Meatslicer

Wow! Just practiced sandblasting on a take off panel. Had to turn down the pressure to its lowest setting and the paint came off in seconds. Gotta make up a blasting cupboard with collection vents in the bottom to recycle the grit. Result. Eric

A large tin of roofing liquid rubber is about £30 from B&Q, that is enough for 3 layers on ply. Its intended for flat roof repair so it sticks really well and acts as a non slip surface. If you treat the underside before putting on the trailer you will have a completely sealed panel that will last years. If you screw shallow sacrificial runners either across or along the length of the panel, it will make the surface last even better. Eric

I have been busy ripping out the front seats and seatbox on my 110 and I have an idea for mounting the original handbrake lever more to the passenger side on the front of an ammo box bolted to the centre seat box panel. That would give me a more accessible brake lever and a central cubby box with a lockable lid. Using a higher mounting point would mean the cable would just need to be rerouted without shortening or otherwise altering the cable. Fiddling with the footwells too, the rusting at the bottom seems to be due to road grime and dirt collecting between the chassis outrigger and the footwell panel. This could be reduced by either lifting the panel up and increasing the gap between them so the dirt would wash out, or putting a screen in front of it so the dirt doesnt get in there in the first place. Anyone done this kind of mod already? I have decided to take out the bulkhead panel between the front seats and the rear tub and put in a bulkhead removal bar. The seats I will be refitting will be from a RR classic fitted onto the original sliding mounts but set on runner extensions to give more legroom. These will need to be set inboard from the original place on the seatbox. My ammo box idea will make it possible to move the seating inboard and backwards and still have the brake lever reachable. Having almost completely stripped the dashboard away, revealed the previous attempts to fill holes in the top of the bulkhead, However these attempts all seemed to have failed to stop water ingress from the windscreen run-off which form a pretty reasonable river of water into the footwells. Had to take out all of the soundproofing stuck to the foowell walls because it was all soaked and mouldy. Having a great time doing all this, very therapeutic ripping a car apart. Hadnt realized! Eric

Can you use stainless welding wire? That would stop the weld rusting, but there would still be a bimetallic joint so it would go eventually. Thinking aloud here...... Eric

Witham have this monster but its part of a parts list for sale as a pack. Search This is a comprehensive spares package for the Leyland DAF T244 4x4 Truck. The parts are from low mileage trucks in very good operational condition. The vehicles are checked for operational functionality before spares recovery is undertaken. They currently have all lubricating fluids in the assemblies to ensure they remain in good condition but will be drained of fluids prior to export. The package consists of: * Cummins 5.9Lt Turbo Diesel Engine * Turner T5-350 5 speed + 1 reverse Gearbox * Getrag 304 2 Speed + Neutral Transfer gearbox * ZF8045 Steering Box with Drop arm (power assisted) * Front Axle - Complete including hubs, brakes and drag link * Rear Axle - Complete including hubs, brakes and Load sensing valve * 4 x Wheels and tyres * 4 x Leaf Springs * Steering Arm * 5 x Air Tanks * 2 x Cab Doors * Shock Absorbers * Fuel Tank mounting supports and straps * Air Filter housing and ducts * 2 x Front Bumpers * 2 x Rear Light Clusters + Outriggers * Quantity of Air Valves * Air Dryer * Master Switch & Slave socket * Cab Jacking Pump, Rams and pipes. * Radiator * Header/Expansion Tank * 3 x Prop Shafts * Steering Column, Wheel and switch gear * Exhaust Silencer * U bolts, bump stops and saddles * Dash Instrument Binnacle * Front light Panels, complete with lights and guards. Add item to your favourites

Just took my door cards off the front doors. What a mess!. rusted to shreds and the door skin is blistered and bent. Time for some new doors then. Why on earth didnt landrover put some kind of plastic channel in the bottom to stop all the rusting? There dont seem to be any drain channels either. Talk about rubbish design. Even a plastic sheet taped to the outer door skin and laid over the bottom channel would have worked. Eric

Any reason that the panel edges which will come into contact with the chassis cant be coated in rubber for example? Might stop some of the corrosion getting to the adjoining panels. Eric

Cor you lot are useful. I thought the picky wouldn't be any use. So that's another thing I can get done without breaking the bank. Looks like I made a reasonable purchase anyway when I got this off eBay, surprised or what? Cheers all Eric

Got a photo of the rear axle with my iPhone but the quality is pretty poor for some reason.

Its either that or make it a soft top and just have hoops and a bit of canvas I'm afraid. As I said earlier, I have a hatred of rain on me inside a vehicle, but I can put up with rain from an open roof. Thats natural rain. I'll have a squint at the axle and see if I can see any identifiers on it. Failing that I will photograph it and let you lot have a butchers. Eric

Yeah I noticed the condensation thing. I have just relined the front header with insulation and have a Rad Haz insulation kit to line it over the top and back to the rear door, got another one to make a curtain between the seating and the rear tub to make it a bit cozier. The driver side joint between the front tilt and rear tub roof panels is where the water is coming in. I sprayed it with red water-soluble paint and waited for the next rain shower (torrent) and mapped where it was coming in. Its not a huge amount of water but it is mucky and cold. I have a later smooth 110 roof currently on my sankey conversion which I know is water tight so I will be swapping them. I have a heavy duty roof rack with chequer plate on it if I ever need to stand on the roof for something. While the roof is off I was going to change the windscreen too. How do I identify the axle type? Cant see any part numbers or identifying marks on it. Can you tell the difference by sight? I can photograph the axle and post it if anyone can tell me what I've got on there from it. At last its stopped raining now so I can get out and do some fiddling on this project. Gotta take the footwells out so I can get some new ones in there as soon as I can for the mot next month. Eric

HaH! Had a good chuckle at all your replies, cheers gents. I have a hole in the top of my radiator cover panel on the front surface at the top, I assume is meant for the key barrel to fit into. I did wonder because I couldnt think what would have exitted at the front above the bull bars and lights. Anyway, Mine has ribs and little vents at the rear but I will be changing it for a smooth top, (sorry CW) only because I have had problems in the past where water made its way in under the ribs and through the joint under there and it was almost impossible to stop without removing the ribs, sealing and re-riveting. I have a hatred for water dripping on my head INSIDE a vehicle. I managed to stop it leaking for a while by painting the whole roof with liquid rubber but its actually cheaper to replace the roof! Here's a quick list of mods and replacements I have plans and parts for: Replace enormous original steering wheel with a smaller wheel and low profile boss (done) can now drive it without the window wound down. Replace seat box. (got parts) The panel under the battery was completely rotted and replaced with a 1/8th inch thick untreated piece of internal ply wood. the battery bounced well whenever you went over a bump and probably would have ended up dumped in the middle of a field at some time. Replace the horribly ripped front seats with RRC leather seats with heaters and adjusters. (My missus insisted on comfy heated seats for when we take the dog out. Personally I find they make me feel like I have wet myself). I was going to replace the sticky and shredded front seat belts but the seats came with seatbelts in good nick so I can use them. Remove the bulkhead behind the front cabin to allow rearward adjustment for the seats. Thats for me, long legs I am afraid. Got cramp driving the Landy home from Bristol when I bought it. Replace the hand brake lever with a range rover top-mounted one bolted to the left side of the middle seat box. The original is too far forward for my taste. Using it was what gave me cramp on my maiden voyage. Replace non-functioning heater blower, again for the missus. Replace windscreen and seal with heated type. Leaks like a seive at the moment through all the cracks all around the edge. A heated one will reduce the chance for the heater fan to let me down in winter. Replace or repair both front door bottoms where they flap about in the wind at the moment. Might get some with electric winders but that might be an extravagance too far. I did wonder about replaceing the whole rear tub with a snatch body advertised on fleabay for £400 complete with front armoured doors but the doors look like the windows drop out rather that down, and it would make the whole truck a bit heavier. I would like the full height entry doors at the rear though....... Calm..... Remove, sand blast and respray all of the body panels. Bought myself a 3 HP compressor and sand blaster for christmas so could have great fun taking off the 5 layers of paint on there. Can then prep and flatten out any bumps before respray. Sand blast and respray/seal the chassis. There is some surface rust but havent found any serious rot in any of the outriggers or main chassis. Replace wheel bearings all round. Replace all springs for heavy duty ones with 2-4 inch lift depending on eventual plan for rear tub. Replace brake drums with disks but I understand this would probably mean changing the rear axle? The engine is a 300td with a td5 gearbox I think, Its 5 speed and could probably do with a new clutchplate, 2nd gear is hard to get to from 1st but easier from 3rd. Oh and replace the footwells for now, maybe replace the bulkhead completely later on when the side panels start to rot. All together a nice list to be getting on with. Maybe I should rent a lock-up while I am doing all this. My drive is getting a bit full with parts and my sankey trailer. Eric

Roundy roundy spring thingys at each corner, no leafsprings under there as far as I can see. The reason I wanted to check is that I want to get some footwell repair panels for it but they are sold as series or defender versions and the dates for each of these is a bit confusing coz they are sold as defender after 1991 and series before that year. VERY CONFUSING FOR US LANDY NEWBIES. Every other part I have bought has been identified as just "landrover 110/90" or in some cases "rangerover classic but will fit defender " without modification. Eric

Ok, now I know this will make me look like a right turkey, but I am not sure if I should be using this section of the forum or the Series section. I bought a Landrover 110 hardtop van on fleabay, which was described as a defender. However the decal on the rad cover panel says Landrover 110, and no mention of defender. Does this mean I am on the wrong bit? Eric

Ok, progress report. Bought a 110 hard top van off fleabay. Chassis is ok, some rot in the footwells and the battery box under the passenger seat. Front bulkhead looks like its been filled but it is ok for now. Front doors ropey at the bottom, 4 different keys for the locks and ignition. Both front seats are in fair condition but could do with replacing. Bulkhead behind seats restricts adjustment so will need removing/cutting down. Rear windscreen wiper smooshed against window by badly fitted spare wheel carrier. Replaced nuts on carrier and fitted correctly. Washer nozzle missing. Got a nearly new seat box for £82 Leather set of seats for £111 New set of matching keys and locks for £10 Replacement Rangerover hand brake handle for £6 New smaller steering wheel and boss for £90 Seat heightening runners £15 Rear windscreen washer nozzle £3 New wheel bearings all round £24 Rad Haz insulation sheets £22 Watch this space......

Yup, that's what I am planning too. Looks neat Wric

I have been looking at this too for my 1988 110. I am 5' 11" tall but I dont think height so much as leg/body proportion is a problem. I find the driving position in the current set up pretty cramped and getting out is a bit of a struggle with the standard LR 4 spoke steering wheel. I have checked the rear bulkhead and have come to the conclusion that I will be making up an extension plate. This will be mounted behind the drivers side seat and will sit on the top of the side panel where the original bulk head is attached, with a shelf plate extending behind the seat sloping down to the floor pan and then sloping up again to the passenger side, giving access to the rear load area. I intend fitting front facing rangerover seats as a second row, staggered to allow access from the rear and the front so I can use the vehicle as a camper and general off roader. As I chop it about I'll post pictures so you can see what I mean. Eric

Merry Christmas all. Hope Santa got my request for a new seat box, rangerover handbrake lever, ally front doors and heavy duty battery. Oh and the wolf roll cage. Eric

I have been keeping an eye on some snatch bodies for sale at pretty reasonable prices on ebay. They are complete kevlar armoured bodies including front cab, both front doors, rear pod, bulkhead and crew deck. All of these are made of kevlar which equates to fibre glass and is not likely to rot. Any ideas on whether to buy the snatch body or sell my 110 and get a snatch landrover which is essentially an uprated chassis, suspension and v8 engine, take off the snatch pod and replace with a standard 110 rear load body? I have no preferences either way, and time is not a problem. Eric

I want one....better start doing the lottery. Ok, back to the real world. Forget the enormungus wheels and maybe the wheel arches, (although they doo look nice). I can see a way to widen the body, once I have stripped down to the chassis, weld on wider outriggers and weld a new strip down the outer edge of the bulkhead using upper bulkhead repair panels, bulk-head side panels and mounting plates. The wings and side mounts will be moved outwards. All I need to do then is widen the bonnet by adding a strip down the centre and widen the roof by doing the same. I have looked at the measurements for a high capacity rear tub which would be wide enough to add to the rear to make a straight body outline. Simples Eric

Four windscreen wipers! Come on! Eric

OK, just saw this monster in the link above() I want one, my missus wants one and my daughter wants to borrow it. Thats what I'm talking about!

looks more like a lower camera angle and a wide angle lens, make the body look wider. I have started to strip out my 110, sold the roof rack that came with it for £180 on EBay, roof off next and rear tub off. I will be swapping the old roof with runners for an alloy roof and insulating the whole cabin with wolf insulation sheets when it all goes back together. Need to strip down my sankey trailer too and make it into an engine, gearbox and chassis carrier so I can transport parts for rebuilding and galvanizing. The dashboard is a mess with water getting in through the window seal, and the radio drains the battery. Took out all of the cobbled-together wiring today. The scrappy who drives round in his tipper truck has been busy picking up all of the rusty panels and old bolts. Eric

I know I am probably being a bit dim but would a normal air compressor run off an invertor run from battery/alternator power? I have a bostitch 1.5 hp compressor in my shed that I never use, and it draws very little power from the mains supply to run. The only down side I suppose is the noise of the compressor pump as it fills the reservoir. Just a thought. Eric

Now that I have had these replies from you lot, I am gonna see if I can do outrigger surgery and extend the bulkhead sideways. That way I can keep all of the current steering and pedals as they are and widen my arm space. Do you mean pictures of my manly physique or the planned surgery on the Landy? Where do they sell middle-rotten bulkheads? All the ones I have seen are gone on the same places, in the footwell and under the windscreen drain gutter. Am I missing something? Another wild thought, anyone ever welded a door frame over an existing door frame and transplanted the window winder and door catches onto the outer door? That would give another three or four inches of shoulder room. Just bought myself a new 3hp compressor and a pressurised sandblaster so I can start stripping my panels and chassis as I remove them. Never done sandblasting so looking forward to making a real mess! Eric