Daan
-
Posts
4,950 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
46
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Daan
-
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Hi, getting back on this project again. I have started with for me the most interesting part of this project; the chassis modifications, starting with the springs.
I want to stay with leafs in the interest of keeping it real, but the original spring packs were in a bad state. New ones are available, but that would be too easy; I wanted something a bit more 21st century, basically. Parabolic springs are all the rage, due to giving a much improved ride, so that was what I was looking for. These are not available for the willys jeep, so I was into adapting something. Land rover aftermarket para’s were an obvious choice, and it turns out the front springs of a landy are identical in length compared to a willys jeep spring. That was too good to miss obviously, but the rear spings were more of a problem; I have been looking at just about every parabolic spring available, but nothing is quite right. Then a car set of rocky mountain springs appeared on the bay, which I snapped up, mainly for the front springs. I did offer up the rears as well, and with some measuring, I decided, they are going on too.
Parabolics vs. the rust buckets:
Mounting them was not straight forward; I tried to make use of the existing (rivet) mounting holes on the chassis. Although the front springs are the right length, they are not the same width, 2.5” as opposed to 1.75” of the Jeep, so still won’t fit. For the fixed points, I designed a bracket in CAD, that I got made by Blackbird industries; Mike Brown did a great job turning my drawing into reality, Cheers Mike:
The shackle ends I made myself. I drilled a load of holes in a 100 x 50 x 5 box section, then welded the tubes in:
A few grinding discs later, I had 4 shackle hangers:
Mounting the front was easy, the brackets being bolted to the original holes on the chassis.
The rear was more interesting, the springs being about 5” longer:
The front hanger uses one original hole, effectively move the bracket up to the next hole. and one new drilled hole, using the bracket as a drill jig:
The rear hanger uses the 2 original holes, as well as the hole used to bolt the rear crossmember in place:
The rear springs were original 3 leafs, but I removed 1 leaf out of them, turning them into 2 leaf springs
Next problem is mounting the springs to the axles. The rear was straight forward using of the shelf parts: Due to the wider springs, you cannot use the original spring plates any more, so I got Jeep CJ7 spring plates, which have 2.5” springs as well. The U bolts also won’t fit, as the spring packs are half the thickness compared to the original springs. So I found some aftermarket jeep U-bolts, that have more thread on them:
The front was more complicated. I bought CJ7 front spring plates too, but they did not fit, as they have 2” springs at the front. There is also a clashing problem with the shock absorber. I improvised for now with some wooden battings, but are going to have to make new spring plates for this to work. Heavy duty shackles are also in the works.
The springs are compressing quite a bit when I put my weight on them, which is better than the original ones, being rusted together solid.
I keep an open eye out on how the ride will be, the Mahindra is obviously lighter than the land rover they are meant for (about 150kg lighter), so we will see.
Thanks for reading,
Daan
-
6
-
2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
I'm curious as to how they did the disc conversion?
Also curious as to why they're lunching steering boxes, given I've been running on Volvos and 37's for over a decade still on my original D2 steering box.
They just turned down the Volvo hubs and drill and tapped for the studs from memory. The TD5 stud pattern is on a much smaller PCD compared to the defender one, and on this PCD there is more material available to make a strong solution.
They were usualy aiming for a top 5 position, which means 8 days of flat out in a rock and tree stump infested forest. Resulting in Carnage, usually.
-
8 hours ago, Stellaghost said:
Good into but not for my mogs unfortunately however one thing that has caught my eye is the longer spacing for bushes on td5 arms, could any one possibly tell me what this is as my d1 arms will not fit around the mog axle tubes and the td5 arms might be a good work around thanks regards Stephen
I think it is about 200 mm vs 160 mm of the defender version. But check with a tape measure before you splash the cash.
-
I can share a picture of a converted 110 from my dutch friends, taken during the Croatia trophy:
It relies heavily on discovery TD5 components, for brakes, radius arms and wheels. The TD5 arms have longer spacing between the 2 mounting points for the rubber bushes. This makes it easier to fit them to the much larger square axle tube of the volvo axle and does a better job of reacting the forces of the portal axle. The disc conversion was deemed the cheapest possible way of doing things, and can all be achieved with minimal machining effort. I think they are rear calipers, doubled up at the front, and single at the rear. Not sure what was the reasoning for this. The conversion worked, but they were eating steering boxes for breakfast, even with a hydro assist system. So that is something to think about. The rear was pretty much standard defender bracketry welded to the axle casing.
-
2
-
1
-
-
It appears, the rules have changed on retrofitted LED lights for MOT:
Stolen from another forum where this was posted by an MOT tester
The upgrading of existing halogen headlamps with HID bulbs has been a MOT fail for a few years now. However upgrading with LED bulbs was OK. Not anymore! From 11/01/2021 the MOT rules have been updated to make the fitment of LED bulbs ( in existing halogen units) a fail.
I attach the new rule for clarity.
4. Lamps, reflectors and electrical equipment
4.1.4 Headlamps - Compliance with requirements - Changed sentence from 'Existing halogen headlamp units should not be converted to be used with HID bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp.' to 'Existing halogen headlamp units should not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge (HID) or light emitting diode (LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp.'-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, Retroanaconda said:
If you’ve got recovery then I’d go for it, just don’t tell them first as most won’t cover you if you set off with a known fault!
Usefull to know...
This is why I don't rely on a land rover as my daily driver.
-
Clearly. It is the wrong forum to ask though; You knew we would all say yes.
Do your man-maths and buy it, then start a build thread here.
Daan
-
3
-
-
1 hour ago, Callum200tdi said:
I’m currently going this way as I already had a gt2052v in going with a universal waste gate controller with different spring pressure and mounting the actuator on the opposite side to push vanes open rather than pull hope this helps
Very interested to see the results.
-
MOT it, drive it.
-
4
-
-
If the colour is right, it is easy, apart from the VIN in the screen, as mentioned. I don't know how the number is mounted, and you probably get an unfavourable reply from the friendly windscreen man to assist. I would personally just swap the engine. Can the engine come out of the bottom without taking the body off?
-
The stage 1 has CV's, but you can use them.
-
Hi, thanks for this. When you say end to end, does this mean hole centre to hole centre?
Daan
-
Yes, they are.
Daan
-
1
-
-
It is 50 kg for an 8274, about half that for a low mount.
-
Some good info on shocks and shock lengths here:
http://www.heystee-automotive.com/parts/springs/shocktab.htm
-
1
-
-
On 2/15/2021 at 4:48 PM, Daan said:
Sold for £5800, now relisted due to time waster:
Sold for £6100. Looks like I bought mine at the right time.
-
Ok, I was under the impression they were the same. In that case, you are probably ok.
Daan
-
On 1/26/2021 at 11:35 AM, Snagger said:
You cannot achieve reasonable braking with disks and a standard LR non-servo system pedal and master. The callipers need far higher pressure than the drum system, so without some sort of boosting system or a mechanical system that increases leverage or uses a smaller bore, longer travel master, you just won’t get the pressure you need. It’s just physics, not opinion.
On 1/7/2021 at 10:24 AM, Cornish Rattler said:For now I'm using the std none servo master cylinder but once the rear disc brake conversion is done I will see how it goes and if needed I will buy a a better master cylinder and servo
On 1/20/2021 at 12:29 AM, Landrover17H said:I run a coiler NRC4772 servo on 4 x Heystee discs. Mine was undriveable without, and the reason is school-boy stuff,. Friction is a factor of force not area. Without a servo to make-up the force deficit now that the self-servo effect of the drums has been removed, it can't be great. Got to give it to you, you've got balls. Force from the drums now removed, if it's an improvement, what state were the drums in!
Chaps, mr rattler is going to try, and make up his mind on what he thinks. We are comparing a zeus conversion with a heystee conversion and a rangerover setup, and think that is good comparison? Do we know how the caliper piston diameters compare? It could well be that the zeus conversion is using larger pistons and therefore is ok without a booster.
So let's see how it pans out. I am more worried about the use of the same brakes at the rear as the front; This will result in too much brake bias to the rear, resulting in unplanned handbrake u-turns. I would investigate a brake pressure valve in the rear brakeline for this reason.
Daan
-
If Mr bean was a builder...
Are you going to keep it standard or is there a cunning plan? here some ideas for a decent engine:
https://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/211498/reliant-kitten-estate-blackbird-powered?page=10
Daan
-
1
-
-
It is ebay for me these days. The last time I tried to get something from my local supplier it was no cheaper and I really struggle with picking it up during office hours. Also, it is always someone in the north yorkshire who has what you want for some reason. Main thing to look out for is postage; you need to make sure what you pay is reasonable, and that is where the suppliers differ.
Some has a fixed fee, which is bad for small amounts, but others have a sliding scale which is bad for large amounts.
-
On 1/11/2021 at 3:53 PM, jeremy996 said:
More pictures from the wilds of the Inter-webs, the anticipated pick up version
I must admit, this is growing on me.
-
1
-
-
3 hours ago, Badger110 said:
I have indeed
The Puma doors are heavy and full of electric window stuff and quite frankly, not what i wanted.
I sold the 4 doors to a chap on Def2 who was building up a 130 and bought a pair of front military split doors will alu tops.
The 2nd row were abit more difficult to source as i wanted sliding windows and lift up handles and as far as i could tell, LR only produced these ' safari ' style 1 piece doors in a limited time frame on the S3? I could be wrong, but they are pretty difficult to get hold of.
I found a pair of aftermarket doors which were one piece, slidey windows and lift up handles and were, to put it mildly, carp.
The Os door doesn't follow the contour of the truck so there's a 15mm gap at the lock and the NS door frame is 10mm out along the top so standard glass wont fit! I had to get some perspex made up to fit in which in hindsight isn't the end of the world as it saves on weight
Then along came an original NS safari door from Paddocks, old stock which i bought with another aftermarket door, which actually fitted but looked like it has been used as a sledge at a gravel quarry. ( on my videos you can see i have a light coloured 2nd row door )
Spending too much money i'd had enough of carp lock locations on the doors which means the strikers are spaced out by nearly 10mm, gaps, leaks and all sorts on the aftermarket OS door and bought the SP4x4 versions which i am assured will fit with no issues.
I also paid extra for the cappings to continue the line from the front doors onto the rear doors and then down the rear panels.
Now i have 2 sets of 2nd row doors, one set which will give you a laugh should you try and fit them, the second set will fit but will require some TLC and of course my shiny new set from SP4x4
I just need to work out the colour of the door i currently have as i've fallen in love with it
Sliding windows are the proper Land rover fitment, and the future in hot climates.
-
2
-
1
-
-
On 2/8/2021 at 12:26 PM, Daan said:
This one sold a few weeks ago for about £800, but someone had 2nd thoughts by the looks of it.
I suppose a dead engine and no V5 or keys would put me off too. And someone heavy sat on the back body:
Daan
Sold for £980. I wonder how long it takes before it is relisted this time around. What is wrong with people buying stuff on ebay?
-
On 2/7/2021 at 5:58 PM, Daan said:
Sold for £5800, now relisted due to time waster:
World War Willys Jeep - from 1990 - Body mounted.
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
The VW TDI is about 150kg.
Daan