Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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Oh dear, bit of a bump in the road, but you are already making the right moves for a recovery. To be fair, apart from the rear tubular outrigger, none of these would make it particularly unsafe.
I'd say think about some rust prevention to preserve what you have in the future.
Daan
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8 hours ago, B reg 90 said:
Think that on a 110 the mid box in the exhaust is out of the way, ie further back. On a 90 the drive shaft clashes with the box. Easily fixed with a bit of a custom exhaust section.
drive shaft is week link. They vibrate at any kind of speed (like 5th gear and ur foot down!!). Think Daan use a freelancer prop to get around this?
The TD5 PTO looks a lot longer from standard, so clearly it needs to miss something. I cannot picture what it looks like underneath, but this is what a TD5 specific PTO looks like:
I used a freelander prop for the fixed bit and an MGB prop for the slider. no vibration with this. They are much larger in diameter so more difficult to package, but a much nicer engineering solution. I also clocked the PTO, redrilled the flange so you can rotate out of the way, so it does not stick out below the chassis. Important if you are planning to take it offroad.
I fitted a duplex chain, so double the strength compared to standard and a bigger shaft at the bottom. But for the standard winch this is not needed.
Daan
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1 hour ago, Nonimouse said:
A friend has an 07, Mk3 Ford Ranger (Mazda BT50). His key fob has died (not battery)
Ford don't want to know - in fact he was told that there is no Mk3 Ranger
Mazda are even worse - Mazda Swindon stated that 'Mazda don't sell pick up trucks in the UK, so this must be a grey import'
He can get a new key fob off eBay.
Any suggestions as to where he can get it programmed?
Is the spare key still present? In this case Timpson key cutters can do it. Check their website, as not all the outlets do remote kar keys.
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I would start with fitting the PTO, and see what is in your way with regards to exhaust and mounts etc, then work your way forwards with the shaft. mounting the winch itself should not be a problem obviously. I do remember the TD5 being quite a bit different in the PTO area for the winch.
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If you have space, you could just buy it, leave it for 10 years, and ebay it again, certainly better than putting money in the bank at the moment.
Bits are no problem by the looks of it:
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16 hours ago, Defender said:
Ok thanks but I'm still a bit confused, to get more performance from a diesel I thought you needed more fuel and air?
That article suggests giving more fuel but leaving the boost at 18psi.
So is it saying the 300tdi won't live long with more than 18psi? Anyone running more that could comment good or bad?
I'm also still not sure where to find a document on egt temps for a 300tdi, does anyone have a source please?
Many thanks,
I have read mixed reports on increasing the boost on TDIs. From what I gather, without the large intercooler, it is not doing the engine (or turbo) any good.
This company has been around for many, many years, and does not recommend touching the turbo pressure unless you change the turbo for the stage 2 version:
http://www.allardturbosport.co.uk/index.php?page=Defender-and-Discovery-200-300-TDI
Also, the boost pin does nothing to improve your power, it just allows more fuel to be injected momentarily under acceleration. The max fuel delivery of the pump does not change.
I have removed the function of the boost pin by winding the screw in completely. Turbo pressure is unchanged as is fuel delivery. It just means if you put your foot down, your fuel delivery only depends on throttle position and RPM, rather than Throttle pos, RPM and boost. I am very happy with this setup. I want the engine to last for a long time, so any other mods are not really an option for me.
Daan
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True, but you can still have the hydraulic bump stop I think?
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2 hours ago, discomikey said:
The Bowler fast road and rally setups are very good for a bolt on solution to a standard defender - Take a look at some of the defender challenge footage. It wasn't uncommon for one or two of the drivers to keep up with/overtake scoobies on stage.
Going a step up, take a look at the Bowler V6 110 Supercharged rally car. Live axle again but with some easily achievable modifications to geometry etc. - Radius arm all round, watts linkage rear, and Bilstien Coilovers.
This one?
https://racecarsdirect.com/Advert/Details/107212/bowler-v6-110-defender-race-car
Interesting to see that Bowler does most projects with a single damper on every corner; I like that much more than the Ultra 4 12 damper solution.
Daan
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Some comp safari/ultra4 cars have more money in their shocks than most of us have in their entire car, so I'd say we shouldn't waste too much time looking at these. Anyway, from how I understand suspension for going fast in the most simplistic way is this:
You need to aim for the softest spring you can possibly fit without the wheel hitting the bump stops too often. And to do that the shocks are the main thing. So too high a damping rate will make it a bone shaker. So dampers have a variable damping rate. To achieve this, there are 2 options:
A bypass damper, which makes the damper rate higher the further it moves up the stroke. These are being used for baja and ultra 4, and in recent years also getting used in comp safari.
The other option is different damper rates for different speeds. So dampers that have adjusters for high speed and low speed. These are used in WRC and Dakar.
I am not sure why the different approaches are used in different disciplines. I think a big problem with the setup on ultra 4 etc, is 3 dampers per wheel: so there is a coilover, a bypass and the hydraulic bumpstop. So you have 12 dampers on the car. Where as WRC have everything, including the bump stop built in a single damper, so you only have 4 dampers on the car. Dakar cars have usually 2 dampers per corner.
The tricky bit is setting them up. the dampers can be rebuild and revalved to make the car handle the way you like. To do this you need to go testing and try several different valvings and springs untill it behaves the way you want. Ideally, you need to get a couple of sets of dampers, so you can test while your shock technician revalves another set, than swap over. When I mention a shock technician, we probably start to think it gets a bit involved. So once you have spend a load of money on the actual shocks, you are going to spend even more money on getting them dialled in properly. Here is were we just cannot keep up with big spenders basically.
Interestingly, In a tuning guide for fox shocks, they stated that they make many more shocks than they make valving sets, so the majority just fits them out of the box and call it done, never really get the full benefit.
Anyway, back to the level were most of us operate, I have never got too far into dampers myself, but Fox does the truck & SUV range, which allows their dampers to be used as a direct fit to your car. There is this one, called the IFP which has no external reservoir:
Or this one with external reservoir and adjuster:
I had an adjustable set at the front, and the IFPs at the back for croatia. (Prolinx only had 2 external reservoir versions in stock at the time) And they were a different league from the old man emus I had previously. So that is my recommendation. even just fitting the IFPs will be a big improvement over any mass production damper. And at that price, i'd say it is the best bang for buck you are ever going to get for your suspension.
I don't think a bypass damper has much to offer on a defender, as it is not a good fit at the front, but the high speed/low speed adjustment approach is certainly a good thing to have.
There are problems though,as the the pin fixings have very stiff rubbers. I didn't dare to do them up fully, which resulted in 1 damper loosing its rubbers somewhere on the M40. So Then I did do them up as tight as possible. This resulted in the shafts bending under full articulation. So although I recommend them, I would replace the bottom pin fixings for rodends at the bottom.
When we have are soft springs, cornering gets interesting, so an anti roll bar can be used, but this makes setting up harder again as the roll bar also influences wheel movement at speed. Also for cornering, castor is good for steering feel and it means your wheel will roll on camber in corners, which is good to get it to turn in.
Anyway, from my little knowledge of suspension.
Daan
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A tesla can do 300 miles on a charge. That will do most people. So we are getting there. A defender is just the wrong vehicle to begin with. There is always the bollinger if you want an offroader.
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4 minutes ago, Anderzander said:
Gosh I missed this !! Though a bit late for me to consider one in my 80”
It would be good fit I reckon.
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Thanks, but 110 hp in an 80" wheel base is plenty I reckon. I am no good with electronics, so will keep it simple.
Daan
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I am working normal hours at home, but it seems much busier doing other things as well:
sprog 1 learning to cycle:
Make sure sprog 2 doesn't disapear:
Walk sunny:
I might get 1 hour tonight on the landrover (still on topic!).
Daan
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On 7/31/2007 at 8:28 AM, Lewis said:
I hope in 10 years time I'm posting in a thread entitled "Who remembers Extreme Trekkers"
Lewis
We are in this situation now. It is Maxis trepador that's all the rage. It is bigger, now 37 or 40 inch. But from what I saw, they fill up and don't self clean very well as they are not as course as a simex or bogger. But being bigger, you don't get stuck as much as the diff is higher of the ground. A shame it went this way, as it pretty much brings us into special axles teritory, and that puts people off the sport I reckon.
Daan
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Varta Blue dynamic is what I run:
Has been there since 2010. I cannot quite remember what amps the one I have has, but it is definitely this shape. I run a single battery, and that is used for everything including the rear winch.
Daan
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Yes, the main man is called Igor, and he was the driving force behind it al. I have heard there were troubles behind the scenes as well, hence last years event was moved to a different location.
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On 5/11/2020 at 6:53 AM, Anderzander said:
Somehow I missed this. Must be really encouraging to see that all sit together!? Perhaps only a bit of fabrication away from rolling ?
Yes, should be together soon.... just dreaming!
Do you keep the original bulkhead even with the Willy panels ?
I kept the original bulkhead for now, as I don't have the MB body yet, so at least I have a reference.
Are the drums staying ? 😊No
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Have to say, the negative ackerman problem is not bad enough to warrant welding to a cast component. This is always going to be tricky. I know wytze is planning to change to a fabricated bracket, but even so. There is a standard bent trackrod available for this. Another angle is to just fit a coilspring front axle. If your tyre size is 35", some ashcroft internals should easily make it reliable. And the spring over conversion to a coiler axle is dead easy. Problem solved.
Almost every challenge truck now has hydro steer mounted to the front of the axle, and if you do this to a rover axle, you have negative ackerman. In theory it is not ideal, but in practice, it works ok.
For the people who wish to graft coiler sides to a leaf sprung axle, I noticed this (from another forum):
Daan
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Did you try running it with the crank case breather disconnected?
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Shame the links are so short and have a bend in them. But I am just nitpicking.
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After all this, the heystee kit is hard to beat, as any future consumable is off the shelf. If you try to graft coilsprung axle ends onto series axles you need custom shafts, or if you fit coiler axles, you need a host of special length steering arms or weird suspension mounts, the Zeus kit has non standard discs and pads, need spacers which are the work of the devil.
Go Heystee I'd say, and I am not saying this because I am dutch!
Daan
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Check this thread:
Fitting long shackles could solve the track rod issue, as well as a a slightly bend track rod.
Daan
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Discs...
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Reset springs, driveshaft now too short
in Series Forum
Posted
I suppose the shock absorbers don't fit either? The springs are going to take a set, so it needs a bit of weight and some decent articulation to get the to sit right. If they are too arched, maybe longer shocks and a spacer. From what I gather, reseting springs tends to be not lasting the laife of the vehicle, and it will eventually, years later end up as it was.