benthng

Solved it. Removed previously fitted lift pump spacer. Apparently this causes the pump to be too far away from cam lobe and not pump with enough pressure. Fuel was sucked entirely by injection pump and which is now overworked. Engine idles well and driveablec but not as powerful as before.

This is turning into another nightmare.. Cleaned out the sedimenter, replaced new fuel lift pump and bled air too but no joy. Engine still stall after running for a while. Any suggestions?

Thanks for the tips, checked wire connection to pump solenoid it's nice and tight. I have increase fueling a little by adjusting the FIP smoke screw and increase idling rpm to 950. No joy it stalled out on me twice just now while driving. Starts up straight away though unless engine bay too hot ( that's starter solenoid another issue altogether). Anyway the lift pump seems to be functioning as I had just bled the diesel filter (drained the lower water screw too... No water just diesel came out). Checked for blockage of FIP fuel return banjo bolt too. Cleaned it with brake cleaner and a small strand of wire thru the tiny orifice. Problem feels somewhat like air bubble in the fuel line causing fuel starvation. Will take it for longer drive and see what happens.

Hi all, happy new year 2014. The disco had been trouble free for some time, completed a 6000 km cross country trip happily cruising at 120km/hr with no issues. But over the past 3 days the engine almost stalled on 2 occasions, at both times the symptoms are as follows: RPM momentarily drops slightly below 300 rpm when de-accelerating (foot off pedal) just within 1km of starting up from cold Up a slight incline say 10 degree Diesel filter was change 7,000km ago and fuel sedimentor was also drained at same time. Fuel Injection Pump (FIP) stop solenoid was replaced and FIP was also overhauled by Bosch specialist 17,000km ago. No visible signs of fuel leakage from related fuel lines inside of engine bay. Any suggestions on where to start checking? Thanks in advance Ben

Hi Gary, I have similar problems for past few months, starter struggles to turn over after a long drive. In my case I strongly suspect it's the Spider Immobiliser circuit board faults (check out bogmonster,a post in discovery forum LR4x4). Having not enough time to remove dash panel to for a permanent repair. I did a quick fix... Wire up a relay at the starter motor using your original trigger wire to signal the relay (85) and taking power (30) directly from starter. That should provide stronger current (87) to run the starter solenoid, Ben

Perplexing, supposing FIP and other settings is same old same old then performance and egt should not run out. Maybe the fuel injection timing may have move a bit (retard) due to wear on the previous crank shaft keyway etc or if you have had it timed exactly per previous with piezo then ... different quality of fuel or engine oil? Best regards, Ben

Nissan Cefiro twin dual speed fan fits very well too, it's a teensy bit longer otherwise almost clip on. Can be used with Alfa 33 dual stage temperature switch thread size M22 which will fit the existing manifold. IIRC it trips on at 88 C off at 83 for low fan speed and the 2nd switch point at 93C and off at 88c

Found the problem, a blanking plug came off a 1/4" bsp hole that I tapped off the end of the intake manifold. It was one of those clever things that was done last year. Saw it when I shone a torch thru the intake hose end after a head scratching moment... As cleanng the sedimenter filter lift pump etc didn't work. Again thanks for all the advice. Puzzling how the plug came off though.

Waste gate rod can move forward and retract under very from spring tension, did not remove circlip though was afraid cant get it back on with the very narrow space. What are the chances of a chunk of carbon holding the gate open? Will clean sendimenter and change filter for now hoping its not a faulty lift pump and not stuck waste gate. Thanks guys.

Hi all Need help again, non edc auto disco normally spools up to 14 psi quickly but this morning struggled to reach 6psi even at 2000 rpm uphill. Air hoses checked ok, fuel pump aneroid diaphragm and intercooler not leaking, intake turbine spins with no free play, waste gate rod moves with spring tension. I am stumped and would greatly appreciate any ideas.

Hi if u like to experiment with controlling turbo boost for more power u can install a Dawes Device manual boost controller. See link for a DIY http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=103279 Do fit a boost gauge to help adjust so u won't overdo the boost and a exhaust temp gauge would be useful if u need to tune air fuel mixture to make the best use out of the MBC. Cheers

The loss of drive is caused by worn out Torque Converter, specifically splines in the Turbine Hub Runner are completely worn. Will try to attach photo.

Hi all Auto transmission rebuilders confirmed Torque Converter is faulty and will replace a gear inside the TC. Hopefully no more problems after reassembly. Thanks for all the advice, cheers Ben

Quick update from the garage; no hydraulic pressure, fluids looks good and pink and filter looks clean. They thinking likely TC or pump. Removing the gear box this afternoon. Hopefully just those. Ben

No time to open it up myself as my in laws are visiting, sending it to a mechanic friend. Will keep posted. Best regards Ben

Hi! just thought to share some ideas in case u are still having problems with the lumpy idle and smoke. Likely to be timing related, try advancing the fuel pump slightly (what feels like 1mm at spanner end) in small increments until it fixes the lumpy idle. If it still smoke with a strong diesel smell then it's likely the cam timing may be a little retarded. All the best Ben

Checked the diff lock hi Li already not that unfortunately, unlikely to be the flex plate coz it looked fine a month back when I had the engine out. But thanks for the tip to check if P can be engaged coz did not check that yet.

Thanks for the tips Bowie. Not able to get any drive in reverse or any of the forward gears. Will check transfer box and pump tomorrow morning as suggested together with cable and selector links as well. Hopefully something not too disastrous .. Ben

The auto box cannot engage any gear. The loss of drive occurred suddenly on a highway. No noise or judder and just free wheel to a stop on lay-by. Checked ATF level ok and color still pinkish. Also check prop shaft and tried Shifting diff lock hi low lock etc. Never worked on an auto before, would appreciate advice on: 1. What should I be checking on. 2. How to check torque converter 3. If not leaking should oil seals be changed 4. Assuming ATF not brown in color can it be reused to test repair job and to change together with filter after, Many thanks.

From description seems like its under power... Struggle pulling off, apply too muchpedal, black smoke. Is it smoking on idle with air con on or Have the fuel timing been retarded previously? Cause might be: 1. (Smoke on pulling off) FIP retard causing low power then resetting it would restore performance response and consequentially reduce the black smoke. If still smoke then reduce fueling by adjusting smoke screw. 2. (Smoke after pulling off) Boost compensator diagphram Spring or Eccentric fuel pin on FIP set too soft or too rich causing too rich a fuel mixture Hopefully the attached link is useful http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=42547 Ben

Great to know its all done up, congratulations

Yep root cause was timing problem and a series of mishaps.. Started with aggressive tuning of fuel injection pump and turbo boost 22 psi.. Happy disco .. Over torque rocker stud led to loose pedestal and a broken rocker shaft .. Decided to overhaul cyl head with new valve rods and springs etc also new rings crank and big end bearings real happy disco.. Spring no. 3 broke... Costly repair .. Not so happy.. Then slipped belt and broke spring no. 4 broke.. Now all fixed but starter solenoid has gone bad. It's tough loving a LR.

Sorted out, it was just a timing issue. Cam was 1 tooth retarded and fuel pump was 1 1/2 tooth advanced. Thereafter Fine tuning of fuel pump pulley. Sorry about the false alarm.

Hi garfum As said above its not a difficult DIY job just tedious, You need the following: Tools: 1. 1/2" socket set & torque wrench as stated above 2. VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR otherwise it will be a very long day 3. 1 set Feeler Gauge (to check valve standdown / piston height) 4. 1' Steel Ruler (to check cyl. head for warpage) 5. Valve lapping hand tool (rubber suction cup on wooden stick) 5. Plastic Scraper (to scrap old gasket etc of head / block) 6. 300 tdi Overhaul Manual http://www.google.com.my/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CC0QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.landroverresource.com%2Fdocs%2F300TDi_Overhaul_Manual.pdf&ei=HALJUeWeEZDQrQeXmYC4Dw&usg=AFQjCNGN_xukI_FMyt7csezW_2obba00xw&sig2=d54v79wUgPwahw-JPDw29w&bvm=bv.48293060,d.bmk 7. Note book & Pen to record measurements & faults found Supplies & Parts (to be determined after visual inspections): 1. Hi temp Gasket Maker (1 tube) 2. Valve Grinding Paste 3. Gasket Paper (if u removing to look see the Thermostat / Water Pump) 4. ELRING Head Gasket (correct thickness to be determined after measuring piston height) 5. Manifold Gasket (any brand but must have metal insert matching exhaust header) 6. Valve stem Rubber Seals - 8 pcs 7. Rocker Cover Gasket Optional Parts if Really Bad Luck 1. If rockers loose - valve caps may be missing 2. if rocker shaft loose - check stud / bolts / pedestal and also shaft for breakage 3. If push rod bent (roll it on flat table) - check tappet slide for damage 4. If valve cant slide freely - then its bent and its seat will be bad 5. If valve can shake within its slide - valve slide is worn and need to replace 6. Check valve landing area and valve seat for excessive pitting - otherwise hand lap & regrind 7. Check valve collet (tiny clips for valve stem) - change if in doubt 8. Measure all valve spring (straight and same height) - if change use only LR Oriiginal (britpart broke on 2 occasions) 9. Visually check piston bores, if cross hatching still evident leave it alone Procedures and Step by Step Guides: 1. Cyl Head Takeoff by Les Henson http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=8179 2. MEASURING PISTON HEIGHT, checking Cyl Bore & determine Head Gasket Thickness - see 300 TDI Overhaul Manual 3. Check Cyl Head for warpage & cracks (see Overhaul Manual) - dont worry about regrinding, plenty of meat before its over 4. MEASURE VALVE STAND DOWN (Overhaul Manual) and lap / grind valve to tolerance level - dont worry if its grinded in a little too much as long as the seats are still thick enough 5. Reuse the Head Bolts (reuseable 5 times) unless damaged or u had them remove twice already coz bloke before u did 3 6. When installing head to block - make sure the dowels in place on the head and put in the last 2 head bolts & tie them so they dont get in the way (otherwise u cant get the bolts in when head is on the block). 7. BOLT DOWN ACCORDING TO SEQUENCE AS STATED IN ELRING HEAD GASKET PRODUCT SHEET (same as Overhaul Manual). I think that covers it all, good luck and hopefully happy days!

Listened carefully again last nite (after rebuilt); the thunk thunk thunk mid block noise seemed to have quietened down but the valve train / upper cyl noise very loud and harsh (much louder than before rebuilt) .... will recheck valve lash / recheck rocker & pushrod ops / recheck timing and report back. ps: cyl bores at last rebuilt looks visually ok, crosshatching still visible, no pronounced lip at cyl top.