MBE_NZ

sorry guys I know the tyre (or tire) thing has been done to death. I'm after general advice but specially New Zealand members experiences / perspective and don't know where else to turn... I run a TD5 Defender 110 SW as my daily commute and have run it for last year or so on Adventuro AT2 GT Radial 235 85 16's. 44 psi rear and 42 on front. I have been thinking of going to 265's to get a bit bigger footprint so it doesn't "sink" so quick etc when off road at my next rubber purchase. I'm guessing 265/85 16 or would the profile change? they are not even half worn and have done me well / I've liked them until recently when I have had a few "loose moments" driving on NZ roads, when (having already dropped my speed dramatically for the wet asphalt roads) I have still been the recipient of some sideways movement on the road. I have been very grateful that I have been on my own (no family in vehicle) and also recovered with ingrained skid control techniques, I also haven't collided with anything to date and no other vehicles have been present at the time as I have crossed the centre line on more than one occurrence. Tyre pressures checked out OK as above The loose moments have occurred where I would usually have been able to easily and safely travel quite a fair bit faster than I have been and thru paranoia, I have now slowed down at these areas to the point that cars are now on my rear thru these areas. so no I'm not pushing the boundaries, it has only been loose on asphalt and I don't believe there has been oil or diesel spills at the points of interest Anyway - I drive the vast majority on road, but she does also get used as a farm vehicle and for some 4WD excursions and mountain running with skiing family I have previously run Kumho ATs (can't remember actual cut / type) which were OK, but nothing special to write home about. Could other New Zealand forum member drivers please let me know what size & brand / type of tyre and pressures they run and their experience good or bad and any advice? Thanks in advance David FYI - NZ Roads are far from the best in the world, we have a lot of loose chip, tarseal and asphalt on our roads which can be rather tractionless in wet especially after long dry periods our ground subsides a bit and roads are known to be quite patchy , we do however have 100 km/h open road and highway speed limit and my TD5 travels / cruises exceedingly well at and around that speed

Hi Rob, I had the dash apart today and had a quick look at the existing switch used for spot / fog lights (wired up by previous owner). it only has 2 wires, one (blue) connected directly to the White Orange wire of the ignition, the other (black) disappearing thru the firewall I suspect this goes directly to a relay under the bonnet somewhere. I will hopefully get a chance to have a decent look and re-wire to the non-used rear fog switch in a fortnight on my next break, but thank you heaps for your response Regards David

I've had a TD5 Turbo die on me previously and cost a pretty penny to replace. I have been given a turbo timer (simple one that keeps engine running for (user defined) set period of time allowing keys to be removed and vehicle locked whilst allowing turbo to cool) I know there are legal questions about an unattended vehicle with engine running... there are also mixed thoughts about need for timer on such a fine piece of engineering as TD5. that aside, I'm looking at installing the timer on my current 2002 TD5 defender and have a couple of Q's: It wires into the ignition and has Red - Battery +'ve, - (would I connect this to White Red on Ignition???) Black - Battery -'ve, - (I'm thinking connect straight to earth???) Yellow - Ignition - (I'm thinking White on Ignition???) Blue - ACC - (I'm thinking connect to White Orange of Ignition???) PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong - I am assuming the ignition wiring on TD5 ignition is: White Orange - ACC White - Ignition White Red - is this Battery +'ve? White Brown - is this Crank / Starter? Also - I do have a Madman fitted and I usually let the EGT drop down to below 180 deg C prior to turning off the key, but there are times when I do jump out quick while it's hotter - what is deemed a safe EGT temp to turn engine of at? apologies if this has been covered already - the only other topic I could find was topic 31805 in this they mention 200 deg GT being a safe temp to shutdown, but that seems a bit high to me Anyway - thoughts / guidance appreciated

Hi guys, we don't need to have the rear fog light in NZ, so I am planning on replacing it with second reverse light (LEDs) - I have that sussed, but am thinking I might re-use the rear fog switch for say the front flood/spot lights (they currently using a different / non-standard style switch). I realize that it is not for switching loads directly and that it needs to switch a relay - what I'm trying to work out is that the rear fog light only turns on when the headlights are running. I'd like to keep it so I can turn on the front spots regardless of the headlight status. I'd like to keep the existing wiring intact in case for any reason I need to revert I'd like to be able to wire it up the switch with the usual illumination etc. - does anyone have access to a simple wiring diagram showing which terminal is for what that they could share with me??

Mud have a similar overhead console which still uses the original sun visors - sun visors are required for MOT test here - www.mudstuff.co.uk/mud-defender-roof-console.html mud have some nice storage solutions, whilst they don't come cheap I have not had a bad experience with the quality of their gear remember - anything loose will become a missile in an accident, whilst we don't plan on having accidents, I think we need to keep it in mind

I really like the look of these, shame they don't offer international shipping

Thanks Paul - very useful. I suspect this circuit is also fused at the main fuse panel, are you able to tell me which fuse covers it? thanks in advance David

apologies if this has been covered elsewhere and I've not found it. I'm looking at installing an extra 12v power plug (or maybe two) in the rear of TD5 110 SW. Probably in top rear corner. It would be used to power portable DVD player for boot bound children on trips, but no doubt find I would use it frequently once installed. am thinking top left for future proofing and ease of attaching future accessories - maybe handheld spotlights / camping accessories and what have you anyone been here, have any pointers / wiring advice? thanks in advance

slightly of track here, but hope related enough. I have installed cruise control into my TD5 Defender some months back and it works well - also many thanks to the forum members for sharing their experience. I am looking at changing the instrument cluster and don't want to loose the cruise control function as have got really used to it. my question is a bit odd I suppose, but I am trying to work out the minimum wiring needed to be connected from the speedometer head (or standard TD5 instrument loom) to enable the speedo and Cruise control to work I am thinking that it would require top speedo plug pin 1 - Yellow/pink - ecu needed for cruise control pulse? pin 2 - black/red - transducer needed for speed reading pin 3 - pink - LED not really needed? pin 4 - red/orange - interior lights not really needed? pin 5 - not used pin 6 - brown/blue - Alarm LED not really needed? pin 7 - black - earth (-'ve) needed for earth pin 8 - not used pin 9 - purple/brown - constant +'ve needed to retain odometer display pin 10 - white / green - ignition +'ve needed for main power any required from bottom plug? pin 1 - white orange - low fuel light pin 3 - green/black - fuel sender pin 5 - green/blue - sometimes used for water temp? - I don't have connected pin 7 - light green/black - fuel gauge pin 9 - light green/blue - I don't have connected even numbered pins - not present in speedohead any thoughts / confirmation appreciated

Thanks Andy - I'm thinking I should try and get alternative transport home to reduce the risks, have ordered a top hose and thermostat as figure I may as well replace that while coolant is out. I'm a bit paranoid, but thinking if insert does drop out, it would be bloody hard to get it back in the hole... BTW - when I spoke to my mechanic he said that they NEVER touch the bleed screws - they bleed coolant using the small hose feed en-route to heater, because of known issues / lesson learnt

whilst taking photos of my A/C pump for another post, I noticed coolant around the top bleed screw - I went to tighten it, but the top half broke off in my fingers!!! I went for quick drive and there is coolant actively exiting the system when under pressure - enough to how nearby air intake housing... Part number as per LRCat is PYP10008L Can anyone tell me is it possible to replace (even temporarily) with a bolt - if so what size? I need to last 24 hours or ~220 kms, or more, as it will take that long to get one from my local breaker up country. This is my daily commute and am currently at work. I am really not a fan of stop leak and would rather not go there if poss ALSO would I be able to easy-out the remaining plastic thread or should I get a replacement top hose sent down while I'm at it??? I'm glad that for once it is a cheap part, and I suspect I may have saved myself from a very expensive repair - just goes to show it always pays to check the forums and take the odd photo... thanks in advance

I'll grab a screwdriver and take the plastic cowling off at lunchtime to get a better shot for you. This is a TD5 2002

yes sits on top of bracket - I could chuck a photo up of mine shortly if you like?

> Signbox - "turbo boost gauge comes with a 1/8th NPT connection and it says to drill and tap into my manifold" any chance of a photo please of how you fitted the sender?

thanks guys - Ash - you're not planning a trip to NZ are ya theres no way I could do a job like you've done... you've both earned a beer on me

Thanks for your feedback guys @Dave W - Very impressive. It actually looks quite good. I had imagined it would have looked out of place, but I'm impressed. out of a matter of interest, what sensors have you got hooked up? and do you find it user friendly? I managed to find a new stack ST3313 for 75% off their listed retail of USD222, so I jumped at it and ordered one - they must have noticed their error in price as they went up to USD180 the next day :-) If I go down the Madman path - I mite be able to pass on the stack unopened in it's box... I'll seek a quote for a madman anyways I think, I still need to have a look at what sensors I may need @Ash - I've heard about the web cutting but never really been sure how much to remove or would just a simple cut into each web be suffice? definately something to consider when I remove the manifold for planning and for sensor fitting BTW - As I read more on the DM6, I realised you actually need to purchase additional units to sit between each sensor, but they could share the gauge :-( so I think would work out quite pricey and as Ash said - not the best for quick readability that I'd be after...

stumbled across a manualfor the DM6 - http://www.plxdevices.com/support/manuals/DM-6UsersGuide.pdf any of you smart fellas able to provide any guidance? on second look, it looks to me to be more like a basic EMS rather than a multi-gauge persay, but then my primary justification is to prevent exhaust manifold warping again, and I guess this will give me more than that - a bonus even .don't know if would be as readible as a Stack gauge or as configurable as a Madman Maybe I should just bite the bullet and go for a Madman - I know, they don't fit in existing dash gauge holes

I've been after an EGT for my trusty daily commuter (TD5 Xtreme) I've been looking for a while and the closest I've been able to find with a white needle has been the Stack ST3313 or the pro version is tempting the stack ST3513 . (I can live with the tripple stack wording being on the gauge) I have also been considering a boost and tacho - but I don't like the extra pods sitting on top of dash and I know I could raise the radio and put guages just under radio in the centre console etc, but I stumbled across this today - has anyone looked at / tried one of these??? will they connect OK to TD5 underseat ECU tacho connection etc? PLX DM-6 Multi Gauge with Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Module SM-EGT http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290713615889&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en I guess I'm prepared to compromise and use one of these for the additional functionality even though its totally obviously non-standard... it can also replace clock in dash cluster - also I can easily remove it and replace the clock if / when I upgrade to newer TD5... any thoughts / recommendations / warnings?

I bought a TD5 set of 6 blue LED bulbs from fleabay seller car-mod-shop in UK they fit just fine, but I have put the original ones back in. I found the worked great and the guages were very easy read, but with everything else blue, the high beam light wasn't so prominent. I also replaced the interior lights and would go with white light here too as blue lights while they look cool, are pretty useless if your looking for something at night that isn't white

OK so I have not checked the relay out yet... but when my indicators are in use the trailer icon also flashes on the dashboard (with and without trailer fitted) it flashes continuously - my previous LR only had trailer icon flash once on the first flash of indicators (unless trailer was attached then it flashed with each flash) It's not that importantant to me as I have an innate ability to tell when there is a trailer connected to the vehicle - I simply look in the rear view mirrors :-) my trailer also has lights facing forward so quite easy to tell if lights are hooked up, but...I have wondered why this Defender is the way it is and besides Rob started it David

I'm after a EGT to replace the clock in the dash for a TD5 - so would be interested in your findings

interesting - I just changed light switch arm on one of my TD5s due to melting / of the main beam contact into the plastic also AMR6104

I've put a rear swing on my 02 TD5 xtreme - I used a Britpart one that seems to do the trick quite well. I did this as I used a bike rack (which bolts onto spare wheel nuts) and broke a stud off the door mounted frame. Considering the options I decided to fit swing frame in case I put the bikes on the back again and to take the strain off the door. (I also replaced the hinge pins and balls) I believe it is a worthwhile mod and door operates just fine from inside or outside, Eitherway - if you put it on the door or a swing frame, you may want to consider putting a gas strut on the rear door if young ones travel in the back - my youngest struggles with the door at times

The horrible spigot bearing screech is back. my TD5 had "the noise" intermittently at low speeds and manoeuvring in car parks. There seemed to be no real hard and fast rule as to when it would occur and it stopped for no reason (about a year ago) and hasn't made the noise since... until last week as now its back!!! I've been told it's nothing to worry about and not worth the effort (or labour costs) of replacing it – to leave it until the clutch needs work. My previous research seemed to agree with this line of thought and I was happy with that approach especially when the noise disappeared, but now it's back and I'm not so sure. it's quite embarrassing when pulling in or out of car parks and the horrid screech starts up. Sometimes putting her in neutral and foot off clutch, then back on again stops the noise - others times it doesn't matter what I do - the noise is there until the clutch is right out Any advice? Is there a way to quieten it down again?

TSD - interesting to hear you say that you've had some success. you made the comment that "the TT-V seems to refuse ALL heat commands addressed from the T91" - do you have a Y cable or have you joined in parallel? I believe that the Y cables may connect in series, if so - does the timer interpret / filter the commands in some way maybe?? I was thinking about the commands whilst I should have been sleeping the other night and remembered that the remotes only show green LED when pushing On button - which is supposedly for "Venting" or "Summer Mode". the TTV I have is a "standheizun", which I believe means "unlocked", but when using the WTT software it will run as parking heater PH, and Supplementary heater SH, but the venting isn't avail. unfortunately I've been unable to date to change the mode on the remotes / T91 to display red LED when pressing on button on remote - which is AFAIK is what they should do for heating mode - is there a way around this? the "press both buttons" on remote doesn't seem to generate any response. I couldn't help but wonder whether that is where my problems lie - T91 / TTV related problems anyways :-) the other thought I had was about how clever these things actually are - I'm southern hemisphere and its the winter here, where as T91 came from your side of the globe - but I doubt that would cause an issue with modes. As far as I know the mode would be controlled via the remote button sequence and not by the month... I cant help but wonder just what the Y cable is deemed a requirement. am tempted to get one, but wonder if I would just be throwing more good money after bad