Old Spot

I live in Nailsworth (2 mins away) and would rather travel 40 min to South Cerney Engineering for a proper job, check the fill pressures of the cheap refills as alot of them are decants from larger bottles so you don,t get as much gas.

Mercedes vans were using this box of tricks 20 years ago to power a 24v starter but charge at 12v. Maybe the van breakers might be a cheaper place to look for a well built change over box.

For cables up to 35mm2 you can buy an insulated junction box called a meter tail block from any electrical wholesalers, these take about 6 cables and have mounting holes ready to bolt them down. Screwfix also sell them, part No 11497-27 £3.57

The problem with tapping off the center of the two batteries is that the alternator senses that the overall voltage has dropped and starts charging which will cook the other battery. On the Nissan sd33 conversion I found an ex military land rover wiper motor, heater motor,a 24v flasher unit and fuel gauge and just changed all the bulbs on my truck to 24v. The biggest pain in the ass was towing other peoples trailers as 12v bulbs don,t last long on 24v. When we did the Toyota 6cyl engine into a 110 I did manage to find one of the Mercedes (208/306 vans from the eighties I think) changeover boxes that start the van on 24v but charge from 12v. This proved to be really reliable with no problems.

On some of the front salisburys the discs were vented specials made by AP Racing, Geoff at Hobson Industries has lots of experience and spares for these axles as they are the factory approved reconditioners for the MOD.

Hi Mike Every cradle seems to be different as the timming cases on disco and defender engines are different and the engine position on racers is never standard, I hope to do one on a factory 200 defender in the new year so I will have some spare plates cut at the same time.

Weld a small piece or expanded metal type mesh to the tops of the pedals.

When LRSV built my 127 in 1988 they chopped a standard 110 chassis in the middle and extended it. The truck was registered from the factory as a 110, I can only assume that as the 127 was not type approved at this time they just registered it as a 110. I spoke to the tracabillity dept at LR and asked what the position was as the vehicle is not as described in the 110 type approval and they were most unhelpful so dont expect much help from them.

I made up my pump mounts from each side of the block, this means there is no movement or risk of breakage between the crank and pump. If you want a coupling for the crankshaft to pump/dog clutch I have them on the shelf , £75.00inc post to fit the cast iron 200tdi pulley and any sized clutch shaft

Type R motors are not unique I can get them for about £100 when they are in stock. I posted all of the tech details some time ago, if you cant find it ping me a pm. IMHO Crank driven is the only way to go.

Sorry for the delay, the pump and dog clutch assembly project approx 275mm from the crank pulley so they will fit behind the defender cross member no problems.

Hydraulic Equipment superstore is in Gloucester (01452 730774), the part No of the dog clutch depends on the pump size and drive type so you willl have to ring with your pump spec.

How about these manual dog clutches from Hydraulic Superstore, this is my 200tdi one.

Hi Steve Good to see you guys at KAM have woken up to the world of LR4x4, I might get a rest from replying to all the posts regarding your products! Keep up the good work. Tony

The guys at KAM will bend over backwards to look after you, they have had any parts that I have needed on the shelf and dispatched them same day. Having used KAMs lockers I would not bother considering any other makes again as their price, quality and technical help is superb.