selectcase

Sticking strictly to the topic I think you have allready answered your own question - go for the auto if you think they are the best. Off topic - if I had a series 1 107 i would try to keep it as original as possible as they are getting very scarce

ok cheers - i have got the cables now so will do cheers will

Just a bsic question really for you winch experts I only use this winch for self recovery when out greenlaning so its light use really. I have to re-locate my battery to the rear tub and was wandering if i had to take both battery leads from the winch to the battery directly or can i just take the positive to the battery and the negative to a good earth e.g.chassis. my battery has a qood quality connection to earth with appropiate diameter cable and this would help save some work. cheers will

At one time in the 80's and early 90's an agricultural company called LF Jewell ltd had the roadless franchise and exported spares abroad mostly they had the the County franchise and they also produced tractors with compressors called jewellair, they were a ford main dealer with about 10 outlets around the westcountry. They folded around 1995.

Thanks for that - I can get on with some wiring when the rain stops

I Just need to check that I have the wiring right on this alternator as it seems almost too simple which usually means something is wrong? Its a Denso A127-65 the terminal B+ goes to the battery positive (thick brown wire) is it worth putting a fusable link in this? the terminal D+ goes to the warning light (brown with yellow light) I dont know where the white wire coming from the terminal marked W goes? perhaps a rev counter or something? thanks will

I imagine its beacuse of the stories about them eating series gearboxes & drivetrain however i suppose its down to how you drive it?

here is a link to the write up on it 200tdi na

Thanks for the info - it helps to know what is interchangable cheers will

someone has done it on the series 2 club forum and is reporting very favourable results.

one to watch out for if you use a disco engine is that the turbo will hit the chassis rails on a 109 but its ok on an 88. I am not sure if the 6cylnder chassis is any differant though?

teach computig at an FE college, mainly programming and database design before that i was a mechanic and previous to that a farmer

Hopefully an easy one to answer? the oil cooler pipe connections male and female on the 200tdi are they 1/2 bsp and does anyone know if the 2.5td ones are the same? I may keep the series rad in my 88 rad and use a remote oil cooler, its all part of the plan so i can fit electric fans, intercooler etc and still keep an original look to the truck. thanks in advance will

ok - thats the kind of quick and certain answer i was looking for cheers. I had better stop being lazy and start working out where/how to fit it

I am nearing the end of my 200tdi conversion in to my series and was wandering if It was imperitive to use the intercooler as its going to be a pain to fit along with the electric fans. I can live with the loss of a few bhp if it will run ok without one but I dont want to risk damaging the engine if its going to raise the intake temp to high or someting else that might damage the engine?

I had a specific list and managed to get nearly everything i needed outstanding for my 200tdi conversion 300tdi front pipe for £15 2 metre lengh of 2.5' flexi exhaust £10 200tdi air filter box £10 but the best bargain was a second hand set of twin kenlowe fans with fitting kit and reostat temp sensor all bolts, nuts etc for £30 I am well chuffed but it takes a long time to get round all the stalls - i was looking non stop and it took 5 hours to get round I saw about 5 s2 gearboxes and i need one but they are just too heavy to get back to the car I also saw a v8 bieng carried away in a wheel barrow excellent day all in all WALFY if i knew it was you selling the r packs i would have stopped for a chat

Sorry - I may have caused some confusion here, what i am talking about are the crankshaft cog for driving the cambelt and the pully damper - they both slide on the crank shaft and locate via the 2 woodruf keys. As they are frequently siezed on the crank when attempting to change a cambelt requiring a puller to get them off the shaft I was thinking of using a little antisieze compound but they appear to have been assembled on the shaft with loctite. I am using new woodruf keys, new crank cog etc so everything is squeaky clean - hope that clarifies it

I am about to reassemble the cambelt, pullys etc. The crank *& keyways are in good condition and i was wandering what you guys do about assembling the crank pully & damper together. Do you use anti sieze assembly so they are not such a bugger to get off the next time or loctite to stop them coming loose? I know you use loctite on the crank bolt threads. cheers will

I would say its the wrong pump. I know the injectors for the n/a and turbo are the same and the turbo will need more fuel injected for the denser air going in so it must be the injection pump that is calibrated for greater delivery and hense perhaps the smoking?

I ordered genuine big end bolts and main bolts for my 200tdi re-build but have been sent what i think are non-genune items. the originals were ATLAS but the replacements are METALAC they have a webiste but its brazillian and i was wandering if anyone knew if thier products were ok. btw land rover will only sell main bearing bolts in packets of 20!! at £2.15 each + vat Why 20 it hardly engourages you go go genune when you have to buy unrealistic quantities

Thanks for the advice i will get some cheers

I am nearly at the point of re-assembling my 200tdi engine , its had a re-bore, new pistons, shells etc and i was wandering what oil to use on the bearings,seals, bores etc during the re-build to help preserve it until i fit it and run it up if you see what i mean? ta will

Hopefully soon i will be getting round to re-assembling my 200tdi engine - i will be using new big end nuts & bolts and was wandering wether it was worth using a little thread locking compound for a bit more security or is this a bad idea?

I seem to remember reading somewhere this could be a sticky egr valve as well - you can blank them off cheaply and easily

I have seen the honing tools for sale in halfords - 3 legged for about £25 - can i politley suggest you cover the water & oilway holes on the block face as you dont want bits of carbon/muck blocking the oilways. cheers will