=jon=
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Posts posted by =jon=
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I've tried a couple of different stations, and have been doing it just like in the video posted above, so something's not working right... I've not changed anything on the LPG filler either! Very weird!
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Robert - I've done exactly as the video suggests, but it's almost as if there isn't enough clearance on the bayonet nubs to allow the collar to rotate - even with the lever folder fully back the collar won't twist..
If stacking an adaptor is the easiest way, then that's probably what I'll do, at least it's a cheap fix
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Hi
I know there are a few people with LPG on here, so I was wondering if anyone can shed some light...
I've got a recessed bayonet filler on the 110, mounted in the side of the body, similar to:
If I use the LPG filler guns that look like a 'normal' petrol filler, everything is fine.
If I try and use the lever action ones similar to:
(With a long lever that rotates with the barrel)
No matter what I do, it will never engage, and I can't figure out why, it doesn't seem to be fouling on anything. It's almost as if the bayonet fitting in the 110 is too shallow so it can't engage. Obv. this is very annoying as it limits the number of stations I can use considerably!
Any suggestions? I did wonder if I could get another bayonet fitting and screw it into the adaptor thread and see if that worked, but that's a bit of a bodge... eg.
http://www.lpgshop.co.uk/uk-w21-8-to-uk-bayonet-w21-8-filling-point-adapter/
Any suggestions or should I give someone like Tinley a bell?
Cheers
Jon
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I'll let you know when I have the times sorted out...
As long as you do the prep well it will look a lot better than it does at the moment - the previous owner paid about £200 for the whole spray job, so I think it was just blasted over the top of the yellow that was already there, with minimal sanding! Explains why it's not that great around the edges!
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No problem Adam
I'll likely be down at my parents at some point in the near future as we are going to be doing yet another transfer box swap before my hols. You are more than welcome to call by for a cuppa, the 110 is megasquirted already and the setup would be reasonably similar...
If you just went with spark to start with it would actually be pretty easy to do - and can be swapped back to dizzy control in about 5 mins so easy to tinker with...
Great to hear it's getting a respray BTW - that's the only thing that really let it down! Are you sticking withe the NATO green satin & black? How far are you taking it - inside and out?
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I found this:
http://www.offroadelements.com/offroad-elements-anti-theft-headlamp-security-screw-kit/
Does anyone know the size for the headlight panel / lamp mounting screws to see if I can find something similar in the UK?
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Thanks everyone - looks like I need to get myself some security screws and some light guards!
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Hi,
After the deal I posted a while back for the cheap Trucklite LED headlamps, I now have a set waiting to be fitted...
However - as they are fairly easy to remove with basic tools, I was thinking of ways that I could make them a bit harder to pinch:
Security screws - not sure how much use they would be - by the time they've got to the headlight mounting screws they've already taken the grille off, and if you used enough brute force you could possibly bend the flimsy retaining ring and remove the light that way. Security screws on the outer surround may work, but it's just plastic so if you were determined you could probably snap it...
Headlamp Guards - this might be a more secure option, but it appears there's loads of different types, from blue box cheapies all the way up to £400 odd! Fitted with security screws they should add a bit of theft protection... To complicate matters I have the larger NAS style indicators / side lights so some of the guards may not fit...
Any other suggestions?
Cheers
Jon
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Adam - I still have the majority of the bits to megasquirt it - a V6 EDIS, coil pack, trigger wheel, VR sensor and the throttle body injection unit (plus a spare bare one TSD gave me to mock up with) - all you'd need to add would be a megasquirt...
If it's a route you want to go down I'd be happy to keep them for you, and prob lend a hand too!
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I can't comment about 3.9's, but I've just swapped a 1.2 for a 1.4 on my megasquirted 3.5 v8, with HP22 auto and 255 85 tyres - with the 1.2 the auto box wouldn't lock up until 57ish mph, and it was right in a torque well (2200rpm ish) - so it'd change into top then fall on it's arse... Given a flat enough road it would slowly pull it's way up to 70+, but it didn't seem happy, and it would drop speed on anything more than a gentle incline...
With the 1.4 it will happily sit at 65-70 and only drop back on the steepest of hills...
The auto is a bit higher geared than a manual box though (and with less control over when it shifts up), and the tyres are larger and possibly the map needs a tweak, but I definitely prefer it with the 1.4 on...
Mickey - if you want to try a 1.2, I've got the old transfer box in the shed (rebuilt with the ashcroft Q gear set) - it needs a new input seal but you are welcome to try it, if you like it we could sort something out (my 'new' 1.4 is whiney so could potentially swap)...
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If it was me, I'd prob look at ways to keep it - as said smiles per mile is a factor and it makes such a lovely noise! A TDI at motorway speed isn't a quiet place to be, I'd get another ride in one before you commit to a swap!
It's already got electronic points, so the timing side should be reasonably OK, but you may be able to get a bit more efficiency from playing with the standard settings.
Carb wise - I put it back to standard jets when I got it, as it was all over the shop before. If you know someone with a wideband lambda probe you could probably get quite a bit back by tweaking the jets / tubes etc. Obviously the best solution would be to go to EFI - TSD on here reckoned he could get 20ish MPG on a run with his v6 hybrid on full on off road tyres, which is quite an improvement...
Tyres - I'm not sure how much you could save going for road biased tyres vs. the BFG MT's that are on it?
I'm not sure if you could get an LPG tank in it - maybe between the arch boxes in the back? Then you are realistically looking at close to doubling the petrol consumption - I get the equivalent of 25MPG out of a v8 auto 110. The LPG kit would cost you a similar amount to doing a TDI swap (less if you can do most of it yourself or get a second hand kit), you retain the V6 then as well...
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Nooo - don't do it Adam!!
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Bearing in mind that a decent 2.5 petrol can be picked up for an absolute pittance as nobody wants them, it may be cheaper to buy a complete engine than rebore / rebuild one from bits....
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Thanks everyone... For those that did the tints yourself - did you use the pre-cut kits, or off a roll? From what the tint chappie was saying he'd actually remove the windows, tint them and refit, I guess you didn't go to all that trouble? Did you just tuck the edge or the tint into the window seal?
Thanks
Jon
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For the rear, I think you can go as dark as you like - but driving at night turns into a pain as you can't see for reversing or non-square junctions easily if they tint is too dark..
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Hi,
I've been looking at getting the rear windows tinted in my 110 CSW (with fixed rear windows) to keep it a bit cooler and stop it being so easy to peer in the back - however the local tint place is asking north of £300 for tinting the rear doors backwards, and will only consider it if I strip all of the interior trim out as apparently there are a total PITA to do as everything is so time consuming compared to a 'modern' car...
I've not got a garage / enough patience to do it myself so have been looking at other options...
Has anyone tried a set of custom window shades such as:
They are a bit pricey, but if they are any good they are still cheaper than a 'proper' tint...
Any other suggestions? I did wonder about getting some fine mozzie mesh type stuff and making my own, securing it with the window trims but as it would be held off the glass it might look a bit naff, unless someone can come up with a bright idea to secure it to the glass, or to the inside of the window seal?
Thanks
Jon
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Ahh, OK. I'm about to fit one to my v8, I was going to try and run it off the megasquirt or the EDIS pulse...
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How are you driving it - from the alternator or from an ignition pulse?
The dip switches are for the ignition pulse (LT side of coil, EDIS module etc) - and this shouldn't need adjusting.
The adjuster wotsit is for if you are driving it from the W terminal on an alternator (eg. on a diesel where there's no coil) - as the pulley sizes for different cars vary, the alternator spins at a different speed, so you have to calibrate the alternator pulse to get the rev counter to read reasonably accurately..
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Is there an autojumble type thing on there as well? Details on there site seem pretty light...
If it's just static cars I may give it a miss - had enough of them at Goodwood yesterday!
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Nothing wrong with comma oil. They've been about years and very reputable
I was going to say something similar - most oils are made to a standard spec in a large refinery somewhere and stuck in different coloured bottles to suit whoever is branding it - the contents are often the same. As long as it's got the relevant lists of letters and suitability codes it'll do the job...
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Quick thread bump - Nakatanenga (try saying that after a few pints, let along typing it!), one of the sponsors of the other forum for shiny new defenders, have a clearout of the Trucklite LED lights going on, for £250 shipped to the UK. The same units sell for £450ish normally... These are E marked, RHD units with warranty etc
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic37882.html
Hope this is of use
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Just found the guide:
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14601
From inside the vehicle, remove the drivers seat cushion, drivers floor panel, transmission tunnel cover, and centre seat/cubby box panel.
One of the pics shows the floor panel removed, but doesn't look like it allows you to get to much... If I can get away without it that'd be much better!!
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Thanks for the answers - makes life easier...
I was looking at some of the guides online, didn't spot the one on here!
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Hi,
I've looked in the various guides for dropping the transfer box on a 110, and most of them recommend removing the drivers floor panel.
Is it possible to remove it without touching the floor? I've got LPG tanks secured to the floor panel and an x-eng pendal lock so would rather avoid it if possible!!
Any advice / pointers / suggestions based on past experience much appreciated!
Thanks
Jon
Defender Security - Removable Steering wheel?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I had a removable boss on my series - I don't think anyone makes a LR specific removable boss, so you will probably end up with a LR boss to standard 6 bolt fitting, then the removable boss stacked on that. It worked OK, but the wheel was a shade close to you, and the indicator stalks a bit of a reach.
If it's any help, I have a 36 spline defender wheel boss that doesn't fit my new 110 in the shed somewhere...
For steering wheels, mk1 MX5's have quite nice MOMO leather rimmed wheels as standard - if you take the centre trim off they are 3 spoke metal MOMO wheels underneath, and they can be had very cheaply!