tedsmart
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Posts posted by tedsmart
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As said the ball joint takes a lot of force to get the old one out and a new one in.
Best bet is to take the joint of then take it to al local garage or machine shop and get them to swap the ball join over for you, saves a lot of hard work!.
Getting the tapper out from the axle casing is often a bit of a job as well. The best way I have found is to remove the split pin and nut (30mm normally) then belt the joint with the biggest hammer you have to shock it out, last time I used a 9lb sledge hammer, a 1 lb lump hammer just didn't do it. Ball joint splitters aren't normally large enough or up to the job.
Just bought a 10 ton press to do the bushes & the ball joint, has anyone done this job and if so what size press did you use?
Doing the job tomorrow, so here goes.
Cheers Ted
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What engine have you got Ted?
Bearmach stuff is the best in my opinion - even better than genuine.
The 300TDi timing belt kit is about £70, and then the seals are about £7 more.
They don't do a 200TDi belt kit - due to the differences between the defender and Disco, but in general the 200TDi kit is about £20 cheaper.
It might be worth ordering the parts from over here - postage shouldn't be that much - the whole lot weighs about 1/2 kilo and Bearmach send stuff abroad.
Les.
Sorry, 300Tdi 1996.
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Hi all,
Just trying to gain some info on ordering a Cam belt renewall kit. Which kit will I need as my defender is Australian import the vin is SALLDHMF7TA989340. Cause its along way to send the wrong part.
I can get the kits from here, I had one price without the two seals and it was 380.00 dollars which is around 180 pounds, can you belive that! He did say that it was the good kit and not the cheap one with spot welds that come unstuck!!
Thanks Ted
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I know, 20p each!? Just as well the rate I'm going through them. So, did that, and replaced the relay, and now the fuse only blows when I indicate left. Still makes a squeal. Have re-read Mr. Haynes and will try and borrow circuit tester/voltmeter (and 'a grown up')
Cheers
Jon
Can I borrow that grown up when your finished!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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No - it'll just bend the tabs over. The two bolts are just there as a precautionary measure - in case the ball joint comes adrift. They do not really take any kind of load once the joint is pressed in. It sometimes takes an awful lot of pressure to get one in, so you need a beefy vice to do it. You can make it easier by heating the housing up and putting the new ball joint in the freezer for an hour. The housing will expad with the heat (making the hole bigger), and the ball joint will contract - therefore making it easier to fit them together.
Les.
Theres more to this than meets the eye?????????????
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You can remove the old one by belting it out, but the new one should be pressed in (bashing it with a hammer is not a good idea) Use the two M8 bolts to keep it in line and press it in either in a vice or bung the local garage a tenner to press it in the housing for you.
Les.
Cheers for that I thought they looked hard to get out! So if I'haven't got a press, a vice will do? if I got longer bolts and tried to draw it in would that work?
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if they are both old, do master and slave at the same time, if you don't, which ever one you leave will imediately start leaking..
Cheers for that!
The first job is to renew the Aframe bushes and ball joint if it is knackered or replace the rubber boot if not! anyone taken the ball joint off? I would like to know what suprises are installed for me!!!
Cheers Ted
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Hi All,
I intend to change the A frame ball joint ( if when I take it off to look at it its worst for wear, as the rubber boot is all split) and while off renew the A frame bushes! Theres a tech archive for the bushes but not for the ball joint, it seems farely easy, but having never renewed one before has anyone got any advise?
I'm preping my beaut for a trip to Fraser Island in July so want it all in good shape! (if thats possible) I also have to service the Cam belt and I'm looking at renewing the seals in the Slave & Master clutch cylinders, as theres black stuff at the fluid level, in the resevoir! I did this on a 109 ex military soft top that I had 12 od years ago, but I'm abit rusty now, so any advice would be greatly received!
Cheers Ted
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I've never heard of rotating a seal. The problem might not be the seal though - do you have any play in the swivel bearings? A new seal is only a fiver and you can split it rather than other work.
Les.
Whats the best way to check if the swivel bearing are ok? Pull and push in the 9-3 oclock position, or 12-6? and what movement is ok?
Cheers ted
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Hi, all
The swivel seal seems to be leaking abit I was thinking of loosening the seal retainer on the back and spinning the seal 180 degrees to see if I can prolong its life!
Do you recomend this or not ? also is it worth putting one shot in it? The leak isn't too bad.
Cheers Ted
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I resently changed the belt on my engine (my first time) and it was a breeze. Mine was out of the truck at the time so it was that much easier. Just follow the instructions and you'll be fine.
Brett
Thanks very much for that lads. I'll give it a go
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Tech archive?
Les.
Thanks for that.
The trouble with me is I tend to read in to things too much, and get lost in the detail or lake of it I have read the archive several time , and it does seem very straight forward!
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Hi all,
I want to change the cam belt on my Defender 300Tdi, having never done one before has anyone got any tips for me, all would be eagerly read?
Thanks
Ted
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Hi all,
Are JATE rings/hitches good enough for snatching a vehicle out of soft sand?
Cheers
ted
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Cheers will look tomorrow as its late now, can't say as I've ever seen the fan work???
well I've found the problem/the auto electrics garage did anyway. Turns out it was the condenser fan, thats the fan on the front of the radiator for the air con, should have checked it really but didn't think it would be something so easy!!! While I'm thankful that they have identified the fault the price they wanted to charge to mend it means I'll not be using that dealership again 650 dollars, as far as I can see the fan bolts to the front of the radiater with three small bolts, so how hard can that be to renew!!!!
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Look at the top hose. Where the alli elbow comes out to the top hose.
There's two thermo switches there. Well there could be. If there is take the wires off and see what happens. They control the aircon fans in front of the aircon rad to stop over heating when it's a little warm.
mike
Cheers will look tomorrow as its late now, can't say as I've ever seen the fan work???
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I'm looking at a Manual which says its for a later year, and for the V8 engine (is that what you have?) but the fuses appear to be for the blower and the radiator fan, as well as the compressor clutch. Clearly, from what you say, the blower and the clutch are operating, but what about the radiator fan? I'm thinking you would only notice it's absence if the engine got so hot the condensor failed to work and an AC pressure switch broke the circuit for the compressor clutch.
HTH.
Its not the V8 but the 300Tdi 96 version but its an import to Australia so dont know whether the air con was an after thought or standard LR????
Yes its under the passenger seat.
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Hi everyone,
Does anyone know anything about the wiring for the air conditioning unit on a 110 Defender 1996?
I have one that seems to work fine! But when I was tinkering about with it I noticed that there was a blown fuse on the electrical relay system under the passenger side seat ( where the battery is) the thing is, I changed the 15amp fuse, all was well but when I turned the air con on and the clutch for the air con kicked in the fuse blew!!! but the air con seems to work perfectly well, I mean its never going to be climate control ha ha! But to me it seems quiet effective.
Does anyone know what this fuse does!!!!
I have now got the fuse to hold in! But the wiring is getting fairly hot, so taking it to an auto electrician asap!
Still don't know what it controls? the air con may be blowing slightly more but hard to tell! May be that my head is stuck against the vents as I'm measuring the load its pulling!
Anybody any clues to what would cause this? I've cleaned the earth connections(scrapped the paint off and tightened)
Cheers Ted.
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Hi everyone,
Does anyone know anything about the wiring for the air conditioning unit on a 110 Defender 1996?
I have one that seems to work fine! But when I was tinkering about with it I noticed that there was a blown fuse on the electrical relay system under the passenger side seat ( where the battery is) the thing is, I changed the 15amp fuse, all was well but when I turned the air con on and the clutch for the air con kicked in the fuse blew!!! but the air con seems to work perfectly well, I mean its never going to be climate control ha ha! But to me it seems quiet effective.
Does anyone know what this fuse does!!!!
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Hi folks,
I need to import an alternator from a UK supplier to ZA. Would J Craddock or Island 4x4 be trustworthy suppliers of OEM spares ...... any suggestions about quality price etc would be appreciated.
Also anybody with experience ....... do I pay the VAT in the UK and ask them to courier 7,5 kgs to me or is it better to do the proper import thing via letter of credit ...... and pay VAT when it arrives in ZA ?
Cheers
Wikus
I used Island 4x4 and I live in Australia they were cheaper & very prompt service it was here in seven days very good service.
don't know if this is helpful to you.
Ted
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I got a set a couple of years ago from Famous Four in Louth. They really transformed the truck and the lift was perfect for me.
Had a bit of trouble before xmas trying to find some 1"lift springs with a higher poundage tho, the back of the truck had started to sag. I have ended up with a set of HD springs and 1" spacers on the rear, the front is fine.
I was thinking of putting the spacers on and HD springs! Did you have to renew the panhard rods & rear trailing arms for off set ones? To stop the vibration that I was told would happen if I put 2inc lift on my 110!
Cheers Ted
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I got a set a couple of years ago from Famous Four in Louth. They really transformed the truck and the lift was perfect for me.
Had a bit of trouble before xmas trying to find some 1"lift springs with a higher poundage tho, the back of the truck had started to sag. I have ended up with a set of HD springs and 1" spacers on the rear, the front is fine.
I was thinking of putting the spacers on and HD springs! Did you have to renew the panhard rods & rear trailing arms for off set ones? To stop the vibration that I was told would happen if I put 2inc lift on my 110!
Cheers Ted
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Just bought a Panasonic Toughbook 27
Question is how tough are they? Will it be able to withstand the rigours of being mounted in the Rangie whilst off roading?
The standard gumph is
My key concern is the hard drive, yes its in gel, yes it can be dropped 900mm but is this when powered off? Will the heads go crashing into the disks when offroading?
Hi,
We use them in the trucks at work and believe me if they survive the daily rigoures of our job they should be well at home in a off road Range rover. Bit fidley to operate though. We have them mounted on the back of a fold down seat.
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Merry Christmas All
Merry Christmas all. Even though its Boxing day here! We are off on a little trip around the Glass House Mountains in a bit! When the kids get
A frame
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Thanks to all that put thier pennys worth in!
I have done the job now so alls well, it seems to have stop the knock when I take up the drive with the clutch! So if anyones wondering what that clunk/knock is it could well be the A frame ball joints worn!
It wasn't that bad a job but having ramps or jacking it up would allow more room, it was very tight, and undoing the upper link bolt to the chassie was very tight and getting the bugger back in needed some ingenuity with a bottle jack at an angle!
The advise to cut the ears/tabs off the old ball joint was invaluble thanks!
it was also difficult starting the bushes off with the press so I found that starting it off with a lump hammer was the best way!
Cheers ted