Snagger

Arguably true, but if you speak to the DVLA, they will tell you that the rules apply to the dimensions and structure of the chassis, not bracketry, or at least that is what they told me ten years ago. That suggests that moving a cross member to accommodate Defender steering or a longer transmission may be acceptable too. What they don't accept is a change in suspension mountings, wheel base or overall dimensions, though as previously mentioned, they don't seem concerned by bobtails. I didn't ask about this bracket, but I did ask about engine mounts before I ordered the new chassis, and that was the guidance they gave me. I think their view is that if you're not chopping lumps off the chassis, then it is not being significantly altered. The same would apply to roll cage mounts or mountings for extra suspension dampers. Even drilling holes to fit a Defender long range auxilliary fuel tank or water tank could be viewed in that way but is not.

I agree, because there is no reason to believe the vehicle isn't completely original, with just a little bit cut off. I have never heard of a bobtail being sent for IVA or the owner being in hot water, presumably because the DVLA can see the issue for what it is an use some discretion in the cases they are aware of. Likewise the hybrids are not going to face many problems unless other mechanical mods are made. The rules are clear, what is less so is the latitude given for infringing them.

A bobtailed RR/Discovery would indeed need IVA, just like the Designa coiled Series chassis based vehicle or a 6x6. Even the 100" RRC/Defender hybrds need them as the chassis, while unaltered in wheel base, have altered rear cross members, out riggers and rear rail ends, regardless of the body work being irrelevant and all the mechanical parts being from the donor RRC. The steering issue of strap on hyd assistance has been proven with the bolt-on ram kit for Series LRs - I had it from the DVLA themselves when I did my rebuild that as it is a supplemental rather than replacement system, with the original system still fitted, then the points are retained. I never bought the system due to various reasons, cost being a big one, and recently sacrificed two points by fitting Defender/P38 hybrid steering. As far as the engine is concerned, while the word "specification" might not appear, the rules state that for the engine to count, it must be the original engine (not just one of the same type). While repair and reconditioning is perfectly allowable (often necessary for emissions, frankly), modification is not. In that, it is the same principle as the chassis - you can use a brand new one, but it has to be of original specification. I concede that the rules are poorly written; laws invariably are, which is why lawyers make so much money by twisting and distorting them to make loop holes. But that is a conscious act. However, if you read them dispassionately without trying to read in allowances for altering a list of things you want to do, they're fairly easily intelligible and clear for practical purposes. The greyishness will afford some protection for those who knowingly break them, and aspects such as retaining the original casings on older vehicles will never work - only engine numbers were kept with VIN details, so no DVLA inspector would ever know that you have replaced axles or transmissions like for like, and the steering boxes and relays weren't even numbered. So, you could easily build up a new vehicle from a new chassis and reconditioned parts and stick an old VIN on it; there would be no way to tell if you used period spec parts. But that is what the rules attempt to stop.

A loose wire run from battery post to the motor resistor terminals would test that.

Yep, you lose the chassis, suspension and axle points straight away.

Chicken, are you just trolling here? If you fit hydraulic assistance rams to the existing steering, then you obviously retain the points for the steering as the original system is still in place, you have merely added an accessory to it. As for changing the capacity of an engine, then it is plainly obvious the specification has been altered and it no longer constitutes the same engine, even if you used the same block, so you lose that one point. Springs are service replacement parts, but dimensionally different suspension arms are not, so swapping springs is acceptable but proper lift kits with castor correction arms will lose the two associated points. That won't "bugger" many people as most with lifts haven't made enough other changes that the two suspension points are critical. Series and coiler axles are clearly different specifications, and cannot possibly be construed as a direct replacement, as much as I'd love for that to be the case as it'd allow me to swap out the transmission too, points wise. The rules are also fairly clear in that to qualify for retaining the points on a rebuilt, the assemblies need to be the originals units, not just of the same spec, except the chassis if supported by a sales document to prove it's new and consumable parts like brake components, springs, dampers, bushes, seals and the like. So, the axles, engine and transmission need to be the original items fitted in the factory. They are allowed to be repaired with new parts, so in essence the rules are that the engine block and axle and transmission cases muste be original, not necessarily their innards, but still retaining original spec (ie. no over boring or stroking). Otherwise, you'd be able to build a new vehicle out of second hand or rebuilt assemblies and a new chassis and stick any old VIN on it, which would obviously be ringing. You are applying extreme lack of logic to a fairly simple system. Whether it be because you want to justify breaking the rules or are just spoiling for a fight on the forum I don't know, but everyone else can see how it works, so why are you continuing to argue pointless semantics?

If you're having to buy new, then they're probably similarly prices, but the LaSalle version is much more rugged - it doesn't sag, get damp, delaminate or get damaged by scrubbing clean.

I'm afraid so - the tubes were just cut away with a grinder as they were damaged and useless, but I wanted to keep the diff as it was in good condition. I't quite possible the plug welds are just holding in a locating dowel that passes through the drilled hole in the casing and into a matching hole in the tube, but that is just speculation. I know somebody replaced the tubes on a bent axle, I think he was in South Africa. If it wasn't on this forum, it'd have been on ExpeditionPortal.com . AN alternative tould be internal sleeving in the existing tubes - they have plenty of internal space without getting close to the half shafts.

The rules are relatively clear in practice. Any vagueness is because you're overthinking it. If you replace an assembly, as long is it is an equivalent part to the same operating spec, then no problem, but if the specs are different, then you have an issue. So, in the cases of the previous examples: Steering - changing Defender to Discovery is not a problem as they are equivalent. Changing Series to Defender is an alteration. Changing track rods or drag links to HD is also not a problem as they are regarded as service replacement parts; Engine - swapping an engine of the same type is no trouble, but changing capacity, fuel type or more is, so not only going from a 12J to Tdi, but even going from 10J (2.25) to 12J (2.5) is an alteration; Axles - swapping D90 and Discovery/RRC axles is no problem, but swapping them onto a 110 would be an alteration because of the rear axle differences. Swapping between different versions of 110 axles would not be an issue as they are equivalent parts, even going from an early drum brakes Salisbury to a a late 4-pin Rover type. You can uprate diffs, shafts and brakes with no issues - the rule seems more concerned with the axle case than its innards. Reinforced diff pans are, again, service replacement. Suspension - you can replace damaged or worn parts, you just need to keep the original system and dimensions. So, lifted coilers with cranked or drilled radius arms are a mod, but replacing with standard parts, including changing spring rates, is just service replacement. The DVLA permit the use of parabolic springs on leafers as a direct service replacement rather than mod as they are dimensionally the same, needing no alteration to fit, despite usually altering ride height. All of the above seems to be a judicious application of common sense. The rules are not there to stop us maintaining our vehicles or improving older modles, they are there to stop blatent deception by ringing. The real grey areas are entered by those looking to create them because they know they are bending or breaking the rules.

Check the coloured wires at the motor have voltage with the ignition on - if not, you have a supply fault (fuse, switch or wiring), and check the motor's earth wire is attached to a suitable earth point (clean and rust free, greased on assembly). The heater matrix benefits hugely from being flushed. I emptied mine out and then left a caustic soda solution in it for 15 minutes before prolonged flushing (caustic soda won't do much for your water pump or hoses). The steel pipes along the head and the control valve also block up with scale and rust, so cleaning or replacing them will be of benefit. You could use 13mm copper pipe from a plumbers shop (with olives soldered or compressed on for the hoses to grip) and plumbing pipe lagging will help keep the water in the pipes hotter until it reaches the heater matrix.

Ah, got your drift now. The jubilee clip is a good idea.

The tubes are an interference fit with large puddle welds. I think the case is cast steel.

Having had a good nose about a Tesla shop in the US last month, I was very impressed. I think the recharge times vs range will be viable within a few years, and it's already good enough that I'd buy one now if I had the cash.

Really? Seems pretty clear to me.

I used a LaSallle head lining in my 109. I prevented drumming and vibration and condensation and improved insulation by glueing camping roll mat to the roof panel first. It works very well.

You could just tighten the clamp screw...

Yes, but the Tdi doesn't do the job to the same specification as the 12J, whereas as an HD steering rod does, and the Tdi does need a fair bit of vehicle modification to fit. I get where you're coming from, though. It's a bit grey, and I agree that a jobsworth inspector could cause complications if they so chose and noticed the small differences in those basic parts.

I agree entirely. They are not zero emission unless the electricity is generated by solar, wind or nuclear. But they do help improve city air by removing local emissions and the efficiencies of scale of large scale power generators may be less polluting than IC engines. That has health benefits for the bulk of the population, which is the point that the media are leaping on in recent articles, rather than the global warming debate. Certainly hybrid vehicles are a marketing con and should never have been permitted - a car needs to be one or the other to be efficient, not sitting on the fence.

Again, start and drive. The biggest issue, especially with a dead heater, is going to be demisting the windows. You need to fix that heater, probably just SIII as fitting the Defender type is a bit of a faff (worth while, but rarely done, and the SIII unit can be modified to work just as well). Heated screens are a very big safety as well as practical benefit. I also rate heated wing mirrors highly. Being a bit soft, I also fitted seat heaters and a Kenlowe Hotstart to mine. The heaters get used a lot in the winter, but the Hotstart is not that useful and not worth the money unless you find a cheap second hand one.

Interesting. I wonder what the toque and effective BHP of those motors is. There would be plenty of space to fit batteries in the chassis spaces under the tub and in the empty engine and transmission spaces (especially with the prop shafts and exhaust gone), protecting them from impacts, so you'd be able to keep a respectable range for European/US use where recharging points would be available.

Have you tried driving with an HRTC (or with overdrive left engaged in all gears)? It's not a nice drive, overgeared for pulling away in 1st and needs 3rd instead of a lazy 4th at 30mph (with more wear on the box and its oil and less fuel efficiency). It's a much better alternative than 3.54 diffs, since it doesn't affect low range or speedo accuracy, but it is not as good as having a decent overdrive. It also puts a lot of stress on the lower gears of the main box, so any higher performance engine will kill the box much quicker than standard ratios. You're better off with overdrive or an LT77.

They are detail differences, not fundamental, and are interchangeable, so would almost certainly qualify as suitable service replacements rather than an alteration.

Disco and Defender steering is identical except for the upper column, which you wouldn't swap, and the track rod, which is a service replacement part and wouldn't be an issue (nor would the HD versions) as they're not fundamentally different to the original. The points are comprised as follows: Chassis (original and unaltered, repairs allowed, or brand new to same spec): 5 Axles (original, both together): 2 (both lost if either axle is replaced) Steering: 2 Suspension: 2 Transmission: 2 Engine: 1 You need to score 8 or more. Note, there are no points for the body, so all these Defenders with SII vins are ringers.

The hydraulic type would preclude the use of overdrive, so I wouldn't use that. For aesthetics, I'd go for the capstan - they just look old fashioned. For practical use, I'd have the crank shaft driven drum winch.

Yep, that is a problem for me with the transmission change I'd like to do (like yours, but with the BW transfer box) - I have 9 points now, so can't lose two more for the transmission, having already lost the points for the engine, axles and steering.