but it is part of a much bigger personal picture for a business idea that I want to bring to fruition within the next 3~5yrs. Parts suppliers are two a penny and I want to know for myself what is good and bad and down right ugly from them all!!! I used BP parts for more than 12 years and never had a problem with anything I purchased, so lets see what happens with the new parts to come.
Oh and if anyone is wondering I will be completely honest in my findings and that will be reflected in whether they were good or rubbish!!!!
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No no not sponsored but for me as a test bed for real life test of parts I want to use from them based on cost and what I want to use my truck for, I want to actually see for myself and if there is a problem then as I have been in contact with them all ready it should make dealing with my problem a lot easier if there should ever be one?
But I the only free stuff I get in this life is sh*t on by other people!!!!
They did not offer and I did not ask, my parts are purchased from Paddocks in the UK and will be delivered by the weekend they tell me.
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Do you have a direct email address for them so we can avoid using the web form and also attach photos of the issues when we have them? A picture speaks a thousand words and all that. Also by using a real email address we get to keep a record of the conversation rather than it disappearing when you submit a web form.
No I used good old fashioned snail mail recorded delivery for my initial contact and then was contacted by telephone, I refuse to use any web form thing for anything as I have automated responses that do not help and often feel that many of them are automatically replied to and never responded to, but that is just me, bad experiences in the past.
Interestingly, snail mail took 3 days to get there and telephoned on the fourth day so can't be too bad for the post boy can it?
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Mmmmmmmmmmmm...like it! It seems that two wheel stubs axles have been mounted in a rocker and then the rocker has been bolted to a single axle casing. Simple and effective.
Independent susp. front axle used at middle of chassis will certainly ease thing: no trailing arms, no A frame, no up-down moving diff that exceeds short propshafts angles...but wheel articulation will be far less than that of a beam axle, and I should find a same ratio as others diff.
Ratios are only ring and pinion sets, you can get them to match the front and back axles, as for articulation, it really won't be that important on the middle axle as it will be more stability on obstacles and terrain, the articulation needs are of the front and rear axles to enable the mid axle to bite and gain traction that will claw up or support you on the wat down, not acting so much as a see saw but I can't see a need for a centre axle to need as much articulation as the front and rear, and also looking at it from the point of view from space needs inside the vehicle, if it has too much articulation you need a faily substantial wheel box for it to go up in to and thus will have very limited passenger/load space as it will be a big wheel box from just behind the drivers seat to the rear door if bobbed as well!!!
For me it would be better tan trying to use a live beam axle in the centre, plus the torsion bars would be nice and close to the chassis without the need to worry for coil spring dislocation. Personally that's the route I would look to follow.
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maybe this principle appeals?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXixfte7ZdU&feature=related
My thought of the independent mid axle was to fit a front axle from an Isuzu trooper or such, where the diff and shaft tubes could be fabbed into the chassis from the back of the transfer box via a spud shaft and then the wish bones would be framed and extend down from the chassis rails, will try to sketch it and show but this would allow a custom through drive to power the rear axle and also the mid axle could be staarable too.....
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Here is an idea, as most seem to be able to type out their complaint in this thread why not send an email to BP and explain to them what the problem was and why you were not satisfied, they can't or won't change anything if they are not fully aware of a problem, yes I know most folk bin the receipts but the supplier will have a record of the transaction and especially if it was an online transaction too.
BP front and rear drilled and grooved brake discs along with BP H/D brake pads making their way to me shortly for a shake down.
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So having struck a deal with a vendor for a set of Cooper STT tyres in 235/85 X16 I am very happy or at least was until I decided to flick through the web for a little look at the reviews for them.
To say this website has about the most wildly contradicting reviews is an understatement!!! http://www.productreview.com.au/p/cooper-stt.html
I now need to ask the ever so more worldly and knowledgeable forum for a little bit of help with this, who has run them? Where they what you were hoping for in a tyre? What if any problems did you have with them?
Please don't be shy, if the review pages had anyhting to do with it I would buy me something different but this is a deal I don't want to miss but would skip if the tyres are not what they claim to be!!!
Thanks in advance.
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I considered rebuilding my PAS box and basically was told not to bother, I will but after I have bought me a shiney new one to fit in it so it won't matter and won't be immobile in the yard either LOL.
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Just an idea but why not use an independent suspended axle in the middle? It would also allow you to have both front and mid axles steering?
At least that would allow you to use and modify the Disco chassis as opposed building from scratch, also it would be very difficult to get all the hardware for a live axle in such a closed space, also you would be able to modify the diff housing and fabricate a through drive from mid to rear axles.
Just another take on it.
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In all honesty (and I'll get flamed for saying this) some britpart parts are actually ok (There! Said it!).
HOWEVER do you want your vehicle to be the test bed to find out which ones are ok?
already am, Have been in correspondence with BP and I am currently working out a deal with them to supply parts for my Disco 1 refurb.
Watch this space to see where it leads.
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Sorry to drag this age old topic up from the grave but......
My shiny new parts are here and guess what, some idiot picked an A frame ball joint less fulcrum and packed in my box, so not really got too much time to faff around and my problem is that I only have a 10T press at the mo as swapped my 20T one for a few weeks to help out a mate who was really struggling with the little one and thinking I had welding enough to do would not need it, a lump of metal removed from eye and a rather sore eyeball and strict advice from nursey telling me no welding means other work must proceed....
having read of forces in excess of 30T needed to press them in and out I am wondering if it would shrink enough if bathed in liquid nitrogen for an hour and the fulcrum slapped in the oven on 220C for an hour would it go easier?
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WTF santas sleigh at £2500 are they having a laugh? No ID!!!! DREAMERS!!!!!
£200 scrap money tops
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http://bit.ly/13LRxRR
Discrete chequer plate.
Now please don't think me mean but I did email this guy directly and asked if it had an SVA, and I am still waiting for a reply from him, I was also very encouraging of his disaster too, saying how I was "impressed at how he managed to mold the chequer plate around the vehicle" and how I thought "there was no expense spared when creating this vehicle" so I am still hoping he might reply about the SVA status, if someone else wants to email and ask that might prompt him to get back to me.
And as for the winch bumper,
who ever dreamed that one up did so with the intention of fitting it to a RAV4, anyone fitting it to a Defender needs putting down!!! -
1.4 More specifically the draft Regulations and Directive would require:
· compulsory testing for all classes including motorbikes and three wheel vehicles;
- increased frequency of periodic roadworthiness tests for old vehicles with a minimum in all Member States of a first test at four years, then two years, then annually thereafter (commonly called 4-2-1);
- improved quality of vehicle tests by setting common minimum standards for equipment and inspectors;
- elimination of almost all exemptions from periodic testing;
- bringing all trailers and all agricultural tractors capable of more than 40 kph into scope of testing;
- subjecting electronic safety components to mandatory testing;
- clamping down on mileage fraud, with mandatory registered mileage readings and a new offence for non-compliance;
- an interchange of electronic information on vehicle inspection;
- Member States to use powers to deal with 'dangerous' vehicles; and
- introduction of a system to de-register a vehicle if deemed to be un-roadworthy.
What do they mean exactly by those two sentences I wonder?
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Hello
Allow me to highjack this tread, I am after the same for disco 2 in order to convert RRC axels to disco 2 arms and I need it for both front and rear.
Redards
Ole.
I wonder if the D2 is a bit new to have things like that made for it? If you could get a picture of a perch from a D2 and compare to the YRM replacement and for that money it may be worth a punt in the dark to buy some and modify if needs be/
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This is a super guide and not just for the D2 either, good work there
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Never had much to do with D2s, what is the function of a "watts" linkage?
Kind of looks like a twin set of panhards with a rotor in the middle or am I being thick?
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Catalytic converter crime is apparently the number one police priority around here.
In this case it's not just some public relations gimmick either .... a few months back I had welded a cracked mid box pipe up one evening and was refitting it at the side of the road about 10 ish at night only to have two police officers shine their torches under the car at me asking me to explain what I was up to
I said this before when it was happening and I will say it again.
The only way it stops is if a cat is stamped with the vehicle it was fitted to's VIN stamped on it and then there would need to be an administration system with exhaust centres to photocopy the registration docs and identification for disposal and the same for garages and then for scrap yards to do the same monitoring of the incoming cats, or is the value that high that it would be counter productive?
I know for a fact that there are certain schemes going whereby some heavy copper cable is now coded and has to be accounted for by scrap merchants if it comes in for disposal, it is curbing the thefts from newer rail and factory installations as thieves are being prosecuted for possession of stolen goods and that's when the investigations begin!!!
300 tdi discovery up grade
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Yep head lining fits the same but watch you don't shear off or round off the screws when removing the sun visors, the lining is fibre glass and foam sandwich and is held up mostly by the trim and a couple of pop in pins in the middle and a ledge at the back which it hooks into.
The lights are a direct swap, not sure if the wiring is in your plugs for the indicators though? But if not try to get the lighting plugs too and solder on the wires from the bumper indicators and job done, funny I am fitting the 300Tdi rear bumper on my 92 200 series to get the same effect.
good luck and let us know how it goes.