Jump to content

matfield

Settled In
  • Posts

    127
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by matfield

  1. I'm almost finished the conversion with fully electronic 606 and merc 5speed auto, and it would turn a standard r380 to playdough in minutes at full throttle. Gazfab has a lot of great products, and takes a lot of the hardship out of the conversion, but the 722.6 merc box is worlds ahead of the zf. a lot of the merc guys fitting sprinter flywheels mill down the lip on the flywheel when using the c270cdi 6 speed manual box in merc conversions, might be a better option than taking it off the bellhousing
  2. Hi Lads, Can anybody tell me the thread on the high pressure inlet pipe for the 4 bolt defender steering box. Its a 14mm spanner to remove, but I need to know the thread to get a pipe made up. Thanks Mat
  3. Did your gauge not come with a little copper tube an olive and a brass 'nut' to attach to the back of the gauge? Mine came with these, and 6mm nylon tubing fits over the copper tube, and the olive seals it shut against the back of the 'nut' Mat
  4. It depends if you have a PSI or BAR gauge, the fittings are different. The BAR gauge is M12x1.5 and the PSI one is 1/8NPT 27tpi as far as I can remember, but I can check them outside tomorrow.
  5. So would I be better to keep the drums, and 10 spline front? Can a 4 pin diff centre be fitted to a 10 spline axle? I don't need/want alloys, and the drums are properly set up and work fine.
  6. Fair enough. The gearbox is built to handle 800nm but I doubt it will ever get near that. I reckon pegged 4 pin diffs will be fine. What's your experience of halfshafts and cv's?
  7. Yeah... I had thought that. The drums have to go either way. What kind of Nm are you running through the Salisburys?
  8. Not worried necessarily, just thinking ahead. The rear is a drum braked Salisbury, so I wanted to swap for disks, and 24 spline front and back I thought would make for better parts availability, and more upgrade potential. Where would I find a Salisbury front, they're like rocking horse carp I heard.
  9. Ok... It will be almost 95% on road, with some moderate towing. No trails or comp safaris! I understand the power/torque difference, just curious of people experiences with standard axles and when the felt the need to upgrade, and why. My plan is to change to 24spline disco axles, reinforce the rear, like the puma, and then go for 4 pin diffs.
  10. Hi Lads, For those that have done engine conversions or remapped the newer LR engines, what kind of torque do the standard Land Rover axles hand, I have a salisbury rear and 10 spline front, but wanted to get opinions on 4 pin rover diffs etc. and also when power starts to become an issue for OEM halfshafts and CV's. Thanks Mat
  11. Great... thanks for the quick reply! Mat
  12. Lads and Ladies, Does the Tdi oil pressure switch ground when there is no pressure, and the light comes on, and when pressure is reached, kills the ground, and in turn the oil pressure light? Thanks Mat
  13. I'm wiring up a starter circuit for an engine with an auto box, and want to make it only start once the brake pedal is pressed. I'll just have a relay before the start switch, switched by the brake feed, then the start switch can fire the starter relay, to the solenoid. That makes sense in my head anywY
  14. Perfect... I'll have to use a relay then, triggered by the switch. Thanks again! Mat
  15. Hi Guys, A very simple question; does the Defender brake light switch ('93 110 CSW) switch to earth, or is it the live feed for the lights, or does it go to some kind of relay? Does anyone have a wiring diagram? Thanks Mat
  16. No worries, If any one has it, or can draw it up I can send beer tokens via PayPal if needed. Cheers Mat
  17. Sorry, I'm looking for the lt77 --> extension housing flange, with the outer flange bolt pattern in relation to the mainshaft hole.
  18. Hi Guys, I need to get hold of a CAD drawing of the mid plate from a LT77, with the outer fixing holes, and the main shaft hole as the datum. I hope that makes sense! Any questions just ask, or links would be great. Thanks in advance Mat
  19. I always thought they were pricey, but having exhausted all other avenues for power improvement, and more importantly, power delivery, I found it really did make a huge difference. I'm not in anyway affiliated with any of the suppliers, but pound for pound this made the biggest improvement. Just to clarify, I had also had the head ported, full width intercooler, and reached the limit on the standard turbo before heat output became a disadvantage to the amount of pressure. It all depends what you are trying to achieve, and how much work you're willing to do.
  20. VGT: variable geometry turbo VNT: variable nozzle turbo No difference, just a different name for the same thing
  21. Ok... my 200tdi 110 has had a VGT turbo fitted for almost 10 months now, so I'll give you my 10p. The difference in drivability is remarkable. It turned what was a 23 yr old engine into something that drove with all the power and width of power of a much more modern engine. It didn't make much difference to the power output of the engine, more to the useable power, and the ability to use the full gearing. I have a 1.2 tbox, standard diffs and 265/75 bfg AT's, full length roof rack, so the weight isn't exactly small. I'm also running a full width intercooler and one of those boost pins. The boost pin made a difference, but more of a difference was made from adjusting the pump to take advantage of all that early boost, and ability to almost eliminate black smoke below 2000rpm, while having the same torque that was available above 2000rpm. Between the VGT, intercooler, and pump adjustment It is very drivable, and EGT's are all within very safe limits. With regards to the pump adjustments, I spent a long time trying to get the widest power band possible, and in my experience, the boost pin, with minimal resistance on the star wheel spring, and a very small increase in the max fuel screw gave by far the best results with the VGT turbo. Hope that helps. Mat
  22. Hi Guys, I'm looking for measurements for the exhaust manifold/turbo flange, the distance between the three bolt holes/studs. Thanks Mat
  23. As far as I can remember it's as far as the rear mount, but there's only about 5-10mm between the rear mount and the output flange, the rear mount being slightly further back.
  24. Also... If you're looking for max torque and unmodified bolt up to the 606 you'll need the box out of a c270cdi. Mat
  25. The 722.6 is 670mm from the bellhousing to the rear mount/output flange. This was measured on an 1998 e300td. Mat
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy