Jump to content
If you value this forum's future please support us

walace58

Settled In
  • Content count

    26
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About walace58

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Kings langley
  1. RRC 3.5 efi v8 won't run

    Had something like this last year, on my RRC 94, 3.9. Driving along, then stopped at road works. Engine ticking over roughly, but no response to throttle. It eventually gave up. Towed to my garage, they initially thought fuel starvation, but it turned out to be the distributor, advance retard. LR price £1400! They sourced a ‘chinese’ one, they take it to bits, check all joints etc, then refit, £150! other issue a couple of years back, was suddenly dying whilst driving normally, would then fire, and run roughly. initially changed ign amp as quite old, probably original, then again fuel pump, but that turned out to be more connector issues. Possible petrol issue , vaporising, so tried better quality, highe octane with lass ethanol. Thought of leads, cap etc, but it turned out to be much more simple, the coil!
  2. RRC front spoiler

    My 94 rrc Vogue se has a front spoiler with 3 slots. However the spotlights are inboard by about 34cms of slots on left and right hand side with 3 much longer slots between the spot.ignts
  3. 3.9efi backfiring no power

    My 94rrc did almost the same a few months ago. Seemed to be running perfectly, then stopped at roadworks and the engine was just runnning, but did not respond to throttle. Eventually stopped. Taken to my garage , they initially thought fuel starvation, current pump is 3 or more years old. Turned out to be failed distributor. LR cost is 1400 quid plus, but my garage source after market ones, take them to bits check all the connections for dry joints etc, ignition amplifier had to be moved as originally with coil. All good now, cost 150 quid!
  4. RRC Rear Springs

    I have a 94 rrc. Air suspension failed, and after much replacement of parts, eventually reluctantly opted for britpart replacement coil springs. Car is level and ride OK, but when towing back too low despite optimising noseweight. One option is to fit stronger springs, but I am advised that unladen and now towing ride would probably be horrendous. An option may be to fit the rear centrL assisted as fitted to earlier rrc, which automatically compensated for load. This worked fine on my previous 84 d reg.. Does anyone know whether the 94 still has the necessary fittings/ bolt holes etc to fit one, and where an assisted, assume second hand could be obtained?
  5. Range rover classic brakes

    Bowie, Yes. My front discs overheated, because of the underlying problem, as they were taking most of the load of braking
  6. Range rover classic brakes

    Have you checked the ABS components etc, why are you assuming it is discs or pads? Sure change brake fluid as it should be changed, perhaps annually, although in Lebanon probably not so much chance of it attracting water! I would suggest getting the whole system checked out as that found the problem with mine
  7. Range rover classic brakes

    I have a 94 Classic, vogue SE. I had the overheating problem in the Lake District a couple of years ago. Almost total failure up near Kirkstone Pass, but luckily enough room to miss oncoming car!I had also had a few problems with the ABS which we thought we had cured with a new accumulator I had sourced from the States. Disc pads recover after overheating so we decided to change the fluid. My son works for the LR independent that looks after the car and was given the task. Found during the change that fluid was not getting to all the pipes, rear traction control etc. Traced problem back to Wabco ABS master cylinder, which unfortunately is not serviceable and none available. So overheating was due to only front discs and possibly one rear working or less! So garage fitted Dicos servo assisted, basically only needed new disco master cylinder and pipe work, very neat job, and brakes been brilliant for over 2 years, just had to get used to the fact that the travel seems to travel a bit further as previous brakes braked quickly but never snatched. Would not know the difference after a few months
  8. RRC 94 Sticky door handle

    I have a RRC94 and had this problem on my rear near side passenger door. Did as Bowie 69 suggested but no improvement. If you put the window down and lift the knob that goes up and down, can you open the door normally with the outside handle. I understand there is a detent or spring in the latch mechanism that wears or loses tension. Tried lubricating with spray oil (although handbook says do not oil!) Did not help, so had to have a new latch fitted.
  9. Not locked out

    Rereading you post, it appears you unlocking solenoid is not operating. You need first to access the solenoid and see whether any power is getting to it to see when you activate the unlocking. Then work backwards or forwards from that.
  10. Not locked out

    My 94 rrc had half the problem you have in that on unlocking the button did not come up far enough to release the lock. Oiling of the mechanism was tried, but they are not supposed to be oiled. It would always lock ok . I am told it is a detent spring in the mech that has weakened. Need a new mech to clear the problem.
  11. 93` RRC 3.9 V8 "barn find"

    Could be the starter motor is jammed as if lights dim it could be drawing power. The old method with smaller cars was to rock the car or push it backwards and forwards in gear. however if you get underneath it you may be able to get a small spanner on the end of the starter armature and see if it turns. Or perhaps the solenoid to engage the starter is drawing power but jammed
  12. Please view and comment.

    Rebel Eddie, why are you asking for a comment on your own listing?
  13. RRS door locked

    I only have 1994 roc so do not know what the mechanism is like on the rest. I had the same sort of problem recently. The door progressively got worse opening even though the central locking seemed to be doing its job. However lifting the manual push/ pull on the door just gave the lock the extra bit to be able to open the door. It seems the unlocking spring in the lock had lost a little tension. Needed a new latch mech.
  14. Just seen this topic! I had the same sort of problem, but it drained batteries overnight, every night and destroyed them as they are not made for deep discharge. The identified problem was the air suspension timer relay not releasing after it's timed period and giving a continuous 1amp discharge. initial fix was a switch in the power feed to the eas ecu, but one had to remember to switch it off and on! permanent fix was to change the timer relay.
  15. My apologies now realise this article is the inlet filter for the Air suspension compressor. Confused by the fact that the new shape of the fuel Flap actuator access panel is not reflected throughout the manual. walace58
×