need4speed

After purchase of the new TD5 wiper wheelboxes, will i need to alter the gearing of the 200TDI wiper motor? I understand that the larger TD5 wheelboxes have a different number of teeth on the gearwheel.

No they def dont fit Ralph. They are too big for the hole in the tub. Also, the new style lamps i have bought have 2 fixing screws to go into the tub whereas there are 3 holes in the tub itself. Not near defender at he mo so cant take any pics just now.

Just bought some new rear indicators to discover that they don't fit the tub. I bought later TD5 lamps seeing as I fitted a new TD5 chassis loom. Now find that the holes in tub are too small. Would it be better to enlarge the holes in tub to use later lights and loom connector or should I buy older 200tdi lights and adapt the loom?

Ive already got a windscreen wiper motor, though its untested. Just in case i need to change it i was wondering if all defender wiper motors are interchangeable? The old 110 parts book doesnt show any variance in motors but looking through various online parts stores, there seem to be 2 or 3 different types available? My new wheel boxes will be td5 ones but i know my motor definately isnt from a td5 - does this matter?

Whilst the inside of my bulkhead is bare I thought I would take the opportunity to renew the wiper wheelboxes. However the genuine parts are about £70 per pair. Aftermarket is about half that. Has anyone used the cheaper aftermarket parts? Should they be avoided or are they fine to use?

Well ive found a few bits and pieces today lurking in the shed. Not sure if they are any use for my R380/LT230 combination though. Apart from what i have here, what else will i need to purchase?

Thanks for the super-quick reply. Those pics are very helpful indeed. Looks like I've got a few more parts to get a hold of mind you...

If someone happens to have the transmission tunnel off their defender at the moment, I'd be grateful if they could possibly post some pics of the transferbox gear change linkage assembly. The old LT230 I rebuilt was bare without these parts.

Thanks Mav. Just hope that when fitting the gearbox tunnel etc everything lines up. Knowing my luck, probably not

Ive recently looked to fitting my new seatbox. Its mint condition but of unknown origin. Are all defender seatboxes the same? Also, are all defender seatbox lids interchangeable?

Ok James. Thanks for letting me know

Just about every man and his mutt has downloadad the "1987 onwards" defender parts catalogue but I was wondering if the same thing existed in pdf format for the newer tdci models?

Needing front nearside door internals for the new steel-type door I have fitted. Apart from the window, I don't have any of the internals at all. Was looking through my old 110 parts catalogue and wondered if things like window regulator, window channels etc etc were the same? I'd be interested to know if anyone had swapped old internals into later type door.

When I starting stripping down my old defender ages ago, I seem to remember being able to remove the seatbox without having the sill channels hang down at the back. I always thought they could be removed/fitted independantly of one another. However now that I'm putting the new seatbox etc in place it seems that the bolts for the seatbox flange and the rear of the sill channels go through the same holes in the tub. Am I missing a trick here? On inspection of the 110 parts catalogue it shows the bolts of the seatbox going in from the front but also shows the bolts of the sills going in from the opposite side. This can't be right can it? I've got the haynes service and repair manual AND the haynes restoration manual and not one of them shows it! Sorry for rambling but can't get to the bottom of it.

Look. I'll be honest. I have nothing personal against ashcrofts. I have spent loads on their stuff in the past which is maybe why i felt let down a little. Its like i said before, say the diff bearing is too loose, how are you supposed to tell if you need to add 2 thou of shim, 4 thou of shim, and so on... A rattle-slack fit is a rattle-slack fit. You cant tell that by feel. Anyway it doesnt matter now as i got a transmission specialist near me to lend me the special tools (that he uses every time) to double check the preload.

Daan I'm not slagging anyone off who didn't have a go at me first. I've been on this forum for years and found it very good and the people very friendly but to be honest regarding this matter your all just opening your mouths first and engaging brains second...

Yes its all very well saying dave et al are soooo good they can set preload by feel alone. What a load of rubbish. Its easy to tell if a bearing is too tight but what if its too loose. Can you really tell if the bearing is 2 thou slack by feel. Don't think so. I've lost my job and my workshop has been flattened so yes I'm trying to do this cheaply by not sending away to get done. Are you really saying that in the whole of ashcrofts workshop there is no LR setting blocks to give me a measurement? If not then ashcrofts have just taken a guess at all the diff bearing preloads. I guess the advice would have been different if I was about to spend £600....

Wow. Isn't it funny how whenever there's a slanging match going on everyone is quick to jump in but whenever you ask for some technical info that requires some thought all you get is tumbleweed...Dave I did end by saying that maybe you were busy but don't worry I won't be calling again. The 'not to loose, not too tight' wasn't really what I expected to hear. I already know that but hey if that's the technical way to set bearing preload who am I to argue......

Thanks for that Ralph. That could very helpful info. Will try and get in touch with them tomorrow. Reb you might have a point actually. As long as i get a block a suitable size for my dial gauge to reach.. Thanks

Dont suppose anyone knows the dimensions of this 'special tool' Thanks

No it is not a torque-to-turn setting. Its actually preloading the bearings that carry the diff itself within the casing. Thanks for at least replying though. I'm really surprised that the supposed wealth of knowledge on here hasn't done this before.

Or....maybe, just maybe that's why a few folk have had probs with ashcroft LT230 recon boxes.... Just a thought. Preloads ALWAYS need done. Especially if using a different casing from original.

Jeeeez...Has no-one done this?

Ok so im part-way through my LT230 rebuild. Im at the stage of setting the diff bearing pre-load. Theres no way i can afford all the 'special tools' that the LR rebuild manual suggests using. Does anyone know of a way to do this without spending ££££ on all the LR tools. Ive had a look through some LT230 rebuild posts on here but have not found any definitive info on this part of the box.

Im attempting to fit 2 new front doors to my build. Saying that im having difficulty is a major understatement. Its as if the door is too small for the hole! If i get the gap acceptable at the bulkhead side, theres a gap of about half an inch at the rear of the door and vice versa. Ive read on here that the bulkhead can be shimmed. In my case, the bulkhead needs to come back roughly half an inch, maybe a little less. Thing is, i understand that the shims are fitted between the bulkhead and the bulkhead brackets but what about where the bulkhead bolts to the chassis outriggers? Surely you need to fit shims of the same thickness here or it wont really make any difference what shims you fit to the brackets? Oh and ive measured the new aftermarket door compared with the old rotten original and they are the same size. Please help..