Meatslicer

If the cappings are re-manufactured, you may need to grind down the galv layer on the inner/under side where the capping rests on the tub sides. The process used can leave drip accumulation on the inner surfaces. Thats why you usually have to re-tap any threads on re-manufactured parts that have threads already in them. If they don't quite line up with your holes try grinding the lower inner edge of the cappings. Also for the seal, when I removed the cappings on my 110, there was a really heavy duty glued sponge material holding and sealing the cappings on. The thickness of this type of seal can elevate the replacement capping and mess with the alignment. Eric

I got some 13 inch landrover pattern wheels from indispension that drop the sankey height by a good 4 inches. Actually moving a sankey without wheels on would do you an injury unless you are using a winch. how about removing the wheels and tub and laying flat on the floor of the container, drive the Landy up over it, should be enough clearance. Dont the army just turn the sankey upside down and on top of the landy deck then pack all the panels and roof etc around it? Eric

Its the terminal cover for the battery, the peg at the side slots into the hole on the battery case. Cant tell if its the positive or the negative one though Eric

I made my sankey trailer/caravan conversion using a series 90 roof, there are a lot fewer curves to worry about at the front end and the width is just a little wider than the sankeys main base struts. Defender 90 roof rack will fit too giving additional storage on top. I bolted a wooden beam using yhe original bolt holes to screw the sides to it. These were made of double thickness plastic fencing panels which gave it additional strength, water proofing and lightness. Are you using the nato hitch and what will you be towing with? The hitch on mine had to be inverted and smaller sized wheels put on instead of the original defender type wheels, so the trailer would travel level on the road instead of nose down behind a standard height tow car. Eric

Blocked jets or leaking fuel pump? Any smell of diesel in the engine bay? (More than normal!) Next thing would be hand pump a large amount of fuel to check for air/vapour locks in the fuel lines. Even further back, is the breather clear? try turning over with fuel cap off. if it flows the breather is blocked with dirt or grease. Eric

Bring it on!

I was going to chip in that removing or reducing the thickness of the bulkhead footwell to chassis shims would bring the bulkhead forward at least 10mm. Depends if the gap is the same all round or the bulkhead is leaning back a little. When I welded on the OS rear body outrigger on my 110 my bifocals made me think it was straight and level but when I mounted the tub it was definitely forward and when I checked it, it was 15mm forward at the outer edge. Changed my glasses to single focus after that! Eric

Blimey, thats exactly what I was planning to do with mine! I would only be expanding sideways about 3-4 inches each side but the theory is the same. Its all just a matter of cutting extra pieces and welding them on almost as extensions. The bulkhead widening is exactly as i had imagined it. Eerie. Eric

My Sankey trailer has been sitting on my drive for a year. Towed it off the other day and it moved sweet as a nut. Heavy duty mechanics on this thing. There was a 300kg land rover engine on it though so there was plenty of pressure on the wheels! Eric

Sorry gents, managed to break an ankle building a new kitchen for the wife. A step ladder decided it didnt want to wait for me to get off before it moved sideways. Been in plaster up to my knee and on crutches. Completely stripped the Landy down to the chassis and beyond. Welded on new front and rear outriggers and patched the bits of rusty chassis as I have been finding them. Chopped off the rear cross-member and replaced it with a TDI one. I am in the process of rebuilding it now into a 5 door soft-top (ish)! I know it sounds bonkers with the weather we get here but I want to strip out as much weight as possible because I am changing the 200td engine for a 2.5 NA recon army lump. I plan to be able to repair or replace parts in the field as it were, so turbo's are not my bag. My current plan is to rebuild the body from the chassis up, with series doors at the front so no winders to restrict me. Ive found some nearly new B and C posts and sills off a roof-damaged donor that I can cut and reweld into a good pair. Then I will be cutting the original rear tub back internally to give me a dropped floor and space to put in seats if I want. I dont have any second row doors yet, so I'll be riveting the sides of the tub onto where the doors should be. It'll look a bit like a station wagon but there wont be any door handles at the back. Ive got a wolf desert sand coloured soft top roof which sits higher than the standard civilian rag top so the sticks and bars will need to be lifted, and a rad-haz inner insulation kit to keep me warm in Winter,Spring and Summer, Autumn should be ok!) I have made a hand brake mounting box from an ammo box so it will have a little cubby box in between the seats, the seats will be inboard of the original position and be electrically adjustable. The seat box front will have to be trimmed a bit to let the seat motors pass over it but it will still be fairly standard otherwise. The centre seat box cover will need to be beefed up a little to take the ammo brake box, and holes cut in both to allow the cable through. I have a smaller steering wheel, and a TDCI dashboard which will be trimmed up from the bottom to allow the gear-stick to move freely. The TDCI gear stick is further back and shorter so I will be playing around making a cranked stick for myself. The rest of the dash will be rewired neater and tidier than the original, the fuse box will be under the drivers side seat. You'll be interested I am sure that I've managed to ruin one welder, two grinders and several hand tools in getting this thing cut up. Practically every bolt sheared or needed grinding off. The design of some of the chassis cross members is really daft. The one just forward of the fuel tank looks like it was designed to collect muck and road salt and hold it in place for years out of sight. I will be welding on baffle plates when I have repaired all the rusty bits at each corner. Eric

I lifted my 110's tub up by putting galv'd link plates up through all the upper body mounting holes and attached chain through all of them and over an engine hoist arm set at maximum reach. Lifted it up about 3 feet, just enough to get myself and a welder under the tub to sort out the multitude of rusty holes hidden by the previous owner with filler and oily mud! Because I put in a bulkhead removal frame before I lifted it off it hasnt buckled the tub edges and there is a plank of wood set between the rear tub edges to stop the back folding in. If I could have lifted it a few inches first I would have mounted the chains on the floor which would have given me a few more inches height when lifted My only problem is banging my head repeatedly on the ends of the floor supports every time I get under there. They are set at just the right height to attempt to scalp me. A few more inches would have probably helped but I got lazy when it was already lifted. My sankey trailer came in handy to assemble the new chassis and body parts that will be going on in the next few weeks, so I could work out if I have all the parts I need. I am making a soft top station wagon body from a van hard top. Missing a few angle brackets that were not fitted to the van body, so that was a good move. Amazing how many solutions we can all come up with to the same problem. Eric

bit of heat and a rubber mallet will help shake any seized drums. releasing the brake adjusters wont help till youve unstuck the brake shoes from the drum inner. Eric

I'm doing something similar with a 110 van body, making a station wagon out of it but I'll be leaving the body panels covering where the second row doors would be, riveting them on to the c post outer so it will still look a bit van'ish from the outside. I will put rear doors on it at some time but they are a bit too expensive for the moment to get a good set. I did toy with the idea of getting some series front doors and cutting them down to fit the space but its a bit of a faff. (My Landy will eventually be a 5 door soft top with the rear load space doubling as sleeping quarters and storage.) Working out where to cut is gonna be a bit of a job, and I only have one go at it. Scary stuff! Good luck old son. Eric

Only problem I have with the autodarkening helmet is the darn thing keeps blackening when Im moving my head into position. Any small bump like getting under the rear tub which is up on a winch to weld up the rear crossmember, seems to act like a spark flash and darkens it. Otherwise its a must. Eric

I almost had these done but now I'm going for a full length soft top on my 110. I will be having cameras on the sides to help with visibility. Works out about the same price and I have fresh air when I want it. (Given the British weather!) Eric