matfield

TBH... we (me and machine guy) looked at the manifold and thickness and went for the welding threaded stub option. Mine was a VDO gauge and sender and came with a stub. The manifold 1. isn't that thick and 2. is cast so it will shatter like glass if not handled correctly. We did look at threading the manifold but where 2 and 3 meet its not flat (tubular and curved) so threading and getting a seal would have been a nightmare. I really wouldn't recommend drilling it yourself (my man is a tool maker and had a workshop and machinery to die for) and still we really had to take our time getting it right and lined up and drilled correctly. Back to removing the Turbo or not; the great thing about the 200tdi manifold is that the holes for cyl 2/3 are directly below where you are going to be drilling for the sender and if you make sure the inside of the manifold is dry all shards/swarf should drop away. Mat

A friend had the madman... he'd fitted an Izusu 2.8 to his 90 and found it invaluable!! Where were you thinking of fitting the probe?

I did this exact thing about 2 months ago so I'll fill you in on my fk ups so you hopefully don't do the same 1. Remove everything on that side of the engine, not connected to the engine; airbox, washer bottle tank, as much intake piping as possible etc. 2. Take off the 5 13mm nuts on the downpipe, it will make taking the exhaust off a lot easier, and if you can (mine was stainless so might have been a little easier then yours) undo the exhaust at the mid box to give you a little "jiggle" room. I didn't have a 2nd flange connected to a flexi pipe, and it also meant that blowing back through the turbo will be a lot easier in point 5 3. DO NOT touch the oil return at the turbo... it comes off easily but is the biggest pain in the rubbish to get back on. Take off the 27/28 at the sump... it will just pull straight up. Also make sure you keep the oil feed pipe AND the banjo bolt clean........ very easy to get dirty and a huge pain in the jaxie to have to take it all off again to clean them or worse still replace the turbo! 4. The 17mm bolts going into the head will all come out as normal apart from the two directly behind the turbo so remove all the others apart from the 4 at the top of the manifold; have the far left and right loose enough to hold the manifold so that it slides/falls back as you undo the two nuts, giving you more room as the manifold falls back to keep undoing them, removing the far left and right bolts as you go. 5. You don't need to remove the turbo to drill out the manifold, just make sure you clean everything and don't turn the compressor wheel until you have blown air the wrong way through the turbo (from wastegate to manifold) to clear out any shards before you put 13 psi through the running engine and again break your turbo. The reason I say don't remove the turbo is I did and managed to shear one of the flange bolts, and it was a pain in the arse to remove and get back on and the guy in the machine shop told me after that he could have done it with the turbo on the manifold!! If you have any other questions just let me know What EGT gauge did you go for? Hope that helps Mat

If you were going to go down that route I'd get some nylon webbing (from a £4.99 school bag or such (cut and seal the end with a lighter)) and rivit it to the door frame and the bulkhead so you'll save the hinges if the wind happens to whip the door out of your hand... or you have a passenger with not so much common sense Just my 2 cents Mat

That seems to me to be a lesson in how NOT to tune a diesel engine...... Daan... that does sound seriously sus when he lifts off.... or it could be one of those exhaust whistlers you get in Halfrauds Any more updates on slapping this engine into your defender ~ (thats me drooling btw!) Cheers Mat

Or greedy.......

What year is the vehicle?

I've read both of those conversion threads Western, very informative!! I was really looking for some confirmation of my own opinions, that it was something you wouldn't want to do for the same reason you stated above, the weight rating. Out of interest, what is a disco axle rated to?

So... was told today that someone had put a 200tdi disc braked discovery axle onto a 110 with drums, it fit, with some small spacers (not sure where they were as I didn't have that long to ask questions) I'm wondering whats the main differences, is it just that the salisbury axle casing is stronger or are there different diffs in there? Thanks in advance Mat

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Way-Blade-Fuse-Box-Positive-Bus-in-12v-LED-WARNING-Kit-Car-Boat-Marine-Trike-/180817893827 What about this......... just to add a spanner

If all the pipes seem fine and the actuator is working correctly I'd probably say its the manifold gasket. Mine was completely burnt through between cylinders 2 and 3 at the bottom... Had the same symptoms as you ( didn't have the gauge at the time!! My one piece of advice... Take the turbo oil return off at the sump... 28mm... Getting it back on at the turbo is an unbelievable pain in the hole!

*Not that it needed to be confirmed mind

I fitted a vdo gauge to my 110 last week and I can confirm what Retroanaconda said, on the drive it will just about reach 10psi (about .6 bar) with the manual boost controller fitted and adjusted. At full chat in 4th at 3000rpm I'm getting a steady 14psi.

Insulating tape.......................... (I'll get my coat!)

Just a thought..... Were you welding recently? Could have fried the BCU? Another stab in the dark but every little helps

Sorry That space on the odometer is the indicator for the auto box... Mine was an auto as you may have guessed!. Dunno why it would be lit for a manual but someone far more qualified will be along shortly to correct me

Is it an auto...? If it is check that the selector knob is seated correctly... (put it into neutral and pull it up while pressing the button, it should come up, then sit it back in the hole to line it up and give it a knock with the palm of your hand.) It should sit in, then put it back into park, turn off the ignition and try again. If that doesn't fix it, Put it in Park, get underneith and on the passenger (left) side of the box there is the selector lever, undo the nut (think its a 13mm) and move the selector all the way back and forward (it will click into each selection from P down to 1) then tighten the nut again. See if that helps. If its a manual.............................. put some insulating tape over the odometer. With regards to the central locking..... no idea... maybe just coincidence, but check fuses etc first

On a D2 they are right next to each of the hinges under the bonnet. Big lumps of connectors with thick purple and yellow (I'm using memory now so correct me if I'm wrong.) wire coming out of them. They're not actually that hidden at all

Put the relay trigger wire (probably from your full beam circuit) in parallel to pin 85 on each of the 3 relays. You will have 2 wires going into the connector for pin 85 for the first two relays, and the last will only have one, like a daisy chain.

This might help... http://www.diagnostic-world.com/pages/discovery_series_2_dash_lights_207001.cfm Mat

I'd go for it... If I had the cash it would be the first thing I'd buy... and like you say, If you get it after you've had it remapped you're only going to have to have it done again!

Remap won't help when you bulldozing though....

28mm on the sump undid with a slight "anti" nip... undid by hand and had the pipe on the turbo and refitted to the block and sump within 3 mins!! Don't know why I didn't do it that way in the 1st place.... anyone taking the manifold or turbo off... whip off the 28mm on the sump..... 100x's easier!!! Thanks for all the hints guys... much appreciated as always! Mat

Think I'm going to have to do that... I was hoping to not have to, seen as I've spent so long trying to get this one back on but I'm getting no where. Is it as fine a thread on the 27mm as there is on the 22mm below the turbo or is it a regular thread (and easier to re-thread?) There doesn't seen to be a whole lot of room near the 27mm on the sump, is there a good way of getting it off? Is it just a nip over hand tight like the one above or am I looking at something more serious? Thanks Mat

Hi Everyone... I'm putting my 110 back together after fitting the Raptor Dash and EGT, Boost, Tach & Voltage gauges, and fitting a Td5 dash. I have everything back in place, and I'm ready to take it for its first drive..... but I can't get the 22mm oil return feed pipe onto the bottom of the Turbo.... I've tried with the manifold bolted up, with it loose but still "hanging" on the studs and also with my brother holding it and adjusting the angle to hopefully get the thread to bite but it won't. No matter how I try it, going anti clockwise first to hear the "click" there is nothing. I've checked the threads and they seem to be fine, both have threads up to the end and aren't mangled. If anyone has any hints or ideas please let me know... I've been trying for 5 hours now and its about to get a thump from a lump hammer!! Thanks Mat