Hi James. Ive got no reason to think your being condescending. Although ive been at my project part-time over a few years im certainly no LR expert. Far from it! I'll compare what i have with what you've said and go from there.
Any idea how i go about routing it if its the 300TDi loom? From the little ive learned i understand i may have to drill hole in bulkhead! Is this really necessary?!
As title. Is there an easy way to tell the difference between the 2 if the part number sticker is absent?
My project uses a TD5 bulkhead and i understand that the wiring loom routing is different between the 300TDi and TD5. I bought a good wiring loom from a forum member a while back but he wasnt 100% which type it was. Obviously if its a TD5 loom, i can just route it a la TD5 but if its a 300TDi loom im unsure how i'll need to route it?
The gauges will be vdo oil pressure, voltmeter and clock. Not sure about what the switches will be feeding yet as i will have some more on a roof console as well. It sounds as though id be better fitting an additional fusebox. I'll aim to fit it in seatbox under drivers seat as the nearside seatbox will have 2 batteries in it. Is there any tips/tricks to fitting an extra fusebox? Im not that great with electrickery..
Im planning to fit a raptor dash incorporating extra carlling switches, 3 gauges and cd player. Will i need to run all the necessary wiring from an extra fusebox?
A 'friend' of mine discovered that the industrial carbon filters at his work removed the dye from the red diesel they run there forklifts on. I would just like to say that not a drop of it has passed through my tdci mondeo over the last 8 years.......
Got the timing gear fitted alright in the end. The problem lay with the woodruff key, or more accurately the prat who hammered it into the crank as far as it would possibly go! That took a bit of removing i can assure you. Anyhow all seems well with it now.
Thanks all for advice
Phil
Plenty of 4.6's have been made from 3.9 blocks. FYI some 3.9 blocks are cross-bolted (though mine isnt). Cross-bolting isnt really necessary unless high revs are being planned.
My engine has been built from a brand new 3.9 block, 4.6 crank/rods, 4.0 pistons, ARP hardware. Baring in mind that my engine wont be revving any higher than a normal RV8, the block is well up to it.
3.9 block / 4.6 crank / non-serp front cover.
As above according to rimmer bros, v8 tuner, real steel etc all crank timing gears are the same size. Im confused
Phil
Dont have the stuff that came off im afraid.
Just been looking at P-38 Spares.co.uk and according to them all RV8 crankshaft timing sprockets are same size from 3.5 - 4.6 so dunno whats going on here...
Started to setup the cam timing on my engine today. Got No1 to TDC then started to fit the adjustable timing set. A few things concern me however. I always thought that the crank timing gear needed tapping onto the crank? Mine slid on all the way using just me fingers. Also, there seems to be quite a large gap between the keyway and the gear. Could someone have hammered the keyway too far into the recess in the crank or is it ok?
I will post a pic later.
I already have the chassis harness in place. I also have a TD5 bulkhead harness and a megasquirt loom and ECU. Is there any more ECU's or harnesses needed to complete the wiring?
Could someone that has a fuel injected V8 please post some pics of the air-cleaner setup. Looking at the parts book it only shows the setup for carb'd models. Does the efi use the big air bin for example?
Although i have a RV8/R380 combination, the chassis of my project is TD5. Will i be able to use standard TD5 prop-shafts? Am i correct in thinking that the gearbox mounting points are the same on all defender variants?
Phil