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Meatslicer

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About Meatslicer

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    Member

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  • Location
    Llantrisant, South wales

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  • Interests
    Off roading, off road trailers, welding, fabrication,metal detecting, bronze casting, flintknapping
  1. If the cappings are re-manufactured, you may need to grind down the galv layer on the inner/under side where the capping rests on the tub sides. The process used can leave drip accumulation on the inner surfaces. Thats why you usually have to re-tap any threads on re-manufactured parts that have threads already in them. If they don't quite line up with your holes try grinding the lower inner edge of the cappings. Also for the seal, when I removed the cappings on my 110, there was a really heavy duty glued sponge material holding and sealing the cappings on. The thickness of this type of seal
  2. I got some 13 inch landrover pattern wheels from indispension that drop the sankey height by a good 4 inches. Actually moving a sankey without wheels on would do you an injury unless you are using a winch. how about removing the wheels and tub and laying flat on the floor of the container, drive the Landy up over it, should be enough clearance. Dont the army just turn the sankey upside down and on top of the landy deck then pack all the panels and roof etc around it? Eric
  3. Its the terminal cover for the battery, the peg at the side slots into the hole on the battery case. Cant tell if its the positive or the negative one though Eric
  4. I made my sankey trailer/caravan conversion using a series 90 roof, there are a lot fewer curves to worry about at the front end and the width is just a little wider than the sankeys main base struts. Defender 90 roof rack will fit too giving additional storage on top. I bolted a wooden beam using yhe original bolt holes to screw the sides to it. These were made of double thickness plastic fencing panels which gave it additional strength, water proofing and lightness. Are you using the nato hitch and what will you be towing with? The hitch on mine had to be inverted and smaller sized wheels
  5. Blocked jets or leaking fuel pump? Any smell of diesel in the engine bay? (More than normal!) Next thing would be hand pump a large amount of fuel to check for air/vapour locks in the fuel lines. Even further back, is the breather clear? try turning over with fuel cap off. if it flows the breather is blocked with dirt or grease. Eric
  6. I was going to chip in that removing or reducing the thickness of the bulkhead footwell to chassis shims would bring the bulkhead forward at least 10mm. Depends if the gap is the same all round or the bulkhead is leaning back a little. When I welded on the OS rear body outrigger on my 110 my bifocals made me think it was straight and level but when I mounted the tub it was definitely forward and when I checked it, it was 15mm forward at the outer edge. Changed my glasses to single focus after that! Eric
  7. Blimey, thats exactly what I was planning to do with mine! I would only be expanding sideways about 3-4 inches each side but the theory is the same. Its all just a matter of cutting extra pieces and welding them on almost as extensions. The bulkhead widening is exactly as i had imagined it. Eerie. Eric
  8. My Sankey trailer has been sitting on my drive for a year. Towed it off the other day and it moved sweet as a nut. Heavy duty mechanics on this thing. There was a 300kg land rover engine on it though so there was plenty of pressure on the wheels! Eric
  9. Sorry gents, managed to break an ankle building a new kitchen for the wife. A step ladder decided it didnt want to wait for me to get off before it moved sideways. Been in plaster up to my knee and on crutches. Completely stripped the Landy down to the chassis and beyond. Welded on new front and rear outriggers and patched the bits of rusty chassis as I have been finding them. Chopped off the rear cross-member and replaced it with a TDI one. I am in the process of rebuilding it now into a 5 door soft-top (ish)! I know it sounds bonkers with the weather we get here but I want to strip out as
  10. I lifted my 110's tub up by putting galv'd link plates up through all the upper body mounting holes and attached chain through all of them and over an engine hoist arm set at maximum reach. Lifted it up about 3 feet, just enough to get myself and a welder under the tub to sort out the multitude of rusty holes hidden by the previous owner with filler and oily mud! Because I put in a bulkhead removal frame before I lifted it off it hasnt buckled the tub edges and there is a plank of wood set between the rear tub edges to stop the back folding in. If I could have lifted it a few inches first I w
  11. bit of heat and a rubber mallet will help shake any seized drums. releasing the brake adjusters wont help till youve unstuck the brake shoes from the drum inner. Eric
  12. I'm doing something similar with a 110 van body, making a station wagon out of it but I'll be leaving the body panels covering where the second row doors would be, riveting them on to the c post outer so it will still look a bit van'ish from the outside. I will put rear doors on it at some time but they are a bit too expensive for the moment to get a good set. I did toy with the idea of getting some series front doors and cutting them down to fit the space but its a bit of a faff. (My Landy will eventually be a 5 door soft top with the rear load space doubling as sleeping quarters and storag
  13. Only problem I have with the autodarkening helmet is the darn thing keeps blackening when Im moving my head into position. Any small bump like getting under the rear tub which is up on a winch to weld up the rear crossmember, seems to act like a spark flash and darkens it. Otherwise its a must. Eric
  14. I almost had these done but now I'm going for a full length soft top on my 110. I will be having cameras on the sides to help with visibility. Works out about the same price and I have fresh air when I want it. (Given the British weather!) Eric
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