Spearos

Ok... tried once again to loosen nut, pulley started to slip. Tried the rag technique, couldn't get it to grip so I made this to hold the pulley. Idea being the 4 nuts sit inside it and a piece of tube is slid over the end to hold it. It held.... but my fan spanner kept slipping... So, out came the chisel/punch and hammer... Several heavy blows later it finally came free Can confirm it's a LH thread. Looked like someone had used threadlock on it!!! Removed belt and checked waterpump for play as I got pretty agressive with the hammer, there is a little but who knows, might have been there before. Something to keep an eye on. New one installed, used a little copper grease on the threads to prevent seizing. Is this wise? I nipped it up with the spanner and then gave the spanner a couple of light knocks with a hammer to tighten. Tested the fan using the rolled up newspaper technique - it was possible to stop the fan while engine was cold. Fingers crossed job done. Very satisfying when you finally overcome such stubborn fittings. Thank you everyone for your input

I do have a 'special' spanner... and a length of tubing which slips over the end for extra leverage. However I have read that a quick, sharp strike usually frees it off and gets things moving, however I have read concerns about reducing the life of the waterpump bearings through striking the nut/shaft?

Curiosity got the better of me! Just been out and had a look at the replacement part and it looks like a LH thread!... Assuming I've got the right replacement part!!!

Hmmm still a bit unclear, it would seem that the thread direction is different from one year to another, one model to another! Just had a 'lightbulb moment' perhaps I can determine the thread from the new part!! Will have a look tomorrow...

It's being a person I'm not that keen on! Had a spare hour or so today so thought I'd quickly replace the viscous unit as it's permanently locked and tick that off my ever growing 'to do' list. How wrong was I - it's seized solid! Using a large pair of water pump pliers I can hold the WP pulley - there's a handy little hole that the teeth on the pliers can 'bite' into to hold it but try as I might the 32mm wrench just slips so I thought I'd stop before the nut is properly screwed. Done some reading tonight and it appears it's quite a regular problem, however seems to be a lot of conflicting information regarding whether it's a LH or RH thread. So I thought I'd ask the question specifically for an '88 3.5 V8 on carbs? The fan turns clockwise viewed from the front. I tried the nut clockwise and anticlockwise but thought I'd (try to) find out which way the thread is before I continue. Plus Gas is soaking in as I type, hopefully tomorrow I'll get chance to get violent with it!!!

I have to admit I haven't got round to checking these clips - so many things on my 'to do' list at the moment. However, when I replaced the drum it was a bit tight to install so I loosened the adjuster one notch and so far I haven't experienced the juddering. So, although the drum rotated freely before removal perhaps the 'tight' handbrake exaggerated the movement of the bottom show caused by a loose clip. Either way, the fact it now appears ok would suggest that the judder is/was caused by the handbrake so if it's back I know the first place I'll be looking! It did cross my mind the other day, is it possible that play/wear in the transmission even cause this?

Nice One - I'd be interested in that, would be very handy to print off and have them all in one place.

Quick update - new master cylinder seems to have sorted it. Predictable braking is back! Got myself an eezi bleed kit and I'm impressed but was wondering do you guys clean/flush out the kit after use?

Phosphoric Acid is what you need. I have had good results from using Jenolite and wire wool - the corrosion hasn't returned and it's been over 2 years. HTH

Quick Google reveals this (unless I've misunderstood) - http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Coolant-Temperature-Sensor-M14x1-5-2-pin-white-035919369M_act_shop.product_pID_33465593_lang_EN_country_GB.htm

As Cynic-al says above ask yourself what are you going to be doing with the machine, what do you expect the machine to do? This should help you decide what would be suitable for you...

Good man dailysleaze, I now know exactly what I'm looking for!

Ok... Finally managed to get the drum off and have a look - all looks fine, remarkable clean/free from carp as you can see - Whilst the drum was off, I operated by hand the lever the cable attaches to and observed the shoes moving and returning. They appeared to move freely, although the little piston mechanism (on the right in pic) did seem a little dry. I guess the only thing that really could be deemed necessary is if this was cleaned and greased - IIRC this can be overhauled? So, does it look like the handbrake isn't the cause of this 'stuttering'? Where should I look now? Onlt just seen your reply eightpot and TBH I'm not entirely sure which bit you mean, but I am sure if I have a good look at the linkage (it's pretty messy from memory) it'll all become clear!

The other day I had a little feel of the handbrake drum and it felt free, so I'm now thinking (hoping) that it is only sticking intermitantly perhaps? The lever definitely doesn't drop to the floor on it's own. Once I'm back from Poland I pland to 'get in there' and inspect/clean/adjust. Will report back then! Cheers for the input guys!

Thanks again Jack, very comprehensive! I'll give it a turn by hand and see what it feels like. I think once I get chance I will take the handbrake drum off anyway and clean/inspect/adjust the handbrake as even if it isn't sticking it will be of benefit, plus I'm a little nosey and want to 'discover' another little part of my 90!

Many thanks for the explanation/clarification Jackbw28 - I had read about the improved cross drilled gear, but didn't realise that if the gearbox shaft is fecked it means that much more than just a replacement gear will be needed!! From memory the hand brake does need to be manually lowered to the rest position, I will double check tonight when I leave work...

Carbs... Interesting question - I see the direction you're going with this... Possibly!

Fingers crossed it's the handbrake then! Embarrassingly enough I've never cleaned/inspected/adjusted the handbrake in the 5+ years I've had the Landie - it's gave me no grief, if it ain't broke don't fix it! I will check this out once I get chance, won't be any time soon though as I have 3 twelve hour shifts to do then off to Poland for 10 days... As for the cross drilled input gear I have no idea. AFAIK the transfer box is the original and has had no work carried out on it. Now, input gear? Would this be the gear that receives drive from the gearbox? I really need to do some reading/learning!

The other day on a piece of dual carriageway I was caught in some very slow moving traffic where for a long period of time I was travelling at approximately between approx 5 and 10mph. Now this was mostly done in 1st or 2nd gear with light, yet steady use of the throttle. Whilst 'crawling' along my 90 was juddering/kangarooing, almost like drive was being applied on and off with small surges forward - hard to explain, but if I let off the throttle or increased throttle it seemed to 'sort' it's self out. Would could be the cause of this? I'm guessing the likely cause is driveline slack/wear but from where? What kind of things should I check? Half shafts and drive members appear to have little play A frame ball joint ok UJs fine, no play in props I am worried that there is possibly extreme wear in my axles/transfer box but dont know where to start with assessing what wear there is. I have searched but tbh any answers I found have confused me further! Next chance I get I want to check the handbrake as I understand that can cause similar symptoms if it's dragging slightly?

Interesting idea - do you mean ducktape on the skin as seriebil.dk says, and then PU between the tape and the door frame?

PU sealant it is then!!! Heard good things about the stuff from Toolstation and at under £4 a tube I'm giving it a go... http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adhesives+Sealants/General+Sealants/Polyurethane+PU40+Sealant+310ml+White/d180/sd2350/p67949 Cheers

I will be fitting some new alloy door skins to some refurbished frames soon and it seems there's two lines of thought - to 'bond'/seal the skin to the frame with Tigarseal or similar, or, to not use anything with bonding properties, just something to isolate the two metals. I like the idea of using a PU sealant but I cant help but think that *IF* the skins need to come off in the future it will be a right sod! How did the doors leave the factory? Is there anything I could use that will bond/seal/isolate the two metals but won't be a pig if seperation is needed at a later date? I was thinking some kind of instant gasket type stuff perhaps? I've also seen this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12mm-Wide-Heavy-Duty-Double-Sided-Strong-Adhesive-Tape-/360315223992?pt=UK_Crafts_Cardmaking_Scrapbooking_Glue_Tape_EH&hash=item53e475ffb8 Part of me says just whack some PU sealant on there and be done with it but first I'd like to hear what people have to say on this matter... Cheers

My two bobs worth : Think back to what inspired you to start the project in the first price, what was it that made you want to do it in the first place, what did you want to achieve? Are you going to give up and let it beat you??! C'mon!!!!

I simply clamped a piece of angle on the hub face in a position that was easy enough to measure from side to side. I do remember it being a bit awkward! It was far from accurate I'm sure, but after all it's a Land Rover and there appears to be no uneven tyre wear. I've done a fair bit of reading about setting tracking on a LR, and this comes up quite often - the importance of the steering box being centered. So true!!! If you do it yourself, you know it's done properly... or at least to your standard, however low or high they may be!!!

Another vote for Namerick and Smith and Allen. For mail order fasteners I also use https://www.spaldingfasteners.co.uk/ I've always had first class service from them. They have an ebay shop too, username is trimm51.