Meatslicer

Over Drive indicator from auto box. If its illuminated in a manual, could be a short Eric

I've heard back from one of the manufacturers on the label of these canvases. The nato green canvas is off a Military Husky, its the cover for the cargo tub. I have a desert sand coloured radio dust cover for the Husky too. Definitely not WMIK parts. Not too many Husky owners out there! Eric

I got my series-style two part doors from an E Bay seller who makes them on the same equipment as the defender doors (post 1991). They line up with the defender door frames really well and they are made with the choice of anti burst or non anti burst style locks. They also have the door switch actuator panel for the alarm and courtesy light. They are a direct replacement for the defender doors that have door cards and rust prone bottoms. You can drive in summer (!) with just the lower section of the door on, or bolt on the glazed upper section for the (Ahem) winter. The check plate is the standard defender type. They are etch primed grey so just need painting in your choice of colour. £120 the pair. Bargain! I over painted mine in silver hammerite, three layers on the inner panels to help keep them rust free, the skins are alloy so they will be painted desert cream colour when it comes time to finish them. Hope this helps Eric

defender Series-style doors are pretty bomb proof and much simpler. Made on the same jig as defender doors and have anti burst locks which don't jam or lock unless you want them to. They also give more cabin room because they don't have winders or door cards. I have a puma heater retro fitted to mine which has fixed plastic channels bolted to a steel pole mounted inside the dash. Instead of the standard heater I will be plumbing in a webasto heater which will heat up instantly instead of waiting for the engine to supply heat. the puma blower is pretty good and the switches are more definite so the demister is the only thing getting air when its switched in. Sealing the joins with rubber paint makes them stay in and stay efficient. Eric

One other thing that may have a bearing (!) is binding brakes. If its steering into the middle of the road maybe the off side brakes ar sticking. I had something like this happen after a service where the pads were checked but the calipers were sticking. Just a thought. Eric

I'll post some when I can get them done. Cheers

Hope you Military types can help with this one. I bought a box of WMIK CES kit from withams, expecting some roll cage bars and weapons mounts etc, but have ended up with a collection of canvases and leads I cant identify. Some of them I can use but there are a couple of large canvases I cant work out. One is a newish nato green heavy duty canvas, long enough to cover a 110 but has a diagonal flap along each side which doesnt match any vehicles I know of. It has a velcro closure at the rear which lines up with the defender door but there are no attatchments at the front for the screen loops or pips. The other one is a desert sand colour heavy duty canvas tent which has door flaps at either end, each flap has 6 buckle straps set on the outside, and a large zipped flap above the flap on one end big enough to act as another door. The whole tent thingy more that covers a 110 van and has elasticated lines running all around the base with hook attachments at the ends. I can post some photos later if anyone needs them to help identify them In the box also were 2 heavy duty body bags(!) and 6 body blankets which are essentially green plastic tarps with cotton lining. Obviously essential for realism when doing up a military vehicle! Oh and I have two tank jump leads going spare if anyones interested. Probably worth about £40 in scrap for the copper and brass fittings at each end. Free to anyone who has a tank they will fit and wants to collect them from South Wales or a donation to the site plus postage.

There is a pair for sale on Ebay, £19.99 I think. Eric

I am interested in this thread too because I will be dismantling my 1988 110 and doing a nut and bolt rebuild with a bulkhead, heated screen, dash and seatbox with fuse box from a 2012 tdci. Most of it looks like it will fit ok but the heater and controls are causing a bit of head scratching. My loom was cut in bits so its being spliced back together slowly. I could be doing this for months! Eric

Take up the floor panel, it only needs a few bolts undoing to lift off. Best to take up the passenger side so you have access to the right area. Just taking off the gear box cowling wont give enough work access. Eric

The gap on mine alters depending on whether the bonnet catch is working or not. I have invested in some bonnet stays to help with this problem until I can dismantle the whole car and replace the jammed catch when it all goes back together. My front doors sit proud of the side of the car too. And the rear door hangs at a bit of an angle coz of the weight of the spare wheel bolted to it. Doesnt affect the airodynamics of the bodywork though! Eric

I am in the process of putting a puma bulkhead and dash into my 110 300td. I intend to use the under seat fuse box to supply the dashboard components and use the original wiring and fuse box for all the original 110 parts. The only problems I can see will be the gear stick position. The gear lever may foul on the lower edge of the dashboard. The dash and heater matrix box go on pretty easily, the blower is mounted in the engine compartment so could be replaced with another blower with simpler wiring. The dash controls all control the airflow pattern with analogue sliders and dials so its just a couple of cables to route Simples. Eric

nice write up, detailed and photographed nicely. Cant say I would have the patience to do it, but now I know how, if I ever had a free week to do it! Cheers. Eric

Yeah, I gathered that. If I cant get it to work without major surgery, I'll sell the dash and fabricate my own from GRP and steel inserts. I have been toying with the idea of removing the passenger side seat all together, cutting away the seat box from that side and and leaving room for access to rear seating and my sleeping cabin. I would only have to make up floor panels and take away the rear bulkhead. There cant be any rules about having fewer seats, can there? I don't see many people coming with me to firtle around in farmers fields anyway, so I can use the extra space to make up an angled cockpit with controls and radio/ipad/supplies/jaffa-cake holders. Eric

The passenger side seat is identically wired and motorised but because the wiring loom is not going to be connected it will serve as a parts reservoir for the drivers side if I need parts. The bulkhead is out of a 2012 puma so I reckon corrosion wont be a problem for a while but I might go the whole hog and strip it down and galvanise it if its not already. do LR fit galved parts these day? The seat will be set slightly inboard, the handbrake cable will feed into an ammo box bolted into the central seat/cubby position with the handbrake handle bolted to the front of the ammo box, giving me a pretty bomb proof cubby and a flat surface to lay stuff on. I wont get cramp putting the brake on any more. I have already swapped out the old massive steering wheel for a 14 inch one and low profile boss. I will be getting some series two part doors to replace the completely naffed doors on there at the moment. I hate winders and the mechanism makes the door profile deeper so giving less space in the cabin. I am tall and wide so any gains in space are a big plus. Eric

Talk about luxury, I've just got a 16 foot drive! Admittedly I have a pit built in to the end of it next to my office window. All the tools mentioned above, plus a bandsaw, mig and arc welders, 200 litre compressor and sand blaster, 3000 degree home made furnace (dont ask), metal detector and a garden full of flint knapping waste and flint nodules. Thats my back garden by the way, my drive is on the front of the house. Also some very self important neighbours who see it as their duty to regularly report me to local councilors and police claiming I am obstructing the highway (which I am not), and a recently acquired flightless blackbird who had his wing mangled by said neighbours' cat. He sits about 4 feet away from me when I am out fiddling with my 110, watching intently while nibbling worms I find under my crawler every morning. When it rains or snows he roosts under the roof of my bird table. Pictures to follow. Eric

witham have some wide track trailers for auction at about £200, and an unissued wide track tub. Depends if you mind driving that far to collect Eric

Just been checking out your rebuild. Impressive stuff. I reckon cutting a dip in the front of the seat box and rivetting a sheet of ally to the bottom of the seat mounting plates will do it. At the lowest setting I just need to make a trough of about 3cm. Flattening out the slope of the seat box with triangular cut box profile will allow the seat to run backwards to its maximum without fouling on the bulkhead upright. I was about to start renovating my bulkhead too but I have had an offer of a complete bulkhead and dash for £500 so I will just replace it and sell the old one.

Each to his own I guess. I find chequer cold and slippery. I use my trailer and will use my renovated 110 for camping and metal detecting trips, and use the large internal space as a tent. Wood and rubber are far more comfortable to sleep in and warmer than bare metal. Condensation isnt so much of a problem and padding around in socks or bare feet is not too uncomfortable either. If your using the floor for carrying loads and messy stuff this wouldnt be a consideration. Eric

Thats the kind of thing I mean. I think they use something like it for antislip surfaces on grp boats. Eric

Hi, I picked up a wide track from witham last year. I tried indispension for a hitch but they didnt have a hitch that would take the nato ring. I have a countrywide farm supplies near me. they stock farm vehicle hitches with the ball on top, a pin running through the ball and a large curved receiver which can take the nato ring easily. cost about £30. just be aware these hitches are not type approved for cars made after 1990. they are bright orange so easily spotted by inspectors. I painted mine black and added a rubber insert to stop the ring slamming. Also please note the nato ring doesnt rotate so should be attached to a rotating hitch or one with enough space to allow the large rotation possible in off road situations. if the trailer turns over it WILL take your vehicle with it. If it doesnt have lights or compatible wiring you will need a light board too. Eric

CW, adding a sprinkle of sand would improve grip but sand tends to encourage slime growth. Using some kind of roofing grit would have the effect without the risk of eventual slipperiness. I intend coating the inner panels of my 110 front doors when I eventually replace them. Cant fault it for waterproofing and air tightness. You can use it to line pools tooo so its pretty useful stuff and non toxic when set. Eric

Tried the driver seat today. At its lowest setting and furthest back it was just he job. Haven't found if there's a seat heater yet but I intend to plug everything in to a 12 volt power supply to check it out. Eric

Anyone any experience of fitting Range Rover Classic leather electric seats into a defender 110? I have bought the seats and checked the electrics and motors on them and they are good to go. I have a complete wiring harness for the driver side but the passenger side front is missing a wire. Its the memory type but I dont intend using that part of the wiring. I could cobble together a switch pack for it but I have tried to source a replacement with no luck. The base mounting runners will need welding or bolting to a seat heightening rail for fitting to the seat box but that is a job I can manage. Anything else I should know about before I go for it? Eric

Do it up and sell it. The longer you keep it, the more attached you will get to it. I am in the process of stripping down a 110 on my drive. The snow is slowing me down but I dont need it for a daily car so I can take my time. As I get closer to the chassis the more rust and corrosion of panels and parts I am finding, although the chassis is in good condition. If you have time then strip it and rebuild it. If not then make it safe and tidy then advertise it. If you can put some outrageous engine into it it will sell quickly. Good luck! Eric