need4speed

That bracket is just for the 90 isnt it?

You can cut out galvanic corrosion by various methods. During my build ive been using neoprene gaskets or washers anywhere steel meets ally. Ive also been using ptfe tape round the threads of bolts that got through the ally bodywork. Anything to stop the small current flowing between the two materials should work. I removed all the steel brackets rivetted on the inside of the ally rear panels, removed any corrosion, applied 3 thick coats of paint between the 2 surfaces, then re-rivetted tham back on.

Im thinking of installing this extra tank onto my 110. Does anyone know if this would fit onto my TD5 chassis without the addition of another outrigger? Think it fits underneath the drivers seat. Additional Tank Phil

Chris you have so many variables to consider here that there is, no doubt, going to be a huge split of opinion here... Ive been following your build and you have put a lot of effort, time, and as i know myself money into the build. Yes a 110 has more space and is a bit more practical, but is it enough of a difference to get rid of your 90? I dunno. If your plan was to originally get rid of the focus in order to have 1 vehicle instead of 2, then yes a 110 would definately be the way to go in my opinion. However if you are only going to overland the landrover occasionally then i would carry on and prepare your 90 to the spec of your liking. Remember, there is also the option of towing a small overland trailer for additional camping/survival gear. Another thing that may influence your final decision is whether or not you will regularly be carrying passengers. If its just you and a partner then the 90 is adequate. If more than 2 people then the 110 is a must. Something that tempted me into building a 110 instead of a 90 was the state the roads are getting into - and ive no doubt they are just going to get worse and worse... Every single 90 ive driven, no matter what the suspension setup has had a choppy ride over bumps - and that really irritates me. Its probably to do with the short wheelbase? No doubt some folks on here will flame me for saying that, but i can only say it as ive found it. By contrast, the very first 110 i drove had terrafirma light-load springs and it was like a magic carpet over bumps. I loved it, and decided thats how i was going to build mine. This is just a personal taste though, and some people prefer things crashing over bumps/potholes so dont take what i say for gospel. The focus is probably a cheap, reliable wee evreyday runabout compared to a defender so in my honest opinion it really depends on how often you intend to use the defender. Its a tough one Chris. Only you can decide because only you knows what you need on a day-to-day basis. I'll tell you what i think. I think that there is an itch in your brain that only building a 110 will cure........ Phil

You need to be careful with underlay as soundproofing in a defender. Isnt some types of underlay open-cell ie will soak up water if it gets wet?? I may be wrong. Im using 10mm thick closed-cell foam under the chequerplate on my wheelboxes. I will be gluing the stuff onto the inside of the sidepanels too. For the load area i will be using 17mm thick rubber stable matting which is as tough as it gets. The insides of the doors will be getting self adhesive dynamat stuff to stop any resonance.

The chassis came with bilsteins on the front. Dunno what they will be like. I'll try them and see. Have a look at my build thread for more details. I see your in glasgow as well... Do you do much offroading round these parts? Phil

That makes sense. I didnt have the old shocks. I'll order new ones. Thanks Dave Phil

Fitting new Terrafirma rear shocks to the 110. As can be seen from the pic, each box contains 2 dished washers, 2 bushes and a locknut. However the 110 parts book clearly shows that the shock should be assembled with 4 dished washers - 2 for the bottom mount and 2 for the top. Do i need to buy extra washers or do these shocks fit differently to the stock ones? Ive also included a (blurry) pic of the rear shock mount showing that they are not the standard ones. They were on the chassis when i got it so dont know what they are. Phil

You drive a defender! Slap her in the gob an throw her in the back!

Well. Had a look under the rocker covers today and the heads definately need to come off. Comparing what I saw with your pic, the guides will need shortened in order to fit the cam. Oh well.

Mmmm dunno. Is he SURE?!

As said above I think Exmoor have something in the pipeline but right now you can only get those through landrover. Exmoor sell something vaguely similar but nowhere near as good quality. There new ones may be better.

You can get away with using 2 brackets but I'm using 4 on my build. 2 on each outrigger.

As Ralph says above. However I'm slightly more concerned about the rear attachments. Yes the td5 has a separate piece but you will need to raise the rear of the tub to fit it I think.

There at £460 with over 4 days to go. Some people really are stupid. At that rate it would make more sense to buy em new. That's what makes me laugh about fleabay - people drive the price up way too soon.

James see my post above. The pic I attached is the Devon 4x4 rock sliders for a 110 Phil

Quite right sir. Get it right up the robbing bast*rds. Im getting sick of companies in this country thinking they can just charge what they like. All so the directors can add another 3 holidays a year, and a bigger boat to the collection...

However if you want to use rock sliders as steps too, there are types you can buy with 'tree sliders' attached... You can use these as steps.

Thanks for your help Bowie Phil

Yea on re-reading i know what you mean. If i have 0.5" or more travel before the cap hits the top of the guide i should be fine?

They are the later 10-bolt injection heads. The guides have not been bulleted. I'll try and compare the pic with what the engine looks like. Im not 100% sure how id go about measuring it the other way you mentioned re the compression..

What i meant was it might be prudent to give the front the once-over as well...

It now turns out that the heads may already have shortened guides! You see this engine isnt for my 110 - its already built and installed. Its for a capri. Speaking to my father (whos engine is going in the car) he cant remember if hes shortened the guides as the engine has been sitting so long ready to be transplanted. Is there any way i can tell if the guides have been shortened already without taking the heads back off again? Phil

Sorry. Enough hilarity. Check the lot young man. Check EVERYTHING!

Actually, reading above and noticing you dont actually have the truck yet, Maverik makes a valid point. The V8 trucks are cheaper to buy than the TDi's - even though there miles better... Phil