Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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You will probably solve the problem by cutting them down, but the next problem is that they will get pushed out while driving; The plastic cap wont hold it and your wheels will get covered in oil. This I have had myself. You could try to create a splined spacer behind the drive member to prevent this from happening. I must say though that the narrower hub is a bad design for many reasons: there is less spline engagement as you noticed and the bearings a re closer together which gives less strength. I don't think the shafts from the link above will work. They are most probably from a rover axle and longer than the salisbury shafts. If they are from a salisbury axle, they will work.
Daan
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Reading it back, the 3 bearing and 5 bearing bell housing are different in the oil seal area, plus the starter motor issue. The 380 has a different stud pattern as well I think, so you probably need a 300 tdi bell house on the engine.
Daan
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On 22/06/2017 at 9:40 PM, twodoorgaz said:
Hello folks.
Can anyone advise if this will work without of course impeding the performance of the engine?
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2.25 Timing cover inc. water pump & 4-bladed fan, pulleys and starting handle crank dog. yes, except the crank dog, you can cut this off and weld it to the new crank bolt. Also, if there is a timing belt now, you need to pull a core plug out of the oil gallery.
- 17H Sump yes
- 2.25 Alternator mounts. yes
- 2.25 Engine mounts yes
- 2.25 Oil filler tube to side of block yes
- 2.25 Lift pump (this one already has one, though I did think it should have been electric) yes
- 2.25 Cylinder head and thermostat neck (*NB the head will be going to ACR for stage 2.1, so don't think it matters whether the donor is 2.25 or 2.5 - hardened valve seats if coming from a 2.5) yes
- 17H Inlet/exhaust manifolds and correct Webber carb (have found a set already) - BUT I'm also saving to see if I can run to the ACR SU kit plus manifolds which can fit both the 2.25 and 2.5 - this would be ideal as it looks lovely and period. Realise the 2.25 zenith will fit, but suspect it will strangle the engine. yes
- Stage 1 V8 cable throttle and 17H cable (easy to knock something up but I have both already) not sure
- 17H Flywheel and housing (its being bolted to a stumpy R380 so I have so no need to worry about this) yes
- 17H Starter motor (plus slight alteraton to wiring) - seems smaller and more powerful than the standard Series fare. no, it is a 3 bolt starter motor
- 17H Spin-on oil filter yes
- 2.25 rocker cover yes
- 2.25 heater hoses and connectors yes
- Standard Lucas dizzy (or MJ if I get giddy) yes
- Painting the block duck egg blue (wrong for a 5MB, but right for a IIA) yes
- Custom exhaust - either Steve Parker's off the shelf one or ACR's off the shelf one to match the manifold. yes
- Finally - for the 2.25 donor bits, does it matter if these are the common imperial ones (thinking the head here mainly) or the rarer late metric items? I'm guessing if I use the correct fasteners then it doesn't matter but would welcome confirmation. Just mix them...
Daan
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2.25 Timing cover inc. water pump & 4-bladed fan, pulleys and starting handle crank dog. yes, except the crank dog, you can cut this off and weld it to the new crank bolt. Also, if there is a timing belt now, you need to pull a core plug out of the oil gallery.
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Little sideline in Mini Marcos body panels?
Daan
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13 hours ago, miketomcat said:
We need a build thread for this I came quite close to buying a C304 once.
Mike
We do.
Daan
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Knowing the reliabilty of the electrics on my landy, I wouldn't want lives depending on it somehow.
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I still think 2 small VNT turbos, both from 3 cylinders each , then merge them together to go through the intercooler would be very much the way to go. making two identical 3 way manifolds is much easier than 1 off 6 way manifold. The turbos can be small and cheap, and will spool up really quick. Compound means you end up with a large and really large turbo in the engine bay. It would be very expensive, very difficult to package, complicated piping route and probably do little at low RPM.
All you need to do then is sort out the VNT control.
Daan
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can you cycle it out on cad? I think the lower links so far back on the rear axle could have a bad result when you get a big hit on a wheel.
the axle might rotate around the upper axle pivot and the lower links go past dead centre and move upwards.
Daan
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Quite how you consider another resto at the same time is beyond me, it must be an irish multi tasking thing. I always find my mind is too busy already doing just one.
Keep up the good work!
Daan
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I think the next big thing is replicas with modern running gear. There is the Mini remasterd, the MGB Abingdon edition and the eagle e-type. I would say a lot of people love the shape of the old classics but don't want to put up with unreliability and performance of them. Modifying the old clunkers is reducing the value, hence a new build makes sense. There is plenty of heritage bodyshells available now, so the biggest part is already there.
Daan
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Mine is a defender one I believe (bought on sodbury sortout, but I am pretty certain it is). The chassis is a shortened defender 90. I have not many piccys available right now of the complete thing. The crossmember is my own addition though. it is 89", with a standard 88" rear prop at the back, and an early 90 rear prop at the front, to give you an idea about gearbox location.
chassis pic, with my old disk brake setup:
Daan
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Your rear cross member is in the way (depending on where you fitted your gearbox). I did fit one to mine, but it was a bit involved. Have a look on my thread, page 8.
Daan
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bash it very hard with a hammer, straight on the head to loosen up rust in the thread. If you use an extractor, either square or straight fluted one. The tapered expanding thread type only seems to expand the nipple and make the problem worse in my experience.
Daan
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I don't remember seeing it mentioned it anywhere else. But the term says it all.
Daan
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Interesting conversion, keep the updates coming!
Daan
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My chassis was done in peterborough, and they did a lovely job. Later I got my bumper done in southampton as it was closer since I moved and it was so-so. So there is certainly difference in quality between them, even if they almost all work under the Wessex banner. Also bear in mind they may be able to ship stuff for you, but the shipping I got quoted for the chassis was more than the galvanising itself.
Daan
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Ok, A friend made me aware of my appearance on the shortlist of the LRO calendar - twice!
So I you have a moment spare please vote for me...
And maybe have my landy as a pin up of the month!
Daan
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I would try to source a V8 santana box and use the v8 clutch, as fridge says. I don't understand that the 130 clutch is not able to transfer more torque; it has a bigger diameter, so all being equal, that should make things better.
How do you find the 3.1? Would be great to see a feature in special build vehicles.
Daan
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stainless steel exhaust.
Mot.
Daan
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Hi, this looks like series 3 to me, which was build from 1972.
Daan
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Along with the ride height, the rear axle is quite weak in stock form on a swb. Change it to the Long wheel base Salisbury axle will keep things alive.
Daan
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To be fair, a land rover chassis is 2mm wall, and unless you crash it, almost never bends. You just need to stop it rusting.
Daan
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I even got a mention on page 2:
Then there's this...
Bobbing back and forth, the slot for his Mother’s 10p sits in the driver’s door.
Ok, he probably means this is a toy.
But, yes, they are banded by 2" which gives you a cheaper and wider end result than standard deep dish rims (they are 5.5" td5 rims, widened to 7.5"). This gives you a 8mm offset, like a weller 8 spoke or a modular wheel.
I have to say, the writer could not have chosen his name better.
Daan
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The EBay Christ I fancy that 4x4 + its cheap thread
in International Forum
Posted
found via facebook, not cheap by the way:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282572104314?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649&clk_rvr_id=1264756307092&rmvSB=true
It looks like my landy is valuable, or is that just wish full thinking?
Daan