=jon=
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Posts posted by =jon=
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Just did some checking - it's a 3 wire one, and one of the pins is 35Ohms to earth. Plugging it in and selecting PWM closed loop in tunerstudio causes the revs to hunt, so it appears to be working...
Does anyone have a set of base settings (idle speeds, duty cycles, PID values etc) to get me started along the right track please?
Thanks
Jon
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I think it's the Thor one - I'll check when I get back home. Do you have some more details on the resistor that's needed? I guess I'll need to pull the MS apart to check if it's there?
Ahh - found it http://www.extraefi.co.uk/idlevalve.htm#3wire
Cheers
Jon
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Hello All,
On my recently acquired 110, the idle control valve isn't connected up, and it's not setup in MS - idle is only set mechanically at the moment. Does anyone have a rough set of starter settings to get me going?
It's a 3.5 v8 with Thor heads if that makes any difference
Cheers
Jon
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Sure - I've not had the series for close to 2 years and they've been in my parents garage since so there's no rush!
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Just had a look through my old orders - I think they are fronts not rears, and they may be britpart not armstrong (paddock didn't quote a manufacturer and I don't have them to hand at the moment to check)..
You are still welcome to them though - let me know!
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And the on off switch effect, great in reduced speed limits, reach the right revs and all of a sudden you are breaking the law and rushing towards something in front of you! As you can tell I hate turbos?
Maybe in the 80's it was like that, or if you are chasing huge power with a small engine, but a modern well setup turbo has very little lag and will start making positive boost at a very low rev range. The old setup I had on my MX5 was a diddy little garret turbo - it started making positive boost at about 1200 RPM which would increase linearly as the revs came up. Driving it it was very much like a car with a larger engine, or just like a supercharged one but without the whine...
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That is helpful thanks - I'm looking at fitting later series shocks to my 80" to keep the costs down a little.
I have a pair of virtually new standard series shocks that are left over if you want them - I think they are standard armstrong ones.
You are welcome to them if you have someway of getting them from Oxford to you!
Thanks
Jon
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One other thing to bear in mind while it's all out - have you considered a 2.5 petrol from an early defender? I had one in my old series and it was considerably more powerful than the 2.25 it replaced. Other than that it was identical externally other than the throttle linkage so dead easy to fit...
They can be bought for absolute peanuts as well as nobody wants them...
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Nice project
Would using a throttle body injection unit not be a huge, huge amount easier? You are going to bypass a massive amount of hassle getting each injector mounted / angled right / fed properly, and to be honest, the power / efficiency gains on an old engine like a series are going to be totally minimal...
If you check out www.ep90.com, TSD from here did the same to a ford essex v6 with good results. I was going to do the same to mine, and even got as far as buying everything needed bar a fuel pump, but circumstances have changed and the 90 is for sale...
If you are interested in a brand new professionally built MS2, trigger wheel, GM injection throttle body etc drop me a PM! (There's also EDIS 6 & Coils but they are of less use!). Sorry for the shameless ad!
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I bought one of those lock sets and returned it, the ignition is alright but the "matched door locks" are not a factory matched set, they are all random unmatched ones which are matched afterwards to the ignition by inserting they key then grinding down any of the pins protruding to the same height. This results in some or all of the pins not protruding the correct height on each side - one of the lock barrels I was supplied with only had one full height pin out of five to hold it in position.
I bought a set, I've not noticed any issues with it, seemed OK to me but the 110 is laid up at the moment and not in general use!! I'll have a look at it later and see if it's the same...
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http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=65009#entry560998
May give you some help - not sure if the rear locks will fit the front though?
For the anti-burst ones you linked, you'd have to fabricate something to flick the little lever up and down, yep..
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That's a good point - you can't move the locking mechanism without the key in on the lift up handles can you?
Do the back door handles fit the lift up fronts? If so then there's one of the models that already has the rods attached for use with central locking..
Western - one of the manufacturers (SPLandrovers) makes a kit that replaces the ignition lock as well - so you have 1 key that does the ignition, doors and fuel filler cap. I just fitted a set to the 110, seems to work fine. Their website seems to be down now, google cache to the rescue:
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Is there a way to install central locking with that though? It's the kind of locks where a bit of metal swings down and stops the handle from lifting. So can't be moved without a key inside and what im really looking for is central locking for the car to save me time and wet hair!
It should be possible - normally on the aftermarket kits you have a rod that you strap to the existing locking rod that goes between the handle and the poppy uppy downy lock bit by the window - the solenoid just simulates pulling or pushing that. If you attached the rod to the bit that swings (maybe with a hole drilled in and a dogleg in the rod, or a bolt through with a hole in it) you should be able to make it work - it may take some trial and error with the angles of the rod / solenoid / attachment points though...
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What should I do guys
I'd leave it. There's quite a lot of choice for a similar amount of money about for 'standard' 90's - from something close to how it left the factory to something that's been tastefully/thoughtfully modified.
With a bitsa like that you are always going to be finding things that aren't standard / need special parts etc and unless you did it yourself you aren't going to know what bits were used when building it, so it'll rapidly turn into a nightmare...
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Other than the VOSA points, modifying a series chassis to coils is fairly major surgery in safety critical areas - you'd have to be very sure that it's been done well and is safe, which may be tough to tell if you don't know what you are looking for...
Personally, for that money you could get a decent 90, and you will end up with a lot less problems long term - insurance, parts availability etc (eg. what props does it use - are they standard 90 ones, series ones or something cooked up?).
You've not said where you are located, but members on here are generally very helpful and would probably come help you check out any potential purchase and show you the common areas to look out for (chassis rust, engine issues etc) in exchange for a pint afterwards!
Cheeky advert but my 90 is in the for sale section for similar money and is a great buy for someone
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Awesome - thanks everyone
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Very quick question - does anyone know if the TD5 fuel gauge takes standard VDO bulb holders eg:
I've bought a TD5 gauge from fleabay, but don't have the bulb holder with it...
Other than that, if there's an LR part number other than the complete loom (AMR5716?) that's not close to £80
Thanks!
Jon
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Isn't the vehicle sold in the UK as the Landcruiser actually a Prado and not the proper full size 200 series that the rest of the world gets.
We get both - the Prado (imported) / Colorado / LC120 series which are shogun/trooper sized. The 'full fat' LC is sold as an Amazon here, possibly the new ones are just badged Land Cruiser though...
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I had an older LC Derivative, a Hilux Surf (circa 1996) - very similar running gear and the same engine as the LC Colorado, same gearbox but switchable transfer box, very similar bar the body. It was like it was made out of granite - it was indestructable, in over 100K miles I put on it all it ever needed were minor consumables (track rod ends, steering rack bushes). I would have kept it but it was LEZ non-compliant due to the way it was imported
I went from that to a LandCruiser LC5 (the 120 series, 2003ish-2010ish). It was a bag of **** compared. It didn't have the build quality, the injectors needed changing at 80K miles at a cost of over £2K (under warranty, thankfully), there was a big recall for injector seals causing engines to coke up and kill themselves, the auto box started to make strange clicking noises and the rear air suspension went very bouncy, the AC packed up, etc etc...
I may have been unlucky and had a dog, but I didn't have the confidence in it... If you are looking at that era, check it out well, make sure the injector seal recall has been done, check out the auto box and don't get one that has rear air suspension (LC5)!
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I had Cooper AT2's on my old Land Cruiser. I couldn't really fault them - they were pretty quiet, worked well in all conditions, lasted well and were about £50 a corner cheaper than most of the competition...
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Congrats on the upcoming Turbocharger Jnr!
I've just been through a similar process - although with a 12 year old who can no longer fit in the middle seat.
I've ended up with a 110 - it's a weekend/toy car similar to yourself. A disco would be quieter/comfier/more usable every day, but it's just not the same....
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Hi,
I've just bought Paul's (HoSS) megasquirted 110, and I'm having a few teething problems with the software...
I've downloaded Tunerstudio, and MegaTune 2.25.
If I run MegaTune, it throws up loads of errors about expecting an MS2, but found a something else - to fix this is it just a case of picking the closest match in the .ini file?
In Tunerstudio it connects OK and I can read/write the settings, but I'm having a few issues with some of the 'advanced' features. The 110 has LPG, with a feed to ECU pin 5 that goes high when the LPG is active, which should switch to the alternate fuel/spark tables. This appears to be working, however Tunerstudio seems to think the contents of these is the same as the primary tables - where the fuel values should be blanked, and a different spark table.
I also don't see the 'Application Indicator' to show that the alternate tables are selected, and it won't let me add it (there's no NOS/Tables wotsit as per: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=85718&p=745416)
I'm guessing there's some config that needs to be done in the software to tell it that it needs to read in those maps and enable the functionality, but I can't seem to figure it out...
The steps I followed were to create a new project, then connect it to the ECU and allow it to read the settings in...
Any pointers? The LPG map switchover is working OK, but I can't see the proper settings!
Thanks
Jon
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For those that don't want to search...
I can't say they are to my taste, but it would be dependant on what they are going on I suppose...
insurance with a engine conversion
in International Forum
Posted
I insured my old 90 which had a ford v6 in it with A-Plan - if you google the number for their thatcham branch they have a specialist 4x4 division...