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=jon=

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Posts posted by =jon=

  1. I bought a kit of sound deadening materials for my Forester from http://www.carinsulation.co.uk

    It came with stuff like dynamat but in much larger rolls and rubber based not bitumen, stick on tumble drier fluff type stuff and waterproof 3m fluff for in doors etc where it could get wet. It made a pretty big difference. The thing to remember is that different types have different effects - flashing tape, dynamat etc don't block noise, they add load and stop panel vibration - so the doors on the Foz now close with a germanic thunk not a japanese rattle. The fluffy materials absorb sound, so there should be a combination of both types to get the best results - if you look at the Wright Offroad mad there is foam underneath it to absorb sound, with the rubber top layer to damp it/reflect it back...

  2. I sold an old 90 on the last couple of days of October with 9 months tax on it. I have had the letter back saying I am no longer the owner but have never received a refund in the post - my partner paid for the tax online - would It've been refunded straight into her account by DVLA?

    I will ask her tonight - I have only just remembered we haven't had the refund when I read this thread

    I *think* that the automatic refund only applies if you have taxed it since the new tax disk-less system has come into force. If there's a paper tax disk you still have to send it back to get the refund...

  3. Someone that knows that they are doing could get round it with 2 spanners in about 10 mins (or a grinder in about 30s!), but the vehicle wouldn't be driveable afterwards - but from what I can tell most of them are put on a flatbed if the thief is 'dedicated' anyway...

    I'd also be wary that it isn't very obvious as well - I can see the landy being hotwired, stuffed in low range and the guts revved out of it in an attempt to make it move, and from the look of it I'd imagine that the transfer box or gearbox would end up broken first..

    Something like the x-eng pedal box is a bit more visible and makes it obvious that there are additional security measures...

  4. That's always a bonus!! Especially when you drive a v8.

    Word used to pay for mine.... They changed the scheme, which hurts a bit. Running a v8 with no LPG would be OK, but it would hurt come holiday time. With LPG it'd be better, but there's not many stations round here, so it would mean a special trip to fill it up - and I don't think the other half would cope with it if she was using it!

    I had a look on ebay at a few TD5s - virtually all of them are LEZ non-compliant which rules them out for me :(

  5. The V8 CSW is a nice travelling vehicle, but the fuel costs are horrendous , say 36p a mile avg which soon adds up if going any distance . Lpg conversion looses you quite a bit of room , and you need a big tank as it uses lpg faster than petrol . In hot climates the amount of heat fed into the interior from the engine/transmission can be a negative impact , it needs a really good aircon to counteract it . Going from V8 to 300tdi/380 is not a straightforward swap , tunnel and seatbase need modding . HTSH

    Thanks for the info. I would have looked at underslung tanks, rather than in cab I think, so space wouldn't be taken up... But I appreciate the other comments :)

  6. Hmmm - I'd not considered that approach, good idea...

    Am half tempted to go and have a look at:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191431301924?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    As it seems reasonably standard and has had some of the trouble areas like door skins done already..

    Also found this:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-110-V8-PETROL-COUNTY-STATION-WAGON-/271664185936?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item3f40728250

    But it's a blooming long way away, and seems very very shiny - I guess it's been resprayed looking at it, and there's no details about the chassis...

  7. Hi,

    This has probably been asked a few times before, so apologies...

    I'm looking at 'trading up' my 90 for a 110 - my lad is too big to travel any distance in the middle seat now, and most of the 90 rear load seats seem like bodges - and take away all the space!

    It'd also be good to have something for tip runs / holidays etc with a load of room in it!

    So - I've been looking at 110s to replace it with. My nominal budget is about 5K - which gets me a selection of 300's, but for a little bit more you are in TD5 territory. I know the TD5 had some teething problems, but are the ones at the bottom end of the market likely to be total dogs / money pits?

    The leftfield option is a v8 and convert it to LPG - I've got a megasquirt already so it would be a case of getting an EDIS and wiring it up... I was very interested in the one the HoSS has/had for sale a few months back, but he's gone quiet and stopped answering emails or PMs :(

    Does anyone know any decent 110's for sale - as said there's a few on ebay but I'd rather get a 'known' one if possible!

    Thanks

    Jon

  8. I had Discoverer AT2s on my old Land Cruiser, and they were very good - worked well in all conditions (on road - wet/dry/snow etc), lasted well and weren't noisy. I didn't try them in mud though, but I think they are more the road end of AT than the extreme end. I'd have no reservations putting them on again...

  9. Then there's the direct injected 1KZT, a 3litre turbodiesel 4cylinder, I *think* it fits that gearbox as well but not sure. Also head cracking issues but from info I've found less so than the 2LT. Much more power potential with this engine. Found in KZJ70 series Landcruisers, I believe the 90series had the electronic controlled version of this engine.

    The 1KZT is also found in some imported wagons - Surfs etc. The older 1KTZ was mechanical fuel pump, the 'E' designation is electronically controlled - found in later Surfs (1994 ish?), late LC Colorados (J90s) and early 120s...

    I had a 1KZTE in my old surf, and it was a brilliant engine - never missed a beat in over 100K miles :)

  10. Which way are you trying to change - Diesel to Petrol or vice versa?

    I don't think it's impossible - although it may be more difficult if you are going Diesel to Petrol which makes you LEZ exempt - you may need receipts / engineers report etc.

    I've wondered what would happen if you had Petrol on the V5 and a diesel engine fitted - if you got stopped in the LEZ what (if any) the offence would be..

  11. As I understand it before the LEZ came in to being you just asked the DVLA nicely and they did, however after the LEZ came in they didn't like the number of requests. So if your Defender was produced after 1998 (I think) they would do it only if you had a letter from Land Rover stating that it left the factory as the type you wanted it changed to, if older than 1998 they wouldn't change it.

    I think that only applies if you are trying to change the designation - most land rovers are registered as '4x4 Light Utility' which is a commercial designation, and therefore subject to the LEZ. A factory CSW would likely be registered as something like '4x4 Estate', which is a private designation so not bound by the LEZ. If you try and change a car from 4x4 Light Utility to Estate they make you jump through hoops as they think you are trying to dodge the LEZ fees - but if you changed from pick up to light utility or just changed the number of seats it would likely be a load easier as the LEZ status wouldn't change..

    I had a simolar issue with an imported Toyota Surf Diesel - the V5 said 4x4 Light Utility and they wouldn't change it without a written letter from Toyota saying that it was a passenger vehicle, which Toyota wouldn't provide as it was a grey import...

    • Like 1
  12. I believe Land Rover (not sure about the newer ones) don't go along with the ODB standard, I believe they even get fined for it.

    The OBDII standards are pretty limited - the bare minimum needed for US emissions testing. They report basic faults with sensors and things like the A/F ratio, boost pressure, coolant temp etc... Apps like Torque can read these out.

    The deeper level stuff is manufacturer specific from what I can tell - and you need much higher level hardware than the ebay adaptors. When my missus car had a problem I couldn't get much info from Torque via OBD, but I borrowed some specialist kit (£500 adaptor + sofware that ran on a laptop and gave the same level of access as the dealer's £20,000 units).

    It could tell you so, so much more about the car - even down to electric window calibration, disabling airbags / safety systems and flashing new versions of the firmware.

    As the manufacturers don't freely give away their proprietary codes, everything has to be got by reverse engineering which requires access to every car you want to support, or paying the manufacturers a very large amount of cash for a proper licence. This alone would be an absolute nightmare for a startup to support!

  13. I thought it was OK - you could see that a LOT of work had been done in the background that wasn't shown though - the axles magically got repainted and looked to have brand new swivels etc, and Mr. Glenister came across a big condescending at times to some of the enthusiasts, but they did make a very nice job of the series 1...

    The off road bit looked like the 4x4 without a club course at Aldermaston, although I may be completely wrong..

    Car SOS was a good call, we are quite enjoying catching up with that :)

  14. I've got two of the cheapy-ish ones looking over the house and garden. The (free) linux backend software is called Zonealarm and runs on one of my PCs... Some of the cameras have motion detection software built in but normally it's a bit pap...

    The first cam is a 'Foscam' clone - basically a chinese company called foscam ripped off another companies design and made clone cameras, these clones themselves got ripped off hence most of the cheapy ones on ebay are referred to as foscam clones. Mine's a DB Power something or other which was about £40. It works OK, the res isn't great and the night vision range isn't that great either. I ended up buying a different lens for it to improve the field of view - a lot of bits are changeable and sometimes you can improve the quality by refocussing them as they are slapped together without a lot of care..

    The second one I have is a Dahua (http://www.use-ip.co.uk/dahua-ipc-hfw2100-1-3mp-hd-network-mini-ir-bullet-camera.html), which are the same as the ones you can buy in the high street rebranded as Swann. The quality (both image and build) is a lot lot better, 720p HD if you want it, and the quality at night is much better too - but for moving subjects at distance you would struggle to identify someone well enough to provide the police..

    My advice would be to skip buying the cheap crappy ones and get decent ones - the quality is so much better compared. I'd also check the lens size to make sure it's got a wide enough depth of field to cover what you want :) If you are paranoid you can also get external IR illumination which improves the range / quality at night..

  15. How about a defender 2.5 petrol engine?

    Noticeably more powerful than the 2.25, bit more economical with the weber twin choke on it, and drops straight in. They also come up dirt cheap...

    I seem to remember someone did some mild tuning on one and got it over 100BHP if you want more oomph..

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