=jon=
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Posts posted by =jon=
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I know what you mean - they seem to suffer on certain road surfaces. I tend to notice it on damp roads, especially if there's spray - they just don't seem to light the road up that well. But on other roads, in the dry etc they are very bright...
I wonder if it's to do with the colour temperature of the light being very white/pale compared to normal lights. My point of reference is an imported subaru that has ridiculously bright HIDs though - not sure if it was fitted with higher power units in Japan but they light the road up like nothing else I've had!
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I think with HIDs if a european supplied car comes from the factory with them, they need to have self levelling and headlight washers in order to be UK legal.
Fitting aftermarket ones to something like a defender is a bit of a grey area - if the beam pattern and adjustment is OK then I think you are alright, but because the light reflectors aren't designed for them the beam ends up all over the place and you dazzle other road users. Nearly all factory HIDs use projector assemblies which have a much more defined beam cut off...
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If you know someone with a Costco card they have very cheap batteries in there as well
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It seems everyone rates the skytag units...
For the cheapy ebay systems, are there any UK PAYG deals that either don't expire, or can be kept alive for a reasonable amount of time if it's communicating with you via text every now and then?
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Hi All,
Been thinking about adding some form of tracker to my pride and joy - what's the current recommendations with regards to the cheapy systems you can get from ebay (now for about £15!), or doing the job 'properly' and getting a commercial tracker such as a skytag (which is about £125 assuming the offer is still valid on landywatch?)
Just after some thoughts before I splash out my hard earned... I'd rather have a decent solution and pay a little extra than something that will fail at the most vital point!
Cheers
Jon
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Does removing it not make your feet cold then ? If not it makes you wonder why they have it there! I definitely like the idea of more warmth around my legs.
I didn't notice a lot of difference to be honest - but the air seems to flow out more into the cabin than getting lost in the footwells... For 2 mins and a couple of phillips screws it's worth trying
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I was thinking that you could drill some more holes in the heater box somewhere that clears the control rod and flaps - so I would imagine above and to the left / right of where the existing flaps are..
Ross - have you still got your heater box off the landy to more easily be able to check where could be suitable?
Jason - if you have some that would be much appreciated, if not they aren't hugely expensive
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Hi All
I was idly wondering if it's possible to improve the cabin airflow in a defender - I've already taken off the lower plastic air-guide-vent-thingy which results in a lot more airflow around my legs.. I also tried turning it upside down so the air blows towards me but that ended up with me having freezing feet!
From what I remember the lower dash is basically hollow with the hot air in it - has anyone tried putting something like:
inset into the airbox? So you could open it and angle it towards the occupants for a bit better air circulation, or shut it off when not needed...
Thoughts?
Cheers
Jon
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Welcome
Whats your budget? And what's the intended use - for pay and play sites, competitions, recovering people stranded in the snow?
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@old hand, that is a very good diarrhoea, will try that before swopping to switch.
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I fully opened the flap in the heater box then disconnected the bowden cable at the switch end - now the standard fan switch slides nicely with very little resistance and it's much nicer to use
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From another non-LR forum:
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/just-had-my-land-rover-stolen
Looks like they broke in, snapped the steering lock and towed it out of the car park of a busy Lidl behind a white transit in broad daylight
Fairly worrying really as a lot of the electrical countermeasures would have been totally useless
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Swapped the brake servo over the weekend - mixture is now spot on at about 15.2 at idle
However swapping from petrol to LPG just after setting off to work this morning resulted in a very loud bang and blowing the IAC valve hose off...
Not sure why as it was switching over fine before, and switched over fine again later!
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Cool - thanks
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I found similar - too low and they aren't that impressive, but adjust them up a small amount and all of a sudden they seem a load brighter!
Is anyone else noticing condensation/mist inside them after having them turned on for a while? Mine have a tiny bit of mist on the insides of the lenses after they have been running for a while - guess they were assembled somewhere humid and it's condensing on the inside of the lens now its cold outside...
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My brake servo started hissing ominously on the journey to the station this morning - so I have a feeling there is a vac leak there that's chucking the idle mixture way off.... :-(
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Wideband is about under the front passenger seatbox, along with the closed loop controller sensor. It's probably me just not adjusting the gas pressure enough - did some more research last night online so will have another play when I get a chance...
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Had another fiddle today - wound the manual 'power valve' all the way out. Disconnected the stepper when it was under lean condition (ie. fully open).
I still can't get it to idle with a decent mixture - according the wideband it's at about 19:1. It ticks over fine, but obv isn't right. Under load it's fine - cruise it's at about 15:1 which is somewhere close (stoich on gas is 15.7 I think), under hard acceleration it's in the 14's.
Will have another play with the main gas pressure next time - the idle pressure screw didn't seem to make any difference when I was playing
All a bit trial and error really - I did manage to get it to properly backfire and blow half of the pipework off earlier!
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That sounds sensible.
You should have the Bigas manual and the Tinley setup instructions in the paperwork i gave you.
I found a few bits and pieces relating to the LPG but no bigas manual - I did look
Bowie - Tinley said that the closed loop stepper would work OK with the BLOS, so it should be OK once it's set up - and to get the stepper to fully open then disconnect it while tuning..
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Perfect - thanks for that...
There's two screws on the vaporiser, one appears to be idle, the other appears to be the main tension. There's a closed loop controller fitted which also has a stepper in the main gas pipe, along with a manual adjustment valve...
When you set it up initially at 3000rpm - was that under no load, or driving?
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Did some more tinkering over the weekend - with the advance curves as above the LPG map is very similar to Zoltans. If anything his is a few degrees more advanced at higher revs...
Also got the BLOS carb fitted. Managed to get it setup, ish - at idle it's still very weak (AFRs of 17-18 or so), and it's lean at cruise, but flat out it richens up to low 14's, high 13's. The BLOS is at the limit of it's adjustment though. Am I right in thinking that I can richen up the idle via the adjustments on the vaporiser, and the overall mixture via the valve in line with the gas pipe? My thinking is that as there's a set of adjusters on the BLOS which weren't there before on the cooker ring, I can add more gas flow at the vaporiser end, and limit it back at the BLOS end...
Anyone know control which is which on a Bigas M84? I think the idle screw is the smaller one at the back, and the larger screw shouldn't be touched (diaphragm pressure?), but I can't find any decent instructions anywhere...
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Sorry for the lack of updates, work has been busy recently... I asked Tinley - they said they don't have much experience of MS with LPG, but suggested something along the lines of:
Hopefully I can get some time to have a look at see how it runs with a map similar to the above compared...
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How big is it and whereabouts in Ireland?
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bodumatau: That's where my alternator is at the moment, on the LHS of the engine (references from being sat in the car)... I'm looking about swapping it to the RHS
4.6 converter between a 3.9 engine & autobox?
in International Forum
Posted
Out of interest, is that in front of a standard 4HP22?
Ashcroft seem to suggest that for a 4.6 or larger you need uprated box internals - but I think that may be them covering themselves for someone using it in an 'extreme' fashion, rather than normal usage...
I'm considering sticking a 4.6 in and not having to uprate the gearbox internals would save me a fortune