need4speed

That helps a lot Mike. Thanks! At least I don't need to look at rerouting my main battery cable now that I've got it nice and neat..

I dunno Mo. That's why I asked for pics.... If your right then that's a bonus!

Thanks Ralph. I reckon I will have to reroute my starter cable as I have it clipped onto the top of the near side chassis rail before it disappears into the front of the seatbox. And I've got a sneaking suspicion that the brake pipe needs clipping onto the top of the chassis rail..

Hmmm that could be a neat solution Doug. As long as it's big enough - it's hard to get a sense of scale from the pic. Do you know roughly what kind of capacity it has in comparison with the standard V8 dustbin?

I'm about to purchase the long brake pipe that runs from front to rear on the 110 TD5 chassis. Was wondering if any of you guys happened to have a pic or two showing how it's clipped onto the chassis at various points. You see I've just run the main starter-battery cable on my 110 and I have a nagging suspicion that I've clipped into some holes on the chassis that is meant for the brake pipe..

Await part2 with bated breath.. All the best in hospital buddy.

Sorry for the slight tangent, but did I read Marks Adapters site correctly when I saw they do a conversion to fit the LS engine to the standard LR 4/5 speed manual? I know the LT230 is man enough for the task but surely an R380 would turn to chocolate in a very short period of time, regardless of how much finesse is used???

Have you managed to get the wolfs banded yet?

Nice. Looking forward to the pics. How loud do you think the treps will be on the road? Sorry for the slight hijack...

Oh my... How are you correcting the gearing?

Ahh yes but what's going on it now Ross??

Truer words were never spoken.. If you want a simple bolt-in conversion stick to an RV8. They are better than a lot of folk realise..

I did mention that in the OP.... Maybe dirtyninety will like that too! Lol What do you want for £15.50..

There weren't so many cheap 4.6's around when I built this engine... The engine didn't actually cost that much to build. In fact it was very cheap. I've spent waaaay more on the megasquirt stuff..

Yes that's a good point. That's why it's essential that quality bearings are used. I used Michigan77 as was advised..

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peddler Lol

Don't peddle it here sister...

Parkers! Pah! What the hell do they know... Never trust magazine or manufacturers 0-60 times. There meaningless. Trust me the old generation autos are miles slower than there manual counterparts. They sap so much power as Nige has already alluded to. Now the latest generation autos are totally different beasts but back in the old RV8 days there was no comparison. I'd still prefer one if I was in heavy traffic every day though

Machining the crank journals is not a problem. If it were a drag strip engine for sure you wouldn't want to do it but for normal road / off-road applications it's no trouble at all. And for folk that don't want to take my word for it, I got my advice from Ray at V8 Developments before I started my engine build. And Ray knows his oats...... Regarding the block I had a choice at the time - a used cross-bolted 4.0 or a spanking new 3.9 that was "red coded" which means it had the thickest cylinder walls that LR produced. Again, at the advice of Ray I used the new 3.9..

If all your mates have autos, then fit a manual and walk away from them on the road..

Nooooooooooo not an auto..... I dunno. You try and tell some folk.......

Sorry but that's not the case at all. No machining of the block is necessary at all. The only time you would need work done to the block is if you trying to make a 4.6 out of the 3.5 block. This is due to the 3.9, 4.0 and 4.6 all sharing the same bore. All you need to do is turn down the journals of the 4.6 crank from 2.5" to 2.3" and it fits the block like a glove. You are also wrong about the 4.6 crank weights fouling. Maybe this was a problem on very early 3.9 blocks but I doubt it. They are probably all the same. The cross-bolted block is a nice to have but it's certainly not essential. Especially on a LR. It would be more of a priority on an engine constantly at high revs like a racer. How do I know this? Through personal experience. That's exactly what I've done. I've built a 4.6 by starting off with a brand new 3.9 block that I got at a price I couldn't refuse. Fitted everything up using ARP studs to add a little strength.. Don't know how you have had the problems you mention in your post above??

Bit of a bargain find.. It's not me or a friend. Just thought someone might find it handy. Grab yourself a 4.6 crank and your golden.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-Land-Rover-P38-4-6-v8-pistons-job-lot-water-pump-starter-etc-/331635828696?hash=item4d370927d8

Welcome! Always good to see another 110HT. The best derivative of them all! 255/85-16 is the way to go if you like function over form, or 285/75-16 if you prefer form over function...... Edit: I'm getting the popcorn in because tyre threads always produce lots of conflicting opinions..

The funny thing is I looked on eBay for the sender, but when I didn't find one in this country I didn't think on looking there for the adapter..