=jon=
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Posts posted by =jon=
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Thanks everyone...
I guess the next stupid question is if I went big single battery, what's the biggest off the shelf one that'll easily fit in there!
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You should be able to rule it out by running with the laptop connected and looking at the air temp values via the MS software - if when you get running issues the air temp is reading as much over ambient there's your issue..
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I'm prepared to spend what's necessary - whatever will get the job done without going overboard - so if two standard batteries are OK and I don't need optimas etc I'd save the cash for when something else inevitably needs fixing!
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Hi,
The battery in my 90 is getting a bit tired - currently it's got what I believe to be a 90Ah Disco battery (it's branded LR but I can't remember the part number off the top of my head) fitted under the passenger seat with a custom battery clamp.
I'm likely going to be fitting a winch (just for self recovery, not anything particularly taxing!) at some point soon, so am considering going twin battery, with a split charge system of some form. The landy is only used occasionally, so hopefully I can power the 'always on stuff' like the alarm off the second battery and not have it go flat when left, and also I'll likely also have it set up to use the second battery for lights when camping)
What's the recommended setup? I've read on here differing opinions about a big single battery if the winch is only for occasional use, to two smaller batteries with split charge, to exotic stuff like twin sealed batteries..
Any thoughts? If one big battery will do me fine then that's probably going to be the cheapest / simplest options (and just use common sense when camping!).
Any advice appreciated!
Thanks
Jon
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Hi,
Do you have a link for the bulbs you ended up using in the end?
Thanks!
Jon
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Please post what you need to order and how it works out - I need to do similar to mine at some point soon!
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I've got the upgraded wipac lights and Phillips Brilliance bulbs and the headlights still aren't great - the light is noticeably yellow due to lack of voltage - a relay switched loom is on my shopping list at some point soon - but I think my mishmash 90 has a ford alternator not a landy one, so whatever I get will need modifying to fit
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I've got a monster Arcan one from Costco - think it's the same as:
http://www.adamsautoadvice.com/2011/12/best-floor-jack-ever-arcan-xl35r-from-costco/
It's high enough lift for the landy, and low enough entry to get under a lowered car. The only downside is that it's very very heavy!
I think it was under £100 - and with Costco's warranty if there's any probs in the future they will exchange or refund for free
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Other than Megasquirt has any used another aftermarket injection system on their Rover V8. Holly make a nice system as a replacement for Holly carbies but it is mainly for US engines but may fit on a modified Rover inlet manifold.
Are you just looking for engine management, or a complete setup?
I've got Adaptronic (www.adaptronic.com.au) on my MX5 - it's similar in that it can run with a multitude of engines like MS, but arguably it's more advanced than MS, and it's also aussie so probably quite cheap for you...
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Hey Aaron,
Glad to see you made it over from the SXOC
I've seen the rest of the build pics on another forum we both frequent and there's a lot more progress to come (probably in the sub 5 post approval queue...
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Unfortunately according to the listing this isn't suitable for a 1995 300Tdi 110. No idea why not.
I'm not sure why not - but it should work anyway - it's pretty much a pre-built duplicate of the home made solutions that have been suggested in the thread already...
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Wow - that's stupidly cheap, and even includes postage from China...
Wires don't look as thick as the UK one though, and you'd probably need to budget an extra tenner for some decent relays, but it's still cheap!!
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If you don't like electrickery and want a simpler / quicker (if more expensive) option, someone on ebay is doing a plug and play loom kit:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321280431149?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
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I'm hoping so - although the seller hasn't answered and seems to have pulled the auction now...
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About a tenner for the blue box knockoffs, or about £80 for originals from LR...
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Does anyone have any idea what these seats are:
They are listed as brand 'Trakker', and Bearmach part BA2080 - are these the exmoor trim trakkers - the fold up ones as mentioned earlier? I've found a set elsewhere much cheaper, but the details are rubbish, no pictures and the seller hasn't answered my questions yet...
Thanks!
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They use child safety as a marketing tool (doesn't everyone these days?
). I had no problem securing child seats to the two cheaper type ET seats by pulling the seat beltls very tight on the child seats and then giving them a sharp tug to engage their inertia reel locks with the belts still under tension. The child seats sat in the car semi-permanently without any instances of moving on the seats, or of any damage to the seats or belts. Booster seats were later used with equal security and success, and the kids had no trouble once they were big enough to use the seat plain.The only reason I sold them (to Meccano on here)is because I used a pair of Defender front seats in the second row when I rebuilt the car, for better support of adults, and the ET seats ultimately became redundant.
The ET seats can be seen here on my blog while they were fitted as a third row, before being replaced by storage lockers: http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/430/ and http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/430/
Cool - thanks. The boy's 11 now, so way past the child seat stage, but ultimately I want something that's safe and secure!
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Jon there is someone making the newer type of wheel boxes to be retrofitted into earlier vehicles so that you can fit the new Puma seats into older vehicles. I'm not sure what the company is called but there are a few people fitting them on the Defender2 forum.
Could you not take the Toyota to France if all else fails? - plenty of room for duty free in the back!
CSK Landrovers - the kits £250 quid plus fitting (although it may be possible to DIY), then the Puma seats on top...
The Toyota didn't live up to the legendary Japanese build quality - the gearbox started making unusual clicking noises in neutral / drive, which sounded ominous... Then the suspension on the back started getting bouncy - it was either the airbags or the electrically adjustable dampers - both of which would be a fortune to replace. Needless to say I got rid of it!!
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And loose the V6 song
Yeah - the 90 really is very solid, in decent nick (bar the paint job!) and is a bit 'different' - and it'd be pretty likely that a bottom end 110 would need quite a bit doing to it...
when riding in the exmoor seats, and with the 90 pinned round a corner (this is very unlikely to happen) the seats can tilt with you on them. im sure there is a way to lock them down but it can be a fun experience.
i have ridden in these seats for an hour or 2 solid and where they arent the most comfortable, neither is a normal land rover anyway. but i am young so i can hack it haha
I'd be interested to know if the locking ones are worth the extra - the safety certification suggests they are more robust, and they lock down so shouldn't tip up...
The plan is that we are going camping towards the end of this summer at a big family reunion type thing close to the south of France, so they would need to be comfy enough to sit in for 7-8 hours pootling across France... I think there would be enough space in the back for the camping gear, and as it's got a towbar I can fit the bikes on the back easily enough..
The alternative is that I get a towbar (for the bike rack) put on the back of the Subaru, and travel down in air conditioned comfort!! (and probably recoup the cost of the towbar in petrol savings!!)
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Thanks for the feedback Snagger.
It looks like the Exmoor ones may be OK, as long as we think about how they are fitted / belted up then (or look at the more expensive ones!). I'd probably only get one of them anyway...
Anderzander: I didn't realise the expensive ones folded up onto the wheel wells - they only make that clear if you look at the detailed specs. £600/seat though hurts a bit, but what is safety worth I suppose!! It'd be almost cheaper to trade in for a 110!
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There's been comments about the blue box seals having inserts in around the 'bendy' bits to stop them collapsing / creasing - and that these bits have stopped peoples doors from closing easily. I don't think the original ones have these...
There was someone on ebay (equicar4x4?) selling original seals for a tenner or so each, but they only seemed to have the passenger side. They were definitely higher quality than the pattern ones though....
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Hi,
I'm considering a set of forward facing rear seats to go in the back on my 90 - my lad's getting a bit big to sit in the middle seat for any period of time so these look like the ideal solution.
I've seen references to Exmoor Trim's set (http://www.exmoortrim.co.uk/store/defender-products/load-area-seats/forward-facing-fold-up-left-hand-detail.html), but a few niggles in terms of quality and how sturdy they are.
I've also seen reference to using the forward facing seats from a new model 90, which you can sometimes get second hand, with these being said to be much sturdier.
Any comments or experience using either?
Thanks!
Jon
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There used to be a product called 'damplifier' which was a spray on equivalent to dynanat, doesn't seem to be available now though...
I used some of the Mass Loaded Vinyl from a car acoustics place, along with 3M and 'tumble drier fluff' noise absorbent stuff on my Subaru. It's gone a long way to deadening the panels, and was a lot lot cheaper than dynamat or the noisekiller equivalent. It helped a lot with noise, bit I have had some issues with it coming unstuck from the door skins and sticking to the windows when they are wound down, which has been rather annoying! Probably my dodgy installation though...
One thing to bear in mind - something like dynamat doesn't necessarily make anything quieter - but it will stop panels rattling and resonating. One something like a defender which is made out of very thin metal it's going to help quite a bit, but to get truly quiet you are going to need a combination of something to deaden the panels, then something to absorb any sound (fluffy) and then something to reflect the remaining sound back into the fluffy layer, like mass loaded vinyl...
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I used laminate floor underlay (the 1mm blown foam stuff) on mine, stuck on with high temp (important!) spray glue. Worked a treat, and was basically free as I had a load left over...
). I had no problem securing child seats to the two cheaper type ET seats by pulling the seat beltls very tight on the child seats and then giving them a sharp tug to engage their inertia reel locks with the belts still under tension. The child seats sat in the car semi-permanently without any instances of moving on the seats, or of any damage to the seats or belts. Booster seats were later used with equal security and success, and the kids had no trouble once they were big enough to use the seat plain.
progress. ....really ?
in International Forum
Posted
This is a pretty interesting thread actually, and is reasonably timely as I'm half heartedly shopping for a new car at the moment as I need something more economical. If you look at modern diesels, turbos seem almost consumable, injectors don't seem to last due to the crazy rail pressures, and googling "DPF Failure" is almost scary enough to give you palpitations...
I would absolutely love a D3 - however all of the horror stories of unreliability and unnecessary complexity really put me off!