antichrist

Either genuine part number (never seen it) or a wiring stockist that has them. The heavy flag terminals shown here

When you set the swivel preload was it without the seal fitted and the measurement after overcoming inertia? Very basic I lnow, but often overlooked.

You can replace the center ball as well. Here's what it looks like (the red thing is just a keep for shipping) I don't know the part numbers of what's available in the UK. The Precision part number is 617 and the Neapco is 7-0081NG (It must have the NG suffix)

Not really needed for an 8274 mount. All the bolt need to do is to keep the winch from dropping to the ground when you're driving. When winching there's little to no stress on the mounting hardware. Now for winches than mount on the bottom or sides, yes, definitely high tensile.

Cool, thanks mate! Yeah, I looked at my pressure reducing valve and saw the threaded plug in it, so knew how to handle that, but thanks for the confirmation. Sorta hard to tell from the photos the difference, but one bloke on another forum told me he used the ABS MC on his Disco after removing the modulator and saw no difference in performance, so I'm guessing it's ok to use.

Interesting, both the ABS and non-ABS systems have the same part number for the pressure reducing valve, ANR3194.

Already done that. I don't want to fix it, I want to get rid of it.

Anyone know the difference between the ABS (STC1284) master cylinder and the non-ABS (STC1285) MC? My '95 Disco has ABS, but the modulators seem to fail in what I like to call "death mode", kicking in even on dry tarmac allowing you to go right through intersections. Needless to say, it can be quite exciting. So I'm thinking of just removing the modulator and am wondering if I need to switch out the master cylinder. The pressure reducing valve is the same, so I'm good there. I do find this much about them: ABS STC1284 = 25.4mm CV/CV Non-ABS STC1285 = 25.4mm AS/AS I don't know the difference. Thanks in advance.

Maybe I'm not understanding what you're saying, but with one wheel off the ground, if you rotate the wheel by hand it will in fact turn the propshaft if the axle and diff are both good. If it doesn't, either the axle or diff are shot, but either way you have to pull the axle.I know this works because that's how I rotate my propshaft to lube it, jack up one wheel and rotate it.

I normally replace the MC and SC at the same time. If one goes it seems the other inevitably fails when the other is replaced. Also, if the flex line is old, replace it too. They swell inside and absorb a portion of the pressure applied.

I've had shoes that had too thick material on them, but trying to center them would be the first step.

x2.I have 3 of them, in addition to a Ramsey RE10000 and a Koenig PTO. My first 8274 I've been using for over 30 years and it's a great winch. They go really nice on a Series Rover as well. There's room to mount them behind the bumper so they are pulling exactly in line with the chassis.

I don't know if you can find these in the UK, but I really like it. It's about 50cm in dia and holds enough oil I can do 2-3 changes without having to empty it and doesn't leak out when you set it on end, provided you remember to close the vent hole (the yellow plug). Don't ask me how I know. You can't really see it, but there's a screw out plug in the center you have to remove when using it.

Been there, done that. But if they are that bad I usually chisel them off and replace with a new nut.Sometimes there's enough left I can just grind all the burrs off on with my bench grinder and reuse them.

I took two old hub nuts, fitted some 6" lengths flatstock around them, and welded them up, then removed the hub nuts. Welded on a piece of flat steel on one end with an old 3/8" socket attached. I won't say it was totally free, but it was cheap

Was looking for something else and dredged up this thread. GL5 has extreme pressure additives that damage brass and bronze parts. I'm not 100% sure, but I think the LT230 has such parts in it, so you should only use GL4 spec, not GL5. In the diffs and hubs GL5 is fine.

I hope those are merely copper coated brake lines, and not copper line. Copper work hardens in a braking system and becomes brittle.

What made me think it might be coked up is because it doesn't start doing it right off.

Sorry, didn't mean to imply that was the answer, and to have petrol in the silencer would mean fuel or ignition (or both) problems to start with.

Turbos are indeed serviceable, and you can replace just the bearings, and that could be a DIY. However if you're taking it apart you might as well have it cleaned up and the compressor and wheel and turbine shaft/wheel balanced at the same time. The balancing would have to be done by a turbo rebuilder. If you don't have one near you it could be done by post, just sending them the two components. I'd follow others' advice before going to that extreme however.

The only thing flammable in the exhaust would be petrol. I'd be really surprised if you could get enough of a flame front to travel that far and also make it though the silencer. So that leads me to believe that it is running too rich, or actually dumping so much petrol into the cylinders that it's not burning and being pushed down the exhaust, possibly building up in the silencer. For it to get ignited it would need a good ignition source, which might be something that would happen when the engine is really coked up, bits flake off and get expelled out the exhaust while red hot/burning. You let your foot off the pedal and enough air gets sucked in the tailpipe to get the air/fuel mixture right and Kaboom! This is all theory, though I did have a silence split open because of backfires on a Series years ago. Unfortunately it's been so long I have no memory of what I did to sort it out.

Those are pretty easy to replace with greasable u-joints though. If they are available in the UK, I suggest Neapco 1-0005 u-joints. They have the zerk in the end cap and are much easier to lube on a DC.

I have one of these, only without the mains adaptor. http://www.targus.com/uk/product_details.asp?sku=APM12EU They may not make the kit like mine anymore.

You want a max volt drop of 0.5 volt. Welding cable will give better results than typical battery cable (more strands for a given size). If use vu-tron cable from Carol Cable, you can go one size smaller, compared to welding cable. If your stall amp draw is 450amps, a 10' #2 cable will give you a volt drop of 0.90 volts. To get down to 0.5 volts you'll need 0 (one aught), or 8.25mm dia, cable. 2/0 (a very large cable) will give 0.41 volt drop.