matfield

Ghound is a genius with a welder... I've seen some of his repair work on his threads here in Ireland and its truly amazing... If he can't do it in steel no one can. If you're looking for a replacement bulkhead you could do a lot worse than to drop him a line anyway!! Just my 2 cents Mat

Hi guys... I'm breaking my Td5 discovery with 155,000mls and just wondering what the engine's worth... looking at ebay the cheapest one seems to be around £750 which seems quite high but if thats the going rate I'm happy out.... Opinions etc... Cheers Mat

Good call... I'll give that a go... how much should you pay for a 22mm spanner?

Here's the question... I have a '99 disco 2 outside that I'm breaking and my 200tdi defender sitting on the drive getting some minor upgrades and general service and seal up.... Will the gears from inside the disco 2 transfer box... the 1.2 quiet ones, fit inside my 200tdi's standard 1.4 transfer case with difflock still working etc and is it a big job to switch the internals around? Thanks Mat

Thanks a million for a the help lads... 22mm it was and it was a complete pain in the arse to remove!! "cracked" it with the spanner and ended up using a pair of pliers to slowly undo it.... 45 minutes!!!! I'm really not looking forward to putting it back on... does anyone have any hints or techniques? manifold on first, last... I removed the washer bottle to get the spanner in. Cheers Mat

Sorry... EGT.... fat finger slip It is the nut above no.19; VB... my one has a steel braided hose running down to another steel pipe, with I'm guessing another 22mm nut at the bottom into the sump. I'll see if I can get a 22mm spanner from a friend... there's not a whole lot of space to swing it though between the heater matrix, washer bottle and inner wing! Any one have any other suggestions to take it off... Cheers Mat

Hi Guys, Can anyone tell me the size of the nut on the bottom of the 200tdi turbo. I'm removing the manifold to have it drilled and tapped for an EGR sender and I'm all ready to take it off, only for that blasted nut....... Thanks a million Mat

That makes sense Where I'm stuck is matching the corresponding wires from my 200tdi loom onto the new loom of the td5 dash The Haynes Manuals don't have colour diagrams... I know they're labeled but they're not in colour like RAVE... does anyone have the colour diagram for the 200tdi? Thanks again guys Mat

Sorry Western... its been a long day so I'm probably not explaining myself particularly well... I have the entire dash, with gauges, warning pack and all looms intact; imagine someone took the whole dash off from behind the wheel, pulled it out 8 or so inches past the grey connector, and then cut ALL the wires: gauges, warning panel, illumination.... everything. Thats what I have to work with hope that clears it up a little Mat

Thanks Western... I have both of them Bookmarked for reference Question for Retroanaconda; did you fit new connectors because you didn't have the whole loom or because it was a better way of doing it? At the moment I have both male and female grey connectors at the end of the dash loom, and I'm not afraid of solder and heatshrink Mat

I never thought of the Haynes Manual.... I've looked at both Retroanaconda and Western's threads and I'm going to be stealing a LOT of useful information from them, the main difference though is that Western didn't have, or chose to remove the standard loom and connector, which is a good way of doing it, but I'd prefer to keep the stock one there, just for ease of removal... I had my 300tdi 90's dash off more times than I would like to remember trying to fix wiper issues and fitting the Raptor Dash so for simplicity I'd like to keep the stock connector Thanks for the reply... I'll try amazon for the Haynes Mat

As above chaps... I have a Td5 dash, with the connector and aprox. 10 inches of loom. My question is does anyone have a wiring diagram for the td5 dash and also for the 200 tdi 110 csw dash so I can compare/contrast/figure out what colour wires are the same and which are different. I have RAVE but it doesn't have the 200tdi one; plus I was hoping someone on here would be able to look at the same time and correct me crucial mistakes Thanks in advance Mat

I always found a hammer and some patience worked great I like the idea with the hinge though... Might give it a go next time! Mat

Check the fluid level... mine did that every 2000 or so miles when it had a vvery slow leak. Technically the flashing lights indicate an electrical fault and needs to be brought to a dealer but check the fluid first, after that I'd be pulling the electrical connectors off and giving them a squirt with some electrical contact cleaner and then I'd look at the XYZ switch (correct me if thats the wrong name but its close) Hope that helps Mat

If the crossmember were to be removed and this fitted and the replace the crossmember? Just thinking out loud without having actually looked under mine so apologies if it seems like a very stupid thing to suggest Mat

Sorry... I was posting that mainly for the image and measurement ...

That'd be why I couldn't see it in RAVE then M

The throttle pedal would generally be slightly lower than the brake and clutch; suppose its so you don't press the accelerator while braking in big boots, but the clutch and brake pedals should be at the same height. It could also be that your clutch pedal is lower than it should be, in which case you're back to square one The clutch pedal should be 140mm from the level part of the foot well to the bottom of the pedal: Hope that helps Mat

Is the brake pedal a long way up compared to the clutch pedal? They should be at an even level. I know that the clutch pedal height can definitely be adjusted and seem to remember the brake pedal can be also.... Feel free to correct me though. Might be worth checking it out before spending money on steering wheels and seat rails Mat

I wouldn't use a farm jack for anything but farm use... Seen too many of them fall over, simply from a gust of wind; and because you are lifting the body, not the axles, they have to lift to almost the height of the suspension articulation. Get a good bottle jack and a 2" deep by 8-10" square block of hard wood and you'll never be stuck! and more importantly AXLE STANDS!!! A friend was recently seriously injured when his jack gave in and came down on his thigh... Farm jacks look cool on the back of a defender but they're too dangerous in my opinion for anything but a last resort.... and twice the price of a decent bottle jack Hope that helps... Mat

Well here it is... few little niggly bits to fix up but apart from that its fantastic. Took it on a 180 mile trip to Dublin yesterday and it was faultless!! Fingers crossed all goes as well from now on Mat

Sorry Steve.... getting there but the front doors sadly weren't galvanised the rear ones are if I remember correctly though. Thanks for that advice re the galv and further protection. I think I'll keep an eye on it for the first few months and keep it clean and then during the summer when its dry and warmer I'll throw some schutz and waxoil or dinitrol into the doors, bulkhead, b pillars and inside of the chassis and see how I get on then. I'd heard the 200tdi was fairly bullet proof and the previous owner serviced it very regularly so I'll keep that up with good quality oil and filters keep the fingers crossed from there Would there be much benefit in tweaking the pump? and would the benefits out weigh the detrimental effect it may have on the engine? If it were to do it I'd be looking at increasing the boost to 1bar and doing it properly, as opposed to just throwing more fuel in and hoping for the best. Thanks again guys Mat

Hi guys, I'm fairly new around here, I've been lurking for a long time and have owned a 99 td5 discovery passenger; that my mother now drives and loves, and a 97 300tdi 90 hard top; which bit the bullet and has been eaten by the rust worm. The reason for my post is that on Wed I'm going to be collecting a 1993 200 tdi genuine CSW 110 with a Richards Chassis, new bulkhead, galv b pillars, galv seat boxes etc and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions/tips/hints/experience with the same vehicle and/or the 200tdi that they'd like to impart. I'd consider myself a reasonably competent, but very meticulous home mechanic, and have no problem trying something once. A small round up of the vehicle along with the above; new timing belt, waterpump, head gasket and all anciliaries changed last year (aprox. 4000 miles ago) recon gearbox and transfer box. New HD steering bars and Track rod ends, new UJ's on the props, A Frame Ball joint and all suspension parts replaced with original spec LR items, and a full soundproofing kit on both sides of the bulkhead, think its fatmat, but not too sure; it covers the footwells and transmission tunnel anyway. My plan for the vehicle is to keep it as original as possible with only modifications that will either add value or add to the usability of what is already a very capably truck. I'll be adding a Raptor dash, with my CB, Stereo, wiring for spots, roof lights & rear work light, upgrading the headlamp wiring with relays and fuses and adding a 12 bay aux fusebox with ignition live switching for all the add ons. After that I'll drive it for a couple of months and see what else to add. Is that anything should do to extend the life of the engine, gearbox or even the galv chassis... is it worth painting or waxoiling it? Thanks in advance, Mat

Would you post to Ireland? Cheers Mat