renault4

does he have to remove the half shaft?

a little bit of play in all of the components can add up to a big clunk so it's best to try and eliminate these first, however a worn input shaft in the gearbox/transfer box is very likely, especially for the age of your gearbox and that too produces a big clunk but you can check for this first. the input shaft connects to a gear in the transfer box and it is just behind the power take off plate (a round plate next to the transmision brake drum) there are pictures of this and how to change it in the technical archive.

Hi Thierry, you have a timing belt

this is what I did with my 90 last year (no pics I'm afraid ) drill a hole in the side of the n/s wing directly in line with the underside of the heater, then push a piece of flexible hose to reach the air box and connect it. then bend the other end of the flexy to mate with the rigid part of the snorkle, make sure everthing is sealed up and tight and off you go (with the engine running just blow some smoke towards the snorkle and see it getting sucked in)

would putting a K&N cone filter on the end(top) of an home made snorkle work? or does the air filter need to be enclosed?

what's the accomodation arrangements?

just looking at the disco engine ready to go into the 110 and can't work out the intercooling pipe arrangements, I know the top intercooler pipe goes to the inlet manifold which of the other two goes to the bottom intercooler pipe and which goes to the air filter box?

land rover monthly magazine changed a brand new LHD dash for a brand new RHD dash some time last year, might be worth dropping them an e-mail to see if they still have it and how muh they want for it.

just taken thr tunnel off my bellhoising and the top of the gearbox (selector part ) is covered in oil it looks like it's coming from the selector box,whats happening?

are your shocks also + 3"? if not then you will be restricted by there travel limit

200Tdi, sorry I should have been a bit clearer

what's your hand pressing against? I thought I had to fit the seal into the flywheel housing first?

just bought an original crank rear oil seal (ERR2532) and it came with a white plastic insert? wtf? is this to aid fitting? if so can someone talk me through it.

Just putting a 200Tdi from a disco into my old 110 and spotted the rear crank oil seal was leaking so off came the flywheel and housing ready to fit the new seal, now behind the housing was the remains of a rather large gasket I'v scraped all the old bits of this gasket off the faces of the housing and block but in my land rover manual, it doesn't show a gasket but tells you to put a bead of Hylosil 120 sealant between the housing and block, so what to do? gasket, sealant or both?

thanks Pete, but what could be copper slip? as I said, the glow plug shaft was covered in OIL do I have a problem?

Just bought a 200Tdi from a disco 1 to put into my 110. I heard it running and it sounded sweet, just out of curiosity I whipped out a glow plug and the body of it was covered in oil, NOT the tip, just the shaft, is this normal? or have I bought a swede?

well he's giving you lotsw of info on his post, but if you are still not sure, you can pick one up from a motor factors for not much more (£80 or so) and you will have a guarrantee.

whilst staring into the murky deapths of my 2.5 TD 110 I notice that with the engine running, the crankshaft pully appears to "wobble" any ideas?

thanks chaps

I have been scraping all the rust and flaking paint off the wheel rims of my newly aquired 110 and have reveiled some information that I need explaining. between each bolt hole there is stamped the folowing; FV738903 (the dunlop symbol) then 964 J2N 5.5 F16 569690 Can anyone de-code this for me and let me know if they are the right one for my 110 1990 TD CSW.

looking at a reconditioned chassis with no V5 what's the DVLA position on this?

I'v just started to rebiuld my front axle and come up to my first hurdle.The bolts that hold the swivel housing to the stub axle are different to a normal bolt, these are multisided, a 14 ml. ring spanner fits, and this undid about half of them but just turned on the others, before I ruin the rest of the bolts can anyone tell me what spanner I need to remove these bolts?

the key snapped and then came out with the key and then fell in the snow and then dissapeared so, no bit of key, no partial turn, no magnet required just, how do I get the filler cap off?

My key for the filler cap has snapped,fortunatley I filled up yesterday and only do about 300 mile a month still, I dont wanr to become complacent, so any ideas how to a) get the locked fuel filler cap off b) get the lock barrel off so that I replace it F)use the filler cap if I can't replace the lock All sugestions welcome

Hi, as western says, gearbox and tran/box I bought a kit which included all the pipe,6 threaded breather fittings 4 T pieces and some cable ties. The reason I bought the kit was because I found oil seeping past my wheel bearings and this was caused by an axle breather being blocked and a pressure being built up. When I unscrewed the original breather, the fitting had a tiny bore and this was well blocked, the new fittings on the other hand have a bore of about 5mm.and are less likely to get bunged up. you can fit breathers on the bellhousing drain and the timing cover drain but as these have to be "drained" periodically it's best to leave these open (unles when going wading and then you should fit the wading plugs) BTW I ran these pipes through the engine dept. and drilled a hole through the bulkhead into the cab (fitted a grommet and sealed hole when finished) the hoses terminate in the dash, tie-wrapped together. (I figure if water is up to the radio inside, then I'm in the sh*t anyway.)