Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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I would use neither to be honest. I don't actually know what you want to do with the car; but the tyres are already 12.5 inch wide, which will mean them sticking out 2 inch already. We keep talking about scrub radius, but the fact that you go bigger in diameter, means that the scrub radius changes also, but in opposite direction.
see here:
The same is true for castor.
I would work out the scrub radius with the original design of the axle, with a 205-80/16 tyre on 33 mm offset wheels. Then work it out with a 37" on the offset wheels you have. I don't think it is that far off. You can always re centre the wolfs, as wheel spacers realy are the work of the devil.
If you are hell bound on the swivelspacers, the Kahn wide track has these, and the axels are 150 mm wider than standard. so it's been done and possible. I just cannot see it benefiting you necessarily.
Daan
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It does appear the 'S' in twisted is actually a dollar sign. But good luck to them, if they can sell at these prices, why not.
I read somewhere that they bought 200 new defenders, just before the production ended, so they are the only ones that have brand new stock (if they haven't sold them all yet).
Daan
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Go for it mike! Have you been allocated a VIN number? I had to stamp it in the chassis at the MOT station, observed by an approved MOT tester, which he then had to sign for on a DVLA form.
Daan
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Easiest would be D2 axles. But then, there is not much to be gained; it means it does not fit well in existing tracks and you will have trouble fitting in between trees. What is your issue with cutting the foot boxes?
Daan
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I drove to the SVA on the old registration ( as in the donor car that I had driven for 3 years like that already).
But you can drive it without plates, provided you insured it on the VIN number.
Daan
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Another rule that is written somewhere in the rule book but seems to get forgotten about by testers. In the week running up to the SVA, I phoned every land rover parts store in the country to try get the right speedo drive gear, without succes. I ended up going as is, only to be told that as the test centre does not have a 4wd rolling road, it s not a testable item.
Daan
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I reckon the tyres with the matt lee wheels are going to pass. It is arguable as you could call them spit rims rather than beadlocks. The whole load rating thing is a bit theoretical, as on my SVA, noone asked the question. Alternativly, the wheels on your 90 or 110 any good?
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Hi, and welcome to the madhouse. the 300 is different, but you can use the turbodiesel bellhouse to make it fit to your box. It does not solve the problem of the engine mounts, which are different and in a different postion. Also, exhaust is different as is turbo inlet and several other things. A 200 tdi is by far the easiest and will fit with all standard land rover parts. But try to find a good one is very difficult these days, or get a rebuild one. Top speed will be a bit better, and you can vary transfer case ratios to improve it further still.
Daan
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Keep at it mike. Use the weights of a 110. I used weights of a 90 and that was acceptable. Make sure you also do the trailer weight, otherwise you can only ever tow 750 kg.
Daan
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On 12/04/2018 at 6:35 PM, Bowie69 said:
Yup, go brass, a nylock will just melt and be no different to a normal nut.
On 12/04/2018 at 4:51 PM, Snagger said:Brass nuts are the norm.
On 12/04/2018 at 3:47 PM, Sheffield said:I would not use a nylock nut on an exhaust flange. I would use two stainless steel nuts as a main nut and lock nut and to cover as much of the stud as possible. This might give a chance of getting it off again without a battle in the future.
K-nuts are the nuts..
Daan
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There are basically 2 options: a Ladder bar (like fridgefreezer) or a tractionbar (like Soren has on his series 1 landrover). From a geometry point of view, a traction bar is a better solution, as a traction bar will fight the axle movement, as it forces the axle to rotate around an arc, which is not its natural movement.
This is quite well explained here (albeit on toyot landcruiser):
http://www.deckersonline.com/fj40_traction_bar
Daan
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Full lock reverse is the most common way of breaking them usually
Ashcroft are using smaller balls, so the wall thickness of the outer bell is thicker I believe. Also, the material thickness of the transition between the bell and the shaft is quite thin. Normally they break by splitting open the outer bell, but I have not seen them breaking like this.
Daan
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Interesting, did it break on full lock or in straight ahead position? With a 33" tyre it shouldn't even beginning to think about breaking.
Daan
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There are many bad stories, as you have noticed. In general, bearings, for seals and things like brakes and suspension parts I would avoid the blue box. But things like body panels and generally things that your and others life don't depends on, it will quite often safe you quite a bit of money.
You pushed the boat out a bit with the shocks, but even so, let us know if they turned out to be good. It does happen occasionally.
Also, beware of people trying to sell you OEM parts which then turns up as blue box. There are quite a few people doing this on Ebay.
Daan
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Does fridge still have his Ibiza for sale?
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You are not the only one with bad luck. This is me 2 weeks ago with my ultra reliable Polo waiting for the AA man:
There is a primary fuel filter next to the tank which corroded through and immediately lost fuel pressure and stopped; VW dealer has never replaced one before and had to wait a week for a replacement. Positives: it wasn't raining and an excuse to use my landy to get to work!
You do need a dependable car though.
Daan
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Hi, and welcome to the madhouse.
To answer your question: it would probably cost more than your car is worth. (I am not aware of the state of the rest of the car obviously, feel free to post up some pictures and specs).
All is not bad, as you can buy complete new wiring looms for not a lot.
Just choose the loom which is closest to the spec of car you have and replace the loom.
Here:
https://www.autosparks.co.uk/finder/car/land_rover
Let us know about your car and your future plans, we are all in the same boat and willing to help!
Daan
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If you go to the shotblasters, can you leave the rear crossmember and front dumbirons off? That way, you could get them to blast the inside with a lance, then weld it back together and galvanize it. That would give you the best end result, even with a single dip.
I have used Peterborough galvanizers and Southampton Galvanizers. The Peterborough one was absolutely brilliant, the Southampton one was garbage.
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The milemarker winch used the existing PAS pump. It is slow that way, but I have seen people using it. For occasional use should work ok.
Another option would be to go to a 1.2 transfer box so you can loose the overdrive. Will go a treat on ebay!
PTO's rule , but you know that already.
Daan
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You are not meant to say Why me? You are meant to say Try me!
Or as they everything will be ok in the end. If it is not, it is not the end yet.
More pearls of wisdom?
Daan
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Main thing for any drum brake rear axle is if the wheel bearing is finished; I had this on the front axle of the S3, and the only way I noticed was that the wheel had a lot of camber. The hub stayed with the front driveshat with the circlip. No such luck at the back though, as the diff end is not held captive.
On disc axles, the hub will always stay captive with the brake caliper.
I had recently a wheel coming loose, which I had done up with a rattle gun. I just did it up until I heard it rattle. But the thread was contaminated , which caused the wheel nut to seize on the thread, rather than on the wheel. Luckily, you get a warning, as you can hear there is a wheel loose. I now always do up by hand to be sure.
Also be carefull if you change a wheel in the mud; if there is dirt in between the mounting face and the wheel, that could work loose.
I had an old wheel once that seem to have worn on the nut contact faces; you could do it up tight, but it would come loose after a few miles; There was no real solution short of binning this wheel.
I don't think wheel size or offset is going to remotely worry the stud pattern, the M16 studs on that diameter are way overkill. People have been using massive 40" tyres with big offsets and not break the studs.
I know it is not very clear from the picture, but It looks to me that the disco has alloy wheels with spacers as they stick out side the body and has wheel arch extensions. The spacers are not preferred in my opinion, especially when they are aluminium; they can relax and the wheel can work loose, with disastrous results. But as said it is early to draw conclusions. It will be worth keeping an eye on what happened on this occasion as i am sure there will be an investigation. It is a tragedy though.
Daan
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I don't have one.
Daan
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It usually involves flipping the axle casing (which can be done by unbolting the ends I think and rotate. The main problem is that these axles are too long and need shortening, which also needs a shorter driveshaft. Then you need a pinon conversion to connect the landrover propshafts to the axles. There are parts available on the shelf for all this, so a quick google should give you all you need.
For sure someone on here did all of this so can tell you more than I can.
Daan
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This guy has been busy. Check out the double transfer case.
qoute: its basically a super model wife thats high maintainence but well worth it!!
This time also posted in the correct thread...
Daan
300TDi overhaul
in International Forum
Posted
The crank probably will need attention to the main bearings and main journals at this mileage; it is probably worth trying to find a good used one?
Daan