selectcase

Thanks for the info

HI my 300 tdi bulkhead needs the usual repairs but rather than remove it and do it in a rush I have a spare 200 tdi bulkhead that needs the same amount of work, the plan is to do the 200tdi one at my leisure then do the swap over a few days - apart from the odd bracket are there any differences that could cause issues? thanks will

great thanks the vehicle is new to me and has bright yellow springs all round(probably britpart), I am not sure if it has a 2" lift or not so will need to check -I did notice it wallows around corners at reasonable speed (40mph+) on the drive home after purchase so I will probably check the ride height and check out my options.. I will probably go the hd rear spring route tbh thanks will

Ok thanks ...yes self levelling would make sense.

HI I have recently bought a 1998 110 csw and i notice that the rear centre shock in the A frame is leaking, is this the correct name for it as I cannot find any references to it on the web anywhere and was looking for a replacement it has a large circular reservoir at one end thanks will

2 kids and my budget is around 5k...i think i will keep looking for a csw project

HI I am after your opinions\experience please I have been looking for an older 110 CSW but I am on a limited budget so a project would be fine..my main criteria is that i need to also transport my kids aged 7 & 13 as well a tow heavy loads at times. I was wandering if it was worth considering converting a 110 with forward facing rear seats as I will get a better vehicle initially for my money but the cost of doing a conversion properly looks to be in the region of 1K with the conversion kit & seats etc..would i be best to keep looking for a CSW or is this a worthwhile consideration\conversion?

ok thanks they are the same pair on the front but a different make to the rear so I will get them swapped

HI I have just bought an 03 plate Freelander and the garage have put 2 new tyres on the front - I have read on the net they should be replaced in sets of 4 to prevent vcu wear is the correct? thanks will

Personally i would stick with the original box if its just for pottering about or ashcroft did do a conversion for either the lt77 or r380 to make them selectable 2 and 4wd avoiding all the drivetrain problems - then you just need to conversion plate for the engine to gearbox - i would price this carefully as 200tdi's go cheap nowadays and dont need any expesnive conversion/adaptor plates and you can bolt series engine mounting directly to them so no cutting/welding of engine mounts. Its amazing how the costs start to add up with these conversions so weigh it all up carefully personally i would go the 200tdi or maybe the 300tdi route - lots of info and help available on this conversion as its so popular

Interesting thread this - I have reciently fitted a valeo 130 heavy duty clutch to my 98 disco and i get a vibration at between 2000 - 2500 rpm that transfers through and is very annoying - i have checked everythingelse so it looks like my gearbox may be coming out again just to rotate the damm clutch 180 degrees

it does sound like a poor earth somewhere - there are some small earth wires located just under the fuse box in the engine bay that fix to the inner wing - are they ok?

To answer my own question - you can use a 200tdi pump lock screw as its a perfect fit but i did not need it as i replaced the cambelt at the same time

I want to remove the fuel injection pump on my 98 300tdi and as i have the tool to keep the pully in place it should be a fairly simple procedure however unlike the 200tdi pump there is no pump locking screw and keeper plate - just a hex hedded bolt which makes no differance if you remoce it or not - the new pump I have is exactly the same yet the haynes manual shows a 300tdi pump with bolt and keeper plate anyone else come across this - it maybe the case that you dont have the option to lock the later type pumps anymore? incidently - got a great deal on a brand new injection pump from Matford land rover via ebay for £399

I fitted these to my series and it really made a differance - just be careful to drill the hole just right so its a good fit - relativly simple job all in all

Sorry its been one of those days - its a 98 disco 300tdi and the link you supplied sounds exactly like the problem I have - thanks for that I can sleep easy now. cheers

Having finally replaced the clutch I now have a rattle at tickover its only when in neutral at tickover - if i depress the clutch fully it stops, it makes no noise when in gear and changes up and down perfectly and smoothly. so no noises when actually driving unless stopped in neutral its just like a rattly bearing/clatter but if i turn the tickover up to 1k then it calmes right down as well to a quiet rumble but cuts out completly when in gear/driving- initially i thought it might be the release bearing but that would be when i depressed the clutch not when its in neutral? anyone any ideas? cheers will

You only have to look at the tech archive - Lota of good solid advice from Les There

Thanks Les - i will leave it then

Glad I didnt bet you Les or it would be £5k per week for the rest of my life

Managed to get the last bolt off this morning - used a new surface drive socket 1/2 inch drive to make sure it didnt slip - a range of extension bars and reducer down to 3/8 drive and 1 uj half way along to allow it to angle up in to the centre console/gearstick hole - 45 minutes to get this combination sorted but thank got it worked - that nut is not going back on Thanks to Les for his excellent article on removing the centre console for access - couldnt have done it wthout that

I have got the engine out to do the clutch fork and while I am at it I am replacing the cambelt - the haynes manual has a tension of 14 - 16nm and the camblet change thread by Les has 21nm - i have initialy opted for 16nm as it feels tight enough however please tell me if you think this is wrong. The other question is the hex bolt on the cambelt tensioner bearing - my engine is a late one that does not need any mod kits but there was no washer between the hex head bolt and the bearing - i replaced it without a washer but am now thinking maybe there should be one there that was missed on the last change? anyone come across this before? cheers will

Next time you need to do this job nip in to C&D motor parts in colley lane and pick up a gunsons pressure bleeder - its a cheap way of pressure bleeding the system and cured all my braking problems

Well today was a difficult and demorilisig day, I have done loads of engine changes, gearbox jobs on various landrovers i have owned over the years but not a 300tdi disco before. I removed the mounts and lowered the engine as far a possible until the timing cover just touched the power steering box and those bolts are still damm difficult - I got all of them apart from the top central one which i will attempt tomorrow - i can reach it with extension bars but of course its in line with the gearstick - i have even removed the central console etc to improve access but that top one looks a Bu**er to get to and undo - the others were really tight and needed a 1/2 drive torque wrench to get them to move any advice on the last one greatly appriciated.

Thanks for the offer but I picked one up at Tor on Friday - Nearly got the engine out - I am going the engine route as there are a few other jobs i need to do with the engine out. I just have to get the bolts off the bellhousing today - oh joy oh rapture - not.