Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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7 hours ago, Snagger said:
If the waisted section is thinner than the inner diameter of the splines section, like the groove is, then that shouldn't happen, in theory... But the torsional forces are the same whether you have a 1mm groove or a long section of that diameter. I'n not sure how extending the groove into a length is going to reduce stresses and thus fatigue on the shaft. As long as the groove is radiused, not sharp cornered, I don't know whether waisting has an advantage over grooving.
I suspect preventing the splines from twisting in the gear is why the Salisbury shafts were waisted on the 300Tdi and Td5, as opposed to the straight shafts of the 200 and earlier. But waisting a shaft that length rather than retaining the full diameter and grooving it may have more tangible weight and production (materials) cost benefits.
The strength will be the same, however, the groove is a stress raiser, whereas the wasted section is a gradual change in section (if it is made with a nice large radius tool); meaning that the groove will fail sooner as locally the stress is much higher (it will fail at a lower breaking point due to fatigue). There is no give in it. if you waste it over the whole length it will flex much more, taking out big torque spikes.
I understand what is being achieved with the fuse idea, but if you know the limits of the axles and upgrade everything else, I cannot really see the point. Don't go bigger than 35" tyres with ashcroft stuff and it will live in my experience.
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14 hours ago, Snagger said:
Hence the groove to ensure failure happens before the splines become twisted, ensuring easy removal and replacement. Get rid of the groove and the ease of shearing, and you are back to damaging CVs and diffs.
But this: If you are going to do it, machine it down to the chosen diameter over its full length.
At least than a failure is due to overloading, not fatigue.
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I personally don't know anyone who uses these. I suppose if you don't offer the CV to go with it, it's a bit of an incomplete solution, as a business to offer and potentially not many people buying spares for their old fashioned KAM setup. If you just investigate the option and have a solution ready than someone who asks for it could order it as and when required (like KAM used to do...) If you were to do the whole hog, maybe a product improvement would be worthwile: That notch in the shaft is just a really bad solution for fatigue. If you are going to do it, machine it down to the chosen diameter over its full length. Then the next question, what do you do at the back? I know there is less to go wrong in the back axle, but the abuse the rear axle gets is much more than the front, so a solution here would be more welcome. The problem in general is, people want to buy stuff that does not break. Which makes this solution a bit of a non starter, hence very few people going for it.
For what its worth, I run standard (weak) 24 spline flanges, as opposed to strengthened ones, as this is indeed the part I want to go wrong. Its much easier (and cheaper) to swap the drive flange than it is to replace the KAM shaft (or the 10 spline flange as Soren suggested) , it still needs extracting from the CV, and what if you cant get it out?
Daan
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Another vote for 255/85/16. I had this on my old 88" when it was leaf sprung. Great size, as narrow as it gets on this diameter, so good for turning circle and steering lightness. Larger diameter good for off road clearance and on road speed. Also drilling the top kingpins and fit grease nipples did wonders for steering lightness on my old series.
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You would want one of those guys with you when you go off roading! you always get home.
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Hi Lloyd, welcome to the fold. Looks like you are doing a neat job there. More details and pictures welcome!
Daan
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That has been done up to hard by the looks of it.
I suppose I have to end this reply with pearls of wisdom : Advice is what you ask for if you already know the answer, but wish you didn't!
Daan
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Do an event?
Daan
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Most of the weight of the chassis is actually in the cross members. The main rails are 2mm (or less when very rusty!), so no scope for loosing weight to be honest. The cross members, however, are very much over the top for what they need to be. I lost 30 kgs from the cross members.
Other ideas are anything cast, like the panhard rod and bracket, the radius arms and a-frame. Make those all fabricated and the result will improve drastically.
Daan
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The exhaust passes the chassis rail under the seatbase. I will try get a piccy later.
Daan
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Must say, Bearmach seems to have the price/quality ratio about right in my opinion. Otherwise Genuine.
Daan
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I still have 1 slip joint in the system. This was mainly because of space restrictions (together with a stainless screw clamp you can get to about 66 mm diameter). The good thing about having at least 1 slip joint in the system is that there is still a bit of adjust-ability in the length of the system. This can be important as the welding may warp the tube slightly, and the exhaust will expand when hot, which could make the fit not as intended.
Daan
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have a look at my last instalment of my hybrid.
Daan
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V bands, definitely. What diameter pipe are you using?
Daan
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Does the sump leaks at the back? Probably the T-seals needs replacing (involves removing the last main bearing cap). crank seals are among the usual suspects to. If you replace any running seals, check if the sealing surface is smooth.
Daan
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On 29/10/2017 at 7:33 PM, TSD said:
the ibex build is under way
A build thread would be great, and would spur on Mike to get his finger out.
Daan
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The golden engine... Nice job!
Daan
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21 hours ago, reb78 said:
I got fed up of failing lift pumps and fitted an electric one. The weird thing is that the 110 goes just as well if I forget to turn it on!
I find replacing it with something electric rather scary myself. As you noticed, it does actually run without it, so you can always come home by bypassing the pump.
Daan
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It looked like a DC100, but less curvy.
Daan
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9 hours ago, ThreeSheds said:
The last time I had a serious puncture (one that meant I needed to use the spare) was 30 years ago
You are on Borrowed time.
Daan
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I didn't have time to get my phone.
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Great result on a budget!
Are you not carrying a spare wheel on the stage?
Good to see that a landrover based vehicle with the old TDI can still produce results as well. Although i am sure you'd rather have him behind you...
Daan
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I reckon I have seen the new defender prototype in white and black painting though.
LRO
in International Forum
Posted
Interesting, but it is the same as the predecessor of this forum. I do think a forum needs to be independent from a magazine for it to work. As for Facebook, I haven't find much content with any depth to it.
Daan