dantastic

Sent gwyn an email. See what they say...

I was checking Matt Lee's page and Gwyn Lewis' but couldn't find any bead lockers on either page. Better go have a look again. If I can get hold of spun lockers that's definately what I'd go with, second best would be real thick ones.

Ah yes... They are 15" - thanks for the link! I've been searching a bit more and I think the cheapest ones are these http://www.westmids4x4.com/products/beadlockers.php Over in the states there are many real cool options but here not so much...

Thanks for the offer but these bad boys are for a Toyota axle.

Are they on the gwyn Lewis web page? Can't seem to find them there.

Where abouts do they sell them? I'm looking for the rings you weld on yourself.

Have a look in this thread: http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php/143896-Doors-won-t-close-in-cold-weather I removed the inserts on mine (a TD5) and it helped alot. There is also info there what and how to lubricate the locking mechanism to make it work better.

Alright. All good so, thanks!

I need to get a crimping tool for larger lugs, battery cable size. Most of the ones I have come across are just a hex compression and no indentation as I would expect from a well crimped lug. So am I wrong here, the hex crimpers are fine or where can I get a proper one?

Keep us posted on this one as I'd definitely be interested! Does it come with mounting for CB?

No roll cage.... Yet. Muddy, you make a good point, I don't know to be honest.

Before putting too much thought into it I went ahead and got a 41.5" LED light bar trough the group buy. I don't really know where and how to mount it. Was thinking in the grille first but the roof is probably better considering the size of it. I don't have a roof rack so I will probably need aroof bar. I would be driving " through" trees often enough so I need the bar a bit protected or at least round corners for branches not to catch. How have other people been mounting there?

I have quite a lot of experience in snowy cold climate. There is plenty of grip on snow, even packed snow with fresh winter tyres. Winter tyres are made of a different compound that respond better to the cold. But do note that after a couple of years they are not as effective anymore. Similarly as already noted, a good regular tyre will start getting less effective (harden) at 3-5 degrees already. On actual ice ice there are a few tyres on offer in scandinavia that promises to be almost as good as studded tyres. They are not but they are miles better than your regular all year tyres. On proper ice there really isn't much you can do. Chains or preferably don't leave the house if at all possible. Most of the time though people equate very packed snow with ice though and packed snow the winter tires can deal with no problem. On a regular car it is definitely worth it even if you won't be seeing that much snow as the winter tyres have a deeper thread allowing to push more water away as well. The other thing is your driving style. I was taught when I was learning to drive to imagine I had an egg between the foot and the pedal. Press the pedal so to not break the egg. If you drive gently like that you vastly increase your chances. so yea, even in the UK it's a good idea to invest in a set of winter boots. They will make a huge difference.

Yea, it's mostly unrelated stuff but it covers the whole process. Maverik, Let me know if you need any part numbers or have any other questions - there is not much to it though...

Alrighty. Thread with photos over at 4xforum.net. I think you may have to register to see the section in question though. http://www.4xforum.net/index.php?topic=2793.0

My hi-cap started it's life as a hard top and I converted it myself. All you need is a few brackets and a tub. You will need to extend a few wires as well if you want the rear lit It's not a very difficult job to be honest. I have pics on a few other forums - not sure if it's ok to link here to other forums so PM me for links.

I have a detroit locker in the back of the 110 - Salisbury axle. Completely transparent on the road and excellent off. There is a new version out now that is better. In the year or so I've had it fitted I have not once had the famous Detroit bang. The price of it plus the super simple install makes it a no-brainer in my book.

Another vote for BritCar here. Excellent service every time and you know what you get. I do not use things supplied in blue boxes unless absolutely necessary so I generally don't use Paddocks but I have found them good the times I have ordered from them. I have had the most awful experience with Rimmerbros - will never us them again.

Quick update, I didn't have a chance to look at this properly over the weekend but I did get a chance to inspect the kick down cable. It's in place where it should be and it moves freely in both directions. I think we can rule out the kick down cable. Next stop will be to clean out the governor. Not sure when I will have a chance to do this

I will take it from authority I suppose. Will have a look to make sure the kick down cable is moving freely and failing that the governor will have to be looked at. Is this something I will be able to clean out myself or will I need a replacement governor? thanks!

Sound! That one sounds plausible. I think I read somewhere that you must not run with the kick down cable disconnected though. I gather from what you're saying that's not a problem. I hope to be able to try sometime this weekend and I will report back. In the meantime keep the suggestions coming though!

Yes I have and it makes no difference.

Hi, I have a ZF4HP22 out of a RRC. I was out playing and from having ben working perfectly fine the gearbox is no longer shifting up out of first gear. Park, Reverse, neutral all work as they should. In all of the forward gears I'm only in first gear ever. I have tried giving it quite a lot of boot but it will not shift up. First stop was to check oil level, seemed alright but I dropped and replaced the oil. It was in good shape already though. Suggested on another forum was to bring up to speed and engage reverse a few times. Tried but has done nothing. Since this happened the car has not once shifted up above 1st gear. The box have been well serviced to date and the slamming into reverse didn't do anything so I'm somewhat thinking that it's not the governor sticking as I probably would have managed to get it to shift up at least once or so. So what can I try next? This is one of the real old ZF4s so I don't think there are any electrics there to go wrong.