need4speed

Maybe I'm worrying about nothing then. I will put some tension on the belt and try and take some closer pics of the waterpump and crank pulleys. Maybe I could put a little tippex on the belt to make sure the belt isn't "bottoming out" on the pulleys??

My apologies. I've been saying pulley diameter when I should be saying groove width. It's the width that seems wrong. The groove width of my waterpump and crank pulleys are way too big for my belt. Yet it seems perfect for the alternator. See my 1st pic in OP. The belt fits the alternator groove perfectly but not the waterpump and crank. I'm stumped here

I think your misunderstanding me Ralph. It isn't the belt that's the problem. If I get a belt that properly fits the waterpump and crank pulleys, it will be too big for the alternator pulley. My alternator pulley is a smaller diameter than my waterpump and crank pulleys.

Yes that is exactly how I've done mine Ralph. The problem I have encountered though as I mentioned in OP, is the fact that the alternator belt I've got seems to narrow for the waterpump and crank pulleys. But strangely it's perfect for my alternator pulley. If I could find a pulley that would fit my Bosch alternator and would allow for a belt that matches the waterpump and crank pulleys that would suffice until I change to a serpentine setup..

Scratch that. Unless I find one on eBay. It's £100....

Ok Dave I will pick up one. So with the alternator and my steering pump both on the passenger side, please remind me what belt goes where? Am I right in thinking the waterpump will have a belt all to itself from the crank, and the alternator and steering pump will be connected together with another belt?

Maybe this is the alternator mounting I could use in conjunction with my type of steering pump?

I can't really make out your 2nd picture too clearly but my setup looks similar to this in so far as it has the alternator on drivers side and steering pump on passenger side. If you look at the pics in my op you will see what I have. And if you take a look at the 2nd pic in my post above you will see what type of steering pump I have. It's just not shown in the pics as I took it off to paint the mounting bracket.

Sounds like a sensible idea but I've no idea how I would implement it. The alternator is mounted on the wrong side for that. The waterpump is completely in the way.Edit: Sorry Dave, reading the last bit of your reply suggests I need to mount my alternator on the other side. Would the mount that I've attached be the one I need. Baring in mind I have the old style steering pump..

Thanks for the lengthy reply Dave. I think the problem is there are so many different v8 configurations and I've tried to utilise the parts I have. I think the 3.9 setup you mention where the alternator had a separate belt to the power steering pump was where the alternator is mounted on the passenger side, whereas I have the power steering pump mounted there. I really don't fancy having to change belts that often. If you were me how would you modify my setup to be more reliable? Other than going serpentine which I can't really afford right now. Edit: I noticed that the pulley on my steering pump has a 2nd groove but I just assumed it was for air-con or something..

Fair enough. The thing is my belt part number is what's listed for a v8 so I don't know why it would be too small for the standard pulleys? Also, if I were to buy a wider belt (which I would like to do for reasons I mentioned above) what alternator pulley do I need??

No John it is a non-standard fitment, but with a LR pulley attached. Can't remember what the pulley part number is. It was recommended by another forum member.

Got a v-belt to connect Bosch alternator on my v8. The belt (ETC7394) seems to be a perfect fit for the alternator pulley but looks a bit small for the waterpump and crank pulleys. To be honest I would rather use a wider belt, as in one that would better fit the waterpump pulley, especially as the alternator is 120A. But this would mean I would need a wider pulley for the alternator. Hmmmm.

You see! This is why I'm worried! I don't like the idea of wrecking my brand new Real Steel stump-puller or brand new genuine LR lifters because the thing won't start up... So I'm asking the MS guys what things would you double-check to give myself the best possible chance of it starting up straight away? Baring in mind that everything is "dry". How many times, or for how long will I need to switch the ignition on to make sure there is fuel in the lines/fuel rail etc.

Yeah I got the whole lot from Nige. I will leave well enough alone..

Thanks for that John. So should my cranking/prime table match the one you have shown above? I'm certain my wiring is correct, but then I guess most folks think that before they try to start it I will just need to hit it and hope for success..

Shouldn't be long now. But then I've been thinking that for a long time. Life always seems to get in the way I really am getting close now though 99% of the vehicle wiring done. Cooling system all but finished - just need to sort cooling fans. Exhaust manifolds fitted - just need to sort a td5 system from downpipes back. That's about it apart from some small details. Need to sort brakes and clutch pipes etc but that doesn't stop the big key turn

No worries. I didn't think you were being condescending at all I won't use a tyre gauge. I don't fancy spraying petrol everywhere. I've spent far too long on this to watch it go up in flames on 1st start lol. I'm also trusting Mr Barker sent the correct trigger wheel On any other engine I wouldn't be worried at all. I've started engines I've rebuilt or repaired before and not been bothered about cranking and cranking until it went, but the rv8 is supposed to HATE that to the point that cam/lifter interface is compromised. Maybe I'm overly worrying about this aspect of things??

But will the pump keep running even if the engine hasn't fired up? Surely if I keep the ignition on without actually starting engine, the pump will only run until a pre-determined pressure is reached?

I'm not concerned about oil pressure on startup. There are tricks to achieve this on the rv8. It was more fuel pressure I was concerned about. Baring in mind my whole vehicle is new. Everything is dry with regards tank/pump/fuel lines etc. I guess when I turn ignition on for 1st time I will hear the pump priming until pressure is achieved?? Also wondering how long I should attempt to crank before swapping the VR wires round, as this seems to be a common fault causing lack of spark with newly megasquirted engines..

Thanks for the offer Ross but I think I know where I'm at now. Missing parts as usual lol

Oh there's no fear of me not driving it hard, it's just getting the damn thing to fire up initially that worries me, Maybe I'm worrying too much about wiping the cam lobes and lifters.

Yep that makes sense. Thanks Ralph

Bugger. It appears that I'm missing those...

Just wondering how they fix at the rear? The gearbox lid has a slot that mates to the seatbox but the lids that are under the seats don't have this. At least mine don't? They have the slot for the clip at the front but they don't have anything at the rear..