dantastic

The side panels will still be on the car so I don't think I can clamp a piece of plywood to the panel.

I'm just about to install some side windows in my 90 in order to be able to see what I'm doing at junctions. Too many brown pants moments after blindly driving out in traffic... I had initially thought I'd just use metal blades on my reciprocating saw but as I went to pick up some blades I read they were for 1.5-5mm. That lower limit concerned me a bit so I didn't get any blades and figured I'd ask here instead. A reciprocating saw is not exactly a fabricator's tool, it's for demolition but I still thought it was the right tool for the job. I'm no longer sure. Can I cut thin panels with it or will it leave rough edges? What to use instead? Angle grinder I presume? I'm just a bit worried my hands aren't steady enough to be using the grinder.

But the sankey is what, 5-600kg? That seems very heavy to me, even if a lot of weight may be in the tub. I was wanting something a bit longer though as the main appeal behind this idea is having something just big eough that you can go inside when the weather is bad. I think the footprint of a sankey is just that bit too small as well. If I manage to convince SWMBO I'll ut up a build thread! 👍

I'm toying with the idea ob building a camping trailer and I'm also considering building a chassis from scratch. I know Sankeys are pretty popular but I think a Sankey is far too heavy for what I need it for. However, a Sankey is meant to follow the tracks of a 90 perfectly, is this correct? The Sankey is crazy short and I can only imagine reversing it would be a pain. What would be a better set of dimensions for a trailer chassis? Whilst still following as closely as possibly the tracks on the 90?

I was asking the same question a while back and everyone said get an old one, get an old one. So I spent a wad of cash getting a Startrite drill press. It works fine but it's not that powerful and it's a bit old and scruffy. Then I tried a friend's drill press, floor model, new build. Was just way more powerful, more accurate. It was better in every way. I'm disgusted with my crappy startrite now. So try before you buy, try both. When I get a chance I'll offload my Startrite onto a victim and I'll buy a new one.

Measuring between the output side of the relay and the negative pole on the battery. I suppose I really should remove all the fuses and measure again with absolutely nothing connected. Only reason I didn't was because I couldn't see where a back feed could possibly be introduced. I suppose a back feed is the most likely explanation though.

I have a Durite 140A voltage sensing relay wired up to a fuse box where things like CB radio and extra USB sockets are connected. As I was troubleshooting a strange issue I realised that the relay is actually always letting through a very small current. When the engine is running I'm getting the full 14.something volts through but with the engine off and the battery a small bit discharged to the point where the relay should disconnect I'm getting a reading of 0.5v. It's a simple enough circuit and nothing can get power from anywhere else so there is no "feedback". I'm just wondering if this is normal, if anyone else has experienced this. The relay is probably 8 years old or so and I don't know if it always did this.

I imagine the ones on top that appear unharmed in photos are quite smoke damaged. They would have to be ripped apart and cleaned. They are scrap unfortunately. These kinds of fires are so rare that I'm not sure I'd support going all crazy to be amending regulations. It was an accident, thankfully only material. As it was only material maybe we got the balance right this time? It's obviously awful but we will never live in a world without any accidents.

I've found the service manual but to setup the frequencies you need a whole lot more equipment than just a multimeter. Hmm... A new one with warranty is about £50. Not sure repairing will be much cheaper.

Using a 0.89m stinger (I think it is) and it's mounted on the ladder on the rear. I also have an artificial ground plane.

Straight from battery.

No, there are no switches on the back at all. It's as basic as it gets really..

I don't know. It's whatever is standard for the band/channel I suppose. We are generally on EU-FM. There are no settings to modify the power, no gain knob. Or when you say power, is that something I can check/modify outside of the controls on the front of the radio?

I have a TTi TCB-550 CB radio, it's a budget radio so not many settings to mess with. The problem is I don't seem to have a whole lot of reach with my transmission. I have tried 2 different aerials, both SWRd in place and I've very good readings (To the point where I'm not sure my meter is actually working...). In general I can hear everyone else just fine. Other people report that I'm coming through at a lower volume than everyone else. I sound faint. Also, I seem to drop out of range quicker than other people. What I mean by that is that I can hear them but they can't hear me. This is all too common and I'm always the common denominator so I know the fault is with my setup and not theirs. Is there something I can do, try or check? Other than SWR I don't know what to do.

I will have a closer look at the normal bumpers so. I wanted a more discreet fit but as I have a Husky just sitting around I would feel a bit stupid buying a slimmer winch.

I have an old Husky 8000 that I would like to fir to my 90. There are a few bumpers available but they all poke out quite a lot, I was hoping for a more discreet solution. Have anyone seen a slimmer Husky bumper? I haven't looked yet but I imagine that if the winch sat a bit lower it could be pushed back a bit further.

Repost from defender2 http://www.ebay.ie/itm/MADMAX-KITCAR-RAT-LOOK-PEUGEOT-305-ESTATE-DIESEL-1-5-MADE-IN-1994-ONEOFF-CAMPER/282220141644?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D38661%26meid%3De0b078ce300b4c519519b5f4a071c645%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D131947129402&clk_rvr_id=1112553262218&rmvSB=true " YOU WILL NOT REGRET OWNING THIS VECHICLE !!! "

Ok, I've taken a punt on a Startrite mercury mark 2. It has a 3 phase 370W motor. I've also got a VFD on order. I'm very unsure about it to be honest. The more modern ones I've looked at seems all around better but I'm going to give this a go anyway. So many people in the know just can't be wrong.

@Les Henson, With the VFD, are you able to wire it in such a way that you can still use the original switch for forward and reverse?

All good info. can someone help explain the power though. I was initially looking at modern drills with between 500 to 750W but was told these were underpowered. Had a look at a startrite Mercury 2 (a recommended drill) and it only has some 370W ! so how is it that the old drill isn't underpowered and the new one is, even though the new one has twice the wattage?

I'm in the market for a pillar drill. I'd rarely drill holes much larger than 10mm, it's more for the precision I need it. As you do you go online and have a look at what is available. Most stuff is starting out at about 350W. You can get a 500W bench drill at around 150-300 depending on. If you have happy to take a chance on a brand you've never heard of before you can get a 750W unit for your 300. I've spoken to a good friend of mine who says I should look for a 3hp unit. These new are 1000's over my budget. He's suggesting I should get an old solid strong unit, like Startrite, Meddings (a few other brands I can't remember). I've had a look around, there's nothing around me for sale and these things are prohibitively large and heavy to put through the post. I'm in Ireland for the record. I know my friend is right in what he's saying. But as I don't have any of these second hand units where I live I can't help but glancing towards a new 500-ish Watt unit. Won't it be good enough? Or is it false economy, it will last a couple of years and I'll be back looking for another one? What gives? If you had 300 to spend on a pillar drill, how would you spend it?

What's wrong with that? It's unfinished but there's nothing wrong with it. The cage looks spot on as well.

I'm going to go with the First Four ones. They have another few bits I need as well so it makes sense to get a lot of stuff in one order. thanks

I'm in Ireland. But judging by shipping costs to Ireland one would think it was much further away...

I'm not in the UK so shipping can be expensive so that's a definite consideration. Paddock has cheap shipping but their ones have pretty poor images as an example http://www.paddockspares.com/pm736-tree-sliders-pair-defender-90-black-powder-coated-over-zinc-plate.html It's a photoshop.... The first four ones look nice. I like that they have the grip tape.