[Recovery point location]

I am trying to find a good place to fit my recovery points as they had to be moved from their position in front of the chassis rails on the bumper when I fitted the nudge bar. I now need to get them mounted somewhere, so is there any other place on the bumper that they can safely go? I understand that the strongest place would be in line with the chassis rails, so would putting them either side of the outside edge of the bull bar mounts be too flimsy and bend the bumper forwards if it was under load? I also thought about putting them inside the bull bar mounts where the number plate currently is, so it shouldn't be so easily bent, but again, if it's not safe I won't do it.

Someone with some experience of how to do these things properly care to share some advice with a complete novice?

To show where the points were and now where the bull bar is mounted:

Sorry off the point a bit but what is the air scoop on the bonnet for cooling /air intake?

[Leaky main gear box]

Ted seals are just paper gaskets

dead easy

Yeah I apprecitiate that, thanks white90

from looking at a tech archive that Mr Les put on here, its easy enough! But i can't understand how ATF oil can escape from under there(or can it?) As in the thread(picture) by Les it seems to be dry as a bone when the covers are off.

You'll have to excuse me I trying to understand where the leak is coming from. I know its the top area of the gear box?

Cheers Ted

[Leaky main gear box]

You shouldn't really be using that stuff in your gearbox, you know. You will get a better gearchange and longer life from a specialised MTF oil.

(unless your gearbox is actually an automatic )

Well you live & learn!

The manual says ATF Dextron IID, and I think Ive heard people saying that on this site, but I will now look out for the MTF stuff!

Do you know what to expect from replacing the seal under the gear levers (Sticks)?

Cheers Ted

[Leaky main gear box]

Just a fast trick how to find it:

Take digital camera and pull you hand all around the gearbox from bottom. Take few random pictures from different angels.

Simply, you can put your hand where your head does not fit and the camera can be your eyes.

I find mine this way. It was all the way at the top of the gear box. The seal under the gear-stick housing brake off.

Also, if you see the oil forming under the car after you have driven it a bit, but the spot does not get any bigger at the morning - the chink is above the oil level.

Brs,

Tomas

Hi, Tomas

If the leak is the seal under the gear stick housing, how hard & whats involved in replacing the seal as I have never done this job before & can't find anything in the manual?

Thanks ted

[Leaky main gear box]

Ted,

If it's been serviced recently, check that the gearbox hasn't been overfilled.

Mo

Nice one! I'll be checking that ASAP. Going to take the floor out this weekend and inspect! if it hasn't been overfilled!

[Leaky main gear box]

Just a fast trick how to find it:

Take digital camera and pull you hand all around the gearbox from bottom. Take few random pictures from different angels.

Simply, you can put your hand where your head does not fit and the camera can be your eyes.

I find mine this way. It was all the way at the top of the gear box. The seal under the gear-stick housing brake off.

Also, if you see the oil forming under the car after you have driven it a bit, but the spot does not get any bigger at the morning - the chink is above the oil level.

Brs,

Tomas

Thanks, I've a feeling that this is where mine is coming from, I have felt around the reverse light switch and this seems dry, about 7inc to the left of the reverse sw theres a threaded stud with a slot in the end for a flat head screw driver that goes into a plate and this seems to be dripping! But not sure if it is coming from here!!!!

[Leaky main gear box]

Reverse light switch?

What makes you say reverse light switch? It is definitely from the main gear box because its the red ATF fluid! But for some reason seems to be coming from the top half of the gear box!!!!

[Leaky main gear box]

Day out in the city today,( We saw Asimo the humanoid robot that Honda have developed, really good for the kids) managed to get a underground car park that we would fit under 2.3mtr's. Good day out for the kids, but upon returning to the 110 I noticed (with the clean concrete floor)that there was a fare bit of oil underneath I checked it out and it is coming from the main gear box but from the little time I've had to investigate it it seems to be coming from the top half of the gear box! Any clues as to where to start looking? And possible causes!

Thanks Ted

[rear hub seal or stub axle seal?]

Usually the hub seal but don't worry as this is a very quick, cheap & easy repair.

When the hub is off check the stub-axle to make sure it isn't worn otherwise you might find it happening again quite soon.

Tip:- Check the axle breather isn't blocked as this can force axle oil past a seal that would normally remain oiltight.

Hi, just wodering if you know anything about the front hub seals as the picture of oil leaking down the back of the brake disk protector looks similar to whats happening to my front wheel!

[How tight?]

.... or even those with a sunny beach to work on !

Mo

Just had a word with the garage and they were very good, told them that if it was up to me I'd do the lot, but as the bank manager is a bit merchant! I can't!

They said that the bearings need attention as there is no record of when they were done last, (if buying, check service history as much as possible!) The annoying thing is they could of been done but there's no record!

Also the tappets. Other than that they are going to give me a heads up on what is desperate! fingers crossed!

I wish I had a garage to work in and not gravel that eats nuts & bolts!

[How tight?]

IMVHO, The first things I would do, are those that are likely to cause further problems.

You can live with weeps for a while, once you keep an eye on oil levels.

I'd sort the steering play first as it is anything from annoying to dangerous on camber changes etc.

Then the wheels bearings. One dying on you, can be anything from inconvenience to catastrophic at 70 on the motorway.

Tappets next, as incorrect setting can lead to burnt valves etc.

Then the remaining bushes and weeps.

(I've been driving round for far to long on knackered radius bushes. I always find something more important to do, and can't find the time to get to my man-with-a-press)

Thanks for that, I just wish I had the time to do some of the things on the list! It doesn't go down well if I tell the wife and kids that over Christmas I'm going to be under the car throwing spanners about!

[How tight?]

How hard is it to renew the rear pinion oil seal?

I need to renew it, as its leaking/weeping, but like anything its getting time to do the job, I saw a tech archive on it that was really good by Les, but he did warn to get the right torque setting to tighten the new flange nut on completion!

How do I find the right torque setting for my diff. The Landy's a 110 1996 300Tdi

Only its going in for a service next week and I'm pondering whether to get them to do the job and leave all the stuff I can do until I get chance

This is the list of items requiring attention

1 Three steering tie rod ends have slight movement.

2 Steering pitman arm ball joint slight movment.

3 Rear A frame ball joint slight movement.

4 Inlet manifold (weep).

5 Rear diff pinion seal (weap).

6 Front radius arm bushes worn.

7 Sump gasket (weep) & possible rear main oil seal weep.

8 Engine oil cooler inlet 'O' ring.

9 Tappet adjustment.

10 Wheel bearing repack.

11 recommend injector clean service & diesel tune up.

Now don't get me wrong I only want whats best for the rig but the last time I looked in the mirror I didn't see Donald Trump looking back! (Thankfully )

I know a fair bit of this I could do myself with help from the good souls on here! but I rarely have the time!

What would you do first if you had a list like this?

[glow plug]

Sorry to here this mate! happened to me on a Isuzu engine simple 2 min job I even bought a torque wrench to do the job right! In the end I drilled it out, it wasn't pretty, the glow tip fell in the the head but I took the injector off and managed to get it out! with some help from a friend. Used a Dremal drill like I said it wasn't pretty! Just enough thread to get a good grip for tyhe new plug.

Ted

[OEM v Poly]

Funnily enough I have been thinking of going back to OEM bushes... I have managed to destroy the panhard road polyurethane bushes on my 90 twice in 10 months... from two different manufacturers. To be fair I have not tried proper Poly bush ones... not got the wallet for it.

Anyone tried proper Polybushes and how do they compare with the other manufacturers? (yes sorry I know this has probably been raised elsewhere... )

Shrek

Is there a tech article on this? Or is it as easy!!! as taking bits off panhard & such, replacing the bush and putting it back on! sounds simple? how long to change them all?

Thanks for the info , from whats been said I think I'll be going with the OEM bush's

[OEM v Poly]

Hi, Changing the bushes on a 110 is there a tech file on it, does anyone know whats involved? Whats the best bet all round OEM or part poly part OEM which on which?

Thanks for any info

[part #'s]

wash/wipe stalk --- prc7370

indicator/main/dip/horn stalk --- stc439

there ya go t

Thanks!

[part #'s]

hi,

I need to send for a 1, indicator/horn/high beam switch & 2, window washer switch. For a 110 defender 1996 vin #SALLDHMF7TA989340, Australian import! Does anyone know the part #'s

I think the indicator jobby is STC439

Thanks for your help.

Ted

PS, COME ON ENGLAND

[TDC]

I did mine recently on a 300Tdi I must admit I didn't even bother with the T.D.C and all went ok. From what I understand its just to ease the instalation of the new one. It makes screwing the bolts up easier. I was advised to change oil and filter before installing the pump, don't know why but did it anyway.

Mike

Just renewed mine Thanks for all the help everyone! Brakes are as good as new.

a big thanks to island4x4, for getting the vaccum pump to me in quick time, ordered 9th Oct delivered 19th Oct, all the way from little old england to oz.

Cheers again!

Ted

[Indicator stalk]

Geez, I bought a late model one this morning for R360, I reckon that is about 90 AU$?

Not from a stealer, of course.

Yeah I know, this isn't a main dealer as well its just the local independant! I need a vaccum pump for the brakes and they wanted 450 AUD, I ended up sending to the UK for one that is costing me 290AUD postage included. I just can't work it out!!! I have to wait seven to ten days for it though! You can't have everything?

[Indicator stalk]

Old switches tend to do this. There is no fix apart from fitting a new one. They are quite cheap if you get from a non-LR place. The electrical connections are different from the old to new ones, no change otherwise. We used to always fit the old type as they were much cheaper, though you have to solder all the connections which is a pain. Nowadays the prices are about the same.

Yes I was thinking that it was warn, my LR stealer wants 150 dollars for a new one, I don't mind paying a bit more but I think thats taking the p++

cheers

[TDC]

I did mine recently on a 300Tdi I must admit I didn't even bother with the T.D.C and all went ok. From what I understand its just to ease the instalation of the new one. It makes screwing the bolts up easier. I was advised to change oil and filter before installing the pump, don't know why but did it anyway.

Mike

Cheers Mike,

Eventually some that has done the job, can't understand why you would change oil and filter before though

[TDC]

Confused by the question.

You just need to remove the inspection cover on the pump, and lock the pump with an appropriate sized pin - a 9.5mm drill bit.

Yeah! Not as confused as me!!

I have to change the vaccum pump on my 300 Tdi defender, to do this it states that the engine has to be put at TDC to free the vaccum pump? I asked the Q that if I turned the crank until the pin went into the grove on the fly wheel, I could then take the vaccum pump off! Without taking the cover off the injection pump cover and putting in a 9.5mm drill?

Simple really i was just trying to cut corners!

[clutch]

This thread is how to replace the clutch fork on a 300TDi Defender. The method is exactly the same to replace the clutch by using the gearbox out method - you just need to undo 6-more bolts.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=5010

Les.

Thanks very much for that! I'll have a good gander.

[clutch]

Hello,

If replacing a clutch on a 1996 300Tdi Defender. I'm sure I heard somewhere that its easyer to remove the engine? I would have thought that removing the gearbox would be the way to go?

Cheers Ted

[TDC]

Surely all you need to disturb on the aircon is the belt tensioner which replaces the above mentioned plate. then it is just a case of turning the engine till the pin (drill bit) will go in on the pump and the engine will be at TDC. Change vaccum pump, remove pin replace tensioner anf re-tension and the job is done.

Pete.

Thankyou.

I was just being lazy & trying to cut corners! which seemed to make sence?

So I need a new gasket for the injection pump housing, & how do you drill the blanking plug?