=jon=
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Posts posted by =jon=
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http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=65009#entry560998
May give you some help - not sure if the rear locks will fit the front though?
For the anti-burst ones you linked, you'd have to fabricate something to flick the little lever up and down, yep..
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That's a good point - you can't move the locking mechanism without the key in on the lift up handles can you?
Do the back door handles fit the lift up fronts? If so then there's one of the models that already has the rods attached for use with central locking..
Western - one of the manufacturers (SPLandrovers) makes a kit that replaces the ignition lock as well - so you have 1 key that does the ignition, doors and fuel filler cap. I just fitted a set to the 110, seems to work fine. Their website seems to be down now, google cache to the rescue:
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Is there a way to install central locking with that though? It's the kind of locks where a bit of metal swings down and stops the handle from lifting. So can't be moved without a key inside and what im really looking for is central locking for the car to save me time and wet hair!
It should be possible - normally on the aftermarket kits you have a rod that you strap to the existing locking rod that goes between the handle and the poppy uppy downy lock bit by the window - the solenoid just simulates pulling or pushing that. If you attached the rod to the bit that swings (maybe with a hole drilled in and a dogleg in the rod, or a bolt through with a hole in it) you should be able to make it work - it may take some trial and error with the angles of the rod / solenoid / attachment points though...
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What should I do guys
I'd leave it. There's quite a lot of choice for a similar amount of money about for 'standard' 90's - from something close to how it left the factory to something that's been tastefully/thoughtfully modified.
With a bitsa like that you are always going to be finding things that aren't standard / need special parts etc and unless you did it yourself you aren't going to know what bits were used when building it, so it'll rapidly turn into a nightmare...
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Other than the VOSA points, modifying a series chassis to coils is fairly major surgery in safety critical areas - you'd have to be very sure that it's been done well and is safe, which may be tough to tell if you don't know what you are looking for...
Personally, for that money you could get a decent 90, and you will end up with a lot less problems long term - insurance, parts availability etc (eg. what props does it use - are they standard 90 ones, series ones or something cooked up?).
You've not said where you are located, but members on here are generally very helpful and would probably come help you check out any potential purchase and show you the common areas to look out for (chassis rust, engine issues etc) in exchange for a pint afterwards!
Cheeky advert but my 90 is in the for sale section for similar money and is a great buy for someone
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Awesome - thanks everyone
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Very quick question - does anyone know if the TD5 fuel gauge takes standard VDO bulb holders eg:
I've bought a TD5 gauge from fleabay, but don't have the bulb holder with it...
Other than that, if there's an LR part number other than the complete loom (AMR5716?) that's not close to £80
Thanks!
Jon
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Isn't the vehicle sold in the UK as the Landcruiser actually a Prado and not the proper full size 200 series that the rest of the world gets.
We get both - the Prado (imported) / Colorado / LC120 series which are shogun/trooper sized. The 'full fat' LC is sold as an Amazon here, possibly the new ones are just badged Land Cruiser though...
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I had an older LC Derivative, a Hilux Surf (circa 1996) - very similar running gear and the same engine as the LC Colorado, same gearbox but switchable transfer box, very similar bar the body. It was like it was made out of granite - it was indestructable, in over 100K miles I put on it all it ever needed were minor consumables (track rod ends, steering rack bushes). I would have kept it but it was LEZ non-compliant due to the way it was imported
I went from that to a LandCruiser LC5 (the 120 series, 2003ish-2010ish). It was a bag of **** compared. It didn't have the build quality, the injectors needed changing at 80K miles at a cost of over £2K (under warranty, thankfully), there was a big recall for injector seals causing engines to coke up and kill themselves, the auto box started to make strange clicking noises and the rear air suspension went very bouncy, the AC packed up, etc etc...
I may have been unlucky and had a dog, but I didn't have the confidence in it... If you are looking at that era, check it out well, make sure the injector seal recall has been done, check out the auto box and don't get one that has rear air suspension (LC5)!
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I had Cooper AT2's on my old Land Cruiser. I couldn't really fault them - they were pretty quiet, worked well in all conditions, lasted well and were about £50 a corner cheaper than most of the competition...
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Congrats on the upcoming Turbocharger Jnr!
I've just been through a similar process - although with a 12 year old who can no longer fit in the middle seat.
I've ended up with a 110 - it's a weekend/toy car similar to yourself. A disco would be quieter/comfier/more usable every day, but it's just not the same....
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Hi,
I've just bought Paul's (HoSS) megasquirted 110, and I'm having a few teething problems with the software...
I've downloaded Tunerstudio, and MegaTune 2.25.
If I run MegaTune, it throws up loads of errors about expecting an MS2, but found a something else - to fix this is it just a case of picking the closest match in the .ini file?
In Tunerstudio it connects OK and I can read/write the settings, but I'm having a few issues with some of the 'advanced' features. The 110 has LPG, with a feed to ECU pin 5 that goes high when the LPG is active, which should switch to the alternate fuel/spark tables. This appears to be working, however Tunerstudio seems to think the contents of these is the same as the primary tables - where the fuel values should be blanked, and a different spark table.
I also don't see the 'Application Indicator' to show that the alternate tables are selected, and it won't let me add it (there's no NOS/Tables wotsit as per: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=85718&p=745416)
I'm guessing there's some config that needs to be done in the software to tell it that it needs to read in those maps and enable the functionality, but I can't seem to figure it out...
The steps I followed were to create a new project, then connect it to the ECU and allow it to read the settings in...
Any pointers? The LPG map switchover is working OK, but I can't see the proper settings!
Thanks
Jon
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For those that don't want to search...
I can't say they are to my taste, but it would be dependant on what they are going on I suppose...
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I bought a kit of sound deadening materials for my Forester from http://www.carinsulation.co.uk
It came with stuff like dynamat but in much larger rolls and rubber based not bitumen, stick on tumble drier fluff type stuff and waterproof 3m fluff for in doors etc where it could get wet. It made a pretty big difference. The thing to remember is that different types have different effects - flashing tape, dynamat etc don't block noise, they add load and stop panel vibration - so the doors on the Foz now close with a germanic thunk not a japanese rattle. The fluffy materials absorb sound, so there should be a combination of both types to get the best results - if you look at the Wright Offroad mad there is foam underneath it to absorb sound, with the rubber top layer to damp it/reflect it back...
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I've had good luck with A-Plan, the Thatcham branch (01635 874646). They insure my v6 90 with all sorts of mods with no issues
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Hope Santa brings you all something cool!
Does a v8 110 CSW count as something cool?
Merry christmas everyone
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I sold an old 90 on the last couple of days of October with 9 months tax on it. I have had the letter back saying I am no longer the owner but have never received a refund in the post - my partner paid for the tax online - would It've been refunded straight into her account by DVLA?
I will ask her tonight - I have only just remembered we haven't had the refund when I read this thread
I *think* that the automatic refund only applies if you have taxed it since the new tax disk-less system has come into force. If there's a paper tax disk you still have to send it back to get the refund...
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Someone that knows that they are doing could get round it with 2 spanners in about 10 mins (or a grinder in about 30s!), but the vehicle wouldn't be driveable afterwards - but from what I can tell most of them are put on a flatbed if the thief is 'dedicated' anyway...
I'd also be wary that it isn't very obvious as well - I can see the landy being hotwired, stuffed in low range and the guts revved out of it in an attempt to make it move, and from the look of it I'd imagine that the transfer box or gearbox would end up broken first..
Something like the x-eng pedal box is a bit more visible and makes it obvious that there are additional security measures...
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Do you have any marquee makers / tent makers near you? Go visit them and ask them how they'd reseal an older canvas marquee - I'm sure they have some tricks they could share
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That's always a bonus!! Especially when you drive a v8.
Word used to pay for mine.... They changed the scheme, which hurts a bit. Running a v8 with no LPG would be OK, but it would hurt come holiday time. With LPG it'd be better, but there's not many stations round here, so it would mean a special trip to fill it up - and I don't think the other half would cope with it if she was using it!
I had a look on ebay at a few TD5s - virtually all of them are LEZ non-compliant which rules them out for me
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The V8 CSW is a nice travelling vehicle, but the fuel costs are horrendous , say 36p a mile avg which soon adds up if going any distance . Lpg conversion looses you quite a bit of room , and you need a big tank as it uses lpg faster than petrol . In hot climates the amount of heat fed into the interior from the engine/transmission can be a negative impact , it needs a really good aircon to counteract it . Going from V8 to 300tdi/380 is not a straightforward swap , tunnel and seatbase need modding . HTSH
Thanks for the info. I would have looked at underslung tanks, rather than in cab I think, so space wouldn't be taken up... But I appreciate the other comments
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It's not a million miles from me
Give them a call, if you are still interested I could go & take a look on Saturday if you like?
Thanks for the offer, much appreciated.. If I stop going round and round in circles between petrol and td5 and 300TDI and make a decision in favour of the V8 I'll let you know...
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Hmmm - I'd not considered that approach, good idea...
Am half tempted to go and have a look at:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191431301924?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
As it seems reasonably standard and has had some of the trouble areas like door skins done already..
Also found this:
But it's a blooming long way away, and seems very very shiny - I guess it's been resprayed looking at it, and there's no details about the chassis...
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It wouldn't really be used as a main car - more a weekend toy and for holidays etc - so the difference in fuel economy would be pretty minimal cost wise to be honest - hence thinking about a v8 for the noise/power/smoothness and sticking LPG on it... V8 110s seem pretty rare though...
Sorting my door locks
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I bought a set, I've not noticed any issues with it, seemed OK to me but the 110 is laid up at the moment and not in general use!! I'll have a look at it later and see if it's the same...