matfield

A head unit it basically the box that you have all the controls on, put your cd's in, plug your ipod into etc... Speakers can be plugged in in two different ways; either using a seperate amplifier unsing the line out function on the head unit (Usually a lot more expensive and a lot more than most need for simply listening to the radio and playing their own music) or using the built in amp on the head unit, usually ranging from 45w to 60w depending on the unit you get but well able to put out enough sound with the right speakers to be over heard in any landy. The most important thing is to check if you have and ISO connector (rectangular with 4 terminals wide) there is usually two if them either as one block or two separate connectors, one one for power and power related functions, and the other for speakers as below: Wiring it up really isn't a huge issue and can be done in about two hours with the right equipment and a small bit of intuition if the connectors aren't there. As others have said... take a pic of all the connectors behind your rear windscreen wiper switches and let us see whats there and then people will be able to direct you a little easier. Hope that helps Mat

I'd go with sony or kenwood... had both and never had any problems. Great volume and if you head to halfords you can always pick up a bargain on either brand and you won't be disappointed on quality. My last two were sony, one specifically for the disco with green backlighting and one with blue (had the specs I wanted but not the colour and for £65 I wasn't going to argue) for the defender, both had rear sub out (surprisingly useful on the defender with its tiny speakers, a rear sub for £60 can really make a difference to sound quality without looking too shopping centre car park at 9pm.) and usb in (either memory stick or iPhone/android phone) and 1/8" jack for those other devices you might have and cd player. Don't bother with alba as others say... you'll only end up replacing it within 6 months. Hope that helps Mat

How does a divorced/remote transfer box actually work... Still trying to get my head around it Mat

Well Vinny... When you replaced the Throttle pedal is there any chance you got a different one to the one you had, there are 2 way and 3 way ones. Those readings weren't much different to what I was getting from the discovery, and that had the 2 way TPS. Mat

First thing I'd check would the Immobiliser transponder, it wraps around the ignition barrel and senses the chip in the key to disable the immobiliser, and also the battery in the key. I'm guessing its an Auto if the M&S lights are flashing. The M&S lights flashing indicate an electrical problem with the Auto box, and in the manual recommends sending it to a dealer to be plugged in but first I'd check the fluid level and see if that fixes the flashing lights. It happened to me with my Disco when there was a very small fluid leak. It could be that the two aren't even related. If they are related it sounds like you have a chaffed or exposed wire somewhere in the look causing a short........ either way I'd be checking those first and praying you don't have to start chasing wires!!! Hope that helps Mat

Can't comment on the LT77 box fitting but I would say with 35" muds you're going to find it very hard to accelerate in anything above 3rd gear unless you're at valve popping revs. I fitted a discovery transfer box to my 110 with 265/75 16's and it made a difference to top speed but its really left me needing to change gears a lot around town, and I have a full width intercooler, raised the boost and adjusted the pump. Hope that helps Mat

Waxoyl anything you can get the gun into, including the bulkhead, I've seen a friends 3yr old 110 with signs of bulkhead corrosion already coming through the corners next to the dash. BTW, where in Dublin are you, I'm in Tullamore! Mat

If you know the vehicle, its structurally and mechanically sound, and you've already paid the premium for it, I'd stick with what you have. Adding a 200tdi is only going to add to its appeal and lets face it, you bought an Ex-MOD for a reason in the first place. If its going to cost £1,500 to have a 200tdi fitted including the engine and you know the engine is good, I'd be going down that route. The worst thing you could do would be to sell your nice, sound Ex-MOD and buy what looks like a decent 200tdi standard Defender, but end up with a crock with a decent engine that will cost a LOT more than £1,500 to get up to spec. I know, I got stung with what looked and drove like a decent 300tdi 90 and turned out to be a money pit!! Then again, if the Ex-MOD is showing signs of age, the chassis is starting to melt away and you're not sure its going to last too long, that changes everything Mat

I tried putting the pump back and it made no difference... still doesn't go above ~72mph. I'll fill up for as I usually do for a couple of times and see how I get on then, if that doesn't make any difference is the consensus that it is more than likely the lift pump or am I missing something else? Thanks Mat

70mph reads 2800rpm on my slightly over reading VDO (didn't adjust the grub screw ) The fuel filter was changed about 1,000 miles ago with an OEM, good quality filter, and only filled up with Branded garage fuel... but as I was typing that I remembered that I filled up in Holyhead (I'm just onto the last 1/4 of that tank now) in Tesco........... hmmmm Not too sure now...

Hi Guys... Quick one for you, mainly to confirm my theory, but maybe to prove me wrong I hope I readjusted my Injection Pump on the 110 this evening as I felt there was a little too much smoke and not enough power considering the frankly massive intercooler I fitted, and the gains promised from said fitting! The good news is that the power "curve" has improved greatly, with midrange (~1800-2500rpm) power coming through a lot smoother and boost coming on a lot quicker with less smoke than before. The question I have is this; before I readjusted the pump, and had less power overall, I could easily get upto 80mph (on the speedo not sat nav) in 5th on the flat and, downhill, without any issues. After I adjusted everything, it got to 70mph (on the speedo with 1.22 transfer box) and would not go any further, downhill, tail wind, on the flat, it didn't matter. Thats at 16psi boost, and fuelling adjusted to just below the smoke stage at full throttle. My theory is that the Lift pump my be on its way out, and is delivering as much as it can (the EGT's didn't rise once they got to 650*c at 70mph 5th gear either, again making me think that there just isn't any more fuel getting in) It's a standard 110 CSW, apart from the transfer box, I'm running 265 75 BFG A/T's and have a patriot rack fitted (but 80mph was reached on the motorway before any readjustment to the pump was made with all of the above fitted) Do people think its the lift pump or should I tweak one of the adjustments on the pump a little further? Thanks Mat

If it was me I'd go with the genuine or at least OEM as well... unless I was going to fit relays for the headlamps like Mike (mmgemini) did... in which case there should be no issues with melting switches and terminals Glad it all worked out for you... the Haynes wiring diagrams can be "interesting" to try and decipher with their colour codes but black and white schematics!

The exterior lamps, apart from the flash, all run through that switch (green arrow) before going to the indicator stalk switch as Western said, also no relays so after a while the current melt stuff

You can test it if you want but TBH its more than likely going to be that shorter switch that Western and Anders are talking about, with the symptoms you have described. PRC3430 is the P/N http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/9796/PRC3430-MASTER-LIGHTING-SWITCH.html?search=PRC3430&page=1 £11+vat Hope that helps Mat

I have no idea. There's no mention of the sump being removed before that (thats the whole rear crank oil seal change section from RAVE) and it only mentions it there. I didn't take off the sump when I did mine and all worked fine. I'll wait to be corrected though It should just go on as it comes off, just mind and make sure that plastic guy doesn't come off as you'll damage the mating face of the seal when you go to push it over the crankshaft without it.

The Rear Oil Seal is actually fairly easy once you're in there. Getting the flywheel off is generally the hardest part, but with the windy gun you should be fine, failing that place something between the teeth on the flywheel and the block... once you don't shock the flywheel you should be fine. This should help..... http://s1129.photobucket.com/user/matfieldlra/media/ScreenShot2013-08-14at220719_zps6c3d44e1.png.html'>

Drain the oils and spilt the transfer box and gearbox before you drop them... they're about 16 stone together dry and very unevenly weighted. If you're doing it on the ground you should be able to move the transfer box back and prop it up with axle stands and some sturdy wood, and depending on the length of your hydraulic pipes, not have to drain and bleed that system. I've done both, on the ground with an engine crane and on a 2 post lift with 2 hydraulic gearbox stands and a brace across the seat box to hold the tbox up and on the ground was a LOT easier, safer and much much quicker. Taking the box out is the easy part....... putting it back up with an engine crane above is 100x's easier than having to lift and wiggle and push it from below! Also, when you're doing the rear crank oil seal DO NOT remove that round piece of plastic in the middle thinking its going to get in the way and why on earth would they put plastic in the middle of the crank oil seal.............. (you probably knew that already but I made a tit of myself so no one else should have to ) Mat

Yours of course will be covered in muck, grease and leaked oil, not be brass coloured at all but a dodgy shade of grey/black and if you even so much as try to remove one of the cables it will snap off immediately!!

I have 4 of the metal sections already The doors are original '93 and the rust goes well beyond the hinges. I've seen the youtube videos and they're not too bad but the ones he's repairing look a LOT better than mine Thanks for the advice though Cheers Mat

I'm in Ireland actually... but I have lots of contacts in the UK and can probably arrange transport or even courier. PM me with a price if you are willing to sell What kind of condition are they in? Cheers Mat

Driving to work yesterday (aprox 3 miles) The front passenger door decided it was going to open itself 6 times. I replaced the lock mechanism and that didn't help, what also doesn't help if the fact that the door is completely rotten and help on by one hinge Anyway.... seeing as they are now in such a state of disrepair (the bottom fell out of it this evening) I need to either have them repaired or get some new ones... Does anyone have any experience with getting them repaired or who would you recommend to buy new ones.... I'm not even mentioning second hand as rocking horse carp and hens teeth come to mind Any suggestions etc greatly received! Mat

You should also go round and slap his head

Not that you should have to be doing this after paying that amount to have it reconditioned but if the bolt at the side of the selector housing isn't adjusted properly it will give these symptoms. When I replaced the housing and Bias spring on my own one it would go into 5th and move back towards the centre and Reverse was hard to get but if you adjust the bolt on the Left hand side (as you are looking at the rear of the box) I think its a 13mm with a locking nut also; you should be able to eliminate all of this play. It says in the manual how to do it, but from memory I put it in reverse and adjusted until it wouldn't come out then backed off until it would go in and out freely. 5th should also sort itself out by doing this. The nut restricts the amount of play in the selector housing to the right and how in turn how far left it goes before the gate from 5th to reverse opens. Again I'm doing this from memory so please feel free to correct me. Mat

I'm gonna go with the obvious one, but did you try changing the batteries in the fob? Mat

I can understand not wanting to let the bodgers at it!! The mechanic I went to was great and outright said to me that he wouldn't touch it but did put me in contact with the guy I used... rare for someone to be so honest!! Ref the probe... with the 200tdi manifold its all tubular so you're going to find it very hard to get somewhere flat to drill and "turn" the probe to the ideal location. The flattest part we could find, or should I say the bit with the most metal, was in the V between cyl 2 and 3 right below the turbo flange but again, that really was in quite a harsh V. Unlike the 300tdi there's no EGR plate/blank to drill straight and tap. If parts are that expensive down there I really would recommend finding a good engineering/machine shop to secure it on a pillar drill/lathe to get it right... you know yourself, you only really get one shot at it! I wasn't there for the welding... but he did have a TIG rig there... from what he said it could also be arc welded if done properly. The annoying thing is that the place on the manifold to get the best reading, and the best flow is also the place where there is the biggest curve/V but ironically is the easiest to drill and weld as you have the most surface area.